PaulJ

Now thats what I thought BUT the two day licence I bought started on the day I bought it and ended the next day. I know this as I have it in front of me at the moment. The week one I purchased a couple of weeks before I believe was the same (but I dont have this to hand to prove)

Dont know what time EA gives as you havent said but took me approx 14 hours from Reading to Oxford recently. Wasnt in a particular rush - I think all the cruisers overtook me. But its easily doable on a two day licence -and probably possible on a single day for those that like going flat out dawn to dusk...

Have you tried RJPrice Tonka ? https://www.rjpryce.com/Products/wenlock-roomheater-spares Dont list a back plate but may be able to get one possibly. I have used them several times and find the stove spares to be of better quality than some Ive bought and a better price too!

When I changed mine (which is a boiler model) I stripped the whole stove down as I had been resealing the joints up yearly and the plates were sealing badly. It was all original and its very simple -sort of tongue and groove.Loads of fire cement sealing it with no sign of any fire rope other than in the door.Absolute git to remove back to clean bare metal. Photo shows groove in back boiler and you can just about make out the tongue on the side plate (which is top of pile just behind). The whole thing is held together with 4 studs and nuts ( M6 I think) which fit through the lugs you can see on the side plate.

Well its another Sabb- a 30 hp 2J-HR- but inside which is even pornier I reckon 1st pic engine in situ but with fuel pump cover removed, heads,pistons and rods removed etc .Two round holes in the centre are where the fuel pumps fit into and are driven straight off the camshaft. 2nd pic shows the inside of the fuel pump cover- governer top left and lift pump bottom right with fuel pumps and mechanism in centre. No need to readjust anything- remove fuel pipes and it just unbolts and bolts back on. Brilliant! 3rd pic showing pistons and rods- the big end shells on these engines are an impressive 10mm thick! Well it impressed me anyhow.

I have a copy of a oil dilution in Listers pdf that is quite useful.Cant remember where from but not mine.Not sure what the protocol is about posting it here though? Can I pm it?

Probably wiser to empty the tank and then run off a temporary tank until you can get it repaired. Think even underwater epoxy may struggle sticking to diesel coated steel.

Totally.It is alot of work-especially as you have 12. Think Id bribe someone with access to a laser cutter with alcohol...

Why not cut out a sort of huge washer-fitted between porthole glass and pigeon box- it wouldnt have to be particulary thick and would act as a glass retainer and something to seal to.

Ooops. Yep thats what I meant really

Assuming this murky water isnt coming from your cold water supply and that is clear. Brownish water does sound a bit rusty though? I got a suprising amount of scale out the bottom of my (not that old) calorifier a little while back. I removed the immersion from the bottom and vaccumed it all out. If you are in a soft water area there is not alot you can do about it- its same as your kettle :-)

I have the 2000SE - its ok and runs every thing other than my washing machine (which still uses the element to heat the water). I decided I was better off using this size generator and utilising the power assist on my Victron for the washing machine. I dont know how much the 3000 weighs but the 2000 is heavy enough-if you struggle to use the recoil then lugging it about may be a bit of a problem.

Goba has an 'interactive map' here https://www.goba.org.uk/main.php?section=The_Great_Ouse|Cruising_Info I couldnt get it to display properly on my phone though.

There you go- http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1882/product/hf-462.aspx

After 16 years your ply hasnt done too bad. I would use wbp ply again but give it several coats of West Epoxy before painting it. Will last even longer then

If its 40ft x 9ft I wouldnt have thought 50 hp was overkill (unless you are a bit throttle happy). Id guess at a 40hp 4 stroke being usable. But its just that- a guess.Id still rather spend my money on an inboard though. And a boat better suited to a canal :-D

Sorted! So All good☺

My low level vents are ducted to bilge , behind the linings, from the front cabin bulkhead (approx 8 inches above the front deck) instead of being in the front doors. All my ballast sits on blocks and there is a two inch air gap above the ballast with all the floor bearers running down the boat.Appliances like cookers/ fridges have air holes cut directly below them into the floor so constantly draw up the cooler air. Copper central heating pipes are run at floor level (but open to the bilges) and also draw air from the bilges when the heating is on. Been like that for some twenty odd years now and I have to say the bilges are probably the best bit of my boat and the only bit thats better than younger ones!

An interesting article. If you dont get a copy soon let me know- I should be able to either scan/pdf or send photo of article to you .

Well I for one wont be sitting this one out Apologies for being off topic but did you read the article on the Old Bedford river attempt in springs GOBA news? Thought this would interest you but cant remember where the post about this was...

Not so daft. Probably done so that you cant accidently run the charger off the inverter! Are you sure you dont just unplug the output on the inverter and plug that it into the shore power supply? Seen this done many times on boats lacking a changeover switch.

Rob-Them and me both I can confirm it is indeed as marked and is infact 82 degree. I put it in a mug with hot water and a digital thermometer before I fitted it in engine. Gauge on the engine runs at steady 80 degrees too. Bit of a result that- I would buy a spare but its a tad dear and I have measured it now I actually have one and will see if I can find anything the same.. Peter- thanks for that- I have heard several times Johno knows his stuff and am saving having to bother him until I get to the really important/technical bits Looks like the weather is turning out good for you- I am (despite having just got back from nearly a months cruising) envious

Hi Rob. Part number 945001. I was actually expecting a 60 degree stat (paperwork with it says its 55 degree!) as that was all they could get when I ordered it. But the 82 degree arrived instead. Bonus. So when you ordering one just check the part number is correct for the 82.. Hope all going well with your build . PJ

Cheers for that DW. Very useful for those with a limited shore supply. And as a bonus when the gas unexpectably runs out I could still run that off my inverter

Wont be of interest to many but I have just got my long awaited thermostat. I think it was Rob who mentioned that he was unable to get the correct temperature one ages ago. Sleeman have had some made and now have some in stock- about £60 odd inc postage! Ouch.