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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Emz798

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    11
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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    London

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  • Boat Name
    Rough Legged Buzzard
  • Boat Location
    London
  1. Emz798

    Keel Black - Is it any good

    Thanks, good to know! Yes true thanks. Keelblack's been out since 2015 I think but they don't seem to have produced anything except these 3 "case studies" on their website which don't really show anything or say anything about long-term use of the product...if they were counting on the laymen to produce results instead as Sea Dog suggests the least they could have done is paint a few boats for free
  2. Emz798

    Choosing Blacking Paint.

    No worries, thanks for letting me know
  3. Emz798

    Keel Black - Is it any good

    I think my post may have been misunderstood, I simply wanted to know how well the hulls were doing for those who had used Keelblack specifically to paint their hulls
  4. Emz798

    Choosing Blacking Paint.

    I'm curious to know how the Keelblack has held up so far?
  5. Emz798

    Keel Black - Is it any good

    I was wondering if any of you Keelblack users had any updates on the state of your hulls so far?
  6. Thanks but from what I now understand this isn't good insulation at all (you can compare the R values to other insulation materials and see this). Instead it is meant only to reflect radiant heat (so behind a radiator) or as a vapour barrier on top of insulation (such as celotex or rock wool).
  7. Thank you for the recommendations, it sounds like either Celotex or 3M Thinsulate may be the best options and thanks smileypete for the idea to look on ebay for surplus or offcuts I hadn't thought of that. I had naively assumed that shops like B&Q wouldn't sell insulation that could be particularly flammable but of course the discussion above show that clearly isn't the case...Although I think that if a fire ever reached the boat bedroom and I was in it I'd already be screwed (as there is no exit), something less flammable may give me time to grab the engine room fire extinguisher and get to an exit. Hopefully the fire alarm would alert me before any of that was necessary however! Regarding vapour barriers I now realise this may be necessary to stop moist air getting in or behind the insulation and creating condensation and rot, I will look into Duponts -thanks for the product suggestion. I also realise that this means sufficiently thick/good insulation to stop condensation occurring on the vapour barrier. We're not very keen on carpeting (previous owner had carpet which turned out to be full of rotten and moth ridden and was a nightmare to get off) and the wood has already been oiled in preparation for the walls so hopefully that should all be sufficient. After analysing our condensation problem we've realised that it is mainly due to cooking, even though we have the windows open etc. the cooking vapour seems to make its way to a particular corner of the bedroom (the coldest surfaces in the boat). So I think putting up a curtain between kitchen and bedroom may help further prevent the problem.
  8. Hello, it seems the back of our boat (where the bedroom is) has no insulation on the lower portion of the walls (so its just the bare hull). These walls make the room cold but also get a lot of condensation even though we air out as much as possible. For the moment I just have some foil lined bubble wrap to keep the space warm over winter but this means the condensation now happens on the foil bubble wrap and there is more of it. We want to cover these walls in wood panelling like the rest of the boat eventually but need to insulate and prevent condensation properly first. Any advice on how we can best do this? And any suggestions of good material we can use from say B&Q or Screwfix? Or perhaps best to order something online? I don't want anything too thick or messy as it is a small space. I saw Jablite panels at B&Q but were not sure how good these were or if sufficient. I was also unsure whether anything else would be needed between the insulation and the panels. I want to make sure there won't be any condensation for the wood panels to absorb.
  9. We've finally finished connecting everything using rubber hose and brass connectors to plastic piping. So far it's worked great and no more leaks. Our header tank does appear to have a lid with a spring in it so I assume that would release the pressure if it built up too much. Thank you everyone for your advice with this, it's great to finally have hot water on the boat!
  10. Thank you all for your rapid and detailed responses! When we initially connected everything the hot water wasn't flowing to the calorifier which why we put in a pump (a tiny £15 one) to help the water go through and get air out. It worked because after that the engine water was heating the calorifier water very well. However after a couple days it started leaking. We spoke to another boater who thought the leak was caused by our plastic piping being very stiff and the engine vibrations. Rubber piping should do the trick hopefully. Our engine is a M4.15 and actually does seem powerful enough to push water to calorifier without a pump. Our calorifier is at least 3 metres away from the engine and the piping doesn't go straight there so I think it just needed a bit of help initially. We've decided to keep the pump for the reasons suggested in the 1st post above (it doesn't obstruct the flow, we can just use it occasionally). I will check the engine temperature over night and see if we might need a NRV (thanks for the tip!). We have noticed the water (+coolant) level in the expansion tank goes up and down but when the engine is on it's usually between Min and Max so should be ok. We generally top up when needed directly in the expansion tank as that's what previous owner told us to do. I've attached a photo of the engine coolant expansion tank to explain my earlier message better- we weren't sure if it releases pressure at the top. It connects to the engine coolant tank directly and the keel.
  11. We recently connected our Vetus engine to our calorifier and it turned out the plastic connectors (from engine to pipes) were not adequate for the heat and vibrations resulting in water+coolant leaks. We are now about to redo the connections using high heat rubber hose and jubilee clips instead instead (going from engine to water pipes for calorifier). The system was already all set up to be connected before we bought the boat, the pipes are plastic but rated for high temperature (I think-the pipes say central heating and 7BAR/82DEG 12BAR/20DEG)-hopefully this should be ok. Before we redo the connections I wanted to check if there is anything else that we might need to change or add to the system? Currently we are directly connected from engine to calorifier with two stop valves at engine exit and entry. There is no non-return valve anywhere (I wasn't sure if this might be necessary to protect the engine?). We also have a small pump on the calorifier return to engine pipe but this proved to be unnecessary as we get hot water without it (which we assume means the water is flowing as it should). The engine coolant system also has what appears to be a small plastic expansion tank connected as well. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks, Emeline
  12. Emz798

    Emz798

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