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I've been making some improvements to the multifuel stove setup on my recently purchased narrowboat, namely around fire protection where the flue exits through the internal ceiling. The stove is a Valor Willow. I've just noticed that the two locating "lugs" on the collar that connects the flue to the stove top are missing. It looks like they've corroded and broken off at some point in the past. Someone on here had kindly advised me to buy some envirograf 1200 degree flexible heat sealant, and I also have a new length of 6mm fire rope that looks like it will sit nicely in the channel in the bottom of the collar. It looks like you can buy a similar replacement collar for around £50. My question is, would it be safe to refit the existing collar sealing it to the stove top using the rope and also some heat sealant? I presume the weight of the flue and the collar itself will apply a reasonable amount of downward force to allow the rope and sealant to create an airtight seal but wanted to check people's opinions before doing so.

Hi Canalworld! I’m about to put an offer on a great boat that meets my needs but the one big concern is that the only source of heat is the multi fuel stove. I know they are lovely but given my lifestyle/working hours etc I think that will be a struggle for me. I’ve heard lots about Refleks stoves and other diesel fed stoves and I think I would really want/need to convert the stove to that (after an initial trial period first). My question is whether that is possible given the location of the current Skladove stove? It’s right in the middle of a 57ft boat. I’d prefer not to need a pump as I’ll be CC’ing so electricity might be scarce in the winter when I most need the heat. The diesel tank is in the stern, which is a long way to maintain a gravity only line, plus I’d guess the pipe would need to run along the starboard side to reach the stove without crossing a doorway, but that would end up running behind or above the oven - is that safe and BSS compliant?! Alternatively a separate tank could possibly fit in the bow locker but then the pipe would run through the shower which is full height with sealed off doors and tiled - so are there ways around that without needing a new shower? Is the best option putting a tank on the roof and having a pipe through a mushroom vent? or would you need to drill through the roof? Again is that BSS safe with sun exposure? Maybe stainless steel tanks would be ok? Final option is in the main living area near the stove, but maybe that’s not safe and has issues with fumes? Sorry for the detail, I would just call Lockgate Stoves but I’m hoping for some guidance asap so I can make an offer before the other people viewing the boat! Any other recommendations for who could help install/convert would also be appreciated! Thanks Friendly new boater looking for advice! 🙂

Hello, My narrow boat has the stove flue feed through the sidewall. It draws fine. Has anyone else heard or had this design? I've only seen them on wide beams.

Have just bought my first canal boat and will be taking up permanent residence in the New Year. What logs do people recommend for my wood burner? Ideally over the Winter months I would like to keep my boat warm using just the wood burner. ☺️

Hi, here is all the information that I could find on this subject: Gravity fed systems for heating with a backboiler - the Intro section says enough that you can get a rough idea of what you must do (Added on the 18/09/2015) - Key principles is enough to get you started - and in Design there is more information for geeks who like to understand it all, or for people who need to debug I am designing a simple system which does not include a calorifier, so I have not included any information on this subject in this Summary. If you would like to add it, let me know and I will let you modify the text. There are still some questions that have not been answered. I have copied all of them here, below. If you have a short and clear answer to any of these questions, please post it here and I will add it to this summary. I might start discussion threads for some of these questions, if it turns out that the answer is complex and needs further discussion, or if no-one answers the question in the next few days. Important questions: Slope: - Why is the return pipe often straight-ish? Is the slope on the top pipe more important than the slope on the return? If yes, why? Pipes: - do you anneal copper pipes yourself, or do you buy them annealed? - could I use plastic hose to connect both the top pipe and return pipe to the radiators? That would save a lot of copper pipe bending. What would be the drawback, apart from appearance? The hose would have to tolerate boiling water temperature, too... Header tank: - is it a good/bad idea to have the top of the header tank outside of the boat? Radiators: - how can I know whether a radiator has a suitable bore, or whether it will cause too much friction? Coolant: - can you use tap water, or should you use distilled water? Why? Fiiling ratio: - how much water / coolant do you put in your system? (read the relevant part of the document, for more info) Geek questions: Thermostat: - is a thermostat only useful if you have a pump, or also for gravity-fed systems? (to prevent the water from flowing below 30C, for example) And where would you put it? On the return, on the top pipe, or on both? Pump: Apparently a centrifugal central heating pump would allow water to circulate via gravity when it's not running. Is that true? How would you choose such a pump? (how much power, etc) Anti-freeze: - Why do you need to premix anti-freeze and water before? (what difference does it make?) - How much anti-freeze do you put, with water? 50%? But Anti-freeze does not flow as well as water, and does not transfer heat as well, so less anti-freeze might be better? Is 30% alright in the winter? Pipe size: - Why do people recommend a 22mm pipe to the header tank, instead of a 28mm pipe which would make it easier for hot water to escape? - Is it better to have 28 to 15mm adapters on the rads, or to have 15mm pipes Tee-ing to the rads? The second options enables to have a tighter bend, which causes friction, but enables the radiators to be higher. Misc: - SmileyPete said this in an old post, and I don't understand the word "lagged" in this context, any idea? Here is the text: "a good way of doing it is to have an adequately sized gravity 'heat dump' rad(s) near or next to the stove, then more distant rads and/or calorifier on a pumped circuit connected by 15mm pipes, ideally lagged. That way the gravity rads can be shut off and all the heat directed to the furthest rad." ------------ I wrote this by reading, organizing and summing up all of the relevant information discussions threads that are mentioned in the Index of common topics on this forum, plus a few other sources of information on internet.

Hi All, The Questions: Do all 'seperate bottom draw stoves' start as strongly as a morso and are the cheaper ones harder to keep in? Has anyone else found the old model 'single door' Acorn Aarrow stoves a little slow to start/ have any tips? I've previously had some breathing difficulties with my stove lit through winter and had some really good suggestions on a previous post including burning the stove fast and hot which I must say, when I can manage it, helps immensely. Now my friend has what a lot of people regard as the best of the boat stoves, a morso-squirrel. I've noticed how fast and incredibly powerful the stove can get going with the bottom drawer open when lighting. My mate asked me to get his stove going for him whilst away one day and I had managed to get his going in about 25 minutes, a little longer for coal to take and then able to shut it down and kept it in for the day until he got back. I have the old Acorn Aarrow model and this always takes about an hour or two to really get super hot and i'm sure the slow burning start that the aarow seems to limp off to a start with doesn't help in contributing to my asthma. I know having really dry wood helps alot but as a live-aboard through a very wet winter sometimes this is quite a challenge, so really thinking about replacing my old arrow with one of these bottom draw stoves, any help really appreciated :-) Pete

Hi I want to purchase a Corner Bubble Stove like this... http://www.bubbleproducts.co.uk/info-(bubble-corner-oil.html Can anyone recommend a certified installer in the Milton Keynes or surrounding area? Many thanks Adam

Hi All. I am replacing my wonky Kabola Old English(Diesel) with a Boatman multi fuel stove (with a back boiler) and am not sure how mad to go with the hearth, insulation etc. Bearing in mind that the Kabola heat output is rated at 4kw and so is the Boatman I would have thought it a fairly straightforward swap out........! The Kabola was fitted on a quarry tiled hearth with ply under it (as i discovered upon removal), also the flue is single skinned and pases within a couple of mm of the roof ply (where the hole was cut). Also a wooden wall is only a couple of inches away from the flue hole and old flue. This is clearly unacceptable! The fire surround is about 4" from the rear corners of the new stove (it was slightly closer with the old stove). The fire surround walls seem to be 6mm fireboard on ply, tiled with small thickish tiles. I have been reluctent to destroy it to find out. As there has been no problems with the old stove catching fire to the boat and the dimensions of the Boatman being smaller (and with the back boiler, unlike the Kabola which had its water pipes in the top), I thought would add 2 or 3 layers of 9mm fireboard onto the ply base/hearth, possibly with an airgap. Fit a double skin flue through the roof, with the outer skin 50mm from combustables as recomended and angled towards the stove joining a single skin flue at an acceptable distance from the wall. I was hoping to leave the surround alone. I think the Kabola was installed back in 99 when the boat was built as the woodwork around is quite proffesionally done. Question- would leaving the old surround as is be bordering on insanity, or as it has been ok with the kabola so far would it be ok! Any other comments/advice would be gratefully recieved. If my woodworking skills and time were up to it I would be tempted to start over. Thanks

Hi all, my stove looks like this at the moment: http://imgur.com/a/oZk6q The flue needs to be replaced, and it also needs a new bit to connect the flue with the stove. What is that called? A flue collar? I'm talking about the thing in the photo that's split in two halves. Does anyone know if and where I could source this online? Are they all different for different stove brands? Thanks a lot for any hints!

Hi peeps! I'm hatching a plan to expand our current Squirrel-fed radiator system to also heat the calorifer. I have about zero plumbing knowledge... so the ideas below are all based on assumptions. I hope that by showing you the idea at this stage, I might not make hideous mistakes! I intend to use the newer 'push fit' pipes and fittings, as they're easier, not that much more expensive than copper, and the links to the calorifier already use them. I'd also like to have a solar collector as an option. As far as I can tell, the calorifier only has one coil (unless the other one is hidden beneath its insulation.) The drawing shows the boat as if it were just one continuous wall. I.e., port, stern, and starboard. This is because the calorifier is on the port side, and the burner/radiators are on the starboard side. I have to find a way to get the feed and return either around the back of the engine bay, or along the bulkhead dividing the bay and the living space, but beneath the doorway. The circles with crosses are taps - or three-way selectors, which I'm assuming exist. The bulkhead appears twice (port and starboard) The existing system has a bolan pump, but can also be used as a thermosyphoning system. I've sent the hot feed around the back of the boat, thinking that this might continue to operate (even though the cold return from the calorifier must travel uphill by about 100mm to rejoin the radiator system. An issue with this solution is that the pipe may loose too much heat to the hull / uninsulated engine bay. Another is: how do you mount pipes onto steel hulls! If thermosyphoning, or just running from one pump isn't an option, it might be more sensible to run the hot and cold feeds from the radiator system to the calorifier along the same route that the cold feed takes in this design- along the bulkhead (3d sketch might make more sense....) I suppose that's my main question at the moment. Is is a feasible idea? and, if so, should I run the pipes around the back of the boat (pictured), in a more gentle slope, or just go for the steep attack, use less pipe, but need a pump? The hot feed could be teed from the pipework just below the header tank instead. But would the single bolan (?) pump by the Squirrel be able to move the water that far? Assumptions. The original hot/cold pipes from the engine only have one shut off valve. It's my understanding that the pressure of the water in a circuit will prevent water from a different circuit from entering it when the tap is closed: water always follows the path of least resistance. For the solar circuit, there is a pump out there that will run on 12v, not consume insane amounts of power (though, on sunny days, our panel produces at least 8A), and be able to push the cold feed water to the roof. I require a separate header tank for the solar circuit, as it's higher than the current one. The solar circuit needs to be treated as a separate system, as if connected, pressure will release water from the lower header tank. Any help or suggestions on how this could be made better, or if it will even work, most appreciated!

Hello helpful folks, In preparation for the winter months ahead could someone advise the following? A small 12v pump to push the hot water from the stove along the 3 radiaters attached to the back boiler? It was responsive to a thermal dial that activated the pumo when it reached certain pre set temps. I think the one we had was quite old but is small and cylinderical. Any thoughts anyone on where I could one similar? Thanks

The "Stoves in Boats" guide is full of all kinds of useful numerical suggestions about dimensions for stove and hearth fitting, but baulks at the lip of the heart, suggesting a hearth should have a What does this mean? 5cm? 10cm? 15? Why don't the recommend a dimension? What size is yours? What would you recommend?

hi My stove has been kicking out loads of smoke whenever i open the door to put more wood and coal. I'm sure this didn't happen that much before. Recently the smoke has been even kicking back out through the top vent. Im sure the flu is not blocked as i have cleaned it out. any ideas why or how how to stop it? Thanks Rory

Hi all We are new to Canal World,and are currently at the planning stage of having a narrowbeam built.We would be very interested in comments from people who have experiance of the Heritage Compact cooker/heater.If possible some photos of your insatlations would be usefull too. Many Thanks Carl and Samantha

We're looking for a stove for New Boat. There are about a hundred million stoves out there. How on earth do you choose one? I want to burn wood and smokeless. This is to heat a cabin about 11 x 25ft. As I'm buying a lot of equipment for the fit-out I'm hesitant to drop upwards of £700 on a stove when a £300 one will do. That said, the design and quality of a stove is important and I will pay what I have to pay for a good machine. I'm quite taken with this design. It's a "Lapland 4kw Multi Fuel / Wood and Coal Burning Stove" http://www.greymetal.co.uk/multi-fuel-stoves/lappi-4kw-multi-fuel-wood-burning-stove-grey-soapstone.html Any recommendations one way or the other?

hi all can we use one of these on our NB safely? http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/mini-heater-hose-and-reg-p162735 we have a problem with the back of the boat never warming up, even when our stove makes most of the boat pretty toasty. we're thinking of getting some existing and currently redundant rads joined up to a combi boiler or webasto/eberspacher, but want something to keep the chill off our bedroom and bathroom in the meantime for short periods of time (maybe an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening). if something like this is no good could someone suggest an alternative?? cheers! mike

I'm looking to replace my stove, and have found one with the perfect heat output to room / boiler, but it has a 6" flue outlet. (We're heating a 63'x 12' widebeam with 3 radiators)Currently we have a 5" collar through the roof. Can I use a reducer between the stove and flue? There don't seem to be many chandlers offering collars with a 6" internal dimension, is there a reason for this? thanks.

Hi, another rookie question!!! I have a wood burner (so I'm told) which has cracks all around the collar where it joins the top of the stove. Also, last winter it started leaking rain in through the top of the flue pipe somewhere. So, I've just got round to sorting things out for this winter. How do I remove the flue pipe from the collar on the top of the stove, should it 'simply' pull up all be it with a bit of gentle persuasion? At the moment it's not budging.

Afternoon all, I am renting a narrowboat as a continuous cruiser. I'm aware that this is a controversial thing to do, however, I would like the benefit of your shared wisdom without any judgement as i have a question with regards to stove maintenance that has me stumped. Essentially, my stove hasn't been serviced since the landlord bought the boat 2.5 years ago, and he is digging his heels in about getting it sorted. As winter approaches, I am concerned about my safety, especially as it has been leaking water when it rains due to a faulty chimney and the seals connecting the pipe to the body of the stove and inside of the roof/chimney collar look old and a bit worn. Over the next week I will be replacing the glass, stove rope and chimney, however, should I be insistent over getting the stove serviced or will I be ok? To clarify, there are no visible holes, cracks or gaps on the body of the stove, though I can't see if this is the case where the pipe connects to the chimney collar. Thanks in advance for any advice. Cheers, Bob.

Hi all, I recently switched my boat around and removed a diesel stove and installed a conventional multi fuel stove, I honestly cant believe the difference!!! I intend to install a mini range in the cabin (a 2-3kw mini multi fuel), I have seen one which can have a backboiler fitted to it, I would like to connect this to the calorifier to heat up my water (as I already have existing pipe work and pump in line). The stove will be about 10-12foot in distance from the calorifier and will not heat any radiators en-route, my concern is that the water in the piping will wet too hot and start to vapourise as there will not be enough heat dispersing during the short travel time. Is this a warranted concern? My intent is to run the stove 30 mins to 1 hour per day in order to give me enough hot water for a shower and to do the dishes. Again, any help would be really appreciated! (stoves seem to be taking over my life at the moment) Thanks!!!!

Hi I'm having problems with the gravity feed to my diesel stove. It is currently fed from the main diesel tank at the stern whilst the stove is right at the front of the boat. I have thought about having the fuel 'polished' but this is quite expensive and I'm not convinced it would cure the problem. A more permanent solution would be to fit a small separate diesel tank somewhere in the well deck with a simple gravity feed. Something like a 40 litre tank would do as I doubt I'm getting through more than 30 litres per week. Has anyone done this either DIY or getting a bloke in? If so, can you provide some advice and potential costs please? I've found some tanks online that aren't too expensive, but it's the fitting I'm not sure of - especially in terms of the BSS implications. Many thanks Adam

Hi All, I am in the process of buying my first narrowboat, 46ft and it has a really rubbish wood burner that I would like to rip out and put in a new bubble diesel stove. The little 4kw corner one. What I am struggling with is approximate costs for retro fitting one. Has anybody done this and what were the rough costs involved. I know it's really dependant on the boat etc, but I I am mainly wondering how much to budget. Not including the stove are we talking £500? £1,000 £2,000 etc. I don't currently have a dedicated diesel tank, just the main one. Any help appreciated.

Hi everyone, Me and my partner have just moved on to our 57 x 10 wide beam and are having a slight nightmare keeping the boat warm! Where we are moored we're not allowed to use the multi fuel stove so that leaves us with either the 5kw Webasto or electric fan/ convection heaters. The Webasto heats the radiators and we've balanced them so that all get equally hot but there are only three and all are small so it does very little to actually keep the boat warm. The electric heaters do warm the boat up but over the long run I'm assuming the cost will be more than other heating options? We are permanently moored with 240v I think our options are 1) take the hit and use electric to keep it warm 2) buy a bigger webasto and presumably also bigger / more radiators or 3) install a diesel fuel stove? Although I'm not sure if this would be allowed either (I would need to check), the issue with the solid fuel stove is the smoke it creates, even smokeless coal Any suggestions about which option to go for? Or anything else we could do?

Hi all, I recently purchased a narrowboat and am now settling in to living aboard. There were a couple of things about my boat that appealed to me, one of the tipping points was the bubble corner diesel stove, it is back boiled and supplies heat to the back cabin through a radiator and also heats my hot water. Another thing that appealed to me was the "switch on and leave it" possibility as I work full time and that way I can keep the place warm whilst in out, especially at the moment. Anyway, i come home the other night and open the back door and the air is almost purple with fumes, a seal failed on the stove and allowed diesel to escape the burning pot and evaporate off the hot surface to the rear, the cabin was filled!!!!!!!! Dear lord, the fumes would have turned even the most hardened stomach! The alarms were all blazing, luckily I didn't switch a light on or i fear the air would have ignited. Of course I undertake the reccomended cleaning guidelines as per the bubble owners manual, but that doesn't anticipate failures of this magnitude. I have been on the phone to a guy who services these, its nearly £200 not including parts! This should be done yearly. Due to this i am now reconsidering the entire arrangement, as in 2.5 years I could buy a mid-low end multi fuel stove for the price of the servicing alone! Now that I'm actually living aboard Im also noticing issues with the arrangement I did not anticipate with my rose tinted glasses, I constantly burn my leg and hand on the piping for the backboiler as I walk through the boat. I think I just want to rip it all out. Im on a 57ft trad stern, the stove is located just inside the cratch doors and presently I find that the stove struggles to heat the rear cabin, there is no obstruction between the stove and the rear cabin, we wanted the air to flow through the walkway for most efficient heating. Am I correct in believing diesel stoves don't burn as hot as multifuel stoves? Im talking output not burn efficiency. To heat the space Im considering a 7kw multifuel stove (reminder Im on a 57ft boat), would this be sufficient? Even being next to the cratch doors? I know this is not an ideal location but Im trying to work with what I've got, I don't want to move it unless totally necessary. Off a "good fill" how long can one expect a coal fire to last? 8-9hrs? I am considering removing the backboiler system, relying upon immersion to heat my water whilst in the marina and the engine when out and about, do many have this arrangement? Also, I find that I'm using in excess of 40l of diesel in a week, equating to roughly £30, is there any saving on coal? Im sure you can guess this isn't my reason for wanting to switch, bit its nice to know. Thanks in advance! If you never get a response from me its because the diesel stove has finally finished the job!

Hi you lovely bunch! I'm designing a new galley for my boat and I was wondering if there is a safe distance between a gas cooker and a mutli-fuel stove I should consider? Should I aim to keep them as far away from each other as possible? Thanks in advance