Mad Harold

It is unlikely that a hull will corrode all over to a dangerous level. There will however be rust pitting around the waterline,and if these rust pits are,say, 2mm deep on an average 4mm hull thickness,then the hull will need attention soon.The baseplate can get a bit thin due to erosion rather than corrosion. If there are a lot of rust pits,then many yards will recommend overplating rather than spot welding the rust pits (it's probably quicker). But if you can find a welder with lots of patience then spot welding is an effective repair.

It would surely need to be overplated three or four times for the hull to be wider than the rubbing strips? Is it possible to do this?

Yes, and coil,points and carburettors,or even magnetos.WHEN you broke down it was easy to fix.

Leaks can occur on the gas taps of the cooker. Is there a pilot light on (water heater,fridge?)+

Had similar on a previous BSS. Turned out to be a faulty regulator on the gas bottle.

Yeah,absolutely. Nil Illigitemum Carborundum.

seems 3/16 BSP are as rare as Whitworth on the web. Going to order 3/16 drive in nipples as they are only £3-45 for 10,and try one before drilling and tapping.

Got a squeaking groaning tiller.Where there should be a grease nipple,there is a screw. Took it to my local fastenings supplier and found it to be,3/16 Whitworth which they didn't have. Have found a supplier on the web with 5/16 Whitworth nipples but no 3/16. There are some suppliers with 3/16 push fit nipples, and I wonder if these will do the job. Anyone know? Otherwise I will have to drill and tap to a more readily available size. Not a job I fancy because it is in a most awkward place.

The sun plays a part too! Yesterday for example my roof got very hot. expansion and contraction due to heat and cold will crack paint. after a time. I painted my roof with International walkway paint two years ago, and some rusty cracks are showing especially between the hatch rails.+

If you want to make your boat individual,go ahead. I have seen a few rather "odd" boats eg.one that had the front and tail end of a Reliant grafted on,complete with Delboy graphics.Another (three) linked together in line complete with "a Towing"sign on.All painted purple. If you are not interfering with anyone's rght to enjoy the canals,do what you want.

David and I enjoyed our day out immensely.As we are both solo boaters,it was really nice to have someone to have a natter with.We both fell in love with your little boat and it's sweet little engine and for my next boat,I will look for an Owl class. Hope your op goes well. The eight and a half hour trip did include a stop for a pint at The Collier's pub.

Fibreglass is in many ways a wonderful material.Rotproof,wormproof,and rustproof,can make complex curves,and is easy to repair. It lacks tensile strength though, and can be badly damaged by a sticky upy scaffold pole that someone with horse manure for brains chucked into the cut! It also burns readily, so fibreglass (and petrol powered) are not allowed to use the Standedge Tunnel.

Sent PM but don't know if it has gone. When do you want to go? Am moored 4 boats up from you and live locally.

Hurth gearbox on my boat,(BMC 1500) was on when I bought it. Two years and I have done some 500 hours and it's been no bother. Have read somewhere that the Americans call it the dollar an hour gearbox,because it used to cost $1000 and last about 1000 hours.

Thanks for the replies. should have added that the voltmeter reads 14 volts when the charging light is out. Only noticed this because I have recently changed ny starting technique. The instructions for starting are printed on tapes on the instrument panel,and read; "throttle to ten o clock,heater plugs for 30 seconds" This results in the engine starting with a roar and a cloud of smoke and the charging light goes out. I have found that 10 seconds of the heater plugs and setting the throttle to a fast tickover position is a more civilised way of starting,no smoke and the engine burbles away nicely. This is when I noticed the charging light staying on. I am now reassured. Once again,my thanks.++

When starting the engine hot or cold (BMC 1500) the charging light stays on untill I give the engine a "blip"and then it goes out and stays out even at a slow tickover. Havn't checked alternator output,but batteries are charging ok Is it a faulty regulator or worn carbon brushes,or poor connections? or perhaps a sign that the alternator is on the way out? Any advice most welcome.

Yes,I rinse the inlet strainer after a day's cruising,and generally there is not much in it .However depending on the time of year and certain canals, ( like the Peak Forest in Autumn) blockages sometimes happen. It is no great issue,because well before the temperature gauge registers a rise,the water outlet ( a constant flow ) starts squirting intermitently.

Not often on a boat that is cruised or washed quite often,but I have seen plenty of "marina queens"with drainage gaps blocked with leaves and muck.

Just checked my Thesaurus and can't find "gunwaling" Does this word exist? Any english teachers online?

Yes ok,perhaps I've spelt it wrongly. Gunnelling? (walking along the narrow strip on the side.)

Yes,but you don't get rusty puddles on your roof. The muck can easily be removed with a bucket of canal water and a brush.

Not a good idea! A trip hazard when "gunwhaling"

Plus they are good to tie a centre rope to.