Awayonmyboat

Most local garages/mechanics will take it if you ask nicely (and maybe buy something in their shop if they have one)

I take Nick's points above and he is of course right that there is much variation of risk across LI battery technologies, with the current lithium iron phosphate batteries being much lower risk than previous technologies. However I think much of what is in the video is lithium battery technology agnostic - it is about the risks if something should go wrong, rather than about the probability of it going wrong. I think there is stuff of relevance in it for all lithium battery users (from laptop users up) but especially for those who build systems based on second hand EV cells. I have seen a lot

Nick, thankyou for the above bit of advice. I installed a meter last month and whilst I made sure all other negative connections were on the far side of the shunt, the engine battery connection was something I did not move simply leaving it as was (connected directly to the nearest domestic battery). Now thinking about it I understand why it needs to be moved. Time to get the tools out again.

Having bought a boat with a set of partially working components in an unknown configuration the most useful thing I did was to trace the wiring, labelling cables add I went. Drawing it all into a rough circuit diagram at the same time all slowly made sense. It took time but I'm sure it saved me lots of time (and money) in the end.

I have the same Zanussi washing machine. A few weeks ago and I fitted a LK3000 Low Frequency inverter / charger from Photonic Universe to allow it to be used when cruising. The choice was based on a strong recommendation from my local chandler. It was also very competitively priced - about 2/3 of the equivalent Stirling product which based on brochures seems to be near identical (sourced from same Chinese factory?). It's only downside is it is quite bulky and heavy (26kg) so you need to have suitable space to fit it. It's early days yet but test runs with the shore line disconnecte

Thanks all for the input. After removing the old one today it appears to be M10 X 1mm pitch. A new one is now ordered.

You are probably right. Unfortunately M10 sender's are fine (1mm) pitch, which means it is almost the same as an 1/8 inch NPT (0.95mm). Diameters too are also very similar. I think I'll just pull it out and measure it properly. Thanks

The temperature gauge sender on my Isuzu 35 engine appears to have failed. Does anyone know the thread size of this sender so I can buy the correct replacement? Basic measurement tells me it is either 1/8 inch NPT or M10 but it is very hard to check it accurately enough in situ to work out which one. Thanks

"The Unlikely Voyage of Jack de Crow" by Andy McKinnon had already been mentioned and is probably my all time favourite travel book. Another good read covering a voyage to the Black Sea is Tristan Jones "Improbable voyage" - though when reading it one should remember the author was well known as a raconteur who reinvented his own life so it's probably not 100% factual.

I very recently had one alternator fail due to worn brushes and slip ring. A quick check of the identical second alternator showed it only slightly better - so getting both rebuilt at the same time made sense.

Stepping off the boat today onto the marina pontoon with my glasses pushed up over the forehead - and watching them fall forward and drop gently in the water.

Droitwich Spa Marina has an area.

Tracy, Tony. Thankyou both for your quick replies. I'll check them in the next few days (currently I'm away from base. At the moment I have simply rewired so the other alternator is now charging both domestic and starter batteries). All the best.

I have an Isuzu 35 engine fitted with two 70A Lucas A127 alternators. A couple of days ago I noticed the warning light from the domestic alternator did not always come on when starting the engine, butappeared when I switched off the engine - and batteries charged during running. Today the light stays off all the time and the alternator has stopped charging (confirmed with a clamp meter). There is 13 v at the field excitation circuit when I check. My suspicion is brushes have worn out - is this a reasonable first diagnosis? The engine and alternators have done about 1300 hours work

I believe I read that licence fee only raises about 20% of the cost of running the network. Therefore I presume a substantial part of the remaining funds come from central government. In that case the general taxpayer is already paying heavily for the network so I would have thought they deserve good footpaths as much as licence payers deserve good locks. Also I would have thought the more people who regularly walk/cycle the towpath the more defenders of the network there will be and that will be to everyone's benefit.