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Found 25 results

  1. I have 3 x110 ah open cell lead acid leisure batteries, kept charged by 70 amp Alternator, 100 Watt solar, and shoreline Nocco Genius 7.2 amp smart charger. Also 110 ah starter battery linked by a new split charge relay. All batteries were replaced a couple of months ago, but have given problems ever since. As a leisure boater, the alternator charging is used for about a weeks cruising each month. The rest of the time they are left permanently on solar and the smart charger. When out cruising, the engine warning light and buzzer occasionally come on for a few minutes at a time after about an hours cruising. After just one day's cruising, the fridge fails to start without running the engine, and overnight the Tracer MPPT shows a red low battery warning light. The hydrometer readings are showing all cells as between 10.9 and 11.1 volts, and one battery dry, with the other two OK level of acid. The mechanic replaced the dry leisure battery about 6 weeks ago, but it is dry again now, and now tells me he found them all dangerously hot, almost boiling. The starter battery has remained fully charged and in good condition throughout with no problems at all. The initial voltage from the alternator is showing 14.36 v both sides of the split charge relay. In summary, the new leisure batteries are well and truly knackered, the fridge can't run overnight when cruising, the solar display shows red after first day's cruising when engine is off, and the Isuzu control panel buzzes at random after about an hour's cruising. The mechanic says he thinks the Nocco charger is causing the batteries to overheat when on extended shoreline power, but can provide no evidence to support this. I am not sure that would account for all the symptoms either. I'm also not convinced a 7.2 amp trickle charger would deliver enough oomph to boil 3 x 110 ah batteries. Can any of our electrical gurus suggest a plausible scenario that would account for this range of symptoms? Any help/suggestions would be mightily appreciated. Thanks.
  2. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  3. Hi everyone, ive had my narrowboat for about four months and have been happily living off the leisure batteries. However I now have the opportunity to access shorepower and would like to have access to a few luxuries from time to time (like tv, or the ability to charge my laptop onboard). I have no idea what to do though. My boat has no power sockets whatsoever. As far as I know the only things that run off 12v are the lights and water pumps (shower, oven, fridge etc works off gas). there is no external socket for shorepower. I assume that in order to access shorepower I need quite a bit of work done on the boat. Can anyone explain - slowly - what I need to do? Many thanks for reading.
  4. Hi All Just a quick one as lots of conflicting information out there. Am revisiting my Solar MPPT regulator in the belief the Absorption and Float voltage settings are incorrect, I have maint free lead acids Numax XV31MF. My question is what should the Absorption and Float Charging voltages be. Absorption Volt Charging = 14.6v ?? Float Volt Charging = 13.5v ?? Thank you for reading Andy
  5. Hi, I have a charging issue it seems. I have just bought 4 new leisures at £600.00 and had them proffesionally fitted. But they are down to 11.5 v . The weird thing is the engine battery is getting fully charged. I have not used the inverter as that's how I killed the last lot. Only had the new ones on 3 days and I have been very careful. My system is 24v so they are linked - to + in the bank. The alternator is quite new and it's pushing out 17v. Not sure if that's right. The control panel says my batts are at 100% but that's obviously incorrect. And on another setting my amp hours said 280 but every second it dropped 2 hours until eventually saying zero hours left. I have a split charge relay and it reads the same as the alternator in motion. I'm just getting fed up now trying to sort this out as it's ruining my time on the boat. There's more info I want to add but I can't remember atm. So guys what dya think? Alternator, fuse, spilt relay or control panel.? Oh yeah when the last lot of batteries died my voltmeter shot up into the red zone as I reved the engine. Thank's.
  6. Hi there, I’m wondering if someone can help me. I’ve just installed 2 solar panels (in series) and they don’t seem to be charging my batteries. 2 x 320w panels (mono crystalline) 1 x 60A outback MPPT charge controller 4 x 6v Trojan t-125 240AH batteries in series and parralell connection giving 480AH in total. Ive checked all the connections. Seems fine. Battery monitor is saying the voltage from the charger is what the batteries are at. However the perctage on the monitor has stayed the same. Can someone please help?! I thought I’d have full batteries everyday with 640W of solar but so far nothing! Hope thats enough info, thanks in advance!
  7. We have a Beta 43 engine with twin alternators. The domestic 150A alternator charges four domestic AGM batteries which are now just over 2 years old. The boat and the alternator are nearly 9 years old. Normally the domestic alternator charges at a voltage ranging from 13.8 to 14.5 volts. On a recent trip it was charging at 14.8 to 15.2 volts. The batteries were not hot after several hours at this charging rate. I have no way of measuring the current at which it was charging. Should I be worried about this and what might be the reason? We have no separate regulator between the alternator and the batteries. We do have a solar panel (100W) charging the same four batteries through a regulator. The solar installation is also about 2 years old. Any ideas?
  8. Hey guys and gals, I'm sure it's something simple I've done wrong here but I've wired a 12v socket that has 3 cigarette style sockets and 2 usb sockets. I've tried wiring it in to two different connection points, where the lights are wired to and when I connect some things, especially my 12v laptop adapter, all the lights flash like a rave. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I need to wire something in between to stop the "surge" or am I being too simple with my wiring? Thanks in advance.
  9. Hey everyone, new to boating and still very dumb about it but trying to learn. The problem relates to the batteries, I have a solar panel and charger and the charger tells me the voltage of the batteries. When I charge them via the engine, the voltage can go up to 13 - 13.2 volts which says to me they are charged but it only takes an hour or two. I've been told I'm not charging them for long enough but if I leave it on charge for longer it generally stays the same voltage the whole time and when I turn the engine off, it goes to 12.9-12.7 which I'm aware is fully charged. An example today is my voltage was at 12.2 so I charged the batteries for 2 hours, the batteries were at 12.7 when I finished charging and they're back down to 12.2 again after only 2-3 hours even though I've only had LED lights running and 1 usb charger for a mobile. What I'm basically asking, which has been mentioned on my previous posts, are my batteries knackered or do I need to leave them charging for longer regardless of what my controller says? I've ordered a generator and battery gauge so hopefully that will give me more answers. Thanks! Oh also, I have 2 x 110amp leisure batteries.
  10. Hello! Having found some very useful anwers on here previously, I was wondering if someone might help us with a problem we've got concerning the engine. To turn the engine on, we turn the key 90degrees clockwise and wait while it beeps for about 10 seconds. This is supposed to heat the engine. Then we can turn the key down once and this will turn on the engine. Since yesterday, after having turned the key down, the engine turns on and makes a happy noise, but the beeping doesn't stop, even after a few minutes of the engine being lit. Looking at the electronics control panel,one warning light is on: "Batteries D". (We were also told that the batteries should always remain above 12.8V. The inverter is off, however, they are now at 11.7V.) Is there anything we could try to do to fix this problem? Can we run the engine anyway (we were told that the engine should be run every day in winter)? Any help or indications on this topic would be much appreciated! Many thanks
  11. Hi all, I have 2 x Trojan T105 6v batteries producing 12v with a capacity of 225 amps. I also have a solar panel that is now actually becoming useful now the sun has come out to shine! What settings should I set it at? Bearing in mind the table listed by Trojan below: Daily Charge: 14.8 Float: 13.2 Equalize: 15.5 The settings on the solar controller are: Load On (Voltage): Presuming this is the "Daily Charge" setting? Load Off (Voltage): Presuming this is the "Float"? PV Off (Voltage): No idea what this is PV: Showing the current amps the solar panel is producing Thanks in advance!
  12. So I've got a Honda EX1000 charger and it bust my first 50amp charger, I've since had this replaced and it's literally done the same thing (part of the circuitry blows). I have no idea what's going on, I thought if there was too much power going to the charger the fuse was blown. Is this more of a charger issue or a generator issue?
  13. Hi All Another newbie here. I have an old boat which is stationary at the moment, and hooked up to a landline. One)brand new leisure battery on constant charge via a 12v battery charger (as recommended by neighbouring boaters). Been fine for months then suddenly - battery dies. Battery charger red light on (for power) but not charging, Went and bought another 115ah battery, checked battery charger, all fine - lights came back on, water pump works again., hurray! Few weeks go by, lights die, water pump not working. Battery dead. Charger still plugged into mains socket and attached to battery but not charging. My multimeter registered 00 charge!!! Got out a very old small battery charger 6V and put battery on charge - bingo,it's now charging (I found out from internet about smart chargers not 'recognising' very low/no volts in batteries). Now what do I do? I have even found out what 'parasitic drain' means and checked that nothing is switched on, but am lost for ideas. Is it something to do with the inverter? (I flipped a switch upwards on it yesterday and the TV went off so I have now put it back down). I can wire a plug and change a fuse, but other than that, the sum total of my electrical knowledge is written above. (I have impressed myself with having got this far!). Any advice/suggestions very much appreciated, as I am determined to crack this. OliveOyl
  14. I have a very old Smartbank II relay, the sort with the little remote control panel which they stopped producing a long time ago. It's packed up again, and assuming I don't manage to fix it this time (no one was interested in fixing it last time it failed, and it was only by good luck that I managed to fix it myself), I'll be looking for a new VSR. Any recommendations for a split charge VSR, with remote override control and status indication? I'm aware of the Sterling ones. Thanks, Andrew
  15. Hi. Firstly, we are CC's with no hookup. I have a Victron 12/3000/120 inverter charger, Victron BMV602s battery monitor, 110amp alternator, Honda 1kw generator, Victron 30amp solar controller with 3x 100w solar panels. I have fitted 4x new Yuasa 115amp hr batteries. These are set as first set had faults within a few weeks (from Halfords are the batteries). When I charge the batteries from alternator, the BMV shows about 70amp initially and over a few hours reduces down to about 5-6 amp tail current. Charge voltage is about 14.3 volts. The BMV shows 100%. I always leave the engine running longer to see the tail current low as possible. I sometimes use the Honda generator to top up the batteries making sure they reach float status. Although the BMV shows say 70amps used since 100% charge and SOC still says about 90% charge, the battery voltage is down to below 12 volts. We have a 240v fridge freezer (new) running off the inverter plus some TV, led lights and phone charging, the actual current since last recharge (from the BMV) is correct I assume? Could it just be duff batteries again? Any ideas?
  16. Dear Friends, I bought three 110AH leisure batteries for £90 each back in July 2015. I monitor the specific gravity of the cells and take a record every few months. So from 12th July to now, the readings have fallen through the floor. I have stuck to battery charging best practises all the way. I NEVER discharge below 11.6 (or let it get close normally). I am 80% on grid power, 20% cruising. I have a Victron 12v 3kw inverter / charger. I only bulk charge at 50amps. The charger actually has a special function so if the batts have been fully charged for 24hrs the float charge is adjusted to reduce corrosion of the positive plate and then increased once a week to equalise which is supposed to prevent stratification of the electrolyte (as well as sulphating). Pretty clever stuff. The waters are topped up always (goes without saying) Basically the dam batteries have been treated like royalty. In return I get a SGR (specific gravity reading) of 1.225 after being fully charged for over 48hrs. When they were new under the same conditions, the SGR was 1.289. These are all temperature corrected values. I also 'eqialise' the batteries once every two months or so. This is achieved using a feature on the charger which increases voltage by 1v for one hour and helps to knock the sulphate off the plates. I do this only once the battery has been fully charged for a while before starting. 1.225 is usually the reading you get for 75% charge (according to Battery University). I can draw about 70AH - 100AH (depending on various factors of course) (out of 330AH) before the voltage gets close to 11.6v. I know 330AH is not supposed to be achievable, as DoD should never exceed 50% with PBs. Still 70-100 seems a bit lame. So would be really interested to hear of other people’s experiences. Is this just a case of ‘buy cheap buy twice’ or do most PBs pretty much suck in this way? Am considering Lithium Phoshate as a replacement at a future date but that is a whole other can of worms which has been talked to death already I’m sure J I don’t want to spent hundreds more on say Rolls batteries only to find more or less the same experience. Many Thanks Stuart
  17. Hello! There are many posts on this topic already that have been very useful. But I've got a few questions and I want to be really clear. So apologies for the forthcoming eye rolling. I bought 2 new 125Ah batteries in January. At the time we got them we were charging them on a (borrowed) 2kw generator via a caravan & leisure 30A premium charger. Then we gave back the generator and moved back to London and spent 1 month without a gennie. During this time we had to run the engine (every day for at least 1 hour). I now know that the alternator was outputting less than 14v (can't remember the exact reading). Now we have a generator again, here's how the batteries are behaving: Immediately after charging, they read 13V after 10 min 12.7V after 2 hrs 12.5V These readings were taken with the batteries disconnected from all appliances. Now our consumption is very low. We run 12V lighting (12 lights in total, all max 3W), water and bath pump, car stereo, phone chargers. No fridge or inverter. The way I see it I have 2 options (not fixing the aternator right now) 1 - charge the batteries using the sulfated battery recovery mode. If I do this how long should I leave it charging for? 2 - the batteries have a 4 year warrenty - if I send them back what's the chance that the manufacturers will tell us it's our fault for not looking after the batteries. Maybe you think I should do 2 followed by 1. Any thoughts welcome, and anything I haven't thought to look into, do tell! Many thanks!
  18. Hello, and it is customery to apologise for ones daftness in these situations, so uhh, sorry about that! But as the darkness and coldness approaches...I could do with some advice Here is the rub 1. Batteries no longer receive charge when engine runs. 2. Batteries do not hold charge adequately.(drops to 10v at night) About my set up. I have 3 80 watt solar panels and mppt controller I have 40 amp alternator I have sterling 4 step alternator regulator I have 2 little black boxes one of them has relay written on it The battery light no longer dims when engine runs Need to fix, spending as little money as pos. What do ya reckon? Cheers Martin
  19. Excuse the idiot question, but: My boat has a single alternator running of a Lister SR2 There is an indication light on the control panel that indicates when the alt is charging. When lit green its not charging, increase the revs, it goes out. I've had the boat six months, when I first got it, it would only charge at high revs and then I'd ease the revs and it would still charge, but stop charging at idle. AT cruising speed my ancient ampmeter would show about 10 amps. Then it stopped charging at any rev speed. I tightened the belt, it started charging again as it was. I thought the belt tension was a bit much, ie only perhaps 5 mm on the longest length. It's now stopped charging at any rev speed, the belt is already as tight as it can get, the belt is not slipping and the alternator is turning with no noise. What I haven't done: Taken a volt reading off the alternator itself. Found out what the alternator type is. Does this sound like the alternator is knackered? Is it worth taking it to a car electrical place or simply get a replacement? Incidentally I have very low electrical requirements, ie no fridge, TV, etc. and an 8o w solar panel that keeps the batteries at about 12.9v (so far) Thanks in advance for any help AF
  20. Hello If I ran a gennie, and wanted to charge one battery to 100% it could take 8hrs. If I want to charge 6 batteries to 100%, should I connect 3 chargers, each going to 2 batteries. Will this speed up the charging process overall, ending up with the batts having a larger individual charge than trying to connect a single charger to all 6 over an 8 hr period. Basically I have a gennie, and want to charge all 6 batts as much as possible over an 8hr period. My charger is only sized for 220AH batteries....but if I had 3 small chargers, I could do it. Please dont tell me to buy a big charger. Got no cash. Just bought gennie. Easier to buy another small charger for now (which will give me 2) and another next month (which will give me 3). Gennie is 2.8kw Alternatively, what will happen if I just connect the 12V output from the gennie onto all 6 batts for a few hours? Thx.
  21. Hi there, We have recently been having problems with losing power on our batteries, so around 4 weeks ago, we have 4 new leisure batteries fitted. However the problem has continued. Our inverter has started beeping and the fridge is cutting off, so i think the batteries have lost power. -We had the batteries fitted by experts, so I think they were fitted properly. -We charge the batteries from the engine. And have been running the engine for at least an hour a day and sometimes up to 4 hours to attempt to recharge. -We have only been running lights, fridge, tv (sporadically) and water. No charging/laptops etc. -We only turn the inverter on when we need power from the sockets, which is around an hour a day. -We have been reassured that they were top quality batteries If anybody can help with advice as to why we are losing charge/not charging up, any advice would be appreciated, as we have no power at the moment. I am also worried that the £450 we spent on new batteries has gone to waste and that the batteries are now dead. Thanks
  22. Hello, I've been having a bit of trouble with charging recently. My batteries are quite low, and the alternator doesn't seem to be charging them enough. The alternator kicks out 13v max (even when charging for a few hours). I don't have a generator or battery charger to whizz them up to full so relying on the alternator. I've ordered a clamp-on ammeter to see what sort of power the alternator is kicking out (and see if something is shorting and draining power), and have inquired with a tacho seller to check if his tacho will work with my alternator, to check the RPM. I was wondering if someone could clear up the connections on the back of my alternator. The connections are on page 33... http://www.prestolite.com/literature/alts/PP1184_Buyer_Guide_alt.pdf I currently have 2 spade connectors coming from the two ++ "European Output Connections", and one from the excitation terminal. What are the AUX and B+ connectors for? Also, I don't have a connector for the battery temperature sensing terminal - should I have one? PS. Does anyone know if this tacho should just simply work by connecting to the W connector? Still waiting on a reply from the seller... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tachometer-Rev-Counter-0-6000-RPM-Alternator-Driven-Type-With-W-Terminal-/371043881967?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5663f053ef Thanks a lot, mibix
  23. Hello all, I've search the forums to the best of my abiities but I can't fing any answers... Here's my setup: Alternator goes to battery bank (2x110 leisure and 1 starter via relay) via a sterling 4-step alternator booster (the old fashioned yellow box type). The batteries are hardly getting a charge as they're receiving about 13v. The alternator is sending 16v and of course the high voltage trip light is lit up on the sterling unit. What I've done so far is replace the alternator regulator to no avail. What do you think the source of the probem is? I get a sense it's either the alternator or the wiring. I don't see how it could be the latter as the batteries have charged in the past at 14v (according to the dashboard). Since living on a boat for just over a year, this is the first time I'm had to work with the batteries,and the first time I've even touched the alterator. Here's what I could do: 1 - take the alternator out and get it tested/serviced at a garage and if it's dead get a new one. 2 - run some further tests based on the vast wisdom available here 3 - be told by you guys that I'm in over my head and should get a pro to come have a look (I won't be offended!) Thanks!
  24. Hi all, next thing to go wrong on my boat... My battery charger seems to have overheated and melted itself! After about 15min of charging this morning my breakers tripped and upon investigation I found brown bakelite smelling goo coming from the unit (top of image) You can see it's dripped down onto the sockets. Not great! I'm guessing either something has stopped the fans or the temperature control in the unit has died. Either way, I am reluctant to turn it back on and my it potentially worse, so no battery charging for me. Anyone have any advice? Is this beyond repair? Cheers!
  25. Can you put a 12v battery onto an inverter and put a battery charger from the same inverter so it loops and provides a continuous charge. I live on a narrowboat and pondering the question. Thank you.
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