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John Lewis

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  1. Yesterday evening just getting on the boat before dark, noticed a fella paddling up the river. It was pretty much full dark now, so why someone would be paddling up the river now at this time was strange, plus its cold. guy comes past dressed in al l black, hooded jacket, kayak sort of sinking - 'Hiya mate' he looked like a fella you'd avoid on the train. He's spinning around and waiting for his friend to catch up, so I purposely stand in the bow waiting, "Ey up duck" his mate says as he come by, all in black. I mean I'd like to give people the benefit of the doubt - but just seemed strange.
  2. If its one rad, would it be best to enter from the top furthest away then cool, and return on the lower front side?
  3. I guess I'll just have to suck it and see. I don't run the reflex's full whack, but medium, then turn it down, so hopefully won't boil.. How do you fill the system by the way?
  4. Nice one Tracy, I was looking at left over 15mm and was tempted to use that, as going to get more 22mm is an ordeal. So if I could get away with 15mm that would be ideal - as I say it is for just a sole radiator.. I actually have a spring already. Its about 4m down the boat to where Im gonna place the rad - 1M wide by 330mm high. So the rad should be mounted up a bit you're saying.. so the return flows back down is that right? running it along the floor won't do?
  5. do the pipe benders leave a crease..? https://www.screwfix.com/p/lever-pipe-bender-15-22mm/18255?tc=JT7&ds_kid=92700055262507126&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8eOLBhC1ARIsAOzx5cGrS2eexrqYynnmsC72h1-tF8Nq7j_WUONqbxAPyp7mxfMwx-N-LJYaAob8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
  6. "Needs skill..... not for amateurs...." I think I know what I need to do! last question: for the header tank - do I just tee off from a compression fitting before rad... Thanks all.
  7. Thanks Tony, but Im not really following you - " use bends rather than elbows".... basically are you thinking a couple of compression fittings is ok, rather than one continuous pipe? I see what you mean Ronaldo, a gradual rise in the pipe probably allows heat to circulate up better.. Its just that theres a nice gap above sink where an existing hole was cut (see image above) , was thinking the difference would be negligible if I went straight across there...?
  8. crude image hear of pipe work I was suggesting... Thanks Tony, for bends do you mean pipe bend them, or do you mean those soldered bends... also for the flow of the pipe what do you think, if its generally higher, and falling is that ok, rather than some diagrams show a pipe going gradually up at an angle to feed the first rad, is that necessary? Its the same on the cold return, can that have an angle up and into the diesel stove, as that pipe would still be lower than the hot feed?
  9. Hi guys, im looking to 'finally' plumb in one radiator off my diesel stove, the diesel stove has the built in jacket, and sits fairly central in boat. All looks like it should work, My questions are if the stove outlet is 15mm and a new rad comes with 15mm, will 28mm pipe really make any difference to flow? Also coming out the top of stove it needs to run behind sink etc, should the pipe work be done with one pipe, nicely bent, or can I do straight cuts, out then up 90, across 90, down under gunnel straight, then drop down 90 to rad, return pipe would be lower anyway, running back skirting board height? Chers,
  10. here's the original post a while back, where I had it out..
  11. yup, its certainly that! But Im thinking grease enough at bearing/stuffing box end, hopefully bearing at prop end will stay cool in water.
  12. Ya, I had the stern gear out, to sand it sown and free it out.
  13. Packing went in - 3 wraps of 8mm... Do I need to grease down the whole tube, as this is a cruiser stern with about 5ft of stern tube? Thanks
  14. Heres the stuff I had put in... looks to be about 3mm or 3.5mm thick.. 5mm Deep
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