Boredrider

To confirm Nick's figures, I equalised my 4 T105's yesterday, using my solar (Outback 60 MPPT, 4 X 100W semi-flexible panels). At 15.5 V the charge current started at 4.8 amps and after 30 mins it was down to 2.8 amps. It stayed at that level for the rest of the three hour equalisation. The batteries were fully charged at the start of the process, and had been on float (13.4) since late October.

I don't think you need to equalise with those readings, Trojan suggest you should equalise if the readings differ by .03 across the cells in any single battery. You could switch the lights on like you did before, wait until the Smart Gauge says 50% and then check with the refractometer again. That will tell you if the Smart Guage is reading accurately. While you have the lights on, you should check the discharge rate in Amps, using a clamp ammeter. It could be that you have some other (possibly faulty) piece of kit that is discharging the batteries at a much higher rate than the few lights that you have spoken about.

If your refractometer is similar to mine, then to zero it, you put distilled water on the screen. and adjust the line where the colour changes using a screw. This should be adjusted to the line below the scales, i.e. the lowest line you can see. In my recent experience, it s not impossible to get a reading of up to 1.31, particularly if the batteries are fully charged, or even on float, and they are cold as well.

If you have a 12V supply in the area, then consider buying a cheap inline pump (about £20). I use one of these coupled to some hose to drain our calorifier. The pump outlet is Tee'd into the bilge pump outlet, via some one way valves. These pumps can also be very handy in any sort of wet emergency as well!!

No, the smartbank will join the banks together when charge is received from any source.

Dave No photos, as I'm not on the boat, but those spade terminals are interlinked in case you need to use two relays, to connect three banks of batteries. So with two banks you just connect the signal wires to one side of each spade terminal, leaving the other interlinked side of the terminal free. The ring terminals on the relays with the nuts on are for the actual charging cables, and will connect the positives of the two banks together when the relay gets the signal to close. You need to have some appropriately heavy duty cabling going to these terminals, with the right, crimped lugs on, to handle the current that your alternator/battery charger will put out, or, if you are emergency paralleling the banks, the current that your starter might draw off the domestic bank. Mike Mike

I bought one of those Halfords things when I bought my T105s a couple of years ago. I couldn't get on with it, and ended up buying a refractometer off ebay. Like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RHA-100ATC-Ethylene-Propylene-Glycol-Antifreeze-Refractometer-Tester-Battery-/291126071884 I find the refractometer much more accurate and informative, and the Halfords device has been consigned to the depths of the tool locker. Yesterday's checks gave readings between 1.30 and 1.28 across the bank.

Do the panels have diodes fitted? I have four 100w wired in series-parallel and I was advised to include a couple of diodes in the circuit because the panels did not have them.

On our boat, which comes from the same yard, the mains socket for the mastervolt 12/80 charger is only live when the three way mains selector switch is set to shore, or generator (i.e. the TravelPower). If the three way is set to inverter, then the charger mains socket is dead. So if you have a similar set up, then possibly the three way switch is playing up. We also have a Honda eu20i. If I plug that into the shoreline, and switch the three way to shore, then the charger starts up every time, automatically, and it runs quite happily off the generator.

For a car battery on long term float charge, google for an Optimate.

One of these: http://www.miracleleisureproducts.co.uk/prop-mate/prop-mate/prod_165.html Performs as an ash rake in the stove, and also works well down the weed hatch! Two functions may even justify the price!

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=72095

I have just bought the Huwaei 5372 from a Three shop for £59 on a PAYG deal, inclusive of a SIM and 1Gb data. It has two TS9 sockets for an external MIMO aerial. I went to unlock it on the Three web site, and found that it is supplied unlocked.! I checked that it is, indeed, unlocked using some free software. So I'm now waiting for delivery of my free EE SIM, inclusive of 100GB data, mentioned elsewhere on this forum. Such a pity that the Swedish Police seem to have just closed down a well known website.............

If you look at page 20 of the Smartgauge manual, you will see that alarms can be set based on voltage of the domestic bank (not SOC, but near enough for your purpose). The alarm output terminals could be used to switch a 12v relay which controls the 240V live to your charger/inverter, or indeed the 240V supply to everything on the boat. I've no idea what sort of fuse/safety arrangements you'd have to incorporate though, perhaps one of the experts will be along in a minute! On a slightly different tack, have you done some sort of cost/benefit analysis? At about £1 per watt plus a good controller, the cost of your solar installation would pay for a lot of mains electricity, especially at the lowish costs that (some?) marinas charge. Or maybe you are taking the philanthropic approach...........

This might do the trick http://www.grassform.co.uk/buy/heavy-medium-duty-mesh/ (I have no experience or connection with them though)

It might be worth trying John in the workshop at Tattenhall marina 01829 771775

The pub opposite is called the Wharf. We eat there a couple of weeks ago, when moored where you are. Highly recommended. MSI is interesting, even for ladies - how about the exhibit on the history of Manchester's sewage system or the working exhibits that show you how the cotton industry worked? Couldn't find any Gardners in the engine hall though, had to go to the Anson Engine museum at Higher Poynton for those - now that is a good museum.

Ours were the smaller 1.5" version. As far as I can see they were the originals fitted in a 2002 boat, but they were probably very lightly used by previous owners! I would certainly hope the new valves last more than 18 months, but I like the silicone grease suggestion from by'eck, and will certainly use some next time I have cause to delve into the valves. Our setup is the same as yours, with the pump between the holding tank and the toilet. With a holding tank of 136 litres we find we have to pump out every 10 to 12 days with two us living aboard, and it still costs £15ish a time!! Based in the North West.

Can you be more specific in describing how the duck bill valves have failed? Our Sealand system needed new valves last year, because the rubber material the valves are made from had become stiff and inflexible, so the valves would not seal properly. But there was little or no sign of limescale on the valves. Or are you saying the precipitate is forming somewhere in the system, before the valves, and then blocking them open? I found a slight build up of limescale on the piston/cylinder assembly, which was effectively removed with application of Mr Muscle Drain Unblocker! This is probably best achieved in a well ventilated space, with plenty of protective clothing on.................... Do you pay the usual £15 or so for a six monthly pump out ? That is a mighty lot of sh1t to shift!!!!

The RSPCA were on the towpath trying to net this duck on the 10th of June (according to our log!). They were aided by a local resident as I recall, but were having no success. Given the fact that it has survived for over three months, I would suggest it is better left alone, but how you tell everyone passing by I really don't know.

Visitors to the Peak Forest Canal may wish to know that Furness Vale Marina no longer offers pump out facilities to visiting boats. The lady at the marina office assured me, this afternoon, that pump outs are now only done for their own moorers, and then only by prior appointment.

http://renytek.co.uk/ I bought semi flexible panels from this firm. Although he trades on Ebay as well, I was able to get a small discount, by paying cash and collecting in person, from an address in Wiltshire.

I put 4 X 100W semi-flexibles on our boat a couple of weeks ago. I consulted various glue manufacturers, none of whom were prepared to recommend any specific products which would stick the plastic panel backing to a roof painted with synthetic enamel + sand (i.e. normal non-slip). In the end I went for Stixall, combed out with a 4mm tiling spreader. I used about 3/4 of a tube under each panel, rolled them with a mini foam paint roller to expel air, and sealed the edges 24 hrs later. They haven't fallen off yet!

I think you went past us this afternoon at Fisher Mill Bridge, on the Birmingham & Fazeley. I was too slow to get the camera out! Good luck with the rest of the trip home, and hope you don't have to bowhaul all the way!!

We went up the Llangollen in late September last year, I measured our draft as 32" beforehand. We got stuck going into the first lock at New Marton, and had to reverse out. We jetisoned quite a bit of ballast, and took some advice from a working boat which ploughed a nice furrow for us, so on the second attempt, with a fair old run up, we made it into the lock OK. We had also moved some of our heavier kit, i.e. toolbox and generator, up towards the bow. The only other bit we had problems with was shortly after leaving Trevor, but that was in part due to oncoming traffic. So I would say your friend should be OK at 31", and wish them good luck on a lovely trip.