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artyfharty

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  1. Thanks both, have ordered new one from Limekiln, Carol very helpful there AF
  2. Hello All The control lever device on my boat has finally died. The internals are worn and it's seized, taking it apart revealed several plastic bushes disintegrated and bearings falling apart. It obviously needs replacing. The unit controls a Lister SR2, there are two existing cables, throttle and gear box. The attached photo shows the stop on the cables where they enter the unit. I'm trying to identify the cables, hopefully someone can help, are they Morse controls? The key to this I suspect is the stops where the cables are anchored in the bottom of the control box. Are these standard, and will any other box I buy have the same cable stop arrangement? If anyone has a viable spare I'd be interested in buying. Thank you.
  3. OK, have done some tests this evening. All tests done in neutral. Low revs the alternator puts out 12.5 volts. Increase the revs to perhaps 1000 rpm and the ampmeter shows approx 15 amps output and the volts read 13.5 v and the green light goes out. The starter battery measured 12.6 volts at tickover and 13.45 at approx 1000 rpm. So, basically if you kick the revs up in neutral the alternator will charge the batteries, you have to take the revs right up before charging starts but then taking them down to perhaps 600 rpm results in a charge. In drive it doesn't appear to do so, perhaps I never took the revs up higher but this was an unscientific test on the weekend and I didnt want to upset the boats we were going past. My conclusion is that the alternator needs a smaller pulley, the one on it is approx 2 inches across. It'll then run at lower revs and I wont have to thrash hell out of the engine to get a charge? Does the team agree?
  4. Ok, thanks all, I do have a large cam shaft pulley, I'm going to do all the tests at the weekend, and then if it looks knackered, take it off and get a replacement/rebuild with a smaller pulley on the alternator. Many thanks for all the help AF
  5. Thanks All Tony There are two leads from the alternator, what is meant by "W"? Cheers AF
  6. Excuse the idiot question, but: My boat has a single alternator running of a Lister SR2 There is an indication light on the control panel that indicates when the alt is charging. When lit green its not charging, increase the revs, it goes out. I've had the boat six months, when I first got it, it would only charge at high revs and then I'd ease the revs and it would still charge, but stop charging at idle. AT cruising speed my ancient ampmeter would show about 10 amps. Then it stopped charging at any rev speed. I tightened the belt, it started charging again as it was. I thought the belt tension was a bit much, ie only perhaps 5 mm on the longest length. It's now stopped charging at any rev speed, the belt is already as tight as it can get, the belt is not slipping and the alternator is turning with no noise. What I haven't done: Taken a volt reading off the alternator itself. Found out what the alternator type is. Does this sound like the alternator is knackered? Is it worth taking it to a car electrical place or simply get a replacement? Incidentally I have very low electrical requirements, ie no fridge, TV, etc. and an 8o w solar panel that keeps the batteries at about 12.9v (so far) Thanks in advance for any help AF
  7. Many thanks all. Will report back after pay day!! AF
  8. OK, thanks for all those. Just put the new pump in, so probably best to put an accumulator in, water system is kitchen sink, shower and handbasin, so not huge with hot water from Valiant gas heater. I'm presuming the accumulator can be installed close to the pump itself, ie in the same cupboard? And that a Jabsco like this http://www.piratescave.co.uk/jabsco-accumulator-tank-1litre-with-membrane.ir?cName=boat-chandlery-toilets-pumps-heads-freshwater-pumps would do the trick?
  9. Hello I have a new Shurflow Aquaking water pump that works fine when the tap(s) are opened fully but at half or third flow the pump cuts in and out every second or two, annoying and probably not good for it. You might say just open the tap fully but that way I'll get through a lot of water quickly. I know that there is an adjuster screw on this pump, would it somehow regulate the point at which the pump cycles fully? The tank is full, no obstructions, and is above the level of the pump, the pump is mounted flat. Any advice appreciated AF
  10. Went past last night on my bike, was approx half full and navigable, came past again this morning, middle section had about six inches of water in. As I'm new to this I suspect someone's leaving paddles or gates open when they shouldnt? Bit annoying as I'm waiting to get to Victoria Park...
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