adrianh

10 years can be a long time for a hydraulic hose if the oil temperature is over 70 deg C . Hoses commonly fail next to the swaged end as the rubber slowly degrades until a surge in pressure, often when the oil is cold , causes failure. To flush fit the hoses at the pump end with the motor end securely anchored in a suitable container. Run oil through both hose to the container, making sure you do not run the system dry. Discard this oil and connect hoses at the motor. Ideally you should be changing the hydraulic oil annually as well as any filter in the system. The new hoses should be the better quality spiral wrap construction not cheap 2 wire (marked 2W )particulary if the pressure can exceed 140 bar. Industrial hoses often meet this spec, but this incurres a higher cost.

Vertical welding is an art! Firstly you need to be welding into a vee'd out groove with a small amount of metal left at the bottom of the channel with the edges touching if joining plates, or a corner if materials butt up. For a good weld start at the bottom and go up with a slight left / right weave and a short pause at the sides of the weld. Watch that too much material is not deposited in the centre of the weld as you move upwards, adjust to weave speed to keep this as low as possible The rod tip needs to be approx 20 degrees pointing up as you move up. Using a 2.5 mm rod at say 75 amps from a DC set with hot start ( short current boost when the arc is struck) can make life easier. Also the make of rod and the coating makes a huge difference. ESAB OK 46.00 are a good general purpose rod or buy low hydrogen rod. Overhead welding I struggle with too, just keep the amps down and have a gap or a proper veed out weld prep.

This is a Morco replacement used in the mobile home industry :- Cointra Optima 5 Litre Lpg Water Heater - COB-5 Mine came from the Caravan Wharehouse (online or Ebay) It comes with parts for direct replacement fitting. It uses internal batteries for ignition as it does not have a permanent pilot light. The casing is slightly smaller and a bit light weight, but works well on my boat.

The high frequency used for the tig ignition different from what is described in the spec above. I think that this just refers to the general electronic design that allows the high welding current to be developed at low mains current. The Tig torched used with HF arc striking has a button that starts the power and gas. Look at the R Tech site to see this design and also online videos for all types of welding. I use this :- Code: TIG160PDC, but it cost more than the machine mart offering!

That looks like a very basic tig welder so not very good for a novice. Basic tig welders can have the gas flow on constantly and do not have high frequency arc striking features. You have to scratch start the arc at the tig electrode which is not easy without practice.. Pay a bit more and you get gas on /off and hf tig arc strike functions. This also gives better arc weld functions as you should get a feature called hot start that strikes up the arc more easily and allows you to weld with smaller rods at lower currents with thin materials. You can also buy special arc welding rods for thin sheet work, they have a different coating

If you are looking to do thin steel then consider TIG welding, you do need pure argon for this but can weld all but ally with the cheaper machines, down to very thin sections. For mig 0.8 gasless wire will be ok for steel at 2 to 3 mm when inside. If you want to do a lot of welding then it is cheaper buy 20 or 30 litre gas bottles at car parts trade suppliers and just refill when needed. Avoid Air Products or BOC small bottles as you get nothing back after a couple of years after purchase. Look at R Tech in Gloucester for reasonable quality kit and materials

Just realised you said 1.5 bar cut in therefore probably a 2.5 bar pump hence precharge at 1.8 to 2.0 bar. Yes re pressure drainage

Attach a car or bicycle pump with a pressure gauge included. Switch of the water pump and drain the pressure. Read the pressure, for a 1.5 bar pump the air precharge should be about 0.8 to 1.0 bar. If yours is at the domestic heating precharge , as shown on the label, it will do nothing at a lower system pressure 1 bar is 14.7 psi approx. Pump up to this and try the pump. The pressure will rise as the air inside the rubber bag in the expansion vessel is squeezed. Switch off and drain again, if the gauge pressure drops to zero the rubber bag is US. Plenty of suppliers for vessels, can be bought at good plumbing suppliers but need to be potable water grade no the very cheap central heating steel body without internal finish. It does not matter at what point the vessel is connected, it is there to store water under pressure although the cold side is better

If you are going to weld outside you are better off with the gasless core mig wire. You are less likely to lose the arc shield gas so will not end up with porious/substandard welds. Welding with mig ideally requires clean almost rust free surfaces unless you have a lot of amps, the small diy welders do not meet this spec as they are designed for 0.8 or 1.0 mm dia light gauge wire at relatively low amps. Low amps equals shallow weld petration on thick ( 6mm +) steels and little strength. Stick with rods if you want a good job unless you can go to 200 amp plus mig. I weld for a living.

One more think to check, has the tapped thread been machined square to the seal face? You cannot use a dowty sealing washer on a plain bolt unless you buy the self centring type. The standard type needs a small taper on the thread by the flange to centalize the sealing lip. As already said, using a washer to load the seal more only will work if this is integral to the bolt, fluid will leak on the metalic faces. At a push this can be achieved by soft soldering a washer to the bolt head first. Have you cracked the bowl by overtightening the bolt? Easily to do if it is cast ally or plastic.

Has the sealing face been damaged by the 1st washer/arrangement? Rubber seals will need to be diesl resistant ie nitrile rubber not natural rubber as often used in the plumbing world PTFE is ìnert to most things so can be used. If this is a metal bowl filter a soft copper washer is best, pm me with size an I will see what I have

You may get away with filing a flat face on the filter thread to give the washer something to seal on, but do not overtighten the nut on the plastic thread. These nuts tend to be a loose fit when used on a brass bsp tap thread, so when screwed onto the plastic thread this can easily deform inwards ( ie no internal taper on the attached fitting to prevent this) and it is very easy to strip the thread. From just nipping the seal washer ( assuming it is not missing! ) to a reasonable grip is probably less than 1/2 a turn. If the thread has already been damaged the fitting will have little chance of pulling up square. You would be far better to use the proper cone end fittings if you want a leak free system. One more thought, the bore on these flexibles is often well under 1/2 inch so can reduce the pump flow due to a throttle suction line. They are design for pressure line use when the bore restriction is not so marked.

This hose has the wrong form on the end, it is meant to connect to the flat end of a tap and seal with a flat washer. The standard connector for the filter has conical tapered end, so you are unlikely to get a seal with this set up. The thread on the filter is 1/2" NPT I think, which is slightly different to the 1/2" BSP on the flexible pipe If you check the Jabsco site you may see what adapters are available that fit the filter properly. My setup uses the braided hose adaptor and flexible pipe ( with jubilee clips) to a hose tail on the rigid pipe work.

I have one and it works well, came with a flue adapter and mounting stand off bracket as a direct replacement. Ignition is via battery so does not waste gas. I was replacing a very old valiant and had to redo pipes as coonections were opposite. Purchased from a mobile home supplier in south wales, they also list spares. Popular in mobile homes I think. Much more compact than a morco if the bracket is not used.

I think you will find that all return oil from the direction valve in neutral or the system pressure relief valve when in drive passes through the cooler then back to the gearbox sump. The hydraulic pump is always adding heat to the oil so long periods of running in neutral will overheat the oil without a cooler in circuit. The clutch plates in the 150 are flat sintered metal . If you leave any moisture in the oil the bearings will be the the first to fail with a high risk of the gears failing due to miinute pockets of water not providing lubrication under load. After water ingress change the oil several times using the bottom drain plug. I know this as I had a box fail after the same problem you have had, the shaft oil seals are sometimes single lip facing the oil but not good enough to stop water ingress when submerged, also the O ring on the valve can dothe same plus the breather and filler if you had a lot of water in.

I think you need to talk to the harbour authority as the whole river and floating harbour from Hanham lock is controlled by them. They operate strict policies on mooring unlike CART.

I understand that their is a waiting list for moorings in the harbour at Bristol and few other longterm moorings to have on the river or K and A. I suggest you check before buying a boat

Any local car spares , agricultaral or bearing supplier should have an AVX equvalent about 1000mm circumference. From memory avx is a notched belt to drive properly on small diameter pullies ie alternator

I have similar windows and could not locate replacements so made my own from ally channel and turned parts with proper bushes and o ring to stop water dripping when tilted open. Pm me if you want details etc Currently trying to find a supply of the rubber extuded strip that the glass sits on , if anybody has a source imformation would be helpful

Square D switch probably from Italy supplier on Ebay is your best option. You will need to tee into your pipework and connect to the pressure switch with a small bore pipe as the switches are 3/8 or 1/4 bsp female thread. A spiral pig tail connection with 6mm pipe reduces the chance of the switch pulsing on off close to the set pressure.

If you are sucking a vacuum the rubber heater hose is also likely to collapse as it is desgned for positive pressure For any sort of suction you need a hose with a spiral wire reinforcment designed to prevent collapse under negative pressure. Not sure if asap sell this, if not look at ARCO industrial range but chose one suitable for hot water service as this is made from better rubber compounds. You have been lucky using PVC braided pipe at that temperature as it would go soft and degrade quickly, you will probably find it has gone hard by now!

The pressure test of an extingiusher shell only applies above a certain volume and after a certain age. I do not think it applies to small sizes used on boats. My work extinguisher service man recommends they are replaced every 5 years. If you ever have to use a small powder extinguisher you will see just how quickly the run out so it is important they fully work

Tony, you are correct but I have only seen boat paints that are the xylene or other quick drying thinner based, so react with oil/white spirit based gloss finish paints, although it does not seem to be a problem over red oxide oil based primer so much. I have a similar problem on the roof of my boat were the proper boat paint applied over domestic oil based undercoat over 10 years ago has now cracked and is lifting in many places. I have learnt the hard way that with painting you cannot take the cheap option if you want it to last!

If you used the standard oil based grey floor paint (similar to old gloss paint) you will not be able to cover this with any other proper boat paint as the solvent content will lift or bubble the flooring paint. To get a lasting job total removal is required. Did you check the spec for the grey paint as the paints I have used say not suitable for external floors

Your new pump should have been fitted with a chamber containing a mesh filter just before the pump inlet connection so this should be very clear to see, if not you may have a filter between the tank and pump. Some feed flow isolation taps have a filter chamber built in, this is a lump protruding from the tap, or you may have a poor installation with no filter that would allow your pump to push debris down stream. Filters on taps can be at the base of the silver flexible pipe sometimes used to connect taps, or just in the bottom of the tap threaded connection stem, a domed filter insert, or directly above the removable splash defuser on the tap spout. Any type of pressure regulator on the tank supply should also have an in built filter. Hence you have several blockage points possible. If you have checked for blocked filters then your first next check needs to be to establish that you can get full flow at the calorifier output by making temporary pipe connections. After this move further down the pipework. It could just be that your cylinder is completely full of scale, this is easy to check if you can fully drain it then lift to judge the weight. I live in a very hard water area and hav never had a home cylinder last more than 10 years, once you get a few inches of chalk in thebottom water flow drops rapidly.