Nauticus 27 runs all over the show..

[konstantine]

Hey there, I'm new to Canal World but it certainly seems the place to be! Basically I'm in a pickle with a GRP Nauticus 27 with the Z drive/1100 Watermota power unit.

 

When driving on a clear, open section of canal, operating the boat is nothing short of stressful. She will bounce left, right, left, right and all the while the helmsman can do little more than counteract this at the wheel, in turn the entire journey is spent corrective steering and if I'm to look away for a second, she's heading for the towpath. On the contrary, a few friends and I took her out last week whilst in a rather cold spell! - A complete sheet of ice had covered the waterway. The 1/4" of ice however was enough to keep the boat in a straight line and stable for the entire 8 mile journey and for the first time in years, it was actually a pleasure to navigate the boat.

 

My question is this. Why on earth does the boat handle like a shopping trolley? I have heard conflicting rumours about where to ballast the boat to try and aid this but I'd like to know a little bit more about it. I've put some old concrete blocks under the hull at the front of the boat and it seems to make little to no difference, but with friends sat at the front it's certainly easier to drive.

 

Is the answer to place more ballast in the hull? Or could it be alignment issues in the drive unit?..

 

Help, please!

[Naughty Cal]

Hey there, I'm new to Canal World but it certainly seems the place to be! Basically I'm in a pickle with a GRP Nauticus 27 with the Z drive/1100 Watermota power unit.

 

When driving on a clear, open section of canal, operating the boat is nothing short of stressful. She will bounce left, right, left, right and all the while the helmsman can do little more than counteract this at the wheel, in turn the entire journey is spent corrective steering and if I'm to look away for a second, she's heading for the towpath. On the contrary, a few friends and I took her out last week whilst in a rather cold spell! - A complete sheet of ice had covered the waterway. The 1/4" of ice however was enough to keep the boat in a straight line and stable for the entire 8 mile journey and for the first time in years, it was actually a pleasure to navigate the boat.

 

My question is this. Why on earth does the boat handle like a shopping trolley? I have heard conflicting rumours about where to ballast the boat to try and aid this but I'd like to know a little bit more about it. I've put some old concrete blocks under the hull at the front of the boat and it seems to make little to no difference, but with friends sat at the front it's certainly easier to drive.

 

Is the answer to place more ballast in the hull? Or could it be alignment issues in the drive unit?..

 

Help, please!

 

Outdrives are twitchy with the steering at slow speeds. You just have to compensate and try and second guess its next move. We had a similar problem when we bought our Sealine but have got the hang of it now. It does unfortunately mean a lot of steering. Take a look at any boat on the move with outdrives and 9 times out of 10 they will take a wander along the river/canal rather than steering a straight course.

[David Schweizer]

Hey there, I'm new to Canal World but it certainly seems the place to be! Basically I'm in a pickle with a GRP Nauticus 27 with the Z drive/1100 Watermota power unit.

 

When driving on a clear, open section of canal, operating the boat is nothing short of stressful. She will bounce left, right, left, right and all the while the helmsman can do little more than counteract this at the wheel, in turn the entire journey is spent corrective steering and if I'm to look away for a second, she's heading for the towpath. On the contrary, a few friends and I took her out last week whilst in a rather cold spell! - A complete sheet of ice had covered the waterway. The 1/4" of ice however was enough to keep the boat in a straight line and stable for the entire 8 mile journey and for the first time in years, it was actually a pleasure to navigate the boat.

My question is this. Why on earth does the boat handle like a shopping trolley? I have heard conflicting rumours about where to ballast the boat to try and aid this but I'd like to know a little bit more about it. I've put some old concrete blocks under the hull at the front of the boat and it seems to make little to no difference, but with friends sat at the front it's certainly easier to drive.

 

Is the answer to place more ballast in the hull? Or could it be alignment issues in the drive unit?..

 

Help, please!

I may of course be completely wrong (no change there), but is it a good idea to take a GRP boat out when the canal is frozen over? I know that some GRP hulls are stronger than others, but GRP cannot possibly have the same abrasion resistance as mild steel, and I would have thiought that persistant cutting through Ice could cause serious damage to the hull.

 

I only say this because back in the late 1960's, I witnessed a GRP boat being sliced in half by ice sheets pushed against her hull by a passing Working boat. The GRP sank in about ten seconds, it was quiter spectacular, even if somewhat distressing for the owner, who was fortunately not on the boat at the time.

[Naughty Cal]

I may of course be completely wrong (no change there), but is it a good idea to take a GRP boat out when the canal is frozen over? I know that some GRP hulls are stronger than others, but GRP cannot possibly have the same abrasion resistance as mild steel, and I would have thiought that persistant cutting through Ice could cause serious damage to the hull.

 

I only say this because back in the late 1960's, I witnessed a GRP boat being sliced in half by ice sheets pushed against her hull by a passing Working boat. The GRP sank in about ten seconds, it was quiter spectacular, even if somewhat distressing for the owner, who was fortunately not on the boat at the time.

 

You are very right on that matter. It is very bad practice to force a GRP hull through ice. Not only will you shread your own hull but that of any other GRP boat in the vicinity as you push ice against their hull.

[saltysplash]

Hey there, I'm new to Canal World but it certainly seems the place to be! Basically I'm in a pickle with a GRP Nauticus 27 with the Z drive/1100 Watermota power unit.

 

When driving on a clear, open section of canal, operating the boat is nothing short of stressful. She will bounce left, right, left, right and all the while the helmsman can do little more than counteract this at the wheel, in turn the entire journey is spent corrective steering and if I'm to look away for a second, she's heading for the towpath. On the contrary, a few friends and I took her out last week whilst in a rather cold spell! - A complete sheet of ice had covered the waterway. The 1/4" of ice however was enough to keep the boat in a straight line and stable for the entire 8 mile journey and for the first time in years, it was actually a pleasure to navigate the boat.

 

My question is this. Why on earth does the boat handle like a shopping trolley? I have heard conflicting rumours about where to ballast the boat to try and aid this but I'd like to know a little bit more about it. I've put some old concrete blocks under the hull at the front of the boat and it seems to make little to no difference, but with friends sat at the front it's certainly easier to drive.

 

Is the answer to place more ballast in the hull? Or could it be alignment issues in the drive unit?..

 

Help, please!

 

 

 

Is there some form of rudder plate available that can be clamped to the Zdrive, I remember my father having one that was clamped to his honda outboard which allegedly gave better handling/steering

[carlt]

Is there some form of rudder plate available that can be clamped to the Zdrive, I remember my father having one that was clamped to his honda outboard which allegedly gave better handling/steering

Yes there is.

 

Give Bob Knowles a ring:

 

bobknowles

[saltysplash]

Yes there is.

 

Give Bob Knowles a ring:

 

bobknowles

 

 

Knew i hadnt dreamt it

 

Probably the best thing for the OP to try out

[carlt]

Knew i hadnt dreamt it

 

Probably the best thing for the OP to try out

it certainly worked, when I added one (home made) to a Honda 15.

[konstantine]

it certainly worked, when I added one (home made) to a Honda 15.

 

Thanks for the replys! The ice was very thin and the hull is spotless afterwards so no worries on that avenue. Gel-coat is unscathed and we didn't pass any other boats owing to our mooring and where we were heading.

 

I have fitted a Bob Knowles aluminium extension piece onto the Z Drive last time it was serviced to no major avail - the boat responds infinitely better when under throttle which is obviously because it steers hydro-dynamically but otherwise at slow speeds, it is just uncontrollable - which is what is making me think it could be a ballast problem?

 

I suspect there is no cure, it's simply down to the type of hull and the type of drive, but can I help her along the way?..

Edited December 17, 2008 by konstantine

[carlt]

Thanks for the replys! The ice was very thin and the hull is spotless afterwards so no worries on that avenue. Gel-coat is unscathed and we didn't pass any other boats owing to our mooring and where we were heading.

 

I have fitted a Bob Knowles aluminium extension piece onto the Z Drive last time it was serviced to no major avail - the boat responds infinitely better when under throttle which is obviously because it steers hydro-dynamically but otherwise at slow speeds, it is just uncontrollable - which is what is making me think it could be a ballast problem?

 

I suspect there is no cure, it's simply down to the type of hull and the type of drive, but can I help her along the way?..

It sounds like the leg is too short or fixed too high, on the transom.

[Naughty Cal]

Thanks for the replys! The ice was very thin and the hull is spotless afterwards so no worries on that avenue. Gel-coat is unscathed and we didn't pass any other boats owing to our mooring and where we were heading.

 

I have fitted a Bob Knowles aluminium extension piece onto the Z Drive last time it was serviced to no major avail - the boat responds infinitely better when under throttle which is obviously because it steers hydro-dynamically but otherwise at slow speeds, it is just uncontrollable - which is what is making me think it could be a ballast problem?

 

I suspect there is no cure, it's simply down to the type of hull and the type of drive, but can I help her along the way?..

 

Like i said above ours is the same and every other stern driven boat we have encountered pretty much is too. Try adjusting the trim see if it makes any difference. Otherwise keep steering!

[fuzzyduck]

Try adding 1/2 a ton of ballast at the bows.

[Tony Brooks]

Try adding 1/2 a ton of ballast at the bows.

 

Funny you should say that, I was about to suggest ballasting the stern down. However I know to optimum fore-aft trim varies from design to design so in may be worth getting a few bags of sand/ballast from B&Q and try various fore-aft trims to see if it can be improved.

 

I have no idea about any keel the boat may (or may not) have, but fitting a long wooden keel gradually tapering from nothing towards the front to perhaps 4 or 6 inches at the stern may help. Unfortunately this probably means drilling right through the hull, screwing or bolting the keel on, and then glassing over the bolt/screw heads. Bit expensive though.

[macc]

mybe prop size is to big how fast is the prop going round at cruising speed is the engine only in idle speed if so smaller prop may help

[Yoda]

Hey there, I'm new to Canal World but it certainly seems the place to be! Basically I'm in a pickle with a GRP Nauticus 27 with the Z drive/1100 Watermota power unit.

 

When driving on a clear, open section of canal, operating the boat is nothing short of stressful. She will bounce left, right, left, right and all the while the helmsman can do little more than counteract this at the wheel, in turn the entire journey is spent corrective steering and if I'm to look away for a second, she's heading for the towpath. On the contrary, a few friends and I took her out last week whilst in a rather cold spell! - A complete sheet of ice had covered the waterway. The 1/4" of ice however was enough to keep the boat in a straight line and stable for the entire 8 mile journey and for the first time in years, it was actually a pleasure to navigate the boat.

 

My question is this. Why on earth does the boat handle like a shopping trolley? I have heard conflicting rumours about where to ballast the boat to try and aid this but I'd like to know a little bit more about it. I've put some old concrete blocks under the hull at the front of the boat and it seems to make little to no difference, but with friends sat at the front it's certainly easier to drive.

 

Is the answer to place more ballast in the hull? Or could it be alignment issues in the drive unit?..

 

Help, please!

 

 

Oh dear, Buy a Viking instead!! Seriously, the problem is the hull flat bottom. I was once using a flat bottom boat in the Atlantic Ocean and that was all over the place, it was actually a glass bottomed boat used for diving. The only real cure for this is to fit a centre board in front of the half way point. You could also build a chine to the centre of the boat running fore and aft.

[dccruiser]

Oh dear, Buy a Viking instead!! Seriously, the problem is the hull flat bottom. I was once using a flat bottom boat in the Atlantic Ocean and that was all over the place, it was actually a glass bottomed boat used for diving. The only real cure for this is to fit a centre board in front of the half way point. You could also build a chine to the centre of the boat running fore and aft.

 

I have the same boat and it has a shallow v bottom as it was made as a river boat , the original sales bumf describing it as the rolls royce of the river ....

 

As for the ballasting , one solution is to scrap the rear water tank, use the space for a further fuel tank and fit a new water tank in the bows ( they are naturally very stern heavy ) , as for a rudder extension it is better to make your own , then you can get it right through trial and error, i have found the optimum shape to be longer rather than deeper.

Rick

 

 

 

I have the same boat and it has a shallow v bottom as it was made as a river boat , the original sales bumf describing it as the rolls royce of the river ....

 

As for the ballasting , one solution is to scrap the rear water tank, use the space for a further fuel tank and fit a new water tank in the bows ( they are naturally very stern heavy ) , as for a rudder extension it is better to make your own , then you can get it right through trial and error, i have found the optimum shape to be longer rather than deeper.

Rick

[Naughty Cal]

Oh dear, Buy a Viking instead!! Seriously, the problem is the hull flat bottom. I was once using a flat bottom boat in the Atlantic Ocean and that was all over the place, it was actually a glass bottomed boat used for diving. The only real cure for this is to fit a centre board in front of the half way point. You could also build a chine to the centre of the boat running fore and aft.

 

Please dont buy a Viking.

 

We looked into buying a new one and the build quality is crap to put it politely.

[dccruiser]

Please dont buy a Viking.

 

We looked into buying a new one and the build quality is crap to put it politely.

 

couldnt agree more, always fancied a viking 26 until i spent some time on a mates, the nauticus is far more solidly built and stable in the water, the only downside is the size of the washroom.... but if the wardrobe is sacrificed this is easily overcome.

[Liam]

My parents first boat they bought was a 27ft Nauticus... even though this particular boat wasn't in the best of conditions internally, externally it was sound.

 

The first trip we did was a short 2 hour run to a festival... I was on the wheel for most of the way and it literally was going all over the place. When we had the boat lifted out for painting/cleaning etc the Z drive was overhauled and an extended bolt-on rudder was fixed to the outdrive... we also put a few old 56lb mud anchors under the bed in the cupboards at the front of the boat.

 

When it was put back in the water it sat much straighter and I personally think it looked much better too. From that point on, driving the boat was a doddle and you only had to correct yourself in a gust of wind or to follow the bends.

 

The only other thing I could think of is that if your steering is loose somehow. If you wiggle the wheel, does this also move the Z drive instantly or is there a delay imbetween moving both? It could be that it's loose so you have to turn the wheel more than you would have to, to get the drive to move.

[Naughty Cal]

I think outdrives are just more twitchy than shaft driven boats. It makes sense if you think about how the thing operates. Much as an outboard driven vessel has a tendancy to oversteer until the operator has grasped the handling.

[John T]

Hey there, I'm new to Canal World but it certainly seems the place to be! Basically I'm in a pickle with a GRP Nauticus 27 with the Z drive/1100 Watermota power unit.

 

When driving on a clear, open section of canal, operating the boat is nothing short of stressful. She will bounce left, right, left, right and all the while the helmsman can do little more than counteract this at the wheel, in turn the entire journey is spent corrective steering and if I'm to look away for a second, she's heading for the towpath. On the contrary, a few friends and I took her out last week whilst in a rather cold spell! - A complete sheet of ice had covered the waterway. The 1/4" of ice however was enough to keep the boat in a straight line and stable for the entire 8 mile journey and for the first time in years, it was actually a pleasure to navigate the boat.

 

My question is this. Why on earth does the boat handle like a shopping trolley? I have heard conflicting rumours about where to ballast the boat to try and aid this but I'd like to know a little bit more about it. I've put some old concrete blocks under the hull at the front of the boat and it seems to make little to no difference, but with friends sat at the front it's certainly easier to drive.

 

Is the answer to place more ballast in the hull? Or could it be alignment issues in the drive unit?..

 

Help, please!

 

I'm a little surprised about this problem and surprised by many of the replies.

I had a Nauticus 27 GRP Z drive/1100 Watermota for 4 years and never experienced this problem at all. She ran straight and true with amazing ease. She did not have any balast at the bow or stern. They are very good sturdy boats.

 

Do you think a previous owner could have changed the original wheel/helm mechanism? Is the gearing on the helm incorrect so it is ultra-sensitive in some way. Perhaps you could ask another Nauticus owner if you could have a steer of their boat for 10 mins and see if their boat runs true. The Nauticus certainly has a V ish shaped hull and also a sizeable keel the full length of the boat.

[Jason Wilson and Family]

I think you may have mentioned the problem already. You said it steers straighter with a friend in the bow? Pushing the bow in, either using ballast or trim tabs will make it act more like a displacement boat and will make it less touchy.

 

If the boat has an outboard or I/O drive unit, check your trim. It may be that your trimmed to an angle meant to help the boat plane which would lift the bow. When that happens you're just bouncing around in and falling off of step.

 

(Disclaimer I'm new to this so I could be confusing something)

Edited January 28, 2009 by Jason Wilson and Family

[nauticus]

Hi there re steering if you log on to the nauticus cruiser site you will be in touch with 70 nauticus owners to sort all your problems. good luck Ron

[Liam]

Hi Ron,

 

It its the same Maestro, I used to know the boat when it was on our moorings on the Bridgewater Canal. The owner sold it to upgrade to a 48ft Narrowboat, but now is back with a Nauticus!

[Amicus]

I'm with Mr Brooks on this, fit a long hardwood false keel. Better yet, if you can manage it, a length of railway line just kidding (ish)

I take it you have checked the steering linkage for slop, checked the motor height on the transom, anti-aeration plate not above the boat bottom. Is the motor trim angle sommick sensible i.e. vertical when underway?

Failing all else, fit an auto-pilot, steer with a little knob on the remote