Jump to content

WHEN to slow down ? ? ?


Pete of Ebor

Featured Posts

Impossible to give a hard and fast rule....

 

It depends on the boat, the depth and width of the canal, etc.

 

Dare I say it, also to some extent on how well tied up the boat(s) in question appear to be.

 

Incoming!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just make sure I'm doing no more than 1000rpm when passing moored boats. That's fairly slow for me because it's a 55hp engine pushing a 32 tonne barge.

 

Edit: and I'd do that no matter how long the length of moorings.

Edited by blackrose
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Normally 2-3 boat lengths, gives time for the boat speed to drop to a reasonable pace for passing moored craft, however if its windy it may be a little earlier just to see how the boat will settle on the wind with the new throttle setting, this is on the shallow shelved canals i frequent'

 

As others have said on the other post, alot depends on water depth and general navigation conditions.

 

I always give working boats a wide berth cos i've heard they know a lot more swear words than most :lol:

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We find that most people only throttle back once their bow is at 90 degrees to our bow/stern. Then they wear a smug look as if they've done you a favour :lol: . Our boat's already been dragged forward by then so you just brace yourself for the jolt and the drag back again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Our boat's already been dragged forward by then so you just brace yourself for the jolt and the drag back again.

I do take the point that sometimes soft ground means that stakes however well driven in, can get pulled out.

 

But assuming you are not in that situation no really well tied up boat should be capable of being dragged backwards and forwards by any distance. A boat tied along these lines....

 

IMG_1173.jpg

 

cannot move forward or backwards, because of the triangle shape made by the ropes. Whichever way it tries to go, a rope is restraining it.

 

As was said in the other thread, it will not stop you being bounced up and down, but there really is no need to be shuffling to and fro.

 

Alan

Edited by alan_fincher
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just make sure I'm doing no more than 1000rpm when passing moored boats. That's fairly slow for me because it's a 55hp engine pushing a 32 tonne barge.

 

1000rpm Luxury

Normal GU cruising is about that, moored boats about tickover 720rpm, and even then I got yelled at last time out.

One boat amongst 4 others , only one complained and he ran 200 yards brandising his club hammer to yell at me that I had pulled his pins............ :lol:

 

Julian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do take the point that sometimes soft ground means that stakes however well driven in, can get pulled out.

 

But assuming you are not in that situation no really well tied up boat should be capable of being dragged backwards and forwards by any distance. A boat tied along these lines....

 

IMG_1173.jpg

 

cannot move forward or backwards, because of the triangle shape made by the ropes. Whichever way it tries to go, a rope is restraining it.

 

As was said in the other thread, it will not stop you being bounced up and down, but there really is no need to be shuffling to and fro.

 

Alan

 

We were tied up like that near Wolfhamcote on Sunday morning. As the modern boats went past we barely creaked (apart from with one passing psychopath who thought he owned a big shiny speedboat). When the heavy working boats went past we were dragged and jolted.

 

Surely if there's an up-and-down motion, that creates slack and tension on the ropes anyway?

 

 

 

1000rpm Luxury

Normal GU cruising is about that, moored boats about tickover 720rpm, and even then I got yelled at last time out.

One boat amongst 4 others , only one complained and he ran 200 yards brandising his club hammer to yell at me that I had pulled his pins............ :lol:

 

Julian

 

But did you drop to tickover once you'd actually or nearly reached his boat, or a few boatlengths beforehand? :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Surely if there's an up-and-down motion, that creates slack and tension on the ropes anyway?

Yes indeed!

 

If they are going fast enough to move you up and down, it must change the tension in the ropes. However, if the ropes are long enough, not by very much though, if you consider the maths.

 

Come and try it down our way on your next major trip out. I don't know if it's just that our water is generally deeper, but I've seldom experienced much problem from speed merchants, if tied up well.

 

Not that I can remember any serious problems on narrower, shallower waters - Northern Oxford, Coventry, Birmingham & Fazeley, Stratford, etc.....

 

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just make sure I'm doing no more than 1000rpm when passing moored boats. That's fairly slow for me because it's a 55hp engine pushing a 32 tonne barge.

 

Edit: and I'd do that no matter how long the length of moorings.

 

Yup, but that doesn't actually address the issue.

 

The revs as you pass isn't actually the most important factor. Taking the revs off sufficiently far away, and smoothly is.

 

We cruise at 1100-1200 revs, and tickover at 850.

 

General plan is drop to 1000 revs at 200 ft, 900 at 100ft, and tickover at 50ft.

 

Having passed, 900 immediately after passing last boat, 1000 at 50ft, and full cruising revs at 150ft

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So how the hell am I expected to pass a moored boat if I don't have a tachometer ?

 

Or am I acting irresponsibly by not having one ? :lol:

 

I'm sorry - this just can't be right.

 

There cannot possibly be a "one size fits all" formula that works every time. Each situation is different and needs the correct judgement, (which must be more than looking at "RPM" readings, surely ?....)

Edited by alan_fincher
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I worked out how long it took my boat to slow down, and then tended to pull the revs off in time to pass moored boats slowly. In practice it is probably a couple of boat lengths worth. I always slow down - I sometimes get shouted at for not going slow enough, but I always persume they just want to shout and reality will not change that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So how the hell am I expected to pass a moored boat if I don't have a tachometer ?

 

Or am I acting irresponsibly by not having one ? :lol:

 

I'm sorry - this just can't be right.

 

There cannot possibly be a "one size fits all" formula that works every time. Each situation is different and needs the correct judgement, (which must be more than looking at "RPM" readings, surely ?....)

 

Quite.

 

I quoted RPM to give an idea of the engine speed curve.

 

Basically, cut from cruising revs to tickover smoothly between 200 and 50 ft, and increase smoothly over 150 ft after passing is a rule of thumb which gives the desired effect of not disturbing other boats.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't comment on other people's boats but on the good boat Surprise when I'm in charge :lol: the rule is slow down when you see them and lift your speed when you can't.

 

Works well for me but then I'm probably the slowest boat on the cut. Regularly overtaken by canoes, GRPs and Springers :lol:

 

Jill

 

PS drive like a maniac in my car though - I find the contrast very therapeutic! :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When approaching any huge solid object, I always manage to start slowing down exactly 3 metres after the point at which a collision becomes unavoidable.

 

When moored, the sound I dread most is the sound of an engine going into reverse at high speed accompanied by the immortal words "Darling, we're going to...." The word "Darling"is said though gritted teeth. Actualy, how do you grit teeth? Is it a winter thing? Like icy roads. Council employees go out on wintry nights to grit the Snake Pass and some bloke's teeth. Whatever.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But did you drop to tickover once you'd actually or nearly reached his boat, or a few boatlengths beforehand? :lol:

 

He was just above Apsley top lock between the lock and The Albion Bridge. Gave it reasonable throttle until the swim went over the Cill in the lock then dropped to tickover. So Apart from in the lock I was at tickover...................

 

Because of the size of the barge I dont get above 900rpm/2.5mph except in very few selected places on the GU.

 

 

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We've been living aboard and cruising each weekend plus a couple of weeks away on holiday since Nov. Since them we've had our pins pulled at the stern once, the boat went adrift but had been kindly tied up again by persons unknown when we returned. We've not been shouted at to slow down once yet (maybe a record judging by the comments here ?). We've pulled one other boats pins and set it adrift, I went past at tick over but pretty close to it due to the cut being quite narrow atthat point, the boat was in soft ground with singles hort pins (and yes I did stop and tie it back up)'

 

We go to tick over (900 rpm) at about 3 boat lengths and back to 1200 cruising revs a boat length past. We normally tie up with springers if the ground is soft (but hadnt on the day we went adrift, lesson learnt)

 

Les

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1000rpm Luxury

Normal GU cruising is about that, moored boats about tickover 720rpm, and even then I got yelled at last time out.

One boat amongst 4 others , only one complained and he ran 200 yards brandising his club hammer to yell at me that I had pulled his pins............ :lol:

 

Julian

 

Install a smaller engine! :lol:

 

Actually I misread the OP. I normally throttle back about a couple of boat lengths from the first moored boat, but I'm not going very fast to begin with.

 

Yup, but that doesn't actually address the issue.

 

The revs as you pass isn't actually the most important factor. Taking the revs off sufficiently far away, and smoothly is.

 

That may be in the case on your boat but that's not how my boat responds. The revs are the most important factor on my boat. Since I'm only doing 1200rpm anyway, it doesn't make the slightest difference whether I take the 200rpm off suddenly or smoothly.

Edited by blackrose
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I slow down as soon as I see the moored boat, or if I know where the mooring is about 200 yards short. and because I know I have quite a prop draw I usually go into neutral 1/2 a boat length before and coast, or failing that idle at 800 RPM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We've pulled one other boats pins and set it adrift, I went past at tick over but pretty close to it due to the cut being quite narrow atthat point, the boat was in soft ground with singles hort pins (and yes I did stop and tie it back up)'

 

That's something to be commended. Of the boats that have "speeded" past us I've yet to see one even look behind to check how they have affected the moored boats.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's something to be commended. Of the boats that have "speeded" past us I've yet to see one even look behind to check how they have affected the moored boats.

 

Snap, in fact most of them are so eager to whack up the revs they are only looking near the end of the boat they are passing. Some (which makes me laugh), slow a little, get passed you, speed up for 10 yards, slow down a little for the next boat, and carry on until they get to an open stretch. That can't be good for the engine surely!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The technique employed by many heading northwards here is to carry on past the moored boats without reducing speed until halfway along the moorings, when they spot the pub. :lol:

 

Judging your speed by revs is not hard and fast. The 1000 rpm mentioned above would be very different for someone with a vintage engine. Your gearbox might be a 2:1 reduction, another's 3:1. Your prop size may be different to someone else's. The depth of water is another important factor. Surely judging by eye - looking at the bank behind you to see how much ripple your wash is creating - is the best way to assess how much you will affect a moored boat.

Edited by Dominic M
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The technique employed by many heading northwards here is to carry on past the moored boats without reducing speed until halfway along the moorings, when they spot the pub. :lol:

 

Judging your speed by revs is not hard and fast. The 1000 rpm mentioned above would be very different for someone with a vintage engine. Your gearbox might be a 2:1 reduction, another's 3:1. Your prop size may be different to someone else's. The depth of water is another important factor. Surely judging by eye - looking at the bank behind you to see how much ripple your wash is creating - is the best way to assess how much you will affect a moored boat.

 

I agree entirely.

 

Or if you steer like me you can just crash into them at any speed to see how much you'll affect the moored boat. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree entirely.

 

Or if you steer like me you can just crash into them at any speed to see how much you'll affect the moored boat. :lol:

That was you, was it? I did wonder who had decided my kitchen crockery looked good all over the floor :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.