Fridge 12 volt purchase

[LadyG]

You can just see the thin tube / thick steel wire on the left where it enters the control unit

[Tony Brooks]

Thanks, That knob at the front makes me think it is a thermostat rather than the electronic motor control box and if I am correct that "solid wire" could well be the thermostat capillary tube, but the other end should disappear into the fridge, possibly the freeze compartment if it has one. If I am correct trying to get it off the "control unit" will wreck it. It may pull out of the back of the fridge but may be held in with a big wodge of Bluetak like stuff.

[LadyG]

14 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Thanks, That knob at the front makes me think it is a thermostat rather than the electronic motor control box and if I am correct that "solid wire" could well be the thermostat capillary tube, but the other end should disappear into the fridge, possibly the freeze compartment if it has one. If I am correct trying to get it off the "control unit" will wreck it. It may pull out of the back of the fridge but may be held in with a big wodge of Bluetak like stuff.

Yes, it is  only the thermostat control, ie nothing inside except a light. It is the only way I can control the fridge.

So this capillary tube probably goes in to the fridge via this route , there is a freezer.

Obviously the electricity is coming from the rear , but how did someone instal it, or was the galley built after the the fridge was in place, and if so, does this means I cant replace it without dismantling the galley? I have technical assistance in a few days, they are going to replace the fridge but I have to get rid of the old one, I am near the council tip.

I don't want to have any faff with capillary tubes , can I just get a fridge that is easier to fit, or is this whole capillary tube a red herring, and if I unplug the electrics, at the thermostat, and pull out the fridge, the whole thing should slip out, leaving the electrics dangling.

Edited August 24, 2022 by LadyG

[Tony Brooks]

11 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Yes, it is the only thermostat control, ie nothing inside except a light. 

So this capillary tube probably goes in to the fridge via this route , there is a freezer.

Obviously the electricity is coming from the rear , but how did someone instal it, or was the galley built after the the fridge was in place, and if so, does this means I cant replace it without dismantling the galley? I have technical assistance in a few days, they are going to replace the fridge but I have to get rid of the old one, I am near the council tip.

 

From what I can see in the photos you have enough space to pull the wires off that unit. What we think is the capillary tube should just pull out with the fridge because Both ends are fixed to the fridge. I also think that I can see what looks like a bulb holder, I think all those black wires and the "bulb holder" might be connected to an electronic control unit, also fitted to the fridge. I this is the case I think the 12V electrical connections will below down at the back,  especially if the inner lining has a "step" in it that accommodates the compressor unit.

 

It would not be the first time that a galley has been build around the appliances, especially a sit seems it was a DIY fit out.

 

I fear it is a case of looking at both sides of the fridge in case there is a removable panel or trying to pull it out some more so you can reach down the back

[Tony Brooks]

I think the capillary tube is a red hearing, it should come out withy the fridge and thermostat unit a sone piece. Somewhere down the back there should be a hefty pos and neg cable feeding the fridge, that is what needs disconnecting. As long as you can find a suitably sized fridge all that should be required (after letting it settle after transit) is to reconnect the pos and neg wires and slide the fridge back into the appature.

 

[LadyG]

Ok, I'm going to get a smaller fridge, more ventilation, and less power, I think I know more than I did, so ready to get rid of this old thing, paint the housing and freshen it all up. Just have to find the trip fuse to kill the 12 volts. Not sure what fridge to get, but that's for another day , it's usually better to get the same make as it should plug and play.

I think I felt resistance to removal, and stopped pulling at that stage, but I don't know any other way to get it out. I did suggest to the fitters that they revamp the whole galley, worktop, cupboards, sink included, but they were not keen as at the moment the taps work. I understand that logic.

Edited August 24, 2022 by LadyG

[Richard10002]

11 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Ok, I'm going to get a smaller fridge,

 

Have you got 2 fridges fitted? I thought you bought a Waeco/Dometic CRX or CRE 50, (using Paypal), in May 2020.

 

When my not very old CRX50 failed in 2020, I bought a CRE50, which seems to be doing OK so far.

 

I have no space at the sides but a couple of inches at the bottom and top. I made a hole in the floor and fitted a computer fan that runs 24/7 when the fridge is on. I have another fan in the floor at the front of the boat, so I hope there is lots of air circulating under the floor and around the fridge.

[Tony Brooks]

Can you tip the fridge forwards, top towards you, to see if it frees any cables it might be sitting on?

[LadyG]

2 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:

 

Have you got 2 fridges fitted? I thought you bought a Waeco/Dometic CRX or CRE 50, (using Paypal), in May 2020.

 

When my not very old CRX50 failed in 2020, I bought a CRE50, which seems to be doing OK so far.

 

I have no space at the sides but a couple of inches at the bottom and top. I made a hole in the floor and fitted a computer fan that runs 24/7 when the fridge is on. I have another fan in the floor at the front of the boat, so I hope there is lots of air circulating under the floor and around the fridge.

You are correct, and it added to my Nectar points, but for some reason I can't remember the transaction was cancelled, by the vendor! It's unreal!

Edited August 24, 2022 by LadyG

[Alan de Enfield]

 

Posted in error

Edited August 24, 2022 by Alan de Enfield

[LadyG]

Oh dear, another reprieve for fridge!

I couldn't find the fuse for the fridge, but tried to remove the wiring at the thermostat ...... guess what happened next

[Mike Hurley]

5 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Oh dear, another reprieve for fridge!

I couldn't find the fuse for the fridge, but tried to remove the wiring at the thermostat ...... guess what happened next

More drama?

Fire, explosion?

[LadyG]

Less drama

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

Have you took the door off to see if the light still works?

[LadyG]

1 hour ago, Goliath said:

Have you took the door off to see if the light still works?

Yes, it works much harder that way, unfortunately it thinks it's a freezer and even with door closed it runs 23/24, I think maybe there should be a tray under the freeze box to control these excesses. Anyway I

can still chill my beer in an hour, and maybe the coolbox will stay cool enough to keep my salad fresh. I have to turn it off overnight or I won't get any sleep.

Edited August 24, 2022 by LadyG

[LadyG]

Finally, bought the Dometic crx80, it's up and running.

Very quiet and runs intermittently 24/7 with no drama. 

I have not removed the freezer compartment as I have enough room for a few days fresh food supply and currently have no frozen food, essentially to conserve energy, it's on one star chilling at the moment.

 I've seen others have said it uses about 16amps per day, I think that's about right.

There should be a warning about the blue flip lid on the door shelf which breaks on day1 if you don't lower that shelf immediately on unboxing!

Edited November 14, 2023 by LadyG

[Alan de Enfield]

3 minutes ago, LadyG said:

 I've seen others have said it uses about 16amps per day, I think that's about right.

 

Then you are very lucky, mine uses (a measured) 30Ah per day, but that will change with number of door openings and ambient temperature.

[Guest]

1 minute ago, LadyG said:

Finally, bought the Dometic crx80, it's up and running.

Very quiet and runs 24/7 with no drama. 

I have not removed the freezer compartment as I have enough room for a few days supply and currently no frozen food, essentially to conserve energy. 

 I've seen others have said it uses about 16amps per day, I think that's about right.

There should be a warning about the blue flip lid on the door shelf which breaks on day1 if you don't lower that shelf immediately on unboxing!

 

Replacement parts can normally be had for Dometic stuff pretty readily but they are ridiculously expensive for what they are. I've just replaced one of the hinges on the freezer door on ours and it was over twenty quid for a bit of spring loaded plastic.

[MtB]

7 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I've seen others have said it uses about 16amps per day,

 

LadyG probably means AmpHours per day, for anyone confused by the above. 

[LadyG]

Just now, MtB said:

 

LadyG probably means AmpHours per day, for anyone confused by the above. 

Yes,  16ah, I just picked up that info from a YouTube, unboxing.

On startup it drew 4amps (clamp meter), and took a good hour to settle down. Very pleased. The fact the previous one lasted twenty years was the decision factor, also I expected it to work with existing wiring, which it does,  a chock box connector (sigh), needs to be replaced.

 

[Tony Brooks]

I am intrigued to know what see means by "I have not removed the freezer compartment". On my Dometic fridge, it was an integral part.

[Guest]

1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

I am intrigued to know what see means by "I have not removed the freezer compartment". On my Dometic fridge, it was an integral part.

 

Some Dometic fridges have the ability to unclip and slide out the freezer compartment and use the entire unit as a fridge only.

[Tony Brooks]

Just now, M_JG said:

 

Some Dometic fridges have the ability to unclip and slide out the freezer compartment and use the entire unit as a fridge only.

 

That is interesting, thanks. It suggests the freezer plate is at the top, back or sides.

[Guest]

Just now, Tony Brooks said:

 

That is interesting, thanks. It suggests the freezer plate is at the top, back or sides.

 

This is ours currently removed and waiting to go back in after repair.

 

 

 

The diagram on the front flap shows how to remove it.

[LadyG]

6 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I am intrigued to know what see means by "I have not removed the freezer compartment". On my Dometic fridge, it was an integral part.

It's the latest thing, a Unique Selling Point. The freezer compartment is thick plastic and removable to form a larger larder fridge.