IDS

Thanks for that Tony. I'll get the spanners out then.

The gauge is 2" std. My sender seems to be 1.7k at 20 C. Dont know if this is US or Euro std, cant find a spec for either. Looks like thornycroft added the sensor to the thermostat housing then buried it under a load of brackets making it difficult to access, so don't know what thread it's likely to be without a bit of dismantling, which is why it would be good to find a matching gauge.

Has anybody managed to find a replacement temperature gauge for the original supply temperature gauge in the control panel for a Thornycroft T95 engine (mitsubishi base S4L). These panels appear to have been supplied by Pricol. Mine is defective and reads high , 50 C even when not connected to sensor !

So you really do have a mystery 5 A drain. That's quite a lot. You now have an in circuit ammeter that you know works, so start by taking off each positive lead going to your battery bank until the 5A drain stops. Then follow that cable !

Assuming your sense leads are normally connected to a shunt ( a fat conductor inserted in series with your battery negative lead), then after you disconnect them from the shunt connect them to each other and check your meter still shows zero.

Another vote for Gayton (but no experience of the others) - helpful and friendly staff. Discount for moorers in chandlery, pump out, gas etc. I trust their fuel as they have a high turnover with their own fleet, and share boats.

Baseplate and sides to top rubbing strake.

Debdale zinc sprayed our 1988 boat just over 5 years ago, the first boat they did with their new equipment, then applied 2 pack. We had an out of water hull survey done 2 years ago where the surveyor was very happy with the result 3 years on from spraying, all existing corrosion had been arrested and the zinc showed no sign of wear or de-laminating. (hammer tested) We had been considering another coat of 2 pack as we were 3 years on from what Debdale had done, but the surveyor said don't bother. May have another look next year sometime, but in the meantime we're very happy, and our hull should last a lot longer because of its treatment by Debdale.

Clean up the boss near the stern tube, you often find the prop dia and pitch stamped into the brass

Hot water rises and sits at the top of the calorifier, so you don't need to heat the whole tank before hot water is available from the immersion.

I've used a very old roll of flashband ( > 15 yrs I think) onto perforated steel sheet and it worked very well. Applied with the help of a heat gun to soften it and a wallpaper edge roller to settle it in. Try it on a small test area to see if it bonds.

Does it only do it at night? - if so it could be the hot water in the calorifier cooling and contracting reducing the pressure. If the pump only blips on for a very short period it would seem you don't have an accumulator (expansion vessel) fitted ( or if you do have one then it has failed). With an accumulator working correctly then the pump will act for longer but far less frequently, if at all, in these conditions

Had exactly this problem with the Daughters tap, filter in the end of the spout blocked with crud. Needed to unscrew the the end of the spout to get at the filter. Problem is solved by throwing away the plastic filter, retain the wire gauze diffuser.

For the money try one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Mini-Indoor-outdoor-External-electronic-Body-aquarium-Room-thermometer-UK-/123052801572 it's wired but claims to go to 100C

Have you checked there is nothing caught round the prop ?

Don't forget the humble Hydrometer. Cheap as chips, easy to use, and gives a good idea of the state of charge of a lead acid battery. A bit more tedious than just reading a meter, but you get to know your batteries well, cell by cell, if used regularly.

If you have a reputable supplier they should exchange under guarantee if only 4 month old.

I used these people who provide all you need to know to identify belt type required, and calculate length. Also seemed cheap to me (£2.90 for 1 and £1.60 for the other) www.beltingonline.com

Dry mat stuff worked for us. Also drilled a few 30mm holes in the base board, ~ 18 inch spacing

We did Homps to Castlenaudary a couple of years ago on a very leisurely trip with plenty of time in Carcassonne. We used LeBoat and an 8 berth plastic palace, which had plenty of room for 5 of us. A couple of bikes were useful. Fly to Carcassonne, taxi or bus to Homps, train from Castlenaudary back to Carcassonne. Local bus for transfers to/from Airport/Carcassonne. Very enjoyable.

Is it running on AC or DC power? Our domestic 240v AC unit had a failed motor capacitor that prevented the motor starting, it just buzzed feebly. If the blades are mechanically jammed up it buzzes more aggressively until it cuts out thermally. Replacement capacitors from saniflo are extortionate, but equivalents are available (from China !)

If the behaviour is "hit and miss" as you say, it could be a loose electrical connection. With the room stat turned to max and the boiler lit, try moving the wires, in and out and side to side, where they go into the thermostat, the pump, or any connectors associated with them. Listen for the pump starting or stopping as you move the wires. If there is any effect, then get to the actual connection and tighten it up or mend the broken wire.