smileypete

Description is wrong: http://www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail.aspx?ProductsID=712&ProductsCateId=773&CateId=773 https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/ Can be had up to £10 cheaper from a China based seller but harder to go wrong buying from Amazon, though I'm not keen on them. ETA: Found an Amazon seller with the right description, plus they're £3 cheaper at £32: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ

Try a forum search, eg pressure switch problem, this has come up many times before...

This one is worth a look: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00V9VL9CC

Can't see how a mains fridge plus inverter conversion and standby losses is more efficient than a properly installed 12V fridge. Though the price difference would buy a nice bit of solar and some genny fuel. IF there's already a suitable inverter that's on 24/7 for other reasons then a mains fridge is almost a no brainer.

Must have something to deal with ignition failure, presumably the flue gas safety device ties in with that.

BES do 10mm pipe that's 0.7mm thick, they also do inserts if concerned about over tightening: https://www.bes.co.uk/copper-pipe-coil-10mm-x-10m-20619 https://www.bes.co.uk/pipe-insert-for-soft-copper-tube-10mm-od-18463 They also do 10mm soft copper olives which are good practice for compression joints for LPG: https://www.bes.co.uk/10-mm-soft-copper-parallel-olive OP - are you happy now? ETA: Here's the archive of a sensible and helpful website on DIY LPG installs, no idea if the content meets the latest regs or not though. http://web.archive.org/web/20061006042510/http://www.calormarineshop.co.uk/installation/marine_gas_installation.htm

Could well be a thermal switch at the bottom of the draught diverter, if the flue is blocked or there's too much backdraft it will trip and open the thermocouple circuit, shutting the heater off.

If we're trying to resuscitate el cheapo 'maintenance free' batts then it's surely not much point spending £££££ a charger. Probably won't need more than an amp or two, so it could use a spare 19V laptop adapter or 18V solar panel as a power source, then limit current with a resistance of some sort eg 12V filament light bulbs? Disclaimer: if you can't accept the responsibility of taking any risk doing the above, then a £££££ charger is definitely your thing. The £££££ chargers may not be safer or indeed even less safe, but their makers can afford good lawyers (with the money you handed over, remember? )

Pricerunner do.

'Operation and safety precautions The flue gas safety device checks the effectiveness of flue gas extraction by the flue. If it is inadequate, the appliance switches off automatically so that the combustion fumes do not escape into the room in which the appliance has been installed. The flue gas safety device resets after a cooling- down period. If the appliance shuts down while in operation, ventilate the room. Wait about 10 minutes then restart the appliance. If the problem recurs, call an engineer. The user must never make any modifications to the appliance' https://www.manualslib.com/manual/19337/Bosch-W11b.html?page=6#manual Seems to have backdraught detection which shuts it down automatically. Nevertheless of course I'd have a couple of CO alarms, one with a digital display, wherever it's installed. Maybe the OP could do a search on the Gas Safe Register website, but only check the option for boats (no need to check the option for LPG as well as all boats are LPG ) As for cost, a post on UK plumbers forum may get an explanation from a registered gas bod on there.

Suresure, but without enough detail it's probably best regarded as anecdotal evidence. I guess the advantage of a comms link is that both controllers can be set simultaneously.

For reasonably healthy batts I'd look for tail current to fall by less than a third over an hour and use that as a baseline. This should happen only when tail current is less than one or two percent, depending on batt type and condition. Also don't forget that using tail current to determine a full charge is only valid when the voltage is at the manufacturers recommended charge voltage, adjusted for temperature.

Could be a good cheap option for a 'surviveaboard' if it works reliably.

If it work OK and you don't need it maybe it could be sold on for a good proportion of what it costs. With these cheapo things it does need some brave soul to try them out first in the service of the wider community... a.k.a. guinea pig.

For a narrowboat, best option may be a full size slim depth machine, with a cold wash setting. Failing that a studio size wm is better than none at all.

Agree with Tony, 'just do it'. A suitable clamp meter will help tell if the different panels are working equally well or not. Never heard of MPPTs 'fighting each other', again a clamp meter and voltage readings will help here too. Sounds like one may have been set at too high a voltage, or a battery might have been iffy. ISTR DeanS ran two tracers side by side with no problems.

Use one of these on small fires, I'm surprised Bizzard didn't invent them:

Budget? The likes of blue seas generally, but the 'TIR' knockoffs look to be the best of the cheapos.

Get ones with a gauge, decent size ones (big enough for BSS, obvs) Ikea do a 6kg one for £35 if you have their loyalty card (which gets you free tea and coffee too IIRC) http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/ikea-family-products/safety/patrull-fire-extinguisher-dry-powder-art-70143350/ ISTR the BSS thing is for a number of smallish ones, hence my 'collection', but a small and BIG one might be better for most situations. ETA looks like the 6kg ones can be had for £30 online, so Ikea aren't so cheap after all: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6KG-DRY-POWDER-ABC-FIRE-EXTINGUISHER-WAREHOUSE-OFFICE-INDUSTRIAL-24HR-DEL/360699167557 Don't know if the above has the right stamps for BSS, but I think the ikea ones do.

OK a weekend reply as promised... Typical way for a river cruiser or narrowboat would boil down to a 16A inlet (panel mounting PLUG) feeding a garage consumer unit which in turn feeds the sockets. A steel hull would typically have a galvanic isolator (deserves another topic ) in the earth connection between shoreline inlet and consumer unit. The garage consumer unit would be fitted with an RCD (2 pole) and a single 16A MCB (single pole) which goes on to feed all the sockets. There's plenty of info on the web regarding how to wire it in detail, eg: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=garage+consumer+unit+wiring+diagram&num=100&tbm=isch The diagrams out there show more than one MCB but we only need a single 16A one as that's what the a 16A shoreline supply is limited to, also if the consumer unit is metal don't forget to earth the case. Usually a garage consumer unit comes with a higher rated MCB so this means swapping it out for a 16A one but they're only a few quid. For a refit you can use 2.5mm2 'twin and earth' cable if you really want, but standard acceptable practice would be 2.5mm2 fine stranded flex, eg 'arctic cable'. This can form a radial ('tree') to all the sockets, a ring main isn't necessary here. Since standard eleccy bits aren't designed for fine stranded wire, the bare strands of the flex should have 'bootlace ferrules' crimped on to them, they can be had from Ebay and though pliers are NOT a good crimping tool generally, for bootlace ferrules they will squish them on OK. If space is very tight then a 'three module' enclosure could substitute for the garage consumer unit, but you'd need to purchase the RCD and MCBs separately: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-3-module-ip65-insulated-enclosure-with-visor/74436 A purpose made consumer unit usually has a couple of terminal block to common connections together where needed, but if these aren't prese nt, a good way of joining fine stranded wire is with Wago 221 or 222 lever connectors: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Wago+221+or+222+lever+connectors&num=100&tbm=isch I think that just about covers the basics, ask away if there's anything you're not sure of

Making a box section out of thin ply and decent glue can be surprisingly strong.

Would have thought celotex or polystyrene is OK, 1" or 2" thick, eg: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Celotex-25mm-High-Performance-Insulation-Board-1200-x-2400mm/p/190545 If using polystyrene I'd make sure it's clad with thin ply asap, that'll help reduce the initial flammability. ISTR polystyrene is a third less effective than celotex for a given thickness, so not the bargain it first seems. Worth a quick trawl of Ebay to see if any local sellers are selling surplus or offcuts, it's bound to be much cheaper than retail.

Ya get what ya pay for. Or at least, ya don't get what ya don't pay for. There's some youtube videos of the china heaters working so that's a plus.

Too tired to give a detailed answer now but will get round to it this weekend hopefully. A forum search on 'garage consumer unit' will pull up some past topics, as that's typically what's used.

1.5mm2 or 2.5mm2 is fine. Well worth indelibly labelling the lead something like 'Earth neutral bonding lead for use with generator xxx only' Also it wouldn't hurt to use transparent plugs to make it easy to check the bond connection is OK (could even link N to E at both ends for some redundancy): http://cpc.farnell.com/walther/31036cl/3p-240v-bs4343-clear-coupler-blue/dp/CN06703 http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pe01010/mains-plug-transparent-13a-fuse/dp/PL00474 One of those cheap socket testers with 3 lights will help check whether the earth is connected or whether it's unconnected aka 'floating'. Typically an inverter gennie without an NE bond will show 'earth missing' on these testers. They're not 100.00% foolproof but a lot better than nothing. Don't forget the test button on the RCD only checks the integrity of the RCD itself, not whether an NE bond is present or not.