Big Bob W Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 We have an old Alde 2920 boiler. To be honest, other than firing it up when we first bought the boat, we have never used it in anger - the solid fuel stove is more than adequate. However, I tried it today and it no longer lights reliably. Its one of the old manual push button piezo ignitors. The pilot light ignites, but on releasing the push down thermostat knob, the pilot light goes out. Occasionally, it does stay lit, the burner lights, but then after a few minutes it goes out. Also, not sure if its related, but guess it could be, the wires from the pilot light indicator gauge are not connected - and for the life of me, I can not see where the spade connectors are supposed to connect! I would really appreciate any guidance.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgreg Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) Try holding the knob down for about 20 seconds once the pilot has lit then immediately after releasing it (as fast as you can) turn it up to 4 or 5. Also ensure the circulation pump is switched on or the thermostat on the boiler will shut it down once up to heat. Edited January 24, 2018 by rgreg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 I'd say the pilot flame is too small and the pilot assembly is crudded up (technical term) from lack of use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 1 minute ago, Mike the Boilerman said: I'd say the pilot flame is too small and the pilot assembly is crudded up (technical term) from lack of use. Am I right that these heaters don’t use a thermocouple but rely on the ionisation of the flame for the ffd? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 27 minutes ago, WotEver said: Am I right that these heaters don’t use a thermocouple but rely on the ionisation of the flame for the ffd? Some do, some use a thermocouple. I suspect the open flue version uses a thermocouple, the room sealed one uses ionisation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 Being an expert in these bits of kit, well I'm not really, but I have some experience if messing about with them. It is a thermocouple operation. But as MTB says it's probably debris etc in the workings. Might still be the thermocouple as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bob W Posted January 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 3 hours ago, rgreg said: Try holding the knob down for about 20 seconds once the pilot has lit then immediately after releasing it (as fast as you can) turn it up to 4 or 5. Also ensure the circulation pump is switched on or the thermostat on the boiler will shut it down once up to heat. I have tried that. Pilot light goes out quicker than I can turn the knob! Also, as I said previously, sometimes the pilot and burner do ignite for a few minutes before going out again. 3 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said: I'd say the pilot flame is too small and the pilot assembly is crudded up (technical term) from lack of use. 2 hours ago, Nightwatch said: Being an expert in these bits of kit, well I'm not really, but I have some experience if messing about with them. It is a thermocouple operation. But as MTB says it's probably debris etc in the workings. Might still be the thermocouple as well. Think I will give the pilot assembly a clean. It does look like a good flame whilst the knob is held down though, so possibly a duff thermocouple. Thanks for the advice ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grassman Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 If you fail with starting it up the first time try waiting 4 or 5 minutes before trying again. It's a pain in the neck but this is what I was once told and it does tend to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bob W Posted February 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 I am still struggling with this 'orrible boiler! Have cleaned up the pilot assembly - although didn't seem bad. I have repositioned the thermocouple so it sits a bit more centrally in the pilot flame. I can get it to stay lit and fire up the burners now - albeit somewhat intermittently. When the burners do light, the pilot and burners go out after about 3 mins, then its back to trying to light again. To be honest, I am not that fussed, as I said before, the log burner does the job. But I have a BSS due in about 3 months. Is the examiner going to want to see the boiler running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted February 13, 2018 Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Big Bob W said: To be honest, I am not that fussed, as I said before, the log burner does the job. But I have a BSS due in about 3 months. Is the examiner going to want to see the boiler running? If it is fitted then it will be tested, it will also need to 'run' as one of the BSSC tests is to have EVERY gas appliance running at FULL, (all at the same time) and test the gas pressure. Suggest you either get it repaired or removed completely and the gas pipe correctly capped off. If it cannot be lit then it is considered to be non-compliant and your boat will fail the BSS From the BSS : 8.8 LPG appliance burner operation 8.8.1 Are all LPG appliance burners in good condition and delivering a proper flame? Light all LPG appliance burners and operate them at their maximum setting at the same time. Compare the flame pictures at each burner to the ‘burner flame trouble chart’ at Appendix L. A satisfactory flame picture must be present at each LPG appliance burner when all burners in the system are operating at their maximum setting at the same time. NOTE – in the event any appliance burner cannot be lit mark your checklist ‘not verified’ and note the reason why. In such cases the burner must be considered as non‐compliant until such time as its good condition has been verified. Edited February 13, 2018 by Alan de Enfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bob W Posted February 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 Thanks Alan. That's what I thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted February 13, 2018 Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 1 hour ago, Big Bob W said: When the burners do light, the pilot and burners go out after about 3 mins Sounds like a failing thermocouple to me. Either that or your unauthorised modification of the thermocouple position means it no longer sits in the pilot flame when the main burner is alight. (The extra draught from the main burner running usually shifts the pilot flame position slightly.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bob W Posted February 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 Think I've sorted it. Duff overheating sensor. If I short out the terminals, everything stays alight and tickety boo. Will order replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted February 14, 2018 Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 4 hours ago, Big Bob W said: Think I've sorted it. Duff overheating sensor. If I short out the terminals, everything stays alight and tickety boo. Will order replacement. The other possibility of course, is it is genuinely overheating! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jess-- Posted February 14, 2018 Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 I noticed someone mentioned running the alde set on 4 or 5, with mine set that high it is not far short of boiling the water passing through it. 1-2 seems the best setting on mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgreg Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 8 hours ago, Jess-- said: I noticed someone mentioned running the alde set on 4 or 5, with mine set that high it is not far short of boiling the water passing through it. 1-2 seems the best setting on mine Sometimes mine boils on 5 but this is usually resolved by turning the pump off and back on again. Also if the water level falls too low it tends to boil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 I find I am accasionally required to top up the header tank. (Ours has a tiny drip leak coming from a join between steel and rubber with a 'spring' type clip. I need to replace with a jubilee clip at sometime.) but have said that I'm putting in more water than is dripping out. Evaporation? Martyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Featured Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now