Quattrodave

Thanks guys, Sorry probably should have said the boat in question is a project boat 30' GRP cruiser with an outboard leg & is currently on a river. Somthing i have thought about and i don't think would be too difficult but charging would be a major issue!!! One of the engines ive looked into is the Ford Transit 2.5DI (banana) engine... Not too worried about all the plumbing... Juust wondered if there were any reasonablly priced engines out there that ive over looked, somewhere around the 70hp mark i think would do nicely.... Thanks Dave

Evening all, I keep toying with the idea of a re-power, swapping out the (old but functioning fine) BMC 2.2 diesel engine... Any idea what a decent replacement might be, a little extra power wouldn't go a miss either 😄 Thanks Dave

Any chance of a short video, this may help to show how quickly it turning over? Edit If smoke is coming from the exhaust its probably injecting fuel. Can you measure starter battery voltage? Anyone nearby with a big set of jump leads?? Is your stop leaver pushed fully home??

What we've done in the past that worked well was split the cables /pipework out into smaller manageable bundles. We then installed a number of suitably sized glands and fed the cables and pipes through these. If it was a single large cable or pipe then the glands seal up very well. If it was a number of cabled then squirt a bit of sealant in the back of the gland leave it to go off for a few hours then snug the gland down. Cheap, easy and easy to add to if needed... Edit: I just happened to have the correct size drill and tap for the large glands so mounting them in steel was a doddle...

Very similar dimensions I believe, although it is pretty much invisible when stuck on. Edit Surprisingly tough stuff, cut it with scissors....

For a temporary fix I've had really good success with 'greenhouse' repair tape. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264731774250

If you have a decent set of jump leads you could connect battery posts to starter to rule out bad / high resistance wiring. If you are in the market for a new starter battery goto a decent motor factors and ask for a 'black cab' battery...

What Mr Blackrose said ^^ This is exactly what I did, although I only had 25mm (1") closed cell foam and it works perfectly...

Errr what scale are you measuring oil pressure in? My first thought is the oil is being 'watered down' I'd guess with diesel, has the oil level gone up with out adding oil??

A decent instructor may be able to teach you a few tips and tricks but I fear, as others have said, you may well have picked most of it up. Ask at your local Sea Cadets Unit, most of not all will have RYA instructors that are happy to do training for donations to the Sea Cadets.

I've had a few cushions made up recently, personally I like 2" bluefoam + 2" memory foam.

I'm a little surprised by this sentence, are the engine and gearbox physically seperate and linked only by a a drive shaft? Or do the engine & gearbox share oil and or coolant?? Any photos available??

I wonder what's failed on the coolant pump. If its bearings then just replace the bearings. https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/114439-bmc-22-coolant-pump-refurb/

My guess the NB in question has been stuck up on a cill at some stage and is twisted and possibly even slightly bent...

Well I think it's a bit mean, if AI want to learn about boating and ask questions the why shouldn't it?

Defiantly! Used this method on the broads soft banks many years ago, works very well!!

Agreed. For a powerful starter battery at good money go to a decent motor factors and ask for a 'back cab battery' probably 70 or 80ah with cca of 800 or 900.

Indeed, many years ago when working with a race team we didn't use anti freeze as the water cools better. I dare say they use something different these days... Edit IIRC it was 'pure water' I believe its free from impurities, calcium, chlorine, electrolytes etc etc...

https://www.tek-tanks.com/product-category/tanks/tank-accessories/inspection-hatches/ Edit: Cancel that, its not rated for fuel. Edit edit: Correction, some are rated for diesel...

Call Lancashire Rotating Electronics and ask them for a replacement and whatsapp them a pic, new one will likely arrive the following day...

Yeah I read it 3 times, didn't really understand it, and couldn't be bothered to try again...

That's a good shout I didn't think about injectors. I've never had these ones overhauled, I'll pop them out and get them sent off at some stage soon.

Evening all, BMC 2.2 diesel engine has intermittent puffs of blue smoke, not talking about cold but when really nice and warm, running for a couple of hours. It feels a little strange to me as it's not constant & it seems to happen more at lower revs, less than 1800 ish. I'm assuming it oil burning (blue smoke), compression is good and pretty even between the cylinders, it starts well, even from cold, 10 secs of heat & turn turn fire and runs smooth immediately, so I'm assuming the rings are ok. I've checked the breather it's clear. My only other thought is valve stem oil seals, I'm sure if read somewhere only required on inlet valves. Anyway, what do you guys think, is it more likely to be oil burning, whats the most likely suspect?

Personally I wouldn't get the propex heater repaired, I'd replace it with a diesel heater. Just be aware they can use a fair bit of electricity if used for a long time. Perhaps have a look at a Refleks heater. A friend has one and I'm so jealous!! During the winter he runs it 24 / 7 has a nice visible flame, uses very little diesel and zero electricity!!