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  1. Have just bought my first canal boat and will be taking up permanent residence in the New Year. What logs do people recommend for my wood burner? Ideally over the Winter months I would like to keep my boat warm using just the wood burner. ☺️
  2. Hi, here is all the information that I could find on this subject: Gravity fed systems for heating with a backboiler - the Intro section says enough that you can get a rough idea of what you must do (Added on the 18/09/2015) - Key principles is enough to get you started - and in Design there is more information for geeks who like to understand it all, or for people who need to debug I am designing a simple system which does not include a calorifier, so I have not included any information on this subject in this Summary. If you would like to add it, let me know and I will let you modify the text. There are still some questions that have not been answered. I have copied all of them here, below. If you have a short and clear answer to any of these questions, please post it here and I will add it to this summary. I might start discussion threads for some of these questions, if it turns out that the answer is complex and needs further discussion, or if no-one answers the question in the next few days. Important questions: Slope: - Why is the return pipe often straight-ish? Is the slope on the top pipe more important than the slope on the return? If yes, why? Pipes: - do you anneal copper pipes yourself, or do you buy them annealed? - could I use plastic hose to connect both the top pipe and return pipe to the radiators? That would save a lot of copper pipe bending. What would be the drawback, apart from appearance? The hose would have to tolerate boiling water temperature, too... Header tank: - is it a good/bad idea to have the top of the header tank outside of the boat? Radiators: - how can I know whether a radiator has a suitable bore, or whether it will cause too much friction? Coolant: - can you use tap water, or should you use distilled water? Why? Fiiling ratio: - how much water / coolant do you put in your system? (read the relevant part of the document, for more info) Geek questions: Thermostat: - is a thermostat only useful if you have a pump, or also for gravity-fed systems? (to prevent the water from flowing below 30C, for example) And where would you put it? On the return, on the top pipe, or on both? Pump: Apparently a centrifugal central heating pump would allow water to circulate via gravity when it's not running. Is that true? How would you choose such a pump? (how much power, etc) Anti-freeze: - Why do you need to premix anti-freeze and water before? (what difference does it make?) - How much anti-freeze do you put, with water? 50%? But Anti-freeze does not flow as well as water, and does not transfer heat as well, so less anti-freeze might be better? Is 30% alright in the winter? Pipe size: - Why do people recommend a 22mm pipe to the header tank, instead of a 28mm pipe which would make it easier for hot water to escape? - Is it better to have 28 to 15mm adapters on the rads, or to have 15mm pipes Tee-ing to the rads? The second options enables to have a tighter bend, which causes friction, but enables the radiators to be higher. Misc: - SmileyPete said this in an old post, and I don't understand the word "lagged" in this context, any idea? Here is the text: "a good way of doing it is to have an adequately sized gravity 'heat dump' rad(s) near or next to the stove, then more distant rads and/or calorifier on a pumped circuit connected by 15mm pipes, ideally lagged. That way the gravity rads can be shut off and all the heat directed to the furthest rad." ------------ I wrote this by reading, organizing and summing up all of the relevant information discussions threads that are mentioned in the Index of common topics on this forum, plus a few other sources of information on internet.
  3. Hi all 👋, first post on here but probably one of many, I'm currently looking into the heating system I am going to install on my widebeam i was hoping you could take a look and tell me what you think and if it all looks ok. (Heating sorce: Solid fuel fire and diesel water heater Heating up - radiators, under floor heating and hot water) I am thinking of installing the bubble b1c1 corner stove with back boiler, also what are peoples thoughts on the Prity AM 12 ( https://fireplacesforhome.com/Wood-Burning-Stove-Corner-Model-Fireplace-Log-Burner-Solid-Fuel-Prity-AM-12kw ) multifuel stove? And also a webasto diesel water heater. All my heating appliances are going to run to the NRG zone 5 manifold wich does allow thermosyphon , I plan to have 4x radiators, underfloor heating and calorifier attached. The diagram is missing the PRV and the pipes from the back boiler to the heating manifold will be in 28mm. My biggest worry is the thermosyphon safety as it is going to run to the heating manifold so i dont have any heat leak. Any input would be appreciated. Kind regards Brad I've linked the NRG zone let me know what you think to using this as I can't see any post speaking about this or any manifold. https://www.nrgawareness.com/product/nrg-zone-4-5-6-32-32-28/
  4. Can anyone recommend someone who can measure up and manufacture a single skin 4 inch flue, either black painted steel or stainless? Reasonable radius from Autherley junction at the bottom of the Shroppie preferred so they can get to me to measure up, otherwise somewhere there's water in the cut if I need to go to them! Thanks in advance.
  5. Could someone help please, my outside of the stove has cracked is it possible to repair it or its it a case of getting a new one from machine mart?
  6. Hi all, I am very, very new to the world of narrowboats. Hopefully getting my boat within two or three weeks. I am posting on the forum because I am unable to identify the make and model of the multi-fuel stove on my boat-to-be. The boat's specification booklet says it's called an Olivia and was supplied by Northern Fabrications. I emailed Northern Fabrications asking about this stove. They emailed back and Eddie said that he's never heard of it. I cannot find a stove called Olivia on the Internet, so far - or it's going to take a much thorough search. I have also looked at hundred of images of stoves in the hope of seeing another like it. Please see the attached photo and hopefully someone may recognise it. Thank you in advance Unix
  7. I've bought a 50' replica Thames stemhead barge about a month ago. The stove, a Morso Squirrel 1410, was working fine at first and the whole boat got really hot, but now it won't get more than warm, even with the ash pan air valve wide open. In fact, even with the ash pan door open it doesn't really heat up like it did before. I think the flue needs investigation for blockages and cleaning, but I can't get the stainless steel extension off the collar on the roof. It's a custom made extension and I think should just lift off, but something - corrosion? tar? - has glued it solid. I tried tapping it with a hammer round the base but only managed to make some dents in the otherwise smooth and shiny steel! My next thought was to heat it up vigorously with a blowlamp round the base, but before I do I'd appreciate any thoughts that might save me from doing any more damage.
  8. Afternoon all, I am renting a narrowboat as a continuous cruiser. I'm aware that this is a controversial thing to do, however, I would like the benefit of your shared wisdom without any judgement as i have a question with regards to stove maintenance that has me stumped. Essentially, my stove hasn't been serviced since the landlord bought the boat 2.5 years ago, and he is digging his heels in about getting it sorted. As winter approaches, I am concerned about my safety, especially as it has been leaking water when it rains due to a faulty chimney and the seals connecting the pipe to the body of the stove and inside of the roof/chimney collar look old and a bit worn. Over the next week I will be replacing the glass, stove rope and chimney, however, should I be insistent over getting the stove serviced or will I be ok? To clarify, there are no visible holes, cracks or gaps on the body of the stove, though I can't see if this is the case where the pipe connects to the chimney collar. Thanks in advance for any advice. Cheers, Bob.
  9. Hi all, So like the numpty newbie that I am smashed on the 24/7 heating to get through this cold snap and almost completely ran out of diesel. Resulting in the flame going out and the stove (a Morso squirrel conversion) sooting up quite heavily.. something thats never happened before. Any way I awaited a diesel delivery gave the stove a good clean out and froze to death for a couple of nights. I was hoping that a full tank of diesel would be all that was required to get some heat back in our lives. Not the case. The stove can be lit and burns a healthy blue flame but after about 20 minutes (can also hear a rather loud and fast dripping sound) the flame gradually lowers itself down the burner pot until its just a yellow flame burning away the remaining diesel in the hole where the fuel drips through until it burns out. Anyone have any ideas whats going on or what I can do to remedy this. I have used the cleaning rod, I have cleaned out the stove, paying attention to remove the coke from all of the little air holes in the burner pot. If I turn the regulator on I can physically watch the diesel entering the burner pot. The stove has been rock solid until running out of fuel, really need to get this sorted as its unbearably cold right now! Thanks in advance
  10. Hi there, My partner and I are new to boating and looking to buy a live aboard narrow boat. After viewing a lot of boats (my boyfriend is 6'2'' so has narrowed down our search!) today we have seen a boat that ticks the boxes. However the stove doesn't appear to be in good condition, there is a crack at the back of it (which doesn't appear to be coming through to the inside) and the chimney is very cracked and rusty. We're debating whether we would just replace it or could it be repaired? I have some photos but I don't know how to upload them, bear with me while I work it out and will hopefully upload them shortly.
  11. Hi everyone, My partner and I live on a tidal part of the Thames on a little wooden boat. We're in the process of building out new dream home - a steel Dutch barge, and we're looking into the best ways to heat it. At the moment we're strongly considering a pellet stove boiler, linked up to a thermal heating store. We could also link up a solar heat panel to the thermal heating store too, to give us a bit of leeway in the summer months. One major concern for us that this point is that boats move! We wanted to see if anyone has any insight or opinion on the impact this could have on the plumbing, and specifically the thermal store. We're unclear on how robust the various pipes leading in and out of it are, the connections between the pipes and the store, as well as it's internal mechanisms. Is it something that could break if it moves around too much...? We could keep it as secure as possible so it isn't bumped, but we certainly can't prevent the boat rocking when faster boats whizz by, as they often do! Any and all insight really welcome! Big thanks in advance, Gabs
  12. Hi you lovely bunch! I'm designing a new galley for my boat and I was wondering if there is a safe distance between a gas cooker and a mutli-fuel stove I should consider? Should I aim to keep them as far away from each other as possible? Thanks in advance
  13. hi everyone, I'm trying to find long Double skin chimney, ideally over 28" (28" would do too). The longest I was able to find were 24" but that would keep my flue just around 2m altogether, I would prefer it a little bit longer. Could anyone recommend a chandlery which stocks these? Thanks!
  14. Hi All, I am in the process of buying my first narrowboat, 46ft and it has a really rubbish wood burner that I would like to rip out and put in a new bubble diesel stove. The little 4kw corner one. What I am struggling with is approximate costs for retro fitting one. Has anybody done this and what were the rough costs involved. I know it's really dependant on the boat etc, but I I am mainly wondering how much to budget. Not including the stove are we talking £500? £1,000 £2,000 etc. I don't currently have a dedicated diesel tank, just the main one. Any help appreciated.
  15. Hi all, I recently switched my boat around and removed a diesel stove and installed a conventional multi fuel stove, I honestly cant believe the difference!!! I intend to install a mini range in the cabin (a 2-3kw mini multi fuel), I have seen one which can have a backboiler fitted to it, I would like to connect this to the calorifier to heat up my water (as I already have existing pipe work and pump in line). The stove will be about 10-12foot in distance from the calorifier and will not heat any radiators en-route, my concern is that the water in the piping will wet too hot and start to vapourise as there will not be enough heat dispersing during the short travel time. Is this a warranted concern? My intent is to run the stove 30 mins to 1 hour per day in order to give me enough hot water for a shower and to do the dishes. Again, any help would be really appreciated! (stoves seem to be taking over my life at the moment) Thanks!!!!
  16. Hi I'm having problems with the gravity feed to my diesel stove. It is currently fed from the main diesel tank at the stern whilst the stove is right at the front of the boat. I have thought about having the fuel 'polished' but this is quite expensive and I'm not convinced it would cure the problem. A more permanent solution would be to fit a small separate diesel tank somewhere in the well deck with a simple gravity feed. Something like a 40 litre tank would do as I doubt I'm getting through more than 30 litres per week. Has anyone done this either DIY or getting a bloke in? If so, can you provide some advice and potential costs please? I've found some tanks online that aren't too expensive, but it's the fitting I'm not sure of - especially in terms of the BSS implications. Many thanks Adam
  17. Hi everyone, Me and my partner have just moved on to our 57 x 10 wide beam and are having a slight nightmare keeping the boat warm! Where we are moored we're not allowed to use the multi fuel stove so that leaves us with either the 5kw Webasto or electric fan/ convection heaters. The Webasto heats the radiators and we've balanced them so that all get equally hot but there are only three and all are small so it does very little to actually keep the boat warm. The electric heaters do warm the boat up but over the long run I'm assuming the cost will be more than other heating options? We are permanently moored with 240v I think our options are 1) take the hit and use electric to keep it warm 2) buy a bigger webasto and presumably also bigger / more radiators or 3) install a diesel fuel stove? Although I'm not sure if this would be allowed either (I would need to check), the issue with the solid fuel stove is the smoke it creates, even smokeless coal Any suggestions about which option to go for? Or anything else we could do?
  18. Hi all, I recently purchased a narrowboat and am now settling in to living aboard. There were a couple of things about my boat that appealed to me, one of the tipping points was the bubble corner diesel stove, it is back boiled and supplies heat to the back cabin through a radiator and also heats my hot water. Another thing that appealed to me was the "switch on and leave it" possibility as I work full time and that way I can keep the place warm whilst in out, especially at the moment. Anyway, i come home the other night and open the back door and the air is almost purple with fumes, a seal failed on the stove and allowed diesel to escape the burning pot and evaporate off the hot surface to the rear, the cabin was filled!!!!!!!! Dear lord, the fumes would have turned even the most hardened stomach! The alarms were all blazing, luckily I didn't switch a light on or i fear the air would have ignited. Of course I undertake the reccomended cleaning guidelines as per the bubble owners manual, but that doesn't anticipate failures of this magnitude. I have been on the phone to a guy who services these, its nearly £200 not including parts! This should be done yearly. Due to this i am now reconsidering the entire arrangement, as in 2.5 years I could buy a mid-low end multi fuel stove for the price of the servicing alone! Now that I'm actually living aboard Im also noticing issues with the arrangement I did not anticipate with my rose tinted glasses, I constantly burn my leg and hand on the piping for the backboiler as I walk through the boat. I think I just want to rip it all out. Im on a 57ft trad stern, the stove is located just inside the cratch doors and presently I find that the stove struggles to heat the rear cabin, there is no obstruction between the stove and the rear cabin, we wanted the air to flow through the walkway for most efficient heating. Am I correct in believing diesel stoves don't burn as hot as multifuel stoves? Im talking output not burn efficiency. To heat the space Im considering a 7kw multifuel stove (reminder Im on a 57ft boat), would this be sufficient? Even being next to the cratch doors? I know this is not an ideal location but Im trying to work with what I've got, I don't want to move it unless totally necessary. Off a "good fill" how long can one expect a coal fire to last? 8-9hrs? I am considering removing the backboiler system, relying upon immersion to heat my water whilst in the marina and the engine when out and about, do many have this arrangement? Also, I find that I'm using in excess of 40l of diesel in a week, equating to roughly £30, is there any saving on coal? Im sure you can guess this isn't my reason for wanting to switch, bit its nice to know. Thanks in advance! If you never get a response from me its because the diesel stove has finally finished the job!
  19. Hi All, I am going to attempt to change my diesel bubble stove for a nice new Morso 04 wood burner to preparing for winter ! I am going to put the stove in the same place and use the existing hole in the roof, but I will need to purchase a new flue as the one on the bubble is 4" and on the new Morso it is 5" 125mm, my roof collar seems to be 5" and just has some wooden packing around it so hopefully this isn't too much of a problem, I have read lots about the twin wall debate for chimneys and am happy with either really, I measured the length from top of stove to ceiling and make it approx 1300mm and I am struggling to find a flue this long. So I was wondering how do people do it ? do you join them or buy the flexi pipes? I am planning on fitting both ends with flexible high temp silicon, is it as straight forward as just fitting the chimney this way ? Any advice greatly appreciated, Thanks Martin
  20. Dear Friends, I am planning on replacing my existing stove with a stove from the Chilli Penguin range. The Flue collar on the stove itself is 5". All of the Chandlers I have spoken with only sell 4" or 4.5" flue pipe for inside the cabin. I have two questions really: a) Anyone got experience / opinions about using a 5" > 4.5" adapter and using a 4.5" flue pipe b ) Twin Wall is recommended by BSS 8511 but I think its overkill So Chilli Penguin offer a kit, for a very top price of £793!!! I think by using single wall can get the price down to £220. Speaking to experienced boat chandlers the opinion seems to be that BSS 8511 is really 'recommendations' only when it comes to single / twin wall flues and their relative distances to combustible surfaces. Been using Single wall 5" for two years without any issues. Only reason I cant now use 5" again for the new stove, is that the roof collars don't accept 5" flues (or at least I haven't managed to find any). Just spoken to a boat safety person (who issue the certificates). Frankly shocking how little they seem to know about BSS 8511 or even really any clear advise about how a stove flue / chimney should be constructed. Any advise would be really appreciated, read so many forums, spoken to so many people and reading BSS 8511 and not getting much clarity. many Thanks Stuart
  21. I wonder if anyone could offer advice about which kind of stove to get? I'm after a Morso Squirrel, and have seen a couple of variants - radiant or convection. (1410/1412/1430?) Also options for ribbed or squirrel motif sides - does this mean the difference with being called radiant or not? Are there other important differences to do with the grate/riddling or airflow etc? The stove will be sited in my 62ft boat, at the end of the 15ft saloon furthest away from the bow doors. I'm hoping it will keep the saloon warm and cosy while keeping the rest of the boat ambient at least. I anticipate burning fuel that you buy in bags (smokeless or is it coal?) rather than foraged wood. Of course - plenty of other tips needed regarding safe installation and.... how on earth do you cut the hole out in the roof for the flue?! I have previous experience with a domestic stove, ashore. thanks,
  22. Dear Friends, I am creating a gravity fed heat sink for my new stove back boiler. Thanks to help on this site, I have ironed out many of the questions I needed answer to. However one still remains. For the heat sink aspect of a gravity fed system, would a 10 - 12 meters of 22mm cooper pipe made into a sort of towel rail allow water to thermosyphon. Would be using a pipe bender not joints to keep joint restrictions at near zero. There would be a lot of horizontal pipes in this design idea, which is a concern, I don't have enough experience to know if gravity circulation would function enough under these conditions. Would use mounts all the way along to support the pipe. Haven't done the maths yet, in terms of how much heat would be displaced, but will get back to that after, once I know this design will work. Please enjoy my wonderful diagram which hopefully will assist the explanation :-)
  23. Hi, I am about to fit my stove and am unsure of what brand to buy, I have a widebeam so want a 5.5-6.5kW stove but dont necessarily want to go for a morso or stovex because of their price. Has anyone used a cheaper alternative and been happy with it? What is the difference between cheaper models, is it how long they last? Many thanks, Will
  24. Hello, About to have a chili-penguin stove delivered with a 8000BTU (1.3KWH) boiler which slots in at the back. Was going to use a non-pressured system, but as my calorifier is level with the stove (about 8 metres away) I wont be able to take advantage of gravity circulation. So I was going to buy a small pump, 12v, something like this: http://www.elyboatchandlers.com/12v-central-heating-pumps/jabsco-12v-circulation-pump Is this strictly speaking ok? My concern is, if the pump were to fail while the fire was in full swing then many bad things could happen which I wont list here. Am I better off scraping my back boiler project on the basis that I cannot rely on gravity given the configuration of the stove and tank? Thanks
  25. Hi I had my Lockgate diesel-fuelled stove serviced a couple of months ago, but have been unable to test it due to an apparent blockage in the fuel line. Now that the weather's beginning to turn, I need to sort it out. It has been suggested that I get a simple pump and install it inline, close to the stove. This will allow me to run it very briefly until I can see fuel entering the bottom of the stove, then flick it off again. I'm not sure, without removing wooden panels, whether I have a 12v supply near the stove but I definitely have 240v as there is a wall light right next to it. So, I'm thinking that 240v will be fine, especially as I will only want to run it for a few seconds at a time and when I'm on the cut, this won't draw too much from the battery bank. Has anyone else done this before? Can you recommend a pump? Is this a good idea?? Many thanks
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