Boater Sam

Special crank pulley for poly vee belt over 100A alternator, not easy on BMC 1.8 as the woodruff key is a weak point. Get the wiring sorted, buy a 90A Leece Neville alternator, £150, and a Sterling or Adverc alternator controller, run engine at 1200 to 1500 rpm and you will be fine.

I feel no pain or annoyance in slowing from 3 mph to 1 or 2 mph whilst I look at the moored boats and converse with the owners on the moorings. Then I don't want to race around the system, its not why I live on a boat.

Because it is open to air, being fed with oxygenated fresh water from leaks, hence it will rust. The weld at the perimeter with the side sheets is kept wet. Water is trapped under the ballast. It is also keeping the timber flooring damp so that it will rot, it will cause continuous condensation, drawing more oxygenated water into the bilge. The wet insulation from condensation will increase the heat loss from the cabin, causing increased condensation until the whole boat becomes a damp sponge. The leaking shower will cause the water to be stagnant and stink. If there are any advantages to having a stinking pool under the floor then why aren't all boats built this way? Having long ago had a wet bilge boat ( Harborough) I can say that it was disgusting, stinky in summer, dank in winter.

Sounds like a disaster under floor. If you have water in there it will be deeper at the rear. Your boat is not in good shape, needs attention urgently.

Which bilge are you saying has not much water in? Are you looking under the engine in the rear ? I was more concerned with under your cabin floor which is separate and has no bilge pump normally. I would find that leak before you get a wet floor a rusted base plate. Your sealed system must have a pressure release valve somewhere and the calorifier also has one.

Mind my bike!

Its a boat, so black paint and then roses all over, its traditional

2 will do.

Personally I would be happier to find the leak rather than put my faith in a gloop to prevent my bilge being permanently wet. Sealed system leaks of that magnitude are usually due to radiator valve glands weeping, easily fixed anyway.

Historically, in 1998 BW decided that there would be no new linear moorings. In 2008 the land owner farmer here and I achieved a new mooring right for 12 boats, but only after a battle involving threats of section 8 etc and refusal of licences. I can put you in touch if you so wish. Private messages only. Sam.

The cause of the problem is you fitted it wrong in the first place and then refused to listen to good advice to enable you to find it was leaking from somewhere other than the drain screw. No need for a parsimonious reply, I was only helping you but never again. Ignored now. A conceited attitude is not going to help you either.

Maybe so Fustian mills Quote "In general few cotton mills were built in Cheshire after the cotton famine of 1861–5, but a notable exception was Congleton. Between 1860 and 1950 fustian cutting was the town’s dominant industry, and many firms took over the empty silk‐spinning and throwing mills (Nevell & George 2014, 28). The fustian process involved cutting through the loops of various types of fabric, usually cotton, with a razor‐sharp blade to create the distinctive ‘high pile’ required to produce velvet, moleskin and corduroy. Small‐scale factory production started in the mid‐nineteenth century with the introduction of larger cutting machines, although the hand‐cutting of fustian cloth (also known as velvet) continued until full mech ‐anisation of the industry in the mid‐twentieth century. Over ten fustian mills were built in Congleton between the 1870s and the 1900s (Calladine & Fricker 1993, 102–5). These were typically long, narrow structures of two or three storeys with wooden beams and floors such as Meadow and Riverside mills. Fustian factories were also built in the late nineteenth century in Middlewich, Sandbach, Warrington, Wilmslow and Winsford, but all have now gone except for single examples at the two last‐named towns (Nevell & George 2014, 28, 35)" From The industrial archaeology of Cheshire : an overview Saford uni.

With thar charging routine you are going to destroy a lot of batteries very quickly!

Do a power audit. You will be surprised how much power you need and how long your engine will need to run everyday to maintain your batteries.

Pumps and immersion element are available in 12v but they still use the same watts as mains ones, the current will be 20 times what it would be when they were mains. Just how are you going to charge batteries fast enough? Inverters are less than 100% efficient. Solar in winter? Forget it.

Does the boat ever move? Not a facetious question. If you intend to move how are you going to power 2 circulation pumps? If its a boat, you cannot expect to run domestic land based systems if not connected permanently to a land line.

Shoes, duvets, nappies, bottles, even a dead cat. You would be amazed at what some folk think will go down a drain. Many years in the plumbing game taught me that if it will go round the bend, some clown will flush it.

The 3 way Electrolux fridges running on gas steam up the windows really well when the exhaust is missing and venting into the boat, a warning sign if you have one of these. When you get old and stop breathing there will be much less condensation to worry about.

Think I got there before everyone. Sam. If I don't blow my own trumpet when someone else has been credited for giving my correct answer, who will?

The boat fitter / builder should instal a shut off. its a requirement.

Think I got there before everyone. Sam.

Batteries well charged? If it has gone up in smoke and smells, its bad. If it has just stopped working, disconnect, check the fuse and try it. I believe that there was a repair service for these.

Do ensure that the filter you use not only fits but has the anti drain back rubber flap valve, visible in the holes in the base plate. Without this, oil pressure takes a lot longer to come up on starting, bad for the bearings and camshaft.