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I've been making some improvements to the multifuel stove setup on my recently purchased narrowboat, namely around fire protection where the flue exits through the internal ceiling. The stove is a Valor Willow. I've just noticed that the two locating "lugs" on the collar that connects the flue to the stove top are missing. It looks like they've corroded and broken off at some point in the past. Someone on here had kindly advised me to buy some envirograf 1200 degree flexible heat sealant, and I also have a new length of 6mm fire rope that looks like it will sit nicely in the channel in the bottom of the collar. It looks like you can buy a similar replacement collar for around £50. My question is, would it be safe to refit the existing collar sealing it to the stove top using the rope and also some heat sealant? I presume the weight of the flue and the collar itself will apply a reasonable amount of downward force to allow the rope and sealant to create an airtight seal but wanted to check people's opinions before doing so.
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Hi Canalworld! I’m about to put an offer on a great boat that meets my needs but the one big concern is that the only source of heat is the multi fuel stove. I know they are lovely but given my lifestyle/working hours etc I think that will be a struggle for me. I’ve heard lots about Refleks stoves and other diesel fed stoves and I think I would really want/need to convert the stove to that (after an initial trial period first). My question is whether that is possible given the location of the current Skladove stove? It’s right in the middle of a 57ft boat. I’d prefer not to need a pump as I’ll be CC’ing so electricity might be scarce in the winter when I most need the heat. The diesel tank is in the stern, which is a long way to maintain a gravity only line, plus I’d guess the pipe would need to run along the starboard side to reach the stove without crossing a doorway, but that would end up running behind or above the oven - is that safe and BSS compliant?! Alternatively a separate tank could possibly fit in the bow locker but then the pipe would run through the shower which is full height with sealed off doors and tiled - so are there ways around that without needing a new shower? Is the best option putting a tank on the roof and having a pipe through a mushroom vent? or would you need to drill through the roof? Again is that BSS safe with sun exposure? Maybe stainless steel tanks would be ok? Final option is in the main living area near the stove, but maybe that’s not safe and has issues with fumes? Sorry for the detail, I would just call Lockgate Stoves but I’m hoping for some guidance asap so I can make an offer before the other people viewing the boat! Any other recommendations for who could help install/convert would also be appreciated! Thanks Friendly new boater looking for advice! 🙂
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Hello, My narrow boat has the stove flue feed through the sidewall. It draws fine. Has anyone else heard or had this design? I've only seen them on wide beams.
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Have just bought my first canal boat and will be taking up permanent residence in the New Year. What logs do people recommend for my wood burner? Ideally over the Winter months I would like to keep my boat warm using just the wood burner. ☺️
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From the album: Petes
Heating layout for boats combining gravity and pumped radiators plus a gas or diesel heater.-
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From the album: Petes
Basis for an open vent heating system for a boat fed by a backboiler. Uses adequately sized gravity 'heat dump' rads nearby or next to the stove, and more distant rads and calorifier on a pumped circuit.© smileypete :-)
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From the album: Boit
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Hi all 👋, first post on here but probably one of many, I'm currently looking into the heating system I am going to install on my widebeam i was hoping you could take a look and tell me what you think and if it all looks ok. (Heating sorce: Solid fuel fire and diesel water heater Heating up - radiators, under floor heating and hot water) I am thinking of installing the bubble b1c1 corner stove with back boiler, also what are peoples thoughts on the Prity AM 12 ( https://fireplacesforhome.com/Wood-Burning-Stove-Corner-Model-Fireplace-Log-Burner-Solid-Fuel-Prity-AM-12kw ) multifuel stove? And also a webasto diesel water heater. All my heating appliances are going to run to the NRG zone 5 manifold wich does allow thermosyphon , I plan to have 4x radiators, underfloor heating and calorifier attached. The diagram is missing the PRV and the pipes from the back boiler to the heating manifold will be in 28mm. My biggest worry is the thermosyphon safety as it is going to run to the heating manifold so i dont have any heat leak. Any input would be appreciated. Kind regards Brad I've linked the NRG zone let me know what you think to using this as I can't see any post speaking about this or any manifold. https://www.nrgawareness.com/product/nrg-zone-4-5-6-32-32-28/
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Can anyone recommend someone who can measure up and manufacture a single skin 4 inch flue, either black painted steel or stainless? Reasonable radius from Autherley junction at the bottom of the Shroppie preferred so they can get to me to measure up, otherwise somewhere there's water in the cut if I need to go to them! Thanks in advance.
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Does anybody know what make/model of stove this is please? I can't find any makers plate or writing on it anywhere. Thanks!
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I've read quite a lot of threads and seen a lot of pictures online of people's stove installations. I know this is a topic that's been discussed at length, but I remain puzzled about what's going on when it comes to the BSS. I sought advice from a surveyor who just said "dunno, I'd have to see it" - not a response that filled me with confidence or that was in fact helpful when I'm trying to design something with dimensions that I can be confident will pass an inspection. Some stove suppliers publish advice such as this (PDF) and this (PDF), which purports to be based on official regulations but is, as far as I can tell, advisory unless the boat is a new build. The essential recommendation is that there should be 225mm of hearth in front, 150mm to any unprotected side, fireproof panels made of 25mm CaSi board (I suppose vermiculite would work as well) protecting any combustible materials, a gap of 45mm between stove and panels and, for a single-walled flue, at least three times the flue's diameter to any combustible material. This implies a 650mm square hearth (approximately) with 35mm panels (if tiled) plus 10mm air gaps and something that goes all the way up the wall to the roof. On a boat that's only 6ft-something wide inside, that's a lot of space. Needless to say, very few of the pictures I've seen of people's actual installations are anything like this. Typically a stove is crammed into the corner next to steps (let's not open the box of whether that's a good place or not), with a hearth of maybe 50-100mm in front and a few tiles behind it, with no apparent fireproof protection either behind the flue or even sometimes between the stove and a wood-panelled wall or frighteningly adjacent curtain. A bloke I met at Ellesmere last year said "they just look for scorch marks and if there aren't any, you're fine". No wonder there are boat fires. You don't hear a continuous flow of stories about people failing their BSS the first time after fitting their new stove, so it appears the surveyors indeed aren't fussed about the recommendations and essentially do "just look for scorch marks". I want a safe installation of what is genuinely a hazardous piece of equipment, but I don't want to take up unnecessary space and I don't want to be the only fool who actually follows the recommendations to the letter (or rather, number) when no one else is bothered. Anyone care to spell out how it actually works?
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Hi all, I am very, very new to the world of narrowboats. Hopefully getting my boat within two or three weeks. I am posting on the forum because I am unable to identify the make and model of the multi-fuel stove on my boat-to-be. The boat's specification booklet says it's called an Olivia and was supplied by Northern Fabrications. I emailed Northern Fabrications asking about this stove. They emailed back and Eddie said that he's never heard of it. I cannot find a stove called Olivia on the Internet, so far - or it's going to take a much thorough search. I have also looked at hundred of images of stoves in the hope of seeing another like it. Please see the attached photo and hopefully someone may recognise it. Thank you in advance Unix
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Could someone help please, my outside of the stove has cracked is it possible to repair it or its it a case of getting a new one from machine mart?
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Stove chimney extension corroded on to collar
Chribley posted a topic in Boat Building & Maintenance
I've bought a 50' replica Thames stemhead barge about a month ago. The stove, a Morso Squirrel 1410, was working fine at first and the whole boat got really hot, but now it won't get more than warm, even with the ash pan air valve wide open. In fact, even with the ash pan door open it doesn't really heat up like it did before. I think the flue needs investigation for blockages and cleaning, but I can't get the stainless steel extension off the collar on the roof. It's a custom made extension and I think should just lift off, but something - corrosion? tar? - has glued it solid. I tried tapping it with a hammer round the base but only managed to make some dents in the otherwise smooth and shiny steel! My next thought was to heat it up vigorously with a blowlamp round the base, but before I do I'd appreciate any thoughts that might save me from doing any more damage. -
Hi everyone We are just going through the build process of our first boat, we are getting a semi fitted Sailaway and we know exactly what we are doing ourselves and what we are getting ready built. Everything that is except for the wood burning stove. We would like to do this ourselves and are well versed and very good at this type of building however neither of us have had experience fitting a wood burning stove before. We where hoping for some advice as to if we should take this on ourselves, which is something we would be keen to do, or if there we should pay for someone to install it, or ask the boat builders themselves to do it (at an additional cost obviously). Our may concern are obviously safety, but we are also interested to get an idea of cost as well as we can't seem to find a lot of information on this. Any advice appreciated Megan
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Hi, another rookie question!!! I have a wood burner (so I'm told) which has cracks all around the collar where it joins the top of the stove. Also, last winter it started leaking rain in through the top of the flue pipe somewhere. So, I've just got round to sorting things out for this winter. How do I remove the flue pipe from the collar on the top of the stove, should it 'simply' pull up all be it with a bit of gentle persuasion? At the moment it's not budging.
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OK - we've heard all the arguments and experience for and against. If you want to check for yourself, get yourself down to your local Aldi where they (may) have one on sale for £23.00. Not sure how long they have been on sale but my branch had 20+ left this am.
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Hi, I'm just about to purchase my first stove for my Narrowboat and need some advice. The stove is a Firefox 5 clean burn and I want to follow all the safety instructions as much as possible. I spoke to the manufactures of the stove and they state that it must sit on a 2 inch concrete or granite hearth but when I look at http://www.soliftec.com/boat%20stoves%201-page.pdf recommended installation instructions, it states "The hearth needs to project at least 225mm in front and 150mm to each side of the stove OR have a high lip. Made of sturdy, non-flammable material, to fully protect combustibles underneath." So nothing about the base having to be concrete or granite. The FireFox chap did say he was quoting building regulations though but also he did say the Firefox 5 Clean Burn Multi-Fuel Stove was suitable for a Narrowboat. My question is, are building regulations applicable on Narrowboats when it comes to installing a stove and would my insurance be void if there is a fire and the stove was not sitting on a recommended building regs of a 2 inch concrete or granite hearth? Any help with this matter would be very much appreciated.
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As the winter is quickly approaching, I'm working on installing a wood stove on my stoveless (yet) boat. I'm restricted by price and size (the smaller the better). My question is from two parts: 1. What are your experiences with burning wood in smoke control areas? This seems to be a nice and cheap stove, but it is not defra approved: https://www.gr8fires.co.uk/mazona-signet-4-kw-multi-fuel-wood-burning-stove?nosto=nosto-page-category2 2. The Hobbit stove and Hobbit SE (smoke exempt) seem to be good stoves too. It looks like they have the same specs, but Hobbit SE is defra approved and allowed to burn wood in smoke control areas, while standard hobbit is not. However, Hobbit SE is £70 more expensive. Does anybody have an idea if there is going to be an actual difference between the two stoves, or it is simply the certification that puts one stove at a higher price range? The link to both stoves: https://salamanderstoves.com/the-hobbit-stove Also I'm open to any suggestions about other stoves! Thanks!
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Hi all, So like the numpty newbie that I am smashed on the 24/7 heating to get through this cold snap and almost completely ran out of diesel. Resulting in the flame going out and the stove (a Morso squirrel conversion) sooting up quite heavily.. something thats never happened before. Any way I awaited a diesel delivery gave the stove a good clean out and froze to death for a couple of nights. I was hoping that a full tank of diesel would be all that was required to get some heat back in our lives. Not the case. The stove can be lit and burns a healthy blue flame but after about 20 minutes (can also hear a rather loud and fast dripping sound) the flame gradually lowers itself down the burner pot until its just a yellow flame burning away the remaining diesel in the hole where the fuel drips through until it burns out. Anyone have any ideas whats going on or what I can do to remedy this. I have used the cleaning rod, I have cleaned out the stove, paying attention to remove the coke from all of the little air holes in the burner pot. If I turn the regulator on I can physically watch the diesel entering the burner pot. The stove has been rock solid until running out of fuel, really need to get this sorted as its unbearably cold right now! Thanks in advance
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Hi everyone I am about to install a stove on my new boat after surviving this winter with only radiators! I'm very tight on cash hence the late instillation and I'm hoping to construct the hearth myself but I want to ensure it is going to be safe not just for myself but for any potential future owner. I am struggling a bit with converting the instructions in the manual to what is appropriate in a boat setting. Hoping there are some informed people here that might be able to help. This is the manual for my stove. Although this manual is a newer version. My stove is 9 yrs old and the old manual has this number DIN EN 13240 . The stove also has a CE marking. http://www.hetas.co.uk/wp-content/mediauploads/Franco-Belge-Monaco-Installation-Operating-Instructions.pdf However,following the instillation instructions in the manual seems to mean we will need a constructional hearth measuring 125mm thick with a 50mm air gap, I've read in other posts that stoves with a CE marking only need a 12mm hearth. Is this correct? If not, how have people tackled the above requirement? I also have questions about the size of the hearth. The manual recommends 300mm in front of the stove or 225 if the stove is not to be operated as an open fire. This means the total size of my hearth is to be about 860mm wide, and 730 deep. Seems huge compared to all the other hearths I've seen on boats. I am aware that this distance can be reduced if the hearth is installed with a high 'lip' is there any guidance on how much the size of the hearth can be reduced by with a lip and how high the lip should be? Thanks everyone
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Afternoon all, I am renting a narrowboat as a continuous cruiser. I'm aware that this is a controversial thing to do, however, I would like the benefit of your shared wisdom without any judgement as i have a question with regards to stove maintenance that has me stumped. Essentially, my stove hasn't been serviced since the landlord bought the boat 2.5 years ago, and he is digging his heels in about getting it sorted. As winter approaches, I am concerned about my safety, especially as it has been leaking water when it rains due to a faulty chimney and the seals connecting the pipe to the body of the stove and inside of the roof/chimney collar look old and a bit worn. Over the next week I will be replacing the glass, stove rope and chimney, however, should I be insistent over getting the stove serviced or will I be ok? To clarify, there are no visible holes, cracks or gaps on the body of the stove, though I can't see if this is the case where the pipe connects to the chimney collar. Thanks in advance for any advice. Cheers, Bob.
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Hi all, I recently purchased a narrowboat and am now settling in to living aboard. There were a couple of things about my boat that appealed to me, one of the tipping points was the bubble corner diesel stove, it is back boiled and supplies heat to the back cabin through a radiator and also heats my hot water. Another thing that appealed to me was the "switch on and leave it" possibility as I work full time and that way I can keep the place warm whilst in out, especially at the moment. Anyway, i come home the other night and open the back door and the air is almost purple with fumes, a seal failed on the stove and allowed diesel to escape the burning pot and evaporate off the hot surface to the rear, the cabin was filled!!!!!!!! Dear lord, the fumes would have turned even the most hardened stomach! The alarms were all blazing, luckily I didn't switch a light on or i fear the air would have ignited. Of course I undertake the reccomended cleaning guidelines as per the bubble owners manual, but that doesn't anticipate failures of this magnitude. I have been on the phone to a guy who services these, its nearly £200 not including parts! This should be done yearly. Due to this i am now reconsidering the entire arrangement, as in 2.5 years I could buy a mid-low end multi fuel stove for the price of the servicing alone! Now that I'm actually living aboard Im also noticing issues with the arrangement I did not anticipate with my rose tinted glasses, I constantly burn my leg and hand on the piping for the backboiler as I walk through the boat. I think I just want to rip it all out. Im on a 57ft trad stern, the stove is located just inside the cratch doors and presently I find that the stove struggles to heat the rear cabin, there is no obstruction between the stove and the rear cabin, we wanted the air to flow through the walkway for most efficient heating. Am I correct in believing diesel stoves don't burn as hot as multifuel stoves? Im talking output not burn efficiency. To heat the space Im considering a 7kw multifuel stove (reminder Im on a 57ft boat), would this be sufficient? Even being next to the cratch doors? I know this is not an ideal location but Im trying to work with what I've got, I don't want to move it unless totally necessary. Off a "good fill" how long can one expect a coal fire to last? 8-9hrs? I am considering removing the backboiler system, relying upon immersion to heat my water whilst in the marina and the engine when out and about, do many have this arrangement? Also, I find that I'm using in excess of 40l of diesel in a week, equating to roughly £30, is there any saving on coal? Im sure you can guess this isn't my reason for wanting to switch, bit its nice to know. Thanks in advance! If you never get a response from me its because the diesel stove has finally finished the job!
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Hi all, I recently switched my boat around and removed a diesel stove and installed a conventional multi fuel stove, I honestly cant believe the difference!!! I intend to install a mini range in the cabin (a 2-3kw mini multi fuel), I have seen one which can have a backboiler fitted to it, I would like to connect this to the calorifier to heat up my water (as I already have existing pipe work and pump in line). The stove will be about 10-12foot in distance from the calorifier and will not heat any radiators en-route, my concern is that the water in the piping will wet too hot and start to vapourise as there will not be enough heat dispersing during the short travel time. Is this a warranted concern? My intent is to run the stove 30 mins to 1 hour per day in order to give me enough hot water for a shower and to do the dishes. Again, any help would be really appreciated! (stoves seem to be taking over my life at the moment) Thanks!!!!