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Found 12 results

  1. Hi All, I'm a relative newbie to narrowboating (one year living aboard at Peartree Bridge Marina in Milton Keynes, and cruising since last July) , and a complete DIY ninnie, and am seeking some advice regarding my Morso Squirrel back boiler. I love the stove, and relied on it throughout my first winter in the marina, but the back boiler part, even when it was working, was disappointing at best. It allegedly drove two small rads in the bathroom and bedroom, at the opposite end of my 57 foot boat, but even when it was working great, the results in the radiators were disappointing. I tried bleeding them, think I succeeded, but they still stayed tepid at best, even with a roaring fire going in the saloon. Also, the previous owners had the water circulated by a mains operated pump. That was fine when I was Marina bound, but as I am cruising away from marinas now, I needed this replacing with a 12 volt pump, which I had done whilst in MK as part of a general refit of the boat for it's new post Marina life. Since the replacement, the thing has never worked properly: either the pump speed has to be set so high it is screaming very loudly, or the water is pushed round so sluggishly that the system starts - 'kettling' - is that the word? - Making scary 'bags of hammers' noises at the stove, anyway, like it's about to explode, whilst vomiting central heating fluid from the expansion tank all over the engine room. So scary is all this in fact, that I've decided I can't risk using the stove at all til this problem gets fixed. I've found it impossible to find anyone competent to sort it out in my new area of operations around Burnley, Lancashire, on the Leeds and Liverpool, and with money now being very tight, I thought the simplest thing to do in any case would be to de-commission the back boiler part myself, reversibly, in place. What I had in mind was emptying the central heating system (though I don't know how to do that either), leaving the input and output valves to the boiler open, and simply cut the copper pipes to them, taking out about an inch, and capping off the pipes, so I can just use the stove without fear of explosion or central heating fluid disasters. My thinking is that if I leave the valves on the Squirrel open and the stove side pipes of the boiler uncapped, air can expand and contract safely through the boiler during use, and I can just use the stove as if it had no back boiler. That way, any future owner who wants to make use of the rads can simply hook up the pipes again, and do battle with the pump. Is this a safe plan? Will the stove operate safely without fluid in the back boiler? Will the boat be okay for the BSS exam if I do this? What should I think about regarding making sure the operation is reversible? All advice appreciated. Alexa
  2. Hi I've been living aboard for over a year now and each of my 13kg Propane bottles has lasted about 3 months. Pretty good! However, the most recent bottle has only lasted one month - pretty poor! I have a Rinnai instant water heater on board and the only thing I've done differently is to leave the pilot light for this heater on permanently. Prior to this, I would only turn the pilot light on when I had a shower or did some laundry or some washing up. Obviously, having the pilot light on permanently will use more gas up, but I can't believe that it would use 2 month's worth of gas over a period of one month - if you see what I mean! Of course, I could have been given a bottle that was only half full or something but I've been reassured that the stockist simply takes deliveries and has empty bottles collected. It's unlikely I've been deliberately short-changed. So, does anyone have some idea of how much gas having a pilot light on 24/7 might use? Photo of Rinnai with pilot light lit attached! Many thanks
  3. Can anyone help? I have an old Alde comfort gas boiler which heats the water in my calorifier & 4 radiators onboard. I have recently removed 2 of the radiators & capped them off. There don't seem to be any leaks in the system and I have re-filled the header tank with 50/50 anti-freeze/de-ionised water. But when I have switched the boiler back on there is no hot water! I've opened the valves on the radiators to bleed them with the Alde off and on several times and water comes out but it's not heating up!?! I have tried isolating the radiators and firing up the boiler - the water in the header tank gets hot and the pipe leading to the calorifier gets warm but not hot (I've tried leaving it on for several hours but it still doesn't heat the water in the calorifier) What am I missing here?
  4. Dear Friends, I am creating a gravity fed heat sink for my new stove back boiler. Thanks to help on this site, I have ironed out many of the questions I needed answer to. However one still remains. For the heat sink aspect of a gravity fed system, would a 10 - 12 meters of 22mm cooper pipe made into a sort of towel rail allow water to thermosyphon. Would be using a pipe bender not joints to keep joint restrictions at near zero. There would be a lot of horizontal pipes in this design idea, which is a concern, I don't have enough experience to know if gravity circulation would function enough under these conditions. Would use mounts all the way along to support the pipe. Haven't done the maths yet, in terms of how much heat would be displaced, but will get back to that after, once I know this design will work. Please enjoy my wonderful diagram which hopefully will assist the explanation :-)
  5. Our Optimus central heating boiler needs a new controller block which will cost about £400. So I'm considering alternatives. The Optimus has a balanced flue which exits through the roof and its installed in a "cupobard" to one side of the central door at the back of our boat. Ideally something that fits into the same space and possibly using the existing hole in the roof would be ideal. Anyone got any suggestions? Steve
  6. Hi there I have a 40ft narrow boat which I live on. I have owned the boat for 1 month now and the water pressure has always been bad, but recently I drained the water tank accidentally. From then on my water pressure is extremely low, I have tried running the taps for 40 minutes but not much difference. There is another problem, I can't get any hot water. When I turn the hot water tap on the boiler kicks in and stays on for about 5 seconds in till the water pressure has gone low. (At least I think this is why it stops) Can anybody help me on what to do to solve the problem. Thank you.
  7. morning all!! i recently replaced my water pump to something a bit more powerful as i had issues with water pressure and my paloma not working very well, now there is plenty of pressure, in fact so much so that the water does not have time to get hot enough now as it passes through the boiler too quickly (the opposite of what i had before which was water too hot, but with the addition of cold reduced the pressure and so stopped the boiler burning - they're pretty contrary and fickle these boats I'm finding out!!). the new issue is this: when i try and turn the hot tap down a little (or even the cold tap for that matter) the pump sort of only comes half on, judders a little and the lights flicker. what is going on with this???? with the old pump if i turned the tap down a little there would still be a steady decrease in pump speed, water pressure etc, now it seems like the pump only likes it when the taps are full on, not half on?? And why would this affect the electrics?? has anyone had this problem before? yours rather frustradedly SB
  8. hi all - quick query. i unplumbed my paloma boiler to fit new worktops, and stupidly i forgot to make a note of which was cold inlet and which was hot outlet! it is a standard Paloma - looking at it from the front, the gas inlet is to the left, and then there are two water connectors in the middle and to the right. can anyone tell me which is which??? cheers!!
  9. hi all can we use one of these on our NB safely? http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/mini-heater-hose-and-reg-p162735 we have a problem with the back of the boat never warming up, even when our stove makes most of the boat pretty toasty. we're thinking of getting some existing and currently redundant rads joined up to a combi boiler or webasto/eberspacher, but want something to keep the chill off our bedroom and bathroom in the meantime for short periods of time (maybe an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening). if something like this is no good could someone suggest an alternative?? cheers! mike
  10. Hello there, Sorry for starting a probably well thrashed-out and potentially very stupid post, but after reading this forum and googling in general for an embarrassingly long time without gaining an understanding of what will do the trick, I'm still scratching my head. I'm doing up a 45footer and I'm after a system that will provide hot water for bath/shower, taps, a couple of little radiators for chilly mornings. I've got a little multifuel stove for heating on really cold days, and I have a morco d61 which I haven't fitted yet because I've realised I won't be able to run any radiators off it (useless, I know). I'm hoping to get a combi boiler of some sort, but the only ones mentioned on here are Alde, which appear to be in the over-a-grand cost region, which is a bit of an issue....but could be managed with a bit of saving. Would any other kind of combi boiler do, would I need anything else with it, or would a tank > pump > boiler > taps/radiators setup be functional? I've read some of the really useful guides on boat heating and water systems and I'm really impressed, I know a lot more than I did but I'm still wondering if there's a reason why you can't just buy an lpg boiler like this: http://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/Heatline-CaprizPlus-24KW-Combi-Boiler-and-Fernox-Installers-Pack?gclid=Cj0KEQjw6pGfBRD09M-TmYTBzqIBEiQAcRzH5xtPIk5-EU3__2QYKdILCB5vKBf-3YkP9BYH3YKQ08kaApF78P8HAQ& Many thanks for your help all, and sorry again for starting a new topic on this. Lucy ==
  11. Had to find a pub to warm my fingers... I have an Ellis Heatmaster on my nb and has worked fine since I fired up for winter, until now. I had the heating on for a an hour or so the other evening and noticed it had started to chill off despite the boiler still burning. So for an hour the radiators had been working as normal, but then suddenly just stopped. As if blocked, which I suppose may be the problem. I wanted to drain the system, but have two questions. Firstly, is this the best thing to do? is it sludge or something in the system that is most likely? and secondly, how do I refill it? there is a small open topped box above the boiler with three pipes. The first is connected to the fresh water and on the left of the box, and has a valve on it which when opened pumps water into this little box. The second, at the bottom of the box, is connected to the top of the boiler and top of calorifier, and its behaviour suggests the whole box is like an expansion box (?). The third acts as an overflow, and the water drains into the engine bilge. I just would like to understand this system a bit more, and most importantly fix the problem that means I can heat water but not the radiators... Any help much appreciated, thanks! Andrew
  12. Hello We are getting a wide beam canal boat built and are planning on constantly cruising and would really appreciate some advise on a few things! I was hoping to have a full length bath onboard, and 4-6 radiators but I have now been told that unless you have a diesel run boiler radiators are pretty useless, and you’d have to have a huge boiler to be able to heat enough water for a full length bath. Anyone have any experience with either of these? Is it possible at all? Are diesel boilers very expensive to buy and run? Would I have to have a huge boiler? Also I want to be able to use kitchen appliances fairly regularly (nutribullet - 600w magimix - 1100w) and wanted to have low watt floor lamps and maybe some fairy lights (not to run all the time, but when i want to make it super cosy) - I've been told this wouldn't be possible but I've seen lots of boats with these things in them! Do you have to have a very high watt inverter (and is this very expensive?) Or would I have to get a generator? Or are these things only possible to have if you have a mooring and are connected to the grid? I have been quoted £4800 to have the boat painted which seems slightly ridiculous to me! Does anyone know how much it would cost to employ someone to come and paint an overcoat and then do some stencilling? Does the price we’ve been quoted sound right? Really appreciate any advise or guidance! Thanks :-)
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