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We are planning to have a gap year cruising around the canal network in a couple of years time, we have both finished our careers and will be moving to the coast after a few adventures, we have just one more child to see off to Uni. That planning stage is now to the point of adding solar panels to the roof, I have made a few selections based of months of research and asking questions and I have started documenting the plan on the blog, at the moment we have looked at size and positioning https://floydtilla.co.uk/2023/03/13/planning-for-solar-panels-part-1/ Then how to mount them https://floydtilla.co.uk/2023/03/25/planning-for-solar-panels-part-2-panel-mounting-options/ then types of panels https://floydtilla.co.uk/2023/04/02/planning-for-solar-panels-part-3-types-of-panels/ There will be more to come over the next few months while we sort out all the other parts, but I am open to idea/options as we plan this install, please let me know what you think, what tricks I have missed that should be included. Thanks David

Hey guys, I've got an issue with my solar system. At the moment, I can leave my solar panel charging for 2 days, even with sun, and it won't go over about 70%. Even that will only last 2 hours watching tv or running 1 laptop. I'm now not sure if I got a controller that's too cheap (eBay job), if I don't have enough batteries, (2 x 110amp leisure batteries with 2 more on standby), or whether the panel isn't powerful enough (Highly doubtful) Maybe I might have not set up the controller properly such as setting the cut off voltage etc but I'm not sure what the settings should be. A (poorly drawn) diagram of my setup: If anyone has any advice on what I can try, I would be eternally grateful.

Hi all, I have 2 x Trojan T105 6v batteries producing 12v with a capacity of 225 amps. I also have a solar panel that is now actually becoming useful now the sun has come out to shine! What settings should I set it at? Bearing in mind the table listed by Trojan below: Daily Charge: 14.8 Float: 13.2 Equalize: 15.5 The settings on the solar controller are: Load On (Voltage): Presuming this is the "Daily Charge" setting? Load Off (Voltage): Presuming this is the "Float"? PV Off (Voltage): No idea what this is PV: Showing the current amps the solar panel is producing Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I have just moved onto a canal boat and am looking to update my electrics and install some solar panels. I am a newbie so really appreciate any advice you can give. I have been attempting to do an electrical audit (using a template I found online) Firstly I wonder if someone could have a look over it and see if I have made any glaringly obvious mistakes?? I have done my best but I must admit I do find the electrics a little confusing !! I am continually cruising and my boat is 57x10 I am looking at installing: - 3x 260w or 305w solar panels (with the plan to add a fourth in the future) - 2x 40A MPPT controllers - Victron Multiplus Inverter/ Charger - A monitor of some kind recommendations apreciated! I will also have a Honda EU20i generator to top things up. The questions which I am struggling to find answers to online are... What is a good size battery bank to match this system? I have been told it's important not to go too big as it means lots of time spent trying to charge them up. Not to mention the expense. Is it a good idea to get a multiplus inverter and charger or a separate inverter and charger? I am thinking about purchasing a washer dryer which will need 2.1kw to run (not shown on audit) would it be acceptable / advisable to run this of my setup while the generator is running? So the batteries / inverter would only need to supply the extra bit of energy as the Honda is only rated at 1600w continuous. Is there any other major bit to the system I am missing. My understanding is Batteries / Inverter / Charger / MPPT Controllers / Solar Panels / System monitor. Do I need fuses or any other bits? Thanks in advace for your time. Look forward to hearing your opinions. (Please be gentle I am new and still figuring it all out) Martin just figured out how to attached the file hope that works ok : http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/boat.pdf

Hi there, I've got one of these (see pic below), but want to change it for something that can take more solar panels and is a bit more modern. We use it with a 60A alternator, and 1x 100w solar panel (although I think this regulator can only take up to 60w solar. We don't have a wind turbine. It only seems to produce a max of 14.1v when the engine's on (even after hours of cruising) and recently has been hitting 15.1v through the solar panel - which seems a bit high?! I'd like to replace it with a charger suitable for the alternator, and maybe solar as well. Do I need to get a separate charger for the alternator, then an MPPT charger for the solar panel (I also want to add either one or two 175w solar panel to make 275w or 375w in total). We have 3x 110ah leisure batteries and a starter battery, and a Sterling 1600W pure sine wave inverter that is yet to be hooked up.. Any advice, brands, models to watch out for etc, most welcome! Cheers, Alistair

Hello, Is it better to have multiple smaller solar panels, or a few larger panels? I'm looking at around 500watt and have the option of two 250watt semi-flexible panels or multiple 100watt semi-flexible panels. Cheers, Robbo

well I have mounted my panels and the suns out ( of sorts ) and leccy is flowing through the MPPT controller to the batteries . I am getting between 3 and 7 Amps in the current weather which seems ok ( I have 330 watts of panels ) . I am on shoreline so the solar is really just topping up the batteries in float mode with the main 12v drain being shoreline Fridge and Freezer , Toilet , extractor fan in mornings and the odd LCD light . What I am being a bit thick about is what does 3-7 amps mean how many amp hours does this equate to in battery top up terms ie if I get a sold 5 amps average for 5 hours is that 25 Amp hours into a battery bank of 4 x 135 Ah batteries is that a little or alot and how much money will that save me in shoreline power if I paying 10.5 p a unit or am I over analysing things and being a thicky I guess the panels will be more use when cruising this weekend but how much power am I getting and will it run the fridge and freezer or just help a bit ? I am guessing in high summer I will get about double this any how sorry for the ramble

Hi peeps! I'm hatching a plan to expand our current Squirrel-fed radiator system to also heat the calorifer. I have about zero plumbing knowledge... so the ideas below are all based on assumptions. I hope that by showing you the idea at this stage, I might not make hideous mistakes! I intend to use the newer 'push fit' pipes and fittings, as they're easier, not that much more expensive than copper, and the links to the calorifier already use them. I'd also like to have a solar collector as an option. As far as I can tell, the calorifier only has one coil (unless the other one is hidden beneath its insulation.) The drawing shows the boat as if it were just one continuous wall. I.e., port, stern, and starboard. This is because the calorifier is on the port side, and the burner/radiators are on the starboard side. I have to find a way to get the feed and return either around the back of the engine bay, or along the bulkhead dividing the bay and the living space, but beneath the doorway. The circles with crosses are taps - or three-way selectors, which I'm assuming exist. The bulkhead appears twice (port and starboard) The existing system has a bolan pump, but can also be used as a thermosyphoning system. I've sent the hot feed around the back of the boat, thinking that this might continue to operate (even though the cold return from the calorifier must travel uphill by about 100mm to rejoin the radiator system. An issue with this solution is that the pipe may loose too much heat to the hull / uninsulated engine bay. Another is: how do you mount pipes onto steel hulls! If thermosyphoning, or just running from one pump isn't an option, it might be more sensible to run the hot and cold feeds from the radiator system to the calorifier along the same route that the cold feed takes in this design- along the bulkhead (3d sketch might make more sense....) I suppose that's my main question at the moment. Is is a feasible idea? and, if so, should I run the pipes around the back of the boat (pictured), in a more gentle slope, or just go for the steep attack, use less pipe, but need a pump? The hot feed could be teed from the pipework just below the header tank instead. But would the single bolan (?) pump by the Squirrel be able to move the water that far? Assumptions. The original hot/cold pipes from the engine only have one shut off valve. It's my understanding that the pressure of the water in a circuit will prevent water from a different circuit from entering it when the tap is closed: water always follows the path of least resistance. For the solar circuit, there is a pump out there that will run on 12v, not consume insane amounts of power (though, on sunny days, our panel produces at least 8A), and be able to push the cold feed water to the roof. I require a separate header tank for the solar circuit, as it's higher than the current one. The solar circuit needs to be treated as a separate system, as if connected, pressure will release water from the lower header tank. Any help or suggestions on how this could be made better, or if it will even work, most appreciated!

Hello folks - I'm 'noodling out 'what I need for a change from living as a ccer on my own to a ccer with a boat that will have up to 4 people (1 baby) and one 10 year old part time. - I'm getting my 45ft boat extended to 58ft. My 3 way fridge has come to the end of its life A washing machine would be good I'm not familiar with the maths I need to do to work out what my system can cope with and accordingly what else I need What I have 3 80 watt solar panels 3 105ah leisure batteries A small alternator (I cant remember its output, its for a 3 pot sole diesel, I just remember someone who saw the boat commenting that it didn't have a great output) A small inverter (too small) I have LED lights, a pump for the radiator, gas cooker, obvs water pump for shower, occasionally watch a film on an LED TV, and a laptop. My MPPT controller can have 1 more solar panel at 80watts I think I can make room for 1 more leisure battery. A generator and compressor fridge is too expensive. So what Id like to be possible - is a conventional in house sized fridge & washing machine, new energy efficient. A new Inverter (2kw big enough?) - If required a 4th leisure battery and solar panel. Is there an idiots guide to working this stuff out, so I can really sus what I need/what's possible? Thanks Martin

i as wondering if anybody could help me with the following problem: When i've been if charging the batteries using the engine e.g. after cruising or in neutral the solar charger more often than not will not start charging again even if the batteries have been partly run down again unless after a normal night cycle (e.g. in the morning) or i reset the controller. i can understand after a long cruise it may not start charging immediately, but it doesn't if the battery monitor reads 12.3v. i have a tracer 30A MPPT controller, 390W panels and 675aH Gel Batteries. Anybody any ideas?. Thanks

Hi people. I've got a boat with a Mastervolt Combi unit fitted. (12/2500-10). OK, very nice (in a technologically frightening way) with two other boxes in the digtal line i.e. a mastershunt 500 and a thingy called a digital DC 10x 10A. All I can say about them is the green LED's flash occasionally and it all looks very "butch". It scares the heck out of me does all that technology. Load wise, the only thing running 24/7 is my fridge which pulls 6.3 amps occasionally when the fan is turning. The rest of the boat is now all low power LED. What I want to do is to equip for constant cruising and thus am thinking I've got a nice big roof, and there is enough space for 4 x 100w 12v solar panels running through a MPPT controller. Not a problem except can you combine (parallel) the two? That's the free solar power and the all singing grey box with the Master Volt label? So far emails to MasterVolt are going unanswered thus this question. Which either means they don't want me to or I've been spammed into the WPB. And across to you.

Hello Bonus is in and it gives me just enough to install some solar on the roof. Based on my usage needs I can do with pretty much all I can get . Although I'm all low power & LED I do have a few luxuries that it would be good to power with solar when/where possible and off grid (Currently on hook up but don't see that as necessarily lasting forever) I've started coming up with a plan to help me identify what I don't know. My first pass is below and I have already identified a few questions that I need to answer. I've spent a little time reading up on the forums and have experience of building a small set up a long time ago (To power a caravan) but definitely need to get myself educated on the subject. What are your thoughts on game plan below? Are you able to point me in the right direction with any of the questions I have identified thus far? 1. Design top boxes - Come up with a design for ‘sloped’ wooden top boxes with solar panels embedded in the top (to match lines of existing DB style dog box) 2. Map out roof and all fixed location extrusions - Including ‘to be’ pump out location (Another DIY task) 3. Identify optimum solar panels and box design that matches both electrical and aesthetic requirements (See a bit of back and forth comparing panel characteristics/sizes and lumps on the roof before settling on something) - Q: Any ideas on how to mount centre lines to roof with sufficient strength on port and starboard side? I have spray foam insulation and design that makes removal of internal roofing a PITA so anything that gets around both would be great! - Q: Does anybody have a top box with solar panels that also had a mushroom vent underneath? Does the temperature under the panels cause any issues with circulation? (Assuming not?) - Q: Any recommendations on good places to read up on different panel types and how to select right ones for needs and how to match to MPPT controller and installation design (Thinking max voltage considerations vs temperature etc.) 4. Identify optimum wiring of the panels to MPPT - I’m going to be using MPPT. Don’t yet know whether I will be wiring panels in series/parallel etc. or single vs multiple controller - TBD Q: Does having panels pointing in different directions (Like the doors on a dog box) create additional wiring considerations? 5. Identify optimum wiring of the MPPT to batteries - I’ve got a Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120. - In scenario where plugged in to mains I’d like solar to take priority and charger only to kick in if batteries discharging because solar not providing sufficient charge. - Q: Is that possible? - Q: If not, what’s the forums view on second best option (Looking for automatic rather than relying on me to check voltage, switch on/off chargers etc 6. Buy the stuff and build Apologies, looking back that is a lot of questions. Hopefully others have got or will have similar questions so this isn't all about me!

We have installed 500W of solar (with another 250W panel to be fitted). We have an MPPT charge controller (MorningStar TS-60) and these sunny days, it takes no time to fill our batteries, especially as our fridge is out of action. I'm wondering if there's a straightforward (inexpensive) way to divert the excess power to our immersion heater to heat the water tank? I think it's a 1kw immersion heater. We have a 1kw inverter also. I guess a more low powered immersion heater would be needed?

I'm planning on mounting a couple of solar panels on roof boxes, and while im familiar with the common 45 degree tilting mounts, i've been thinking about the possibility of mounting panels using widely available tv wall mounts. Does anyone have any experience with these? the main (possible) benefits I can see are that 1. These mounts are cheaply and widely available 2. They enable panning and tiltling 3. panels can be easily raised and tilted, and then lowered back down for cruising. 4. Many mounts include cable routing. the main issues i can see are 1. These are designed to be used horizontally not vertically, and so might not hold a panel up without some kind of prop to prevent it collapsing 2. During high winds additional attachment may be required 3. Additional bracketing on the back of the panel may be required to fit the two together 4. Indoor wall mounts probably aren't very weather proof. just wanted to see what people think before i consider giving it a go. these are what i'm talking about: http://www.amazon.co.uk/VonHaus-Designer-Habitat-Cantilever-Bracket/dp/B00DQT8XBA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0JC8063ZNQ04HPD23TKS there are loads of different designs available.

Finally got all my solar panels (2 x 100w), controller (Tracer MPPT 30A), cables, connectors and such together in one place and installed. Looks to be working fine! I've had fun gazing at and flicking through the remote meter for the Tracer controller, but find the user booklet doesn't really explain everything well. Lost in translation ... or is it me? I know a few of you use these, so a couple of questions: 1) What does the 'battery capacity percentage' function actually show? Mine started out at about 70% when I first started the system up, but it quickly seemed to settle at 52% last night ... despite the batteries apparently being fully charged. 2) Timer 1 Mode: What are people setting this at? 'n' (disabled); '0' (Dusk to Dawn, Load will be on all night); 16 (Test mode -- not sure what this is); 17 (ON/OFF mode); or leaving it on overnight by selecting a number of hours after dusk? 3) Load Terminals -- on the Controller itself: I understand this to be a sort of 12v 'feed'. Is this just a handy way of tapping into the batteries? For example, is this a good place to run a 12v cigarette lighter socket from (with a fused positive lead)? Thanks for any insights.

Hi all! I have a 240V/16A (shore power) coming into the boat. It goes through a Victron unit which controls the 3 leisure batteries (wired positive to positive) and 1 starter battery. I'm thinking of adding a solar panel to the boat. Normally, I would put the solar panel to the controller then to the first leisure battery. Would this confuse the Victron, or is that the done thing with Victron units? Thanks!

i had a 100W flexible fixed panel that got water damage after 3 years. and want to replace it. i would like a 50-100% increase in battery charge. i do a 6-8 week cruise in the summer and occasional long weekend cruises between April and October (Inclusive). initially i thought of getting a slightly larger panel with tilting mounting, but I'm beginning to think 2 fixed panels would do the same for a similar cost. i stuck my original panel which seemed good but water got under it and eventually all the paint became a soggy mess and the panel failed. I'm not keen on drilling & screwing to the roof as water might get through, so thinking of magnets. and I'm wondering about whether to have them connected serially or in parallel. parallel seems better for summer and serial for winter. and i want to avoid too many connections and keep it simple. i would welcome suggestions on the best panels and mounting systems and connections.

Hi all, Another post about solar! I've got my set up sorted I think (2 x 290W panels, all the other stuff..) but I could do with some advice on the solarboxes I'm planning on building myself. I After much reading and looking at other boats, I've got a design I think will work and fit my boat. Boxes: Made from decking as is often the case, with oak supports inside. No hinges, the legs from the lid will support the panel when it's propped open to get more sun. Should allow opening on the log or short side. A chain will be secured into the panel and into the base, stopping anyone lifting it off (hopefully). Box 1: Sits ahead of my centre line (well clear, shouldn't be an issue with the rope). Offset to starboard to allow passage along the roof. Clear of mushroom vents. Box 2: Sets above the rear cabin, partially covering the open hatch, with space before the pigeon box (see picture). Slightly offset to starboard again, but less room here. Hopefully enough space around sides to accommodate centre lines. I'm just looking for any advice on this, as it'll be my first time building these. If I've made a rookie error, or if there is something you think would really help please let me know! Again, sorry for another solar post, hopefully this one will be useful to future boaters planning on building their own boxes.

I tried doing a CCTV thing before using an old mobile phone (for wifi) and a USB camera, but that (I think) knackered my battery and had other problems. Anyway, this is version 2.0 using a solar powered Reolink 4G camera: It comes with a Vodafone 4G SIM card (£4/mth unlimited data). You register it using an app then pop it into the camera. Voila! You're online. You then install the Reolink app. Link the app to the camera and you're good to go. TALK - let's you send audio from your phone to the camera. Such as to frighten the bejeezus out of people PTZ - is to rotate the camera up/down and left/right PLAYBACK - to view footage. Footage is saved to the supplied SD card PIR - let's you set an alert if something moves QUALITY - let's you adjust the record (HD) quality and the 4G view (low) quality. Full screen (low 4G quality). Full screen with PTZ. Just fitted this. So we'll see how it goes. At least this set up can't kill my leisure battery. ? I got mine from Amazon.co.uk (~£230). Search for: 'Reolink 3G/4G LTE Pan Tilt Solar Security Camera' (Don't want to post a link in case it's against site policy and all that jazz)

Hi there, I’m wondering if someone can help me. I’ve just installed 2 solar panels (in series) and they don’t seem to be charging my batteries. 2 x 320w panels (mono crystalline) 1 x 60A outback MPPT charge controller 4 x 6v Trojan t-125 240AH batteries in series and parralell connection giving 480AH in total. Ive checked all the connections. Seems fine. Battery monitor is saying the voltage from the charger is what the batteries are at. However the perctage on the monitor has stayed the same. Can someone please help?! I thought I’d have full batteries everyday with 640W of solar but so far nothing! Hope thats enough info, thanks in advance!

4 amps of solar? In Scotland?! Well, I'll be...

Does anybody have any helpful tips on powering our 60 by 10 wide beam to make us as off grid as possible. I need advice in all aspects and I'm not sure where to start. any websites, phone numbers or general advice will be gratefully received.

I've just installed a Tracer 4215BN MPPT 40amp Solar controller from Bimble Solar with a 255w panel feeding 4x Trojan T105 6v batteries. I've set up the user parameters as best I can but there are a couple I'm not 100% sure about... I have set the following which are as close to the Trojan recommended settings: Boost/Bulk Charge: 14.80 Float Charge: 13.50 Equalise Charge: 16.20 Under the section Battery AH should I put 225 or 450? I've currently got it at 225 but think that it should probably 450 as the total for the bank @ 12v? Other settings I've got but not sure about and would like some clarity are: Over Voltage Disconnect: 16.3 as this is 0.1 above Equalise Boost Reconnect: 13.2 (default) Low Voltage Reconnect: 12.6 (default) Under Voltage Reconnect: 12.2 (default) Under Voltage Warning: 12.0 (default) Low Voltage Disconnect: 11.1 (default) Discharge Limit: 10.6 (default) Equalise Time: 120mins (default) Boost Time: 120mins (default) Temperature Compensation Coefficient: -3mv/C/2v however the Trojan site says: Add 0.005 volt per cell for every 1°C below 25°C and Subtract 0.005 volt per cell for every 1°C below 25°C - so should I change the setting to -5mv? Many thanks in advance.

Hi everyone, Can anyone recommend a good, well-designed ventilation fan for a bathroom that works both on solar and battery back up? Are solar fans powerful enough, do you think? Or would it be better to get a fan that connects to the 12v system? If so, any suggestions for this also? Thanks, everyone, for your advice. Alan

Hey so I have recently got myself a boat which is a norman 27 fibreglass boat. I am currently pondering how I am going to install solar panels onto this boat, I have heard that the best way is to drill them on but I dont really want to do that as I have heard fibreglass is fragile. These panels are big (1.6M X 1M) so the only 2 places for them are the front cabin roof and the back cabin roof. So is there any alternative way to get the panels onto the boat roof, I was thinking maybe there is some super strong industrial glue or even some sort of metal wire rope that anchors it at 4 points. I have no clue how I am going to do this so open to any suggestions. Here is the panels I have bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282164412810 2X 250w Thanks Tara