Induction hob and built-in single electric oven and grill

[Mike Tee]

Does anybody on here have experience in using the above on a landline (16a) in a marina? If so, what make and model?

I don't really understand electrickery terminology so can't work out from advertisers tech specs what I am limited to with 16a available on a landline.

 

[Jen-in-Wellies]

15 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:

Does anybody on here have experience in using the above on a landline (16a) in a marina? If so, what make and model?

I don't really understand electrickery terminology so can't work out from advertisers tech specs what I am limited to with 16a available on a landline.

 

How much power does all this consume when everything on it is switched on? If it exceeds around 3.5kW, then your 16A land line will be insufficient. That also assumes you are not running anything else from the mains at the same time, like an immersion heater in your cauliflower, or an electric kettle.

 

Edited February 6, 2022 by Jen-in-Wellies

[pearley]

We use a CDA twin ring induction hob, 1400 watts each ring. Neff Hide & Slide Oven 3kw. Leave Multiplus inverter in so power assist boosts input if necessary.

When not on shoreline, like today, we have built-in gennie.

[IanD]

47 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:

Does anybody on here have experience in using the above on a landline (16a) in a marina? If so, what make and model?

I don't really understand electrickery terminology so can't work out from advertisers tech specs what I am limited to with 16a available on a landline.

 

 

Unless you have an inverter/charger which can use the batteries (which need to be big!) to boost power for short periods (see post above), if you turn too much on you'll trip the mains cutout.

 

Induction hobs only take the rated peak power if you turn all rings up to maximum at the same time, which will rarely (never?) happen. Same thing for an oven with a grill, this will only happen if you run it flat-out in an "Intensive cooking" mode where both oven and grill elements are used together. In these unusual cases, either can use up pretty much all the power available. Turning on a kettle or a microwave (or a washing machine, or a vacuum cleaner, or an iron, or immersion heater, or...) at the same time is also likely to push things over the edge, as is turning on the oven at the same time as the hob.

 

In other words you *can* use an induction hob and an electric oven on a 16A shoreline so long as you're pretty careful how you use them, and also what else you use at the same time. But turning things on without thinking -- like in a house -- is likely to lead to frequent power trips... 😞

Edited February 6, 2022 by IanD

[Mike Tee]

Thanks for the responses - I'm guessing the more modern the appliance, the more efficient it will be as to power use? Other than (?) initial switch on.

[Jen-in-Wellies]

7 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:

Thanks for the responses - I'm guessing the more modern the appliance, the more efficient it will be as to power use? Other than (?) initial switch on.

To a certain extent. However, cooking with electricity is never going to sip tiny amounts of power.

 

[David Mack]

52 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:

Thanks for the responses - I'm guessing the more modern the appliance, the more efficient it will be as to power use? Other than (?) initial switch on.

Not really. The process of turning electricity into heat is effectively 100% efficient. The only thing that varies is how much of that heat gets into your cooking and how much is wasted. For a hob that probably has more to do with your choice of pan than anything designed by the manufacturer, and an oven can only be more efficient if it is better insulated, and adding insulation takes up space, so there isn't much incentive to do that.

[IanD]

16 hours ago, David Mack said:

Not really. The process of turning electricity into heat is effectively 100% efficient. The only thing that varies is how much of that heat gets into your cooking and how much is wasted. For a hob that probably has more to do with your choice of pan than anything designed by the manufacturer, and an oven can only be more efficient if it is better insulated, and adding insulation takes up space, so there isn't much incentive to do that.

 

Not true for induction hobs; regardless of the hob or the pan, most of the electrical energy (more than 90%?) is turned into heat in the pan. Differences between ovens are also small, for the reasons stated.

 

If you want to use electric cooking with a 16A shoreline you're either going to have to be very careful or spend a lot of money -- at least a couple of grand -- on a big inverter/charger (e.g. Victron Multiplus, at least 3000W) and battery bank (capable of supplying several hundred amps) which can boost the incoming power when you're cooking and charge the batteries when you're not.

 

If you also want to be able to use this when cruising, you'll not only need an even bigger inverter/charger (at least 5000W) and batteries but also need a much beefier means of charging the batteries than a standard alternator -- either one (or more) high-current alternators, or a decent-sized generator -- again, not cheap (at least another couple of grand, much more with an inbuilt diesel genny). You could add a lot of solar panels if you have the space but these are pretty much useless in the winter.

 

In other words, all-electric cooking on a boat doesn't make sense unless you already have a high-powered 230V electrical system on board -- and even then it probably at least doubles the cost/power of this compared to a "normal" 230V system capable of running electrical appliances like washer/microwave/toaster, especially if you want to be able to go cruising not just stay plugged-in all the time. The cost of doing all this will be many times higher than the hob/oven cost... 😞

 

The only time it does make sense is on a hybrid boat where all this is already in place as part of the propulsion system, but this costs several arms and legs not just one... 😉

Edited February 7, 2022 by IanD

[Martin Nicholas]

I have two cheap (~£30) induction rings and two microwave ovens, one of which is a combi.

 

Also I use an immersion heater for water. Its thermostat also switches, in the opposite fashion, a socket for a fan heater.

 

I have to be quite careful when cooking on a 16A shoreline. I had a 10A hookup once, requiring extreme care. On my 5kW inverter I can be quite reckless; the sound of the fans spinning up gives a strong hint that I'm using too much and should flip some switches pronto.

 

How much power you use depends very much on your cooking style. Cooking on 16A will not be like cooking on a house, compromises will be needed.

[IanD]

BTW, the reason for the OPs query is he's considering buying an existing "gas-free" boat, not fitting one out as such, and is trying to figure out if it would suit as is, or whether some changes are needed, or maybe even whether it's a good idea at all...

 

[and don't worry, I've already pointed out the possible issues with these boats via PM...]

[Ronaldo47]

Are you, or anyone else likely to be in your boat, fitted with a pacemaker? 

 

Just before covid, a government minister suggested that people should switch from gas to greener induction hobs. The following day letters signed by some  eminent heart specialists  appeared in the papers, pointing out that the official NHS  advice was that it was dangerous for pacemaker wearers to get closer than two feet from an induction hob when it was in use, because the electromagnetic field could affect the operation of the pacemaker. No more was heard on this subject from the minister. 

[Mike Tee]

Not yet!!