jonathanA

More likely to be one of these http://www.gscontrols.com/digital-voltmeter-panel-100-x-95mm-492-p.asp Give them a ring they will probably do the meter for a few quid

Oops !!! Yes it's a terrible place, not suitable for southern folk there's no organic humous for miles and you won't get decent cup of jasmine and tree frog tea for love nor money Stay away !

Oh for goodness sake I do wish these people would stop perpetuating these myths.... Next time one of these doom and gloom merchants say don't stop there or watch out at xx ask them when they last stopped there ... Pretty sure the answer will tell you everything you need to know..... No problem stoping at eanam wharf if you have had enough after the locks. Morrisons a couple of mins walk away if you want to stock up. Plenty of nice spots to moor within about 20 mins cruising of eanam ( heading to burnley which is after Blackburn if heading East !) Rishton visitor moorings are fine and the little cafe does super bacon butties. No problem at burnley but common sense as for any urban area. Good mooring at the inn at the wharf and you can get under the cover of the canopy if you want. Rose grove services is another good place to moor and secure.

I think they are more commonly referred to as 'deck less' l got one from aldi for 35 quid and it's just the job takes usb and has an MP3 input, but I just use the blue tooth As others have said it should be a relatively simple job to swap out your old one for new jobbie.

Despite some of the errant nonsense in this thread there's nowt wrong with this type of switch for what you want providing you fit it in a suitable enclosure (box) to ensure the terminals can't be touched and give someone s shock. Not sure why you need the relay , if the diverter valve is domestic type ( eg Honeywell )it may have a built in switch that operates when the valve is opened that you can use to operate the pump. Hope that helps

Yes should have tape all round. Obviously air was getting in before which is why you need more vent now.

Bad idea means you can only switch it off from the switch you switched on from, which might be a problem in an emergency. Why beggar about with the guts of the thing if it's got a remote faculty anyway ?

What does the official remote control look like ? I.e. does it have a simple rocker switch or a push switch and lots of status lights ? I have a Stirling unit which was fitted by a previous owner who hadn't bothered with the remote. Stirling were happy to supply me with one for a reasonable price but I wanted to build it into my panel so didn't want their unit. I knew their unit had three led status indicators and and on off switch quick bit of experimenting with a RJ11 lead (6 wire) and happy days. Since we are talking low voltage low current signals there is limited likely hood of big flashes and lots of smoke....

Ok so always want to learn, I get that fuses in the battery box could give risk of explosion from gassing batts , although always feel this a much exaggerated risk. But don't understand why a 'din rail' mounted unit would be any better stopgap measure than usin glass or auto blade and if these were 'toasted' then that suggests they were unsuitable for the application whatever that was anyway.... OP - if the socket is fitted to the instrument panel why wouldn't you look to pick up a feed from that ? Possibly from the ignition switch fitting a fuse in line ? You could choose a permanent live or switched depending on whether you want to be able to charge your phone only when the engine is running

A little uncalled for I would say but I'm happy to hold the moral high ground against ignorance and selfish people I'm sure ther are lots of people in the rose counties who would like some high ground right now ?

We'll agree to differ then! by his own admission his comment wasnt pc and God forbid that I defend the pc brigade.... I do agree though common sense should prevail and as we know that is a most uncommon commodity these days

apology accepted ! suggest you re-read your post as your recollection of it seems to differ from what you actually wrote... for instance "no business being on it in the first place"

yes your right its not PC its just offensive my wife is a registered disabled so perhaps you would advocate that CRT don't allow us to hold a licence and then maybe we ought to consider other groups, who shouldn't be allowed on the canals.....

Yep just been snagging a new build toilet/shower facility and was quite surprised to see copper push fit in use in commercial install. The architects were quite happy with it and I had to look twice to convince myself they weren't soldered.... Presumably the time saving makes up for the extra cost

Wait till after Christmas if you can price always drops before Christmas cos trade people cash in their scrap as a bonus for Christmas.

9mm2 is not standard cable size nearest would be 10 mm2. As Alan said make sure you are looking at the conductor size or cross sectional area (csa) in square mm not the diameter.

see post #9

I use yellow foam sleeving used to protect scaffold poles from damage by passing pedestrians. Pass any building site near the cut and there will be loads of it floating in the water IME. You can also put it on your mooring lines

Just reading your post I think everyone has assumed your talking about the mains voltage cabling (inverter output) but you do say 12v wiring. For your mains cabling the usually accepted cable is blue artic flex at 2.5mm or 1.5mm. If you have standard domestic t&e cable then as said it is not recommended as it can (can not will) fracture due to vibration. Put it on your to do list... Eta sorry mobile phone post didn't quite work

No. 2 son has a wolf 2.5kva job that he uses for his business. Well he was until it stopped putting out any volts. Common fault on these Chinese generators is either the alternator brushes or the voltage regulator. Wolf wanted £50+ for the voltage reg same thing on eBay for £5-10. £10 quid later and off he goes . he could find lots of people willing to service the engine for him but no one wanted to look at the alternator.... Guess there are a lot of these being thrown away...

I use a small plastic tub under the filter to catch any oil that is left in the filter after draining the engine and also the bigger filter is easier to fit/remove compared to the small "dumpy" type fitted to earlier canal stars

Not easy to convert to 12v depending on the Led chip you would need driver with a 12v input and an output to match the LED You can find a 12v version on eBay for about the same or less. I had a mains one that went faulty and bought some new LED chips and 12 v driver for pence from China and its now my tunnel light. Go for the warm white version unless you like the rather harsh blue/white light They are bit industrial looking but fairly small

I don't think that's a valid test because GI consist of back to back diodes so you have proven they are not open circuit but not that the GI is shot You need to use a 9v battery across the GI and measure the voltage across the GI then reverse the battery connections and measure again should be something like 1.2 to 2.4 volts Think the safe shore web site tells you how

Start with the basics what is the make and model of inverter? More than likely someone will know about it Does the manual say anything about neutral earth bond ? If not speak to the supplier / manufacturer for their advice