dor

Diesel; think in terms of £1 an hour. More if cruising, a bit less if just battery charging. Expect cost to rise to nearer £1.50 an hour before too long (new tax situation).

I would firstly suggest that you look more closely at the situation around CCing in and around London (a marina mooring will be into five figures). Your diesel figure is greatly underestimated if CCing and using engine for electricity generation. I think there is a London Boaters facebook page or similar which will give you much more informed information.

Well that explains why the chimney cone is out of alignment! It might be possible to remove much of that silicone, centralise the flue and re-silicone it. Use fire rope to hold the flue in position then use a high temperature silicone to seal, e.g. 'Delta'. It doesn't need to be as heat resistant as that used on the collar as it doesn't get that hot. Using silicone allows the flue to move a little to accommodate expansion, otherwise it can crack the top of the stove.

I had one of these double-skinned chimneys and the inner didn't fit tightly in the top of the flue, although it did go into it. and although the outer was a good fit around the collar some smoke would go up between the two skins and I still got some condensate on the roof. I have finished up with a length of steel tube (4"OD) that fits snugly in the top of the flue. I've rivetted a chamfered band round the chimney about three inches up to provide some sort of seal and prevent the chimney dropping down the flue. Easy to remove when leaving the boat and no condensate on the roof.

1.2 - 1.4 litres per hour.

Best to take the PRV outlet through a skin fitting. Not a big deal normally if an expansion tank is fitted, but makes a big difference if the valve sticks open.

While you are at it, change that tap for a full flow lever ball valve. Much more reliable and a lot quicker to shut off in a hurry.

The grill on my cooker was quite difficult to light. The sparker would operate, but the gas wouldn't light properly and then only on one side. To fix it hold the gas button down for several seconds before operating the sparker. The resulting 'whuump' would then light the gas properly and ajust needed a couple of seconds holding the gas button down while the thermocouple heated up.

Stick to proper narrow canals and it's not a problem... ?

And freebie holiday on a top boat for her and three of her mates. No wonder it sounds idyllic. £7-800 holiday plus a fee for writing a short puff piece. Gisajob ...

I was once asked to look at a boat that had "gallons of oil in the bilge". Turned out to be several litres of water (cruiser stern) with a couple of spoonfuls of oil on top. Can the OP clarify what sort of quantities he is referring to?

Hi Athy I suggest you change Gary's login name!

As mentioned, a flap valve is the answer. Very little restircion to flow.

What sort of pump? A 2.9 is usually adequate for a narrowboat. Is the input filter blocked? The 2.9 relates to the flow rate. Was the 4.2 a higher pressure? PRVs are normally 3 bar on a boat. Most pumps will cut out around 2 bar.

The latter. Google "Meccano bridge".

And some bridges really were made from Meccano; Picture from CanalPlanAC

Definitely have to book Weston Marsh lock as it is not permanently manned, and very little used. I understand it is operational again since the Danny tried to take out the top gate ...

When I worked in the animal feed industry we received a very substantial cheque from HMRC every quarter. Virtually all outputs were zero-rated.

Left and right- handed ones.