Danish Oil (or similar) or Varnish ?

[onthecut]

Well --- the title says it all. What's the general feeling on whether it's better to varnish or oil interior woodwork ? I'm leaning to oil, but open to persuasion.

 

Mike.

[Yoda]

Varnish is easier to clean.

[SteveE]

Well --- the title says it all. What's the general feeling on whether it's better to varnish or oil interior woodwork ? I'm leaning to oil, but open to persuasion.

 

Mike.

 

We've gone for oil - water repellant and flexile, won't peel, , easy to re-finish when required.

SteveE

[andy the hammer]

We've gone for oil - water repellant and flexile, won't peel, , easy to re-finish when required.

SteveE

 

We agree with the above, when varnish looses its shine just think of all that rubbing down

 

[John Orentas]

Surely the point is that you don't want a 'shine', I hate anything that resembles sparkly varnish.. I have always favoured a wax finish though I no doubt would have tried the oil finishes had they been around at that time.

 

For a light oak finish the order of treatment:-

 

Sand down, apply light oak spirit stain, two coats of thinned varnish to seal, sanded after each coat, multiple coating of Beeswax repeated every six months of use.

[PeterF]

We bought our boat 2nd hand, 4yrs old, light oak with neutral danish oil but was looking a bit dull. I had never heard of it before but new I would have to keep to the same. We have now re-oiled the woodwork and it has come up a treat. From complete ignorance I am quite taken by it. I can not compare it to varnish as I have no experience with that in narrowboats either.

[Big Steve]

I use Osmo Polyx oil for all my woodwork. 2 coats only, buffs up to a satin finish. Expensive but goes a long way. Cheaper to buy from my local painters supplies outfit than B&Q. 5L about £45 if I remember rightly. More durable than Danish oil. ( It's meant for wood floors)

[dor]

Well I like danish oil - works a trat on light oak. A couple of coats, the first brushed on, the next coat put on with a rag. Gives a nice matt sheen. See previous discussion on http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php...art=#entry26802

[blackrose]

I've found that oil & wax treated woods tend to pick up a lot more dust. Also if you do manage to buff it to the finish you want it doesn't seem to last very long. I prefer a satin varnish - does what it says on the tin & easier to wipe clean.

[RobinJ]

Well --- the title says it all. What's the general feeling on whether it's better to varnish or oil interior woodwork ? I'm leaning to oil, but open to persuasion.

We found varnsih inside, especially near the stove, cleans easier.

Outside, oil, especially oak (like cratch plank), stops the water staining, easier to restore.

[David Schweizer]

I've found that oil & wax treated woods tend to pick up a lot more dust. Also if you do manage to buff it to the finish you want it doesn't seem to last very long. I prefer a satin varnish - does what it says on the tin & easier to wipe clean.

Ah Ha. We agree on something at last (yes I still remember the "discussion" about door locks)

 

Danish oil, Teak oil ? They both tend to leave a residue which attracts dust, and require regular re-application. They also have a tendancy to absorb moisture which creates an ideal environent for mould growth. Personally, for inside the boat, I would only use a good quality interior varnish from someone like Blackfriars. (available in matt and satin finish for those who dislike a high gloss), and for the outside, a good quality Yacht Varnish. As Blackrose says it does what it says on the tin.

 

We found varnsih inside, especially near the stove, cleans easier.Outside, oil, especially oak (like cratch plank), stops the water staining, easier to restore.

Oak is a very absorbant timber with a deep grain. Ideally to finish it for exterior purposes, you should first fill the grain and then apply about four or five coats of Yacht varnish, this will prevent any staining, but you cannot stop oak from darkening under the effct of sunlight.

 

Any exterior varnish should be renovated at least every two years to maintain the finish, and whatever you do, don't use Polteurethane varnish outdoors, it disintegrates under the UV effect of sunlight.

Edited December 3, 2007 by David Schweizer

[carlt]

Ah Ha. We agree on something at last (yes I still remember the "discussion" about door locks)

 

Danish oil, Teak oil ? They both tend to leave a residue which attracts dust, and require regular re-application. They also have a tendancy to absorb moisture which creates an ideal environent for mould growth. Personally, for inside the boat, I would only use a good quality interior varnish from someone like Blackfriars. (available in matt and satin finish for those who dislike a high gloss), and for the outside, a good quality Yacht Varnish. As Blackrose says it does what it says on the tin.

 

Oak is a very absorbant timber with a deep grain. Ideally to finish it for exterior purposes, you should first fill the grain and then apply about four or five coats of Yacht varnish, this will prevent any staining, but you cannot stop oak from darkening under the effct of sunlight.

 

Any exterior varnish should be renovated at least every two years to maintain the finish, and whatever you do, don't use Polteurethane varnish outdoors, it disintegrates under the UV effect of sunlight.

 

If you do use varnish then I'd have a look at 'le Tonkinois' a natural, organic varnish which contains linseed, and tung oil for greater penetration in oily hardwoods.

 

It is also highly UV resistant and very durable. You also don't need to apply a dozen coats.

 

Personally, I prefer oil outside because of its better penetration and it is a more durable finish.

 

Edited to remove apostrophe before Moley saw it.

Edited December 3, 2007 by carlt

[Lesd]

After going over all of the old threads on the forum last year I choose to use Rustin's Danish oil on our interior wood. It looks great and was very very easy to apply (3 coats rubbed on with a cloth, dead simple, light sanding at the end). I remember seeing Richard Bustin's comments about how maintenance free an interior oiled finish was and that if it did get marked a simple application of some more oil with a rag would cure the problem without any other preparation. This sold it to me and so far Im very pleased with the results. I did use Yacht varnish on the exterior Sapele (stern deck rail and bow doors), also the area immediately inside the stern around the hatch where rain is always going to get in.

Rgds

Les

[David Schweizer]

If you do use varnish then I'd have a look at 'le Tonkinois' a natural, organic varnish which contains linseed, and tung oil for greater penetration in oily hardwoods.

 

It is also highly UV resistant and very durable. You also don't need to apply a dozen coats.

 

Personally, I prefer oil outside because of its better penetration and it is a more durable finish.

 

Edited to remove apostrophe before Moley saw it.

Very interesting. I have looked it up and from the description it is basicly very similar to what I know as Traditional Oil Polish I did not know about the Chineese attribution, but it was certainly being used by European Cabinet Makers in the 17th century, and predates French Polish. You say you do not need to apply a dozen coats, but the Manufacturers recommend at least eight coats for external use.

 

I have used Oil Polish on a lot of the furniture that I have restored and can vouch for it's durability. It should be applied with a soft lint free cloth. or brushed on with larger porous timbers. Allow 24 hours for the first coat to dry and apply three or four more coats, each subsequent coat takes less time to dry. I have never tried to use it on external timber so I cannot vouch for its durability outdoors,

 

You can make it yourself by heating some Pure Pale Boiled Linseed Oil in a pan which is immersed in boiling water and adding a quantity of Pure Wood Alcohol or Pure Turpentine (or both) but as you risk setting the workshop on fire it is better to buy it. Ronseal produce it and market it under the trade name of " Colron Wood Reviver" Unfortunately it is only available in 250ml cans which makes it work out at nearly £20 a litre. I managed to buy about six cans very cheaply some while ago in a clearance sale.

 

Edited to add:- I have just been reading up on different Oil finishes, and it would seem that True Danish Oil is Polymerized Linseed Oil, so it should not differ very much to Traditional Oil Polish. The main difference seems to be the absence of any liquid driers, which will make it easier to work with, but take much longer to harden.

 

Most instructions seem to suggest that two or three coats will be sufficient, and given that you are supposed to buff off the excess rather than let it dry naturally, could explain why it often needs re-applying after a few years. You simply are not putting much on in the first place, The absence of liquid driers would of course explain why it appears to attract dust and mould, un-treated Linseed oil does that as well.

 

Some Products marketed as Danish Oil would appear to vary from the original formula adding other ingredients. Finding out what these additional ingredients are and whether they work as well seems almost impossible to discover. Some manufacturers avoid accurate description of the ingredients altogether using phrases like " a blend of natural oils", whatever that is supposed to mean.

 

I now realize that my dislike of Danish Oil may be based on using an inferior product in the past which bore the name but few of it's attributes. but as I cannot find out I will stick to the products I can trust.

Edited December 3, 2007 by David Schweizer

[blackrose]

Any exterior varnish should be renovated at least every two years to maintain the finish, and whatever you do, don't use Polteurethane varnish outdoors, it disintegrates under the UV effect of sunlight.

 

The PU varnish on my interior window liners had started to craze & crack because of UV. I lightly sanded back and applied a couple of coats of yacht varnish.

Edited December 4, 2007 by blackrose

[carlt]

Many Yacht Varnishes are PU based, but have uv filters added.

 

BTW, you will notice on the tins of many of the diy stores' yacht varnishes the words "not for marine use" . So what is it for then?

[onthecut]

Keep up Carl --- we're in the age of nonsense signs ---- firelighters --- keep away from naked flame, etc. My all time favourite goes back to when BOC started handing out the cards you are suppoesed to have in the vehicle if transporting gas cylinders. For acetylene, one of the 'symptoms' of inhalation was 'death' ! Can't say they didn't tell you.

 

Mike.

[ChrisPy]

Be aware that a drying rag soaked with Danish Oil can spontaneously combust. I leave mine out to dry in the sunshine where they can't do any harm.

[David Schweizer]

Many Yacht Varnishes are PU based, but have uv filters added.

 

BTW, you will notice on the tins of many of the diy stores' yacht varnishes the words "not for marine use" . So what is it for then?

Correction Carl. some varnishes that are marketed as Yacht Varnish contain Polyeurethane, but they are not Proper Traditional Yacht Varnish and should be avoided. I am personally sceptical about the UV filter claim.

 

I use Blackfriars Yacht Varnish which in have been assured by the manufacturers does not contain Polyeurethane. I al;so understand that Phil Speight produces an external varnish without PU as well. I have not used it yet but am planning to use it to varnish the back panels next year.

[carlt]

Correction Carl. some varnishes that are marketed as Yacht Varnish contain Polyeurethane, but they are not Proper Traditional Yacht Varnish and should be avoided. I am personally sceptical about the UV filter claim.

 

I use Blackfriars Yacht Varnish which in have been assured by the manufacturers does not contain Polyeurethane. I al;so understand that Phil Speight produces an external varnish without PU as well. I have not used it yet but am planning to use it to varnish the back panels next year.

If the trading standards bods haven't got a problem with the description then neither have I.

 

I would never buy a PU based yacht varnish but that doesn't stop them being out there. In fact I don't use anything with 'yacht varnish' on the tin.

 

One thing I am tempted to try, though, is coelan to seal the decks of the lifeboat. This is a PU sealant which has some rather favorable endorsements in the yachty world. It is also sikaflex friendly (my days of using jeffery's no2 are over)

[Big Steve]

I use Osmo Polyx oil for all my woodwork. 2 coats only, buffs up to a satin finish. Expensive but goes a long way. Cheaper to buy from my local painters supplies outfit than B&Q. 5L about £45 if I remember rightly. More durable than Danish oil. ( It's meant for wood floors)

 

Should have said not for external use, the sun peels it off, doesn't leave a deposit like Danish oil, but has all the other advantages of an oil finish.

 

Use some Wickes own brand sealer for external wood work, brilliant stuff, satin finish, quick rub down and recoat when required, can't remember the name of it, but I'll look in the shed tomorrow and post it.

[jeb]

I use Osmo Polyx oil for all my woodwork. 2 coats only, buffs up to a satin finish. Expensive but goes a long way. Cheaper to buy from my local painters supplies outfit than B&Q. 5L about £45 if I remember rightly. More durable than Danish oil. ( It's meant for wood floors)

 

No Steve you remembered wrongly, £45 thats for 2.5 litres. However having used several products on sample pieces including varnish and danish oil I have settled on using Osmo.

[nichimyo]

Internal woodwork, we have mostly Danish oil, I don't like it, it gives a very hard-looking finish, and if you accidentally put it on too thick it goes sticky. I prefer a light vegetable oil on the raw wood, then beeswax to buff it up.

[Big Steve]

No Steve you remembered wrongly, £45 thats for 2.5 litres. However having used several products on sample pieces including varnish and danish oil I have settled on using Osmo.

 

I must have been having a funny turn if I paid that for it, or the salesperson was gorgeous.

Still not been in shed to check on Wickes stuff, there's always tomorrow.

[Big Steve]

I must have been having a funny turn if I paid that for it, or the salesperson was gorgeous.

Still not been in shed to check on Wickes stuff, there's always tomorrow.

 

Eventually hacked my way into the shed today, it's Wickes High Performance Woodstain, comes clear satin or with a hint of whatever takes your fancy. Also found Johnstone Woodworks satin, which I'm sure is what the Wickes stuff is in disguise. Anyway, both work well, easy to apply, easy to repair, long lasting, nice satin finish.

 

Steve