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Found 22 results

  1. Hi, below are photos of pitting discovered on a hull survey on a 57 ft narrowboat built in 2007. The survey report says there is a small amount of deep pitting on the side plates and some other pitting measuring upto 0.9mm, and the deep pits require back filling with weld. The photos are of both the deep and upto 0.9mm pitting after the hull has been jet sprayed. The hull readings taken are all ok and there's only been minor diminution of plate thickness. I'm trying to get opinions on the severity of the pitting if possible based on the photos. Unfortunately it won't let me upload the individual photos because they're above the maximum allowed size limit so I've had to take a screenshot of all 14 images. Not sure if they will be clear enough. Thanks.
  2. Evening all, I need to find a surveyor to carry out a full narrowboat survey in the Cheshire area (Northwich). Any recommendations would be really appreciated. Thanks
  3. Hi there. First post on here so please forgive me for any etiquette/wrong section errors etc. For the last couple of days I have noticed an odd tapping/knocking noise seemingly coming from the port side wall in the bathroom area. Almost like an echoing pulse every second or so. I can't pinpoint the exact location but there are no pipes or wires in that area. . I have tried turning off everything electrical, which made no difference. I also checked all areas underneath water pipes and the bilges etc. and no signs of any leaks. Likewise central heating system and boiler all functioning as normal and water pressure good. Any ideas what else I should check. I first heard the noise after getting back to the boat after the storm on Sunday. The boat is in a reasonably sheltered location in a small private marina. Bit of a long winded post but any suggestions welcome. Kind regards Treb
  4. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  5. Hi was wondering if any on had any tips re the maintenance of aluminium sliding windows and the single pain with the tilting top section. i have notice that the condensation cant escape on many of my windows (i have 18) and there is also moss in some of the seals on the outside.
  6. Hi we recently had to have some work on the base of our hull as well as blacking. Our boat has been in the water for 48hrs and the blacking is appearing faded at the base of the hull? For instance where plating has been added is appearing silver through the water. It is along the side of the bank we have been moored but I would have thought if enough blacking was placed it would appear blac for longer than 2 days? Is this normal/ too soon? Can anyone give advice? We paid someone to complete the blacking also.
  7. Hi, I am a newby and about to purchase our first boat - I am wondering - does the bottom of the hull get blacked? I can imagine it's difficult due the the blocks that the boat stands on but then does that mean the bottom is left vulnerable to rust?
  8. Hey all, In early January I bought an older widebeam (built in '74) that I'm currently in the midst of restoring. At the time, the boat was held in Shepley Bridge marina in Yorkshire, where (after the sale) the marina offered to black both the exterior and interior of hull (at a recommendation by the guy who undertook the safety survey.) Now, 6 months later, I've reached the point where I'm ripping up floorboards and rebuilding the interior, only to find that the the interior blacking they did consists of only as much as you can see when you lift the small hatches in the floor. Combined with pipes that water pipes that burst while the boat was in their care (the temperature caused them to burst - something I looked past at the time, as I wasn't sure whether it was firmly their responsibility to keep the boat warm during the sale), there are now various spots of rust throughout interior. This isn't a terrible problem - a big of grinding and painting - but I find it incredibly angering that something I paid for was, at best, half done. So, I was wondering whether anyone had any similar experience with them and whether they were known for doing this or whether it was something else. In every other respect, they seemed more than accommodating (going so far as to give me a hand moving the boat an hour or two upriver), so I'm not sure how far I should take this. Any thoughts or experience appreciated, Ryan The Dark Horse
  9. We have inherited a Sealock RM68 pump out loo (when buying our new/used widebeam) and so far we are not impressed. We also inherited a full tank of poo which was a little unfortunate, but there are occasions when you have to take the good with the bad. The current problem (apart from the inconvenience of pumping out, cost involved and the occasional whiff ) is I believe that the seals have started to detoriate and there is a small leak at the base, also some waste seeps back into the bowl (digusting I know) . I am quite prepared to get a new seal kit for the short term (in the long term we will be returning to a cassette toilet). My question to anyone who has experience of this model is - Are the kits easy to fit and will it bring the promised benefit? Sensible and useful answers only please as we have already been the brunt of about as many poo and loo jokes as any boat owner can manage. Many thanks 'H'
  10. Looking for a bit of advice...I’m looking at buying a narrowboat which comes at a good price, however the survey recommends gritblasting and painting the baseplate, because apparently it is thinner than usual and has ‘widespread pitting’ There seems to be two schools of thought when it comes to baseplate maintenance from what little research I’ve done, ie painting or leaving as is because of thickness/lack of oxygen etc. I would prefer not to have to blast and paint it if I didn’t have to because of the expense. Here’s an excerpt from the survey for more details.... ‘The base plate had a nominal thickness of 8mm, but point thickness measurements indicated some diminution. The majority of readings were above 7mm, the lowest reading being 6.1mm. Widespread pitting, not uncommon on narrowboat base plates, was widespread, resulting in shallow craters with an estimated depth of 0.5 – 1mm, but no loss of structural strength was detected with hammer testing. 1. Given the comparatively thin base plate, grit blasting and applying a protective paint coating would greatly reduce the chance of serious diminution in the future. However, boatyards are reluctant to take on this work due to the limited access beneath the hull.
  11. Hi there, We’re quite new to boating and have bought a lovely Narrowboat that we are currently living on in Milton Keynes. We have a few odd jobs, that need doing that we aren’t confident enough to do ourselves (yet!) but from what reading we’ve done, don’t necessarily need a particular trade. So we were wondering if there were any Narrowboat handy men in or around Milton Keynes, any suggestions etc would be most welcome. thanks :)
  12. I have a Suzuki DF15 (2006) outboard motor and I've not done much maintenance on it since getting it almost a year ago. What kind of maintenance can I do/not with the outboard tilted back? From the service manual:
  13. Afternoon all, I am renting a narrowboat as a continuous cruiser. I'm aware that this is a controversial thing to do, however, I would like the benefit of your shared wisdom without any judgement as i have a question with regards to stove maintenance that has me stumped. Essentially, my stove hasn't been serviced since the landlord bought the boat 2.5 years ago, and he is digging his heels in about getting it sorted. As winter approaches, I am concerned about my safety, especially as it has been leaking water when it rains due to a faulty chimney and the seals connecting the pipe to the body of the stove and inside of the roof/chimney collar look old and a bit worn. Over the next week I will be replacing the glass, stove rope and chimney, however, should I be insistent over getting the stove serviced or will I be ok? To clarify, there are no visible holes, cracks or gaps on the body of the stove, though I can't see if this is the case where the pipe connects to the chimney collar. Thanks in advance for any advice. Cheers, Bob.
  14. I have seen different ways and advice on here, but does this seem the way to go, or is there a better way ? can u copy and paste this link- -http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+change+oil+on+boat&&view=detail&mid=E58DBE322E1B83B8FA3CE58DBE322E1B83B8FA3C&rvsmid=755EF031718A929B3AD2755EF031718A929B3AD2&fsscr=0&FORM=VDFSRV Not done it yet ,have been waiting on a strap wrench, so ,got oil, right cc but 10w40 instead of advised by manual,15w40,got filters, oil and diesel , done the air filter. Couldn't change oil, because sump pump was knackered, think previous owner had been using a external manual pump out of dipstick hole as there is a manual pump in the bay. So looks like it just unscrews and fit new pump. So I am good to go, any tips b4 I do it gratefully received. . This should be in newby but too late now. Thanks.
  15. Went through barrowford locks good Friday returning today ( in the snow !!!) and nearly fainted every piece of paddle gear was working and copious quantities of grease in evidence.... A number of gates have been replaced over winter and the lock keeper last summer seemed to make quite a difference too. I think there really has been an marked increase in maintenance on this part of the L&L in the last few years as CRT seem to have directed some long overdue money this way.
  16. Hi All, I'm a relative newbie to narrowboating (one year living aboard at Peartree Bridge Marina in Milton Keynes, and cruising since last July) , and a complete DIY ninnie, and am seeking some advice regarding my Morso Squirrel back boiler. I love the stove, and relied on it throughout my first winter in the marina, but the back boiler part, even when it was working, was disappointing at best. It allegedly drove two small rads in the bathroom and bedroom, at the opposite end of my 57 foot boat, but even when it was working great, the results in the radiators were disappointing. I tried bleeding them, think I succeeded, but they still stayed tepid at best, even with a roaring fire going in the saloon. Also, the previous owners had the water circulated by a mains operated pump. That was fine when I was Marina bound, but as I am cruising away from marinas now, I needed this replacing with a 12 volt pump, which I had done whilst in MK as part of a general refit of the boat for it's new post Marina life. Since the replacement, the thing has never worked properly: either the pump speed has to be set so high it is screaming very loudly, or the water is pushed round so sluggishly that the system starts - 'kettling' - is that the word? - Making scary 'bags of hammers' noises at the stove, anyway, like it's about to explode, whilst vomiting central heating fluid from the expansion tank all over the engine room. So scary is all this in fact, that I've decided I can't risk using the stove at all til this problem gets fixed. I've found it impossible to find anyone competent to sort it out in my new area of operations around Burnley, Lancashire, on the Leeds and Liverpool, and with money now being very tight, I thought the simplest thing to do in any case would be to de-commission the back boiler part myself, reversibly, in place. What I had in mind was emptying the central heating system (though I don't know how to do that either), leaving the input and output valves to the boiler open, and simply cut the copper pipes to them, taking out about an inch, and capping off the pipes, so I can just use the stove without fear of explosion or central heating fluid disasters. My thinking is that if I leave the valves on the Squirrel open and the stove side pipes of the boiler uncapped, air can expand and contract safely through the boiler during use, and I can just use the stove as if it had no back boiler. That way, any future owner who wants to make use of the rads can simply hook up the pipes again, and do battle with the pump. Is this a safe plan? Will the stove operate safely without fluid in the back boiler? Will the boat be okay for the BSS exam if I do this? What should I think about regarding making sure the operation is reversible? All advice appreciated. Alexa
  17. Hello everyone, I'm not sure if this is in the right place, I've had a good look around but haven't seen this mentioned elsewhere. Sorry if I missed it! I am planning on buying a grp cruiser as a liveaboard. I have looked at a number of boats and think I'm pretty sold on a seamaster 30. I have seen one in particular that I really like however one thing I have just found out about her worries me. She hasn't been out of the water since 2009. Should this worry me? It seems like a long time for things to start going iffy! I've read lots of horror stories of osmosis. My main worry is that it points to the boat not being treated that kindly in general. Or is this fairly normal? I would greatly appreciate any input or advice! Cheers, Matt.
  18. Hi There, although I have been hiring and sharing I am new to owning my own boat and want to touch up the paint work on my pride and joy. However my former life means I have no transferable skills that don't involve microscopes, pipettes and precision measuring and manipulation. The previous owner has left part cans of all the colours I need and I have read how to guides which start with rub down to bear metal. So I got the wet and dry paper and rubbed and rubbed and rubbed. So here is my stupid question for those of a more practical bent: what is the best electric tool for rubbing the paint and rust down to shiny steel on a narrow boat? Thanks for any advice or recommendations. Cheers All.
  19. Hi Any recommendations on service parts for the Cananline engines? I have a 52 I should service soon. Looking for oil and air filters, mostly. The "original" Canaline parts are a bit expensive and I've seen a few on ebay but not sure... Any tried and tested sellers/links? Thanks
  20. I am asking for opinions please of a tentative business idea my partner has. He has recently retired as a police sergeant and is looking to combine his love and addiction of canals, by offering a service to other narrow boat owners. He has had a connection to the canal most of his life, going back to his childhood and has owned a narrowboat of his own for nearly 20yrs. Can you see a requirement/demand where you may require your boat moving for you to a new location, whether temporary or permanent. We know the problems of wanting to be one place but the car is in another and its such a hassle, going backwards and forwards. A further service offering, water top up, loo emptying, oil and fuel top ups, coal collection and general cleaning of inside and out. If there are any other services that you think may be of interest, please let me know. Thank you Gill
  21. I've been absent for a while due to circumstances changing in my personal life, this meant that getting to work on the boat was mainly done by my father with me joining him when I can. For those that remember us, Hello, love the new site look, to those who are new, we are based up in Norfolk by the Denver Sluice and are by our own admission, complete novices! We own a blue and white 23ft Cabin Cruiser called Shenni-Lee, she's tatty and basically made up of leftover parts (old BMC 1.5 Petrol engine, hydraulic MGA slave cylinder gear system etc). Background story: We took our boat on a maiden voyage down the river (Great Ouse) and stopped for lunch at The Ship, a few miles away the boat appeared to perform well albeit with some steam from the rear exhaust, this had been how she had run for months so we thought nothing of it. After lunch we turned her around and headed home unfortunately this is where our fortunes changed and Shenny-Lee began billowing white smoke from the engine bay, we managed to navigate her into a private mooring before losing all power/steering, other boaters were around and gave us the number of the mooring owner, who after hearing our predicament not only allowed us to moor our boat up there until we could fix/remove it, but also called us a taxi back to our home mooring to fetch our car. We decided to try to move the boat and so purchased a small outboard we would use to power slowly back to our home mooring, sadly we managed to get 500 yards up river before this too died and left us drifting, we were pulled into moor next to a boat club who a few weeks later and for some beer vouchers, towed us back to our home mooring. After listing our issues to these guys we were told it could be the weed trap blocking water intake, we eventually found this but found it clear, so next step the dreaded impeller. Thankfully someone sent us a manual for our engine so we were able to distinguish exactly where this part was located, after eventually getting it out we found that it had disintegrated into a giant O-ring! We took the broken impeller to a chandlery and were supplied with another, we headed up there the following weekend but the part would not fit, we took the shaft out and went back to the chandlery to get a replacement, it was the wrong impeller. I fitted the new impeller this weekend just gone, not knowing if what I was doing was correct or not, we turned her over but she wasn't going.. we decided to swap out all the spark plugs and take the battery home to charge it. Another fortnight passed and I was back at the boat, and after correcting a loose battery terminal and connecting some jump leads for some extra power, we turnt her over again, this time she fired after a few splutters... and she runs, some smoke at startup (burning off old disturbed oil I suspect) but after a few minutes no smoke, no steam, she sounds beautiful, the best she ever has. We decided to cast off and head down the river to see how she was under load, she performed impeccably, going into gear without issue. It appears the Shenni-Lee lives again!!!
  22. I bought my boat on a good survey a few weeks ago. One of the main things the surveyor pointed out was that the stainless steel screws securing the windows were rusting and should be replaced before they become too corroded to unscrew. Some are clean and shiny, some very rusted, one head has come off. He recommended replacing them all with aluminium pop rivets as these last well and are easy to drill out. Can stainless steel screws rust in this situation, and if so what advice do you have for remedies here? The windows all seem fine so I don't want to remove them all prematurely if I can avoid it. For the moment I've just sprayed them with WD40 and taken one out to look at. It is 1 1/4" self tapping and I'm skeptical that it is stainless - maybe galvanised? I know nothing about boats or screw materials so any comments welcome, particularly... Would simply replacing these screws would be adequate? If so, what with? Thanks
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