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Hi everyone, I have just moved onto a canal boat and am looking to update my electrics and install some solar panels. I am a newbie so really appreciate any advice you can give. I have been attempting to do an electrical audit (using a template I found online) Firstly I wonder if someone could have a look over it and see if I have made any glaringly obvious mistakes?? I have done my best but I must admit I do find the electrics a little confusing !! I am continually cruising and my boat is 57x10 I am looking at installing: - 3x 260w or 305w solar panels (with the plan to add a fourth in the future) - 2x 40A MPPT controllers - Victron Multiplus Inverter/ Charger - A monitor of some kind recommendations apreciated! I will also have a Honda EU20i generator to top things up. The questions which I am struggling to find answers to online are... What is a good size battery bank to match this system? I have been told it's important not to go too big as it means lots of time spent trying to charge them up. Not to mention the expense. Is it a good idea to get a multiplus inverter and charger or a separate inverter and charger? I am thinking about purchasing a washer dryer which will need 2.1kw to run (not shown on audit) would it be acceptable / advisable to run this of my setup while the generator is running? So the batteries / inverter would only need to supply the extra bit of energy as the Honda is only rated at 1600w continuous. Is there any other major bit to the system I am missing. My understanding is Batteries / Inverter / Charger / MPPT Controllers / Solar Panels / System monitor. Do I need fuses or any other bits? Thanks in advace for your time. Look forward to hearing your opinions. (Please be gentle I am new and still figuring it all out) Martin just figured out how to attached the file hope that works ok : http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/boat.pdf

Hi there, I've got one of these (see pic below), but want to change it for something that can take more solar panels and is a bit more modern. We use it with a 60A alternator, and 1x 100w solar panel (although I think this regulator can only take up to 60w solar. We don't have a wind turbine. It only seems to produce a max of 14.1v when the engine's on (even after hours of cruising) and recently has been hitting 15.1v through the solar panel - which seems a bit high?! I'd like to replace it with a charger suitable for the alternator, and maybe solar as well. Do I need to get a separate charger for the alternator, then an MPPT charger for the solar panel (I also want to add either one or two 175w solar panel to make 275w or 375w in total). We have 3x 110ah leisure batteries and a starter battery, and a Sterling 1600W pure sine wave inverter that is yet to be hooked up.. Any advice, brands, models to watch out for etc, most welcome! Cheers, Alistair

Hello, Is it better to have multiple smaller solar panels, or a few larger panels? I'm looking at around 500watt and have the option of two 250watt semi-flexible panels or multiple 100watt semi-flexible panels. Cheers, Robbo

Hi all, I have 2 x Trojan T105 6v batteries producing 12v with a capacity of 225 amps. I also have a solar panel that is now actually becoming useful now the sun has come out to shine! What settings should I set it at? Bearing in mind the table listed by Trojan below: Daily Charge: 14.8 Float: 13.2 Equalize: 15.5 The settings on the solar controller are: Load On (Voltage): Presuming this is the "Daily Charge" setting? Load Off (Voltage): Presuming this is the "Float"? PV Off (Voltage): No idea what this is PV: Showing the current amps the solar panel is producing Thanks in advance!

Hi peeps! I'm hatching a plan to expand our current Squirrel-fed radiator system to also heat the calorifer. I have about zero plumbing knowledge... so the ideas below are all based on assumptions. I hope that by showing you the idea at this stage, I might not make hideous mistakes! I intend to use the newer 'push fit' pipes and fittings, as they're easier, not that much more expensive than copper, and the links to the calorifier already use them. I'd also like to have a solar collector as an option. As far as I can tell, the calorifier only has one coil (unless the other one is hidden beneath its insulation.) The drawing shows the boat as if it were just one continuous wall. I.e., port, stern, and starboard. This is because the calorifier is on the port side, and the burner/radiators are on the starboard side. I have to find a way to get the feed and return either around the back of the engine bay, or along the bulkhead dividing the bay and the living space, but beneath the doorway. The circles with crosses are taps - or three-way selectors, which I'm assuming exist. The bulkhead appears twice (port and starboard) The existing system has a bolan pump, but can also be used as a thermosyphoning system. I've sent the hot feed around the back of the boat, thinking that this might continue to operate (even though the cold return from the calorifier must travel uphill by about 100mm to rejoin the radiator system. An issue with this solution is that the pipe may loose too much heat to the hull / uninsulated engine bay. Another is: how do you mount pipes onto steel hulls! If thermosyphoning, or just running from one pump isn't an option, it might be more sensible to run the hot and cold feeds from the radiator system to the calorifier along the same route that the cold feed takes in this design- along the bulkhead (3d sketch might make more sense....) I suppose that's my main question at the moment. Is is a feasible idea? and, if so, should I run the pipes around the back of the boat (pictured), in a more gentle slope, or just go for the steep attack, use less pipe, but need a pump? The hot feed could be teed from the pipework just below the header tank instead. But would the single bolan (?) pump by the Squirrel be able to move the water that far? Assumptions. The original hot/cold pipes from the engine only have one shut off valve. It's my understanding that the pressure of the water in a circuit will prevent water from a different circuit from entering it when the tap is closed: water always follows the path of least resistance. For the solar circuit, there is a pump out there that will run on 12v, not consume insane amounts of power (though, on sunny days, our panel produces at least 8A), and be able to push the cold feed water to the roof. I require a separate header tank for the solar circuit, as it's higher than the current one. The solar circuit needs to be treated as a separate system, as if connected, pressure will release water from the lower header tank. Any help or suggestions on how this could be made better, or if it will even work, most appreciated!

Hello folks - I'm 'noodling out 'what I need for a change from living as a ccer on my own to a ccer with a boat that will have up to 4 people (1 baby) and one 10 year old part time. - I'm getting my 45ft boat extended to 58ft. My 3 way fridge has come to the end of its life A washing machine would be good I'm not familiar with the maths I need to do to work out what my system can cope with and accordingly what else I need What I have 3 80 watt solar panels 3 105ah leisure batteries A small alternator (I cant remember its output, its for a 3 pot sole diesel, I just remember someone who saw the boat commenting that it didn't have a great output) A small inverter (too small) I have LED lights, a pump for the radiator, gas cooker, obvs water pump for shower, occasionally watch a film on an LED TV, and a laptop. My MPPT controller can have 1 more solar panel at 80watts I think I can make room for 1 more leisure battery. A generator and compressor fridge is too expensive. So what Id like to be possible - is a conventional in house sized fridge & washing machine, new energy efficient. A new Inverter (2kw big enough?) - If required a 4th leisure battery and solar panel. Is there an idiots guide to working this stuff out, so I can really sus what I need/what's possible? Thanks Martin

Hello Bonus is in and it gives me just enough to install some solar on the roof. Based on my usage needs I can do with pretty much all I can get . Although I'm all low power & LED I do have a few luxuries that it would be good to power with solar when/where possible and off grid (Currently on hook up but don't see that as necessarily lasting forever) I've started coming up with a plan to help me identify what I don't know. My first pass is below and I have already identified a few questions that I need to answer. I've spent a little time reading up on the forums and have experience of building a small set up a long time ago (To power a caravan) but definitely need to get myself educated on the subject. What are your thoughts on game plan below? Are you able to point me in the right direction with any of the questions I have identified thus far? 1. Design top boxes - Come up with a design for ‘sloped’ wooden top boxes with solar panels embedded in the top (to match lines of existing DB style dog box) 2. Map out roof and all fixed location extrusions - Including ‘to be’ pump out location (Another DIY task) 3. Identify optimum solar panels and box design that matches both electrical and aesthetic requirements (See a bit of back and forth comparing panel characteristics/sizes and lumps on the roof before settling on something) - Q: Any ideas on how to mount centre lines to roof with sufficient strength on port and starboard side? I have spray foam insulation and design that makes removal of internal roofing a PITA so anything that gets around both would be great! - Q: Does anybody have a top box with solar panels that also had a mushroom vent underneath? Does the temperature under the panels cause any issues with circulation? (Assuming not?) - Q: Any recommendations on good places to read up on different panel types and how to select right ones for needs and how to match to MPPT controller and installation design (Thinking max voltage considerations vs temperature etc.) 4. Identify optimum wiring of the panels to MPPT - I’m going to be using MPPT. Don’t yet know whether I will be wiring panels in series/parallel etc. or single vs multiple controller - TBD Q: Does having panels pointing in different directions (Like the doors on a dog box) create additional wiring considerations? 5. Identify optimum wiring of the MPPT to batteries - I’ve got a Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120. - In scenario where plugged in to mains I’d like solar to take priority and charger only to kick in if batteries discharging because solar not providing sufficient charge. - Q: Is that possible? - Q: If not, what’s the forums view on second best option (Looking for automatic rather than relying on me to check voltage, switch on/off chargers etc 6. Buy the stuff and build Apologies, looking back that is a lot of questions. Hopefully others have got or will have similar questions so this isn't all about me!

Hi people. I've got a boat with a Mastervolt Combi unit fitted. (12/2500-10). OK, very nice (in a technologically frightening way) with two other boxes in the digtal line i.e. a mastershunt 500 and a thingy called a digital DC 10x 10A. All I can say about them is the green LED's flash occasionally and it all looks very "butch". It scares the heck out of me does all that technology. Load wise, the only thing running 24/7 is my fridge which pulls 6.3 amps occasionally when the fan is turning. The rest of the boat is now all low power LED. What I want to do is to equip for constant cruising and thus am thinking I've got a nice big roof, and there is enough space for 4 x 100w 12v solar panels running through a MPPT controller. Not a problem except can you combine (parallel) the two? That's the free solar power and the all singing grey box with the Master Volt label? So far emails to MasterVolt are going unanswered thus this question. Which either means they don't want me to or I've been spammed into the WPB. And across to you.

I'm planning on mounting a couple of solar panels on roof boxes, and while im familiar with the common 45 degree tilting mounts, i've been thinking about the possibility of mounting panels using widely available tv wall mounts. Does anyone have any experience with these? the main (possible) benefits I can see are that 1. These mounts are cheaply and widely available 2. They enable panning and tiltling 3. panels can be easily raised and tilted, and then lowered back down for cruising. 4. Many mounts include cable routing. the main issues i can see are 1. These are designed to be used horizontally not vertically, and so might not hold a panel up without some kind of prop to prevent it collapsing 2. During high winds additional attachment may be required 3. Additional bracketing on the back of the panel may be required to fit the two together 4. Indoor wall mounts probably aren't very weather proof. just wanted to see what people think before i consider giving it a go. these are what i'm talking about: http://www.amazon.co.uk/VonHaus-Designer-Habitat-Cantilever-Bracket/dp/B00DQT8XBA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0JC8063ZNQ04HPD23TKS there are loads of different designs available.

Finally got all my solar panels (2 x 100w), controller (Tracer MPPT 30A), cables, connectors and such together in one place and installed. Looks to be working fine! I've had fun gazing at and flicking through the remote meter for the Tracer controller, but find the user booklet doesn't really explain everything well. Lost in translation ... or is it me? I know a few of you use these, so a couple of questions: 1) What does the 'battery capacity percentage' function actually show? Mine started out at about 70% when I first started the system up, but it quickly seemed to settle at 52% last night ... despite the batteries apparently being fully charged. 2) Timer 1 Mode: What are people setting this at? 'n' (disabled); '0' (Dusk to Dawn, Load will be on all night); 16 (Test mode -- not sure what this is); 17 (ON/OFF mode); or leaving it on overnight by selecting a number of hours after dusk? 3) Load Terminals -- on the Controller itself: I understand this to be a sort of 12v 'feed'. Is this just a handy way of tapping into the batteries? For example, is this a good place to run a 12v cigarette lighter socket from (with a fused positive lead)? Thanks for any insights.

Hello! Yes I know there have been endless posts and topics about this, and I've gone through a lot of them. I thought I was convinced I was going to build a pair of 125W panels into a top box near the bow, but then I found these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111315145099?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Somebody talk me out of them please! Thanks!!!

Hi everyone, Can anyone recommend a good, well-designed ventilation fan for a bathroom that works both on solar and battery back up? Are solar fans powerful enough, do you think? Or would it be better to get a fan that connects to the 12v system? If so, any suggestions for this also? Thanks, everyone, for your advice. Alan

Hi all battery afficionados I am about to take new batteries down to the boat and do the change over. I have searched the forum and found some interesting things I did not know before. Now I would like some clarification. The old set up (six batteries 110Ah) was always a bit higgeldy piggeldy as we couldn't fit all the ends onto the terminals. When I had to buy new batteries at short notice we basically had to do the same again so Set 2 comprises 5 leisure batteries 115Ah I will label them A to E. Positive side Battery A currently has solar cable and one from the Isolator Switch and link to battery B Battery B has two links A and C Battery C has link to B and D as well as smartgauge Battery D has link to C and E as well as one to the Isolator Switch Battery E has link to D Negative side Battery E has link to D and one to Victron and one to the Mikuni Battery D has links to E and C and one to the smartgauge Battery C has links to B and D and one to the solar panels Battery B has links to A and C and one to Victron Battery A has link to B and one off to the Starter Battery Now the 4 new batteries 160Ah have a M8 bolt type fitting so no need for the terminal clamps as used previously so we hope that it will be easier to fit more cables to a single post. The proposed layout is going to be Positive side Battery A has both the Isolator cables and the link to B Battery B has link A and C Battery C has link to B and D Battery D has Link from C and solar and Mikuni and smartgauge (ie 4 one large and three small) Negative side Battery D has link to C and both large cables to Victron Battery C has links to D and B Battery B has links to A and C Battery A has link from B then the large one to Starter battery and the negatives to Solar Mikuni and smartgauge. I am reasonably happy with this BUT which order should I pile the cable ends for best connection (thinking smartguage here) (My reasoning for putting both Isolator switch connections to one and both Victron to the other is I am not 100% sure why there are two or if this is immaterial or not and if material and I put them the wrong way around it could mean that they are not going to pass through the whole bank. If you get my drift.) I have printed off the smartgauge info linked to in a previous post about how to correctly interconnect multiple batteries but a) this doesn't address the issue of all the other items connected to the bank. I have basically assumed that by having the charger going one way and the solar and everything else going the other way around that that is okay. Otherwise Everything would have to go onto two diagonally opposite terminals and b ) we don't have enough extra cabling to do the fancy Methods 3 or 4. Battery etc.pdf Schematic, what I drew, of current set up since oct 14.pdf

Just thinking about how best to bring my solar cabling into the boat - I've seen it going into mushroom vents but I'm doubtful I'll be able to run it inside the roof space without taking half the ceiling down - it's a few metres. So I looked for waterproof junction boxes and found some for solar panels - with diodes already inside. That set me a thinking regarding blocking diodes and whether I need them! So, before I order the cheapest little plastic box with a grommeted hole, perhaps I could ask what others have used and whether diodes are necessary! ta

Hi All, I am getting mixed messages regarding solar panels not connected to a drain (i.e. a source to dump power ) is there any body here that can shed light ? I discovered my panels got disconnected ? Not sure how or why, my question is are my panels no good now ? I have heard rumours that if a solar panel is not connected then they will be no good after. I am struggling to find any thing to back this up via the web, any body have personal experience ? I found out yesterday PM, removed panels and stored in boat, ordered an new pre terminated cable. Just hoping panels are not screwed.

Hi. I'm buying a boat (survey dependent) in Chester - currently moored near Tattenhall Marina. I'm based in the south and don't have contacts in the area. If there are some names you're happy to recommend, I'd be grateful. I'm also looking to have some solar panels fitted (with controller) and a security bar fixed across a bow door (steel doors, wood lined in inside and painted on outside). Again very grateful for any recomendations. Thanks all!

Just a quick headsup: Most 'MPPT' in this price range are in fact PWM, but this solar controller checks out as a genuine MPPT: Youtube linky: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05IcvuI7kJ8 Charge voltage is fixed at 14.7V which may be a little high for some, though not high enough to properly charge or equalise traction batts, but will give them more than a tickle. Max solar input is 50V. Found a couple of links for these on Ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MPPT-Solar-Charger-Controller-12V-24VDC-10A-20A-Battery-Regulator-USB-5V-Output-/142188324794 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5A-10A-12V-24V-MPPT-Solar-Panel-Regulator-Charge-Controller-100V-Input-DC-USB-JS-/181861868553 Not as good as the latest Tracers and may be not as reliable, but possibly a good budget option for a small setup.

Hi all. I purchased a 2nd boat which came with 4 solar panels (unconnected) , with the following specs (see image). Do you know what controller I should buy to connect them to 12V batteries ? Many Thanks.

Hey so I have recently got myself a boat which is a norman 27 fibreglass boat. I am currently pondering how I am going to install solar panels onto this boat, I have heard that the best way is to drill them on but I dont really want to do that as I have heard fibreglass is fragile. These panels are big (1.6M X 1M) so the only 2 places for them are the front cabin roof and the back cabin roof. So is there any alternative way to get the panels onto the boat roof, I was thinking maybe there is some super strong industrial glue or even some sort of metal wire rope that anchors it at 4 points. I have no clue how I am going to do this so open to any suggestions. Here is the panels I have bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282164412810 2X 250w Thanks Tara

Hi All, We have a fairly simple solar controller set up; Victron Energy Blue Solar PWM 20a 12-24v Dual Battery solar controller which doesn't offer much in the way of solar management, display etc. The control panel for this is more or less the same price as the controller itself. Ideally i would like to up grade the controller system to allow for a better visual and more efficient use of my solar. Can anyone recommend a good controller system that could be put in place of the Solar dual?

Hi all, We currently have 3 x 125ah leisure batteries powering the fridge, lighting (mostly LED) and water/waste pumps. The bank is charged by a single solar panel through an EPSolar MPPT charge controller. This was fine during the summer but with winter fast approaching we are finding that come the morning there isn't enough juice to power the pumps for a shower. We are mostly marina based so would like to add in a mains charger to top up the batteries once night falls. Electricity is metered so would only want to charge from shore power when necessary. Currently we achieve this by attaching a car battery charger using crocodile clips - it works but isn't a viable long term solution. The charger only has trickle or fast charge and is manually selected. I was also a little wary that I might be sending current to the solar panel instead of away from it, but it hasn't blown up yet So, my questions are: Is there such a device available that I can connect both the solar and a 240V charger to and it automatically selects which input to charge the batteries with, prioritising the solar? Maybe even with automatic health programming to allow the batteries to discharge periodically to keep them healthy? Failing that, if I just get a decent 240V charger that automatically switches charge mode, will there be any problems permanently connecting that directly to the batteries in addition to the solar, and just turn it on when required? Or should I connect them via, say, a rocker switch to manually change from solar charging or 240V charging? What fuses would be required? Can someone recommend a decent multistage 240V charger? I'm sure I'll think of something else as soon as I've posted this, but it will do for starters :-) Thanks in advance.

I will be fitting a new solar panel soon. I only need 100w, to keep my batteries topped up. Just for the pumps and lights. The advantages of a mppt controller are well established, but is it really necessary for a simple set up like this? I am thinking of the difference between a 10a Tracer at £63 from Bimble or their 10a PWM controller at £8.42

Just starting to think about solar as otherwise I'll be missing out on "free" power this summer. Looks like I'll want an mppt type controller and a fairly hefty one at that. 60a Victron coming in at best part of £300, other much cheaper options available so I'm after your thoughts and suggestions, please. It may be that I'll be wanting to start of with one solar panel due to budget constraints and add them as I go - hopefully ending up with several 100/150w panels, or maybe more. That's if I can ever decide between flexi's and rigids. But the ability to just add on more panels would be good. I heard there is a thing called a combiner also? Or do some mppts do that too? Am I correct in thinking that you can have more power (in terms of panels) than the mppt can use, so it just goes to waste rather than damages anything? As I'm thinking that the main advantage of having lots of panels would be not so much peak output under ideal conditions, but to still get something worthwhile out of them at other times. thanks

This has just come up on Facebook looking for money to fit solar panels https://www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/pillingslocksolar?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=Yimbyprojectpage&utm_content=pillingslocksolar&utm_campaign=projectpage-share-owner&utm_term=ZWz4ZzmpP

We have decided to get solar panels fitted as we plan to do more cruising now John isn't working. At the same time we'd like a Smartgauge (or similar) and it's also time for new batteries as ours are dying. We would rather get someone in to advise on options/capacity etc for solar and other electrical stuff, and do the fitting, than do it ourselves. Does the forum have recommendations for suitable suppliers who serve Birmingham? Looking for value for money and easy to work with rather than the dirt cheapest. Many thanks!