Bitumen, Comastic or Intertuf?

[BlueStringPudding]

Just been given quotes for the above blackings on the boat. We currently have bitumen and don't want to have it scraped back to bare metal to reblack.

 

What's good and bad about the above blackings?

 

Any advice, y'all?

[Gary Peacock]

Just been given quotes for the above blackings on the boat. We currently have bitumen and don't want to have it scraped back to bare metal to reblack.

 

What's good and bad about the above blackings?

 

Any advice, y'all?

 

 

Well we use bitumen or Comastic commonly, we had a very bad run along with others with Intertuf 16 after being convinced by the sales pitch to use it but when it started to fall off on several boats they tried equally hard to preach the gospel of "it's an application problem".

 

I would stick with bitumen personally cheap, safe and provided you don't encounter a diesel spill fairly long lasting.

[BlueStringPudding]

Well we use bitumen or Comastic commonly, we had a very bad run along with others with Intertuf 16 after being convinced by the sales pitch to use it but when it started to fall off on several boats they tried equally hard to preach the gospel of "it's an application problem".

 

I would stick with bitumen personally cheap, safe and provided you don't encounter a diesel spill fairly long lasting.

 

There's loadsa diesel floating round our way...

[carlt]

Slap the bitch on!

 

It's cheap and compatible with the blacking already there.

[blackrose]

There's loadsa diesel floating round our way...

 

That's the problem - it's almost impossible to avoid. Rylards Premium is supposed to have a degree of resistance to diesel but it doesn't go on as thick as the ordinary Rylards Rytex, so a couple of coats of Rytex followed by Premium might be the way...

Edited July 5, 2008 by blackrose

[Guest]

That's the problem - it's almost impossible to avoid. Rylards Premium is supposed to have a degree of resistance to diesel but it doesn't go on as thick as the ordinary Rylards Rytex, so a couple of coats of Rytex followed by Premium might be the way...

I always use Rytex and redo it every two years, after which most of it is still intact. Intresting about putting Premium over it. Does that mean that Rytex is less resistant to diesel etc, than Premium, or is that a cheaper way of doing it? I usually stick on three coats of Rytex. My good mate uses stuff from B&Q to good effect which costs around 11 quid for 5 litres (Aquaseal I think).

[Timleech]

That's the problem - it's almost impossible to avoid. Rylards Premium is supposed to have a degree of resistance to diesel but it doesn't go on as thick as the ordinary Rylards Rytex, so a couple of coats of Rytex followed by Premium might be the way...

 

Rytex isn't 'ordinary' bitumen, it's a 'bodied' paint designed to build up a thicker layer than ordinary bitumen. It's also substantially dearer per litre than Premium, so per square metre covered is a lot more expensive.

We routinely paint with a 'sandwich' of 3 coats - Premium, Rytex and Premium, it seems to give a fairly durable result and the Premium gives a blacker, shinier finish along with the alleged diesel resistance to give the feelgood factor for the customer

It also, being 'thinner', gives more certain coverage for the bottom of any pits as a first coat.

I started doing this several years ago, others seem to have cottoned on since then.

 

 

Edited to add that, in answer to the original question, Comastic is a different sort of product and not compatible with previous Bitumen-based coatings. It will last a bit longer than bitumen if all other circumstances are equal.

 

Tim

Edited July 5, 2008 by Timleech

[Greybeard]

There's a forum member who reblacks boats.

 

He did mine a couple of months ago for a VERY sensible price.

 

It's not been on long and still looks ok.

 

Check out Kingfisher (John 01159 727936)

 

He has dry dock facilities but he is at Trent Lock so I don't know if that's any good to you as I don't know where you are.

 

I have checked with a moderator that I'm allowed to pass on the above info who told me to make sure that everyone knows that I am not employed by, related to or sleeping with any member of Kingfishers team!

[blackrose]

Rytex isn't 'ordinary' bitumen, it's a 'bodied' paint designed to build up a thicker layer than ordinary bitumen. It's also substantially dearer per litre than Premium, so per square metre covered is a lot more expensive.

We routinely paint with a 'sandwich' of 3 coats - Premium, Rytex and Premium, it seems to give a fairly durable result and the Premium gives a blacker, shinier finish along with the alleged diesel resistance to give the feelgood factor for the customer

It also, being 'thinner', gives more certain coverage for the bottom of any pits as a first coat.

I started doing this several years ago, others seem to have cottoned on since then.

 

Tim

 

Why do you use Premium as the first coat Tim?

 

Mike

[Timleech]

Why do you use Premium as the first coat Tim?

 

Mike

 

Because it's easier to apply to a rough, pitted surface than is Rytex, and a more certain way to get any pitting fully coated. Putting Rytex on is a doddle as a second coat.

 

Tim

[blackrose]

Because it's easier to apply to a rough, pitted surface than is Rytex, and a more certain way to get any pitting fully coated. Putting Rytex on is a doddle as a second coat.

 

Tim

 

Ah, I see. Thanks, I'll do that next time.

[GeoffS]

I would stick with bitumen personally cheap, safe and provided you don't encounter a diesel spill fairly long lasting.

 

I am worried now! This is the first time I have read about the fact that diesel can have a detrimental effect on hull blacking. I encountered a massive diesel spill some weeks ago near Northampton. Is there some action I should now take to check the hull?

[Smelly]

I'd agree with Gary about intertuf, 14 months after putting it in and there's none left below the waterline, and I mean NONE

Edited July 8, 2008 by Smelly

[stuart]

I'd agree with Gary about intertuf, 14 months after putting it in and there's none left below the waterline, and I mean NONE

 

Just saves you having to scrape the stuff off !!

[tomandsophie]

Now this has made me think twice. We're taking Tarifa out of the water next month, and I was going to use Intertuf as that is what's on there at the moment. Maybe I'd be better off with something else. Does regular bitumen go on over existing Intertuf blacking?

[kingfisher]

Now this has made me think twice. We're taking Tarifa out of the water next month, and I was going to use Intertuf as that is what's on there at the moment. Maybe I'd be better off with something else. Does regular bitumen go on over existing Intertuf blacking?

yes you can apply regular bitumen over intertuff,try using sealex b or rytex about £20 a tin i think ,sealex b130 dries to a satin finish as opposed to a matt on bitumen paint

 

greybeard for the reference ,a nice suprise when i logged on

[onthecut]

Just been given quotes for the above blackings on the boat. We currently have bitumen and don't want to have it scraped back to bare metal to reblack.

 

What's good and bad about the above blackings?

 

Any advice, y'all?

 

Firmly in the bitumen camp, especially if you don't have huge gaps inbetween blacking. We're slowly getting to the point with ours where a modest scrape only takes it down to a previous layer of bitumen. We always maximise the thickness around the waterline, so odd doses of diesel in the water won't take it all off. Cost wise, this time we had five gallons (ish) from Caggys for £75. Lets you put a number of coats on, with some over for touch up.

 

Mike.

[Ex- Member]

I think the sealex b130 is the best stuff for the money. I've been quoted £72.22 per 20 litre can delivered. We're going to apply 3 coats of bitumen, then a coulpe of extra coats 6" either side of the water line. We put an additional 2 coats on the boat from new on top of the boatbuilders 2 coats, the boat came out the water 18 months later, and only the odd patch of rust along bits of the water line, right the way down to the bottom of the chines were perfectly ok. I was even thinking of a couple of coats of Waxoyl 6" either side of the water line, as it seems to have pretty good resistance to oils where bitumen seems to suffer.

[Robbo]

Firmly in the bitumen camp, especially if you don't have huge gaps inbetween blacking. We're slowly getting to the point with ours where a modest scrape only takes it down to a previous layer of bitumen. We always maximise the thickness around the waterline, so odd doses of diesel in the water won't take it all off. Cost wise, this time we had five gallons (ish) from Caggys for £75. Lets you put a number of coats on, with some over for touch up.

 

Mike.

 

Caggys?

[carlt]

Caggys?

Caggy's Yard, Tipton.

[Robbo]

Caggy's Yard, Tipton.

 

Cheers found em.

[gaggle]

anyone know whereabouts in near liverpool that stocks the bitumen paint for hull blacking.

[Timleech]

anyone know whereabouts in near liverpool that stocks the bitumen paint for hull blacking.

 

I'm not sure whether Mainline keep retail stocks

 

0151 920 6451

 

Sefton Rd L21

 

If not, I'm sure they will tell you who they supply in the area.

 

Tim

[Iron-Dutchess]

Hi,

 

Our hull is painted with Leigh's Epigrip L524 Epoxy http://the-iron-dutchess.com/iron-dutchess/TL524.pdf

 

It's been on for over 4 years now with no sign of rust at the water line, just the odd scrape above the water, none of which has gone through.

 

It's very tough against abrasion and can be applied with a roller or airless spraying.

 

I think they use it on oil platforms.

 

Chris

[8 Ball]

I had a new boat and it had INTERTUFF applied......Less than a year and there was signs of rust. Two years and it looked like a bright red "go faster" stripe down the entire length of the boat on the waterline !

 

Took it out of water and took it back to bare steel, panal wiped it to perfect clean and applied two coats of Comastic. 18 months later......looks as good as new, not a spot of flaking or rust.

 

Enuff said ! :-)