Jotun Primer

[Manxcat54]

My memory is rubbish, yesterday I called at the local boat builder/repairer, they have a painter always on-site, I told him about my boat, and that in the future I would like it painted, but he told me it would be best if I brought it over to him, ah ah ah that won't be happening when it's on woods in a farm, he suggested when the time comes to save money, that I should do as much prep of the steel myself, which seems sensible, I then mentioned if I should prime the flattened shell, he told me that a lot of primers such as grey oxide and red oxide are no good as a base, the finished paint will not last too long on this type of primer, he said if I am going to put anything on, I should use JOTUN 2 pack epoxy primer, and he told me a specific name ? So without going back to pester the poor guy, would anyone on the forum know the specific name, I went on the Jotun website, but there are so many, Penguard seems to sound OK

[truckcab79]

I would have thought if you didn’t want to go back to the guy that told you then a call to Jotun is your best bet. Contact details on their website.  

[LadyG]

I buy all my paint from SML Paints because they have an excellent technical adviser, and sell a huge range of coatings to companies and individuals worldwide , so I would always take their opinion over a local painter, particularly when it comes to prep and priming. , go to Marine Paints and look for a kit, as you will need brushes, rollers, mixing buckets, a penguin kettle. The kits will help with the volumes you will need. 

If the job is being done outside, then it is down to you to prep, it can be a fairly big job, I assume you have power to use something like wire cup brushes on a drill.

If you are talking about a boat which has little or no blacking left, I would go for two pack epoxy to finish, the hull as it will last longer. As with all these things, read the directions and follow them to the letter.

I did not have any difficulty with mixing the two pack, it's not rocket science. Mix in exactly the correct proportions Just keep stirring!

 

Penguard is a range of primers, not all are suitable for OPs boat.

 

 

 

Edited March 26 by LadyG

[blackrose]

Jotun - Jotamastic 90. It's an epoxy paint which goes direct to bare steel, so it's effectively a primer.

 

There are different grades of hardener and I'd recommend the (WG) winter grade harder if the boat is going to be out of the water for a limited time.

 

It's also available with glass flake or aluminium for greater abrasion resistance and barrier properties. For example I painted mine with 2 coats of Jotamastic 90 aluminium followed by 2 coats of "standard" Jotamastic 90 black.

 

The aluminium grade is also available in a silver and red tint so that you can see where you're painting subsequent coats.

 

Download the technical data sheet from Google and follow the instructions including steel prep. Pay particular attention to mixing ratios and minimum & maximum overcoating times.

 

Edit: SML have produced a mixing data sheet for Jotun epoxies which allows you to mix the paint by weight rather than by volume which is a lot easier. You just need a set of cheap digital kitchen scales available on Amazon or eBay for about a tenner.

Edited March 26 by blackrose

[David Mack]

Belfast's hull was primed with Jotun Penguard HB 2 part epoxy primer, and the same was used internally for the bilges.

If you are going to use part cans, the weight of each component you need is given at https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/uploads/files/library/files/2 pack weights 0314.pdf. Get yourself a cheap set of digital kitchen scales to weigh out the 2 components - a fiver from Asda when I bought mine.

Since your boat is already out of the water you would get the best out of a 2 pack epoxy paint system if you had the hull shot blasted first. It will cost, but it will be a better job and will save you days or weeks of running around with an angle grinder and wire brush.

[ditchcrawler]

I think we are talking topsides, not hull, I don't think you would employ a boat painter to put black on .  Maybe the OP can confirm.

[dmr]

1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

I think we are talking topsides, not hull, I don't think you would employ a boat painter to put black on .  Maybe the OP can confirm.

Thats how I read it too. Im not sure that Jotun 90 is the best primer for topsides, but maybe it would be ok if it was sprayed on?

[ditchcrawler]

I think we are talking topsides, not hull, I don't think you would employ a boat painter to put black on .  Maybe the OP can confirm.

[LadyG]

8 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

I think we are talking topsides, not hull, I don't think you would employ a boat painter to put black on .  Maybe the OP can confirm.

I think OP is going to DIY.

If its on the hard, one would still do the hull before launching

I've used several paints, the gunwales are an single pack alkyd semi satin finish, easy to touch up, easy to apply.

My roof is a single pack matt undercoat/topcoat which gets a quickrub down and a recoat when required. It is light white grey so it shows up rust and keeps the boat cool.

The sides, front and back are a marine semi gloss, and  look the same now as when applied three years ago.

The trick is to spend a week on prep, and another seven days faffing about with rollers, brushes, tapes and keeping everything clean. Of course you can do it in a week if you have more helpers/more tools/longer days/perfect weather. If you need seven days to cure the epoxy hull then you have to fit other work around that timescale. Keep a couple of litres back for touch up, unmixed but in proportion.

I could have had my rudder tube epoxied when I had the rudder off, hindsight is a wonderfull thing. Bow thruster tubes are another wulnerable area.

Generally do the top first, and work down, though this is not always possible when painting.

Have all the materials on hand before you start,  remove fittings if possible if there is evidence of rust, clean it, treat it and prime it.

Did anyone mention the baseplate?

Does the hull need any welding?

Edited March 26 by LadyG

[Manxcat54]

9 hours ago, LadyG said:

I buy all my paint from SML Paints because they have an excellent technical adviser, and sell a huge range of coatings to companies and individuals worldwide , so I would always take their opinion over a local painter, particularly when it comes to prep and priming. , go to Marine Paints and look for a kit, as you will need brushes, rollers, mixing buckets, a penguin kettle. The kits will help with the volumes you will need. 

If the job is being done outside, then it is down to you to prep, it can be a fairly big job, I assume you have power to use something like wire cup brushes on a drill.

If you are talking about a boat which has little or no blacking left, I would go for two pack epoxy to finish, the hull as it will last longer. As with all these things, read the directions and follow them to the letter.

I did not have any difficulty with mixing the two pack, it's not rocket science. Mix in exactly the correct proportions Just keep stirring!

 

Penguard is a range of primers, not all are suitable for OPs boat.

 

 

 

I think you read my post wrong, this is for the top of the boat not the hull, and the painter at the boat builders paints top class boats all year round, so I think his advise is something to take onboard rather than a paint distributor, thanks for the input anyway.

[truckcab79]

Id definitely just ask him again.  Not really worth the worry of accidentally using the ‘wrong’ one.  Too much time and money involved.  

[Manxcat54]

4 minutes ago, truckcab79 said:

Id definitely just ask him again.  Not really worth the worry of accidentally using the ‘wrong’ one.  Too much time and money involved.  

I think you are quite right mate

[truckcab79]

3 minutes ago, Manxcat54 said:

I think you are quite right mate

👍I know if it was a client of mine I’d far rather be bothered by them than find they’d used the wrong product or god forbid I had to undo their work and charge accordingly. 

[LadyG]

46 minutes ago, Manxcat54 said:

I think you read my post wrong, this is for the top of the boat not the hull, and the painter at the boat builders paints top class boats all year round, so I think his advise is something to take onboard rather than a paint distributor, thanks for the input anyway.

Is he going to paint your boat though, because it would be likely  that he has paints that he uses all the time, particularly for topcoats. There will be  layers of paint, some might need primer, undercoat, topcoat, topcoat. They need to be compatible, obviously.

Personally, I paint my own boats, and I accept that it's not as good as a top pro job, it is however affordable, and I quite enjoy it. I avoid high gloss because it shows up any flaws, both at the completion stage and later in when you scrape along a tree branch.

Red is notorious for fading, not sure if that is only for traditional coatings or all reds.

I dont know about two pack paints for the superstructure, as I have an idea that they are trickier to apply and to touch up than single pack coats. I am not sure if it would be practical, certainly more complex to weigh out spare paint for touch up.

The other thing is the pack size, for example if you needed a litre of green and 2l of red,, but they are only available in 2.5l, then you are going to have lots of tins left over, and this can be expensive. 

You'll need to ask him again if you want to know what he recommended, but what I am trying to indicate that the coatings that he uses may not be the best for a DIY job, for example he would be able to remove all the fittings, prep the steel to the required bare steel standard, then build up again, this is something the average person can't do, because of the investment in tools, and a temperature controlled shed, it's not rocket science but it does require experience and higher skill levels than the average boater. That's why you have to pay a premium for a pro job.

Then there is signwriting, a different skill, and generally needs to be booked in advance.

Youtube may have the John Barnard series.

Edited March 26 by LadyG

[blackrose]

1 hour ago, Manxcat54 said:

I think you read my post wrong, this is for the top of the boat not the hull, 

 

Ok sorry, in that case ignore my post too!