Alan de Enfield Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 1 minute ago, truckcab79 said: @Manxcat54 just realised there aren’t any pics of the exterior. Post some up. Let’s see what you’ve got. 👍 There are : 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxcat54 Posted March 4 Author Report Share Posted March 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxcat54 Posted March 8 Author Report Share Posted March 8 Whoops forgot the text, this is the poorest reading so far of the base plate, the rust around the one time bathroom area was frightening, I have got most of it down to bare metal, and I have used Vactan on it, then I will paint with red oxide, that should see my days out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Momac Posted March 8 Report Share Posted March 8 On 29/02/2024 at 10:29, Alan de Enfield said: My 36 foot GRP cruiser weighs 11.5 tons (according to the crane driver) Was that with full tanks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckcab79 Posted March 8 Report Share Posted March 8 1 hour ago, Manxcat54 said: Whoops forgot the text, this is the poorest reading so far of the base plate, the rust around the one time bathroom area was frightening, I have got most of it down to bare metal, and I have used Vactan on it, then I will paint with red oxide, that should see my days out. Fantastic! Amazing how bad rust looks until you get scraping. I think it’s 1mm of steel to 10mm of rust or something so doesn’t take much. And Vactan is brilliant. Used it on mine and for car restorations over the years. Even left bare for years it doesn’t seem to suffer. I paint it on the whole area just to make sure I haven’t missed any little rust pits. Always used to worry that it wouldn’t bond to non-rusty steel or other paint finishes but it sticks like the proverbial and just leaves a nice clear coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxcat54 Posted March 8 Author Report Share Posted March 8 (edited) 7 minutes ago, truckcab79 said: Fantastic! Amazing how bad rust looks until you get scraping. I think it’s 1mm of steel to 10mm of rust or something so doesn’t take much. And Vactan is brilliant. Used it on mine and for car restorations over the years. Even left bare for years it doesn’t seem to suffer. I paint it on the whole area just to make sure I haven’t missed any little rust pits. Always used to worry that it wouldn’t bond to non-rusty steel or other paint finishes but it sticks like the proverbial and just leaves a nice clear coating. Pleased to read your comments on Vactan, there are some doubters around, but I discovered it nearly 30 years ago when painting a church steel fence in Yorkshire, I still sometimes pass it, and still no rust showing, that's testament!! I am a bit concerned in the corners where the plate steel meets the angle iron structure, however I am going to just smother it with vactan, and then the same with red oxide. Edited March 8 by Manxcat54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckcab79 Posted March 8 Report Share Posted March 8 53 minutes ago, Manxcat54 said: Pleased to read your comments on Vactan, there are some doubters around, but I discovered it nearly 30 years ago when painting a church steel fence in Yorkshire, I still sometimes pass it, and still no rust showing, that's testament!! I am a bit concerned in the corners where the plate steel meets the angle iron structure, however I am going to just smother it with vactan, and then the same with red oxide. It’ll be fine. I’ve used it for years on Land Rover restos. About as rusty as you can get. 😂. Everyone has their favourite but I’ve not found anything better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted March 8 Report Share Posted March 8 7 hours ago, Momac said: Was that with full tanks? No. less than half - so only about 1 tonne of fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxcat54 Posted March 17 Author Report Share Posted March 17 My pictures keep spinning sideways, I hate that, how can I rectify them? anyway just a quick update on progress on the build, it might not look like progress but believe me it is, the rust was awful in the area shown, it took some grinding and treating, not shown is the engine bay, I have pulled all the ceiling down, and myself and a friend have sanded all the steelwork ready for primer...onwards and upwards 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 2 hours ago, Manxcat54 said: My pictures keep spinning sideways, I hate that, how can I rectify them? anyway just a quick update on progress on the build, it might not look like progress but believe me it is, the rust was awful in the area shown, it took some grinding and treating, not shown is the engine bay, I have pulled all the ceiling down, and myself and a friend have sanded all the steelwork ready for primer...onwards and upwards Turn the boat over before you take the photos? Its probably your camera orientation. Looking better, especially as you show that Celotex will bend happily without cracking. Have you found any of that square tube bracing rusted through? We used to have trouble with it rusting from the inside due to condensation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxcat54 Posted March 17 Author Report Share Posted March 17 1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said: Turn the boat over before you take the photos? Its probably your camera orientation. Looking better, especially as you show that Celotex will bend happily without cracking. Have you found any of that square tube bracing rusted through? We used to have trouble with it rusting from the inside due to condensation. Yes the box section on the walls is pretty awful, but it is still strong after being there for 45 years, I am 69, so I think it will also out live me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nealeST Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 This is truly heroic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxcat54 Posted March 18 Author Report Share Posted March 18 13 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said: Turn the boat over before you take the photos? Its probably your camera orientation. Looking better, especially as you show that Celotex will bend happily without cracking. Have you found any of that square tube bracing rusted through? We used to have trouble with it rusting from the inside due to condensation. When I upload the photo's from my phone to my PC they are all upright, I double check that, but when I load to the forum they turn 90 degrees? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckcab79 Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 16 hours ago, Manxcat54 said: My pictures keep spinning sideways, I hate that, how can I rectify them? anyway just a quick update on progress on the build, it might not look like progress but believe me it is, the rust was awful in the area shown, it took some grinding and treating, not shown is the engine bay, I have pulled all the ceiling down, and myself and a friend have sanded all the steelwork ready for primer...onwards and upwards Very nice. Had my Springer ceiling out this weekend as it happens. Too wet to start taking the windows out. You’ve got a lot more reinforcement in your ceiling than ours. Roof is I think only 3mm and has pretty much no bracing. A tiny strip every few feet. Not sure it’s doing much as evidenced by the flex in the roof and all the dents she’s gained over the years. 😂. All nice and solid and rust-free mind. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 (edited) On 08/03/2024 at 11:10, truckcab79 said: 😂Everyone has their favourite but I’ve not found anything better. I think Vactan is cr@p. Mechanical removal of rust is the best way, but if that's not possible and you must use a rust converter then Fertan is better than Vactan in my experience. Edited March 18 by blackrose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckcab79 Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 (edited) 1 hour ago, blackrose said: I think Vactan is cr@p. Mechanical removal of rust is the best way, but if that's not possible and you must use a rust converter then Fertan is better than Vactan in my experience. Each to their own like anything. I knotted wire wheel mine back to lose any loose stuff. Definitely shouldn’t be going straight over rust ‘as is’. That gets it to pretty much bare steel anyway then the Vactan makes sure it gets any remainder and any pits. Used it for years and even when I’ve not over-coated it many many years later it’s still not come back through. Small parts go in the blast cabinet but I’ll struggle to get the boat in there. Use what works for you though. Edited March 18 by truckcab79 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxcat54 Posted March 20 Author Report Share Posted March 20 Didn't have much time after work, however, I did get one more panel in and added that silver tape, the 2 holes on the left are right through into the engine room, and I intend all but a few of my wiring cables to pass through these holes in plastic round trunking, then the cables shall be divided up and cable tied to a central channel running all the way through the boat, dropping down left and right as required. Also can anyone tell me what the regs are concerning 12v cables and the gas pipe, I wish to send some hefty cables for the water pump and fridge along under the Gunwales?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckcab79 Posted March 20 Report Share Posted March 20 23 minutes ago, Manxcat54 said: Didn't have much time after work, however, I did get one more panel in and added that silver tape, the 2 holes on the left are right through into the engine room, and I intend all but a few of my wiring cables to pass through these holes in plastic round trunking, then the cables shall be divided up and cable tied to a central channel running all the way through the boat, dropping down left and right as required. Also can anyone tell me what the regs are concerning 12v cables and the gas pipe, I wish to send some hefty cables for the water pump and fridge along under the Gunwales?? Get yourself a copy of the BSC regs and confirm for yourself rather than rely on forum advice from people who may or may not be well informed. Much safer and it’s all very sensible straightforward stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted March 20 Report Share Posted March 20 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Manxcat54 said: Also can anyone tell me what the regs are concerning 12v cables and the gas pipe As long as the cables are double insulated (ie Insulated and sheathed) there is no problem running them alongside the gas pipes. Single insulated is not allowed. 5 minutes ago, truckcab79 said: Get yourself a copy of the BSC regs and confirm for yourself rather than rely on forum advice from people who may or may not be well informed. Much safer and it’s all very sensible straightforward stuff. Why not just say the answer is easily 'findable' - go and do your own research and stop asking basic questions. Edited March 20 by Alan de Enfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckcab79 Posted March 20 Report Share Posted March 20 5 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said: As long as the cables are double insulated (ie Insulated and sheathed) there is no problem running them alongside the gas pipes. Single insulated is not allowed. Why not just say the answer is easily 'findable' - go and do your own research and stop asking basic questions. Because that would be rude. You can Google most things that are asked on here but that’s not why people come on forums. Equally the advice given isn’t always correct. On safety stuff it makes more sense to confirm directly. What a strange question. 🙄 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
system 4-50 Posted March 20 Report Share Posted March 20 The BSS is the foundation for everything. It is the bible. The first base. The forum is the next level, where you ask all the questions that are not clearly answered in the bible. And the clarity of the BSS is similar to that of the Bible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted March 20 Report Share Posted March 20 55 minutes ago, system 4-50 said: And the clarity of the BSS is similar to that of the Bible! You mean like where one chapter says "turn the other cheek" and the next chapter say "an eye for an eye" For every guideline there is another quoting the opposite ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted March 21 Report Share Posted March 21 (edited) 14 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said: s long as the cables are double insulated (ie Insulated and sheathed) there is no problem running them alongside the gas pipes. Single insulated is not allowed. Except it is, given sufficient separation, which if I recall correctly is 50mm. However, practicality for the future would, in my view, make putting the wiring in clip top trunking a good idea which then meets the double insulation thing. (From my memory of the BMEA manual that was based on the ISOs.) Edited March 21 by Tony Brooks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
system 4-50 Posted March 21 Report Share Posted March 21 10 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said: You mean like where one chapter says "turn the other cheek" and the next chapter say "an eye for an eye" For every guideline there is another quoting the opposite ? I was thinking more of when I went to a lot of trouble to satisfy a rule only to discover later that the tiny "A" in a corner of the page meant that it was only Advisory not Mandatory. (Has this changed ? - I haven't looked recently.) And whilst I'm winging, why is it so hard to find the rulebook? Its almost like they don't want you to find it. Or has that changed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted March 21 Report Share Posted March 21 10 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said: Except it is, given sufficient separation, which if I recall correctly is 50mm. However, practicality for the future would, in my view, make putting the wiring in clip top trunking a good idea which then meets the double insulation thing. (From my memory of the BMEA manual that was based on the ISOs.) BSS 3:3:2 states (extract) . "Electrical cables must be installed clear of LPG and fuel pipes unless the cables are sheathed with a non conducting material." I checked with the BSS the exact meaning of this and it was confirmed that a twin core cable with insulated cores and an overall PVC sheath could actually be attached to LPG pipes by (say) cable ties and would be fully compliant 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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