BEngo

Marsworth? Tring reservoir to the left of the photographer Startopsend reservoir behind the bank at he too of the pic N

2ft 8 in of draft is not really a problem on most canals. We run around at that or more. You may find the skeg bounces over a few things, especially the back blocks of the BCN. You will also sink a bit further when going along. However, if the swim is 2ft 2 deep, as spec, then the stern is over ballasted, by about 5 inches. The counter should just sit in the water, enough so that waves cannot make annoying slop slop noises at night. First thing is to get out as much stuff as possible from the engine bay. Ditch or shift forward any easily accessible ballast from the middle back. Loading the bow will also help- fill the water tank as suggested, and add ballast. Every inch down at he bow will raise the stern about 1/2 an inch. Don't get nose down though.! N

Once upon an earlier life I worked for a business that made turbochargers. They were Imperial, as were most of the turbos we made, being of US origin. The ones for the German, Japanese and Dutch markets were specified in SI units but the dimensions were converted so the stage drawings were all Imperial too. The high tech Japanese machinery and robots that made the swarf didn't seen to care what they were programmed in.. N

I think the original would have been defined in imperial units. Not too difficult to work them out though. N

45 deg bevel wheel, with the teeth on the upper surface and a coarse pitch thread in the centre, roated by a bevel pinion on the winding shaft . Rotate bevel wheel and the screw shaft goes up of down. Mechanical advantage enormous, velocity ratio low. N

Havd you tried AB Tuckey? They have their own brand and truck and can certainly move a 70x 7. N

There are two stator windings. One is the output. The other provides the field current, and this à is permanently connected to the field winding. The rotor is designed to produce too much field current. If there is no load and no AVR there should be enough field for the output to reach 300V. The basics of the generator thus seems to be working as designed. The AVR is supposed to divert some of the field current elsewhere when the voltage is higher than the set point. I guess this will be by switching a resistor in and out of parallel with the field windings. The (new) AVR either does not work like this or is not working. N

The OP said there was water oozing out from under the concrete so I guess any steel/concrete bond is not that strong. N

I would agree with Tony, but The existing engine is coming out, forceebuild or renewal. That will (should) deal with ang engine issues. The existing tank is smaller than the engine supplier recommends. This potentially risks a warranty refusal because the engine is "incorrectly " installed. The engine bay needs a good sort out. For the effort and extra cost involved it seems worth it to have a larger skin tank. Better to do it now when access is easy than after a new engine is fitted. N

5 mm plate will be fine. The checkers can be inside or out, to your taste! 5mm will bend to the curve without slitting. Jumping on it, or driving a fork lift on to it when supported at the edges will get it going. The swim itself is probably 6mm, bent without slitting. You may need to temporarily weld on a few levers to help with the bending. If the boat is in the bank, bend it off the boat, fitting it to the swim outside until it is very close, then check against the inside. If you do slit it you will need to weld up the slits, otherwise you have an effective tank wall of 2 or 3 mm You will need to curve the top and bottom strips, which you do by beating one edge into the groove of some rsj or heavy rsc with a 14lb 'ammer, moving along steadily. Start with a piece that is too long and trim to length. The tank itself wants to have water space about 25 to 30 mm thick. Set the baffles to give a water channel about 30-35 mm wide. Leave about 50-70 mm for the return bends. Water runs from top to bottom. Don't forget an air vent at the top front. Remove, clean and refit the exhaust. Paint it with stove paint or Sperex HT paint in pretty colours. I would not keep it if it is not effective. Much easier to have a working one as part of the engine swap than pay more, and have extra hassle, to get it done later. Provided you have the money now of course. By the time you are done you will be well able to demonstrate that BOAT is an ETLA for Bring Out Another Thousand. 😯 🙂 N

Generally, a rebuild is cheaper than a replacement, but only if an identical replacement engine is not available. You still have to find ( and pay) a competent mechanic to do the rebuild. Then wait, with no power, while it is done.aa There are too many De Vilbiss rebuilders out there! So, if a drop-in replacement is available and you can afford it, go new. You say a new Vetus will fit the bearers without modification, but what about all the connections, ( controls, awires, fuel, exhaust, etc.) and the prop? The connections can be the expensive bit, because they take time and often specialist labour. The current prop may or may not suit the new engine. What about the price for an extra skin tank? This cost is there whatever you do but still needs to be allowed for. Check that the boatyard prices cover all these things, before going ahead. Ideally you want a single lump-sum total. N

Do not use stone cutting disks. You will not be able to see for cement dust and will need a respirator or a hell of a lot of dust masks. Try hitting it wiv a sledge hammer and cold chisel. Slow but you will get there. If that fails, hire a Kango hammer with a 1 inch chisel point and a bolster point and break it up with that. Go at a strip about 100 mm wide, from the sides. Use the chisel fir this. Once you are down to the base plate go at the join between the base and the shower to widen the slot. Use the bolster for this. Dont use a pointed point anywhere and don't go at the steel at anything approaching a right angle. N

I once got caught on a lee bank on the Market Harborough arm. I eventually got off by pushing the bow out and leaving it with the shaft in the water between bow and bank, holding me in deepish water, then repeating that at the stern, before engaging ahead and winding it on fully. The shafts were tied on with some string so came alongside me to the A6 bridge where I was able to stop and recover them. N

Probably an SR2 or an SL2 There will be a plate on the side which tells you. Only of use in a boat forà driving fixed speed loads, unless heavily modified and a gearbox and variable speed installed. As it is, without evidence that it even runs, it is probably worth scrap value. In running order 50 squids tops. Less if it is an SL2 NÀ

Lawyers charge the hourly rate for a 25 year experienced professional, plus LadyG's extras. Then mostly have the work done by a trainee articled clerk. N

The extra voltage from your lithium battery is a good thing for your pump. More volts, less current, less brush wear. Unfortunately it has packed up.from old age. Water pumps are generally hard to successfully repair. Try the dehumidifier. You are more likely to need to replace the floor as the water tends to destroy the glue in plywood, and.even waterproof ply over time. MDF just turns to Weetabix. You also will want to look for where the leaked water went after it soaked the floor. Probably to the back of the cabin, under the floor. Bale it out with a wet vac and disposable nappies for the last drops. N

Limber holes are filed under "Never say Never". Windows may leak, sometimes lockside piddlers squirt through windows of vents, a rude lock gate may dump some water in through the doors etc.. You want to be able to get that out. In my case it was the water pipe deciding that if no longer liked the water pump, after 25 years or so, dumping a tank full of fresh into the bilge. We do have poured concrete ballast. It has wooden floor bearers onaàa top. The floor bearers have limber spaces at their ends, so the water tank contents eventually drained themself to the back of the cabin where it was wet vacced, and sponge mopped out. A bit of judicious 'leaning' helped with getting the last bits to the back. In your case, if eater can get to the centre from the sides then it can indeed go back the same way. The side holes will get it to the back. A bit of a list ( though not a to-do list) will help if needed. N

With the new floor supports fitted there seem to be a number of closed boxes with no drain (limber) holes to let any water that gets below the floor run to the stern. IF this is the case it would be worth making some limber holes now. Easier than finding you need to when the floor is down☹ N

The running current will be small. Perhaps 3 A at 24v. The start up current is not small! It doesn't last long though, so needs some specialist kit to measure it. When looking for a suitable plug/socket you only need to worry about the running current though. A BS546 15A round pin would be OK. City Electrical Factors and Farnell both do them. You will only need two of the pins. N

There were all sorts of strange goings on round Glastonbury, Wells and Shepton Mallet. A look into the Somerset Central Railway and the various broad and narrow gauge connections might bring something to light. N

The best way to do it. I have seen very few welded up windows that look even half acceptable. YMMV N

Mix some uncooked white rice with it. Any variety is OK. N

Loads of belt dust equals loads of slip. Usually either, insufficient tension, or, Misalignment, or, Wrong type belt( not cogged when it needs to be), or, Insufficient belt wrap, or, Worn belt. All the possibilities lead to the last one anyhow. The join is in the root of the V groove, yes. The two part pressed pulley is fairly obvious when you look at them. They look flimsy when compared with a turned from solid item. N

90 A is about the limit for a 10mm belt. But, before going drastic: Check the pulleys are aligned. Both grooves in line and the alternor shaft parallel to thd engine centre line. Is one side of the snapped belt shinier than the other? Try to get a straight edge across the pulleys for an eyeball of the alignment. Are the pulley grooves clean and shiny? Rusty ones will soon wreck a belt. Is the belt tension right. An over tight belt does not last long, but nor does a slack one. Try switching the Sterling off for the first 10- 20 minutes of running. The benefit of the Sterling is af the tail end of charging so it will not mean running longer if you only switch off at the start. N