Lister ST2?

[ThePiglet]

Hi All,

 

I've just bought a new trencher which came with the Lister pictured below. The plate has been painted over, but I think it is an ST2.

The oil was dark, but in the middle of the dipstick, and I ran it for an hour or so the other day when it started to lose power. I put it to idle and it stalled. It's aircooled, but there was a bubbling noise coming from the crank case ?

I've drained the oil from it and got about 10 litres. It seems thin, so I'm suspecting it has been diluted with diesel from the internal pipes somewhere. That's OK, I'll find that, but my concern is the dipstick was still reading in the middle of the dipstick. I've put 5L in (didn't have a jug to measure the 400ml extra yet) and nothing is showing yet at all.

Is 9.5 pints (5.4L) correct for this engine, and if it is, given the dipstick is a bit rudimentry, should I just 're-calibrate' the dip-stick?

 

Oil also seems to be leaking out of the rocker covers, maybe time for new gaskets.

 

 

 

 

 

[bizzard]

2 hours ago, ThePiglet said:

Hi All,

 

I've just bought a new trencher which came with the Lister pictured below. The plate has been painted over, but I think it is an ST2.

The oil was dark, but in the middle of the dipstick, and I ran it for an hour or so the other day when it started to lose power. I put it to idle and it stalled. It's aircooled, but there was a bubbling noise coming from the crank case ?

I've drained the oil from it and got about 10 litres. It seems thin, so I'm suspecting it has been diluted with diesel from the internal pipes somewhere. That's OK, I'll find that, but my concern is the dipstick was still reading in the middle of the dipstick. I've put 5L in (didn't have a jug to measure the 400ml extra yet) and nothing is showing yet at all.

Is 9.5 pints (5.4L) correct for this engine, and if it is, given the dipstick is a bit rudimentry, should I just 're-calibrate' the dip-stick?

 

Oil also seems to be leaking out of the rocker covers, maybe time for new gaskets.

 

 

 

 

 

,

It isn't a ST2, almost certainly SR2.  And it should only hold about 9 pints of oil about half of what you say. Sounds like your have a fuel leak on the i njection system dropping into the crankcase and raising the level, hence overheating and the bubbling noise.

[ThePiglet]

Ah, OK, cheers.
The manuals for the SR2 say 5.4L or 9.5 pints too, so I'll adjust the dipstick to centre on that volume.
I'll try to get the paint off the plate to confirm the model.

[bizzard]

31 minutes ago, ThePiglet said:

Ah, OK, cheers.
The manuals for the SR2 say 5.4L or 9.5 pints too, so I'll adjust the dipstick to centre on that volume.
I'll try to get the paint off the plate to confirm the model.

You have an oil filter ''industrial engine'' accounts for the extra 1/2 pt of oil.  To remark the dipstick, just a couple of strokes with a Junior hacksaw.

[ThePiglet]

Thanks Bizzard,

I went back to the engine a few days ago and found that it has a compression problem on the cylinder closest to the output shaft. When I started it again, the cylinder wasn't getting hot at all, I can also turn the engine over with the 'good' cylinder decompression on, though not easily.

 

It has aluminium push rods, and I measured the clearances at about 0.35mm cold. Bopping the valves didn't make any difference.

With the fuel pump window off (which had sellotape on a homemade cork gasket!?), it sounded like the compression was escaping through the crankcase, I've taken off the heads and found a right mess in the cooling tins, so no wonder it was overheating.

I can't see any scoring in the cylinder bore, I'll see if the valves leak fluid tonight, but it's looking like I might have to take the piston out.

I did discover that the cap that screws onto the top of the injector was loose on the affected cylinder, and there was fuel between the cap and the large slotted top.

It then started raining, and since I'm doing this in the middle of some woods, I left it at that for now.

 

Serial number for those playing along, is 4610SR2Z17, 14.5HP, 2200RPM.

 

The puddle of fuel in the good cylinder is I think from where I was turning it over a bit.

 

[David Mack]

11 minutes ago, ThePiglet said:

 

Serial number for those playing along, is 4610SR2Z17, 14.5HP, 2200RPM.

So that confirms it is an SR2, anticlockwise rotation and the 4610th engine built in 1967.

http://www.stationaryengine.org/lister_dating5.html

Edited June 14, 2021 by David Mack

[ThePiglet]

12 minutes ago, David Mack said:

So that confirms it is an SR2, anticlockwise rotation and the 4610th engine built in 1967.

http://www.stationaryengine.org/lister_dating5.html

 

A rare one then ?

[Tracy D'arth]

How heavy is the step in the top of the bores? It doesn't look bad from here, the bores are clean. Get the bores measured for ovality, diameter and taper top to bottom.

You may be away with new pistons or even just new rings. The overheating will have warn the pistons a bit more than normal but they look not to have seized.

[Tony Brooks]

Probably an optical illusion but one f the pushrods looks bent but if the clearance is correct it should still run.

[ThePiglet]

Thanks all,

I did measure the cylinders, but to be honest, I didn't have the confidence or knowledge in diagnosing it properly. I bought a couple of new cylinder and piston sets and plopped those in. 
The injector pump on the problem cylinder would also pump with no injector connected, but not build pressure to fire the injector when connected. The replacement was a Bryce (original was a Cav) and the marks on the shafts (to sync them) don't seem to match distances between the two brands. Any advice on how to set them up the same? I was thinking to measure the speed with each decompressor down and get them to match?

The fuel lift pump stopped working too, one of the springs behind a valve just decided not to spring anymore, so replaced that.

 

It's all back together, just waiting on a second set of intake/exhaust gaskets to attach the manifolds. I have managed to loose one of the manifold studs and two of the nuts (brass).
Does anyone know where I can get them or what the thread for them is? 

I pay, or have two old cylinders/pistons if you want to swap 😂

 

 

[BEngo]

Namrick will sell you small numbers of brass manifold nuts and studs. Bizzard will probably be along shortly to tell you what the threads are. My guess would be 5/16 dia, UNC into the heads and UNF on the manifold end. Measure one of the others for length.

 

N

 

[Roxylass]

Remember that the gaskets go on

The outside of the exhaust manifold

[Tony Brooks]

And don't tighten the heads down until the manifold in on and tight. Otherwise, it's possible the faces for the manifold won't line up so you snap the manifold when tightening.