TheBiscuits

Ooh! Shiny! You could always buy a real one, not a replica.

How much are you looking at adding if 8ft is too much? What length is your current boat?

Agreed, and if you move onto slightly smaller canals like the L&L, those forward cabin corners are beggars for catching on bridgeholes. They are fine as a floating flat, and obviously wouldn't snag on much on the A&C or the rivers, but I personally don't like the too-squared stern or the cabin shape at the bow. A similar size boat with a bit more cabin shape taper and a rounder stern would be OK though.

More than you realise!

It's a shame you are now trapped in a marina. If you were still out cruising you could boat to the shops!

That looks a lot more like water flow than wind problems to me - and I have regularly driven GRP cruisers in windy conditions. I think the flow trapped them against the bridge - they seemed to be under reasonable control when they are leaving. Getting the yacht stuck is just bad judgement though!

Keep an eye on air draught if you are going that route. Not usually a problem with broads cruisers after their first trip under that tiny bridge...

What's your current favourite then? I know you like the broads cruiser type, but are you going all European since your French trip?

I bet you could do some of it going uphill from Wakefield. You won't be able to shut the gates on a couple of the locks, so hope you can reverse it well. If it's the Broom you are thinking of, it might fit backwards...

It does wonders for hull prep for blacking, which is why we are booked in to both Liverpool and then Wigan dry dock next year.

Sweden is one of the countries that ban the use of silica sand for blasting, as is the UK. Are you sure it wasn't crushed garnet? Garnet looks like sand, but it isn't.

That's another good reason not to short-cycle them then, but does make me wonder how they get average power figures. Run it for ten minutes and you'll get a 4 minute 10A startup cycle, 6 minutes running at 4A and maybe a 2 minute shutdown cycle at 8A if it does that. That's a lot of amp minutes.

https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2018/dec/05/british-solo-yachtswoman-awaits-rescue-after-surviving-southern-ocean-storm A major rescue operation is under way in the Southern Ocean after a British solo yachtswoman was injured and and her boat “destroyed” in a fierce storm on day 157 of a circumnavigation. Susie Goodall, the youngest competitor and only woman in the 30,000-mile Golden Globe round-the-world race, is at least two days from help after her boat overturned and lost its mast.

I'm not into all this modern newfangled rubbish. 10/6/4 mm? Mine's quarter inch plate all the way round. I still think 5/8 inch steel plate is a bit thick for a cabintop though. When you put all your crap on top it'll roll over.

Sounds topheavy to me ...

I didn't think mid 40s was particularly old!

Amps Volts Ohms? You typed one less character than me!

Mwah Mwah Youth of today! I told Andy Ampere he needed to adjust his definition when he first came up with it, and look what happened after that.

Or if you want a more accurate one:

Yes.

Sorry, I was unclear. The 100A range goes -100A to +100A, with a resolution of ~0.1A That's more accurate than you need for most boat electrics. The -2A to +2A range with a resolution of 0.001A That accuracy is for electronics, not alternators! Note that quite a few boats have 175A alternators as standard. If yours is less than 100A and you don't have an inverter bigger than 1kW or so you will be fine.

The 2A range has ~1mA accuracy - next to useless for boat electrics unless you are doing a fancy electronic system. @WotEver should be able to tell you which model the other UNI-T is that is good for boats if you don't want both.

If they are worth less than about £1000 they get destroyed, over that they get sold off.

What does it draw on startup? Some can draw 10 or 12 amps during their startup phase. ( I won't say for how long to avoid confusion!)