Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

dccruiser

Patron Donate to Canal World
  • Content Count

    1034
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

dccruiser last won the day on May 8

dccruiser had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

237 Good

4 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Boat fanatic!
  • Boat Name
    Nautianne
  • Boat Location
    Shardlow

Recent Profile Visitors

6031 profile views
  1. I always take a link out of one if the side chains when i fit a bow fender and substitute it with a tie wrap , that way should the worse happen the tie wrap will break and the fender will roll over the bow , rather than the boat hanging .... I have done this to in excess of 30 boats and have so far had 2 reports back of it saving someones pride and joy. Rick
  2. Could always just drill and tap it Rick
  3. I used a hammer and block of wood to fit mine, once in it has no movement whatsoever Rick
  4. Apparently not and worse still no money had changed hands
  5. The boat was apparently on sale on ebay for 12k and the seller had let the potential buyer take it for a test run , so its a very expensive mistake! Rick
  6. thanks for that ... either way its closed! Rick
  7. I would follow the 2 wires in your first pic, i think you will find they go onto spade connectors at the back of the fridge where the other wires are connected , if so i would pull them off there and just put spade connectors on your "new" wires and connect in the same way they were connected , rather than having an unnecessary join a foot along the wires. Rick
  8. Until a couple of months ago they were 96 quid at midland swindlers, guess they dropped the price as they didnt sell too many ... I know this as i wanted one, thankfully I bought one someone had never go around to fitting for 20 quid. Rick
  9. Agree with the above, i fill until i get a fountain coming out the bolt hole in the skin tank then replace the bolt then carry on filling until the header tank is full ... on mine i also have a bleed for the calorifier circuit, on some engines there is also a bleed on the side of the engine block towards the top. Rick
  10. surely easier to knock off the mcb/s on your mains, then nothing can be connected Rick
  11. These are pretty good for instrument panels ... although personally i am making a new external engine panel from a piece of perspex so i can add temp and oil pressure guages where i can see them when cruising. http://www.dragonmarinesystems.co.uk/instrument-panels.html I have one of these as my AC/DC distribution panel, superb bit of kit as you can specify all the fuse rating for your circuits. https://www.axoncontrol.co.uk/panels/ac-and-dc-components/14-Way-AC-DC-Switchable-Carling-tech-circuit-breaker-panel-with-meters-RCD Rick
  12. I used this which works in the same way and having used it on a porous skin tank can highly recommend it as i know for a fact it does the job! Rick
  13. I would have used the evo stick metal putty, i also tried the liquid metal and found the water once it got warm just pushed out from behind it Rick
  14. As i said previously having tried plastic padding leak repair etc. I sealed mine with evo stick metal putty and that held all the way down the S&W from Tixall wide and had to be ground off before a permanent welded repair could be made .... If you need to get anywhere to pick anything up I am only down the road in Willington and will happily drive over. Rick
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.