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Arthur Marshall

Painting - brush or roller?

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Going to try some Weathershield on the boat this week. The tin says "brush only", but that might just mean you can't spray it.  Is there any reason why I shouldn't bung it on with a roller (which is much quicker)?

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as you will be aware (you've been around here for a while), there have been many threads extolling the ambidextrous method - roll on, brush out vertically immediately.

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Take a look the Dulux website. There are various paints in the weathershield range, including a one-coat paint, a fast drying gloss and a non-drip gloss which are recommended for exterior metal. I would never use any of these on my boat.

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4 hours ago, pophops said:

Take a look the Dulux website. There are various paints in the weathershield range, including a one-coat paint, a fast drying gloss and a non-drip gloss which are recommended for exterior metal. I would never use any of these on my boat.

Doesn't exactly answer my question, does it? And I'm not using any of those. There was also a thread on here not long back that recommended Weathershield, which is why I'm trying it. 

5 hours ago, Murflynn said:

as you will be aware (you've been around here for a while), there have been many threads extolling the ambidextrous method - roll on, brush out vertically immediately.

I've missed them... And I can't make the search function work. Why would you do that? 

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5 hours ago, Arthur Marshall said:

I've missed them... And I can't make the search function work. Why would you do that? 

 

  • Greenie 1

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Gloss roller. Use big tray but small roller 4". Rolling can induce bubbles so lay off with brush. Not used that paint before but the difficulty is keeping a consistent wet edge in warm weather. Yesterday in the wet dock it hit 35c. So started at 7.50 when the temp was 9c and finished when 22c.

I used brush only on rear part of roof as lots of cutting in but roller/brush on sides (varnishing). 

Dont forget use a good brush and use bq cheap plastic paint kettles, keep stirring. Tac rags and panel wipe are your friends plus latex gloves. Be very organised. Two thin coats are better than one stodgy coat.

 

 

Edited by mark99

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Small point but when I contacted Dulux recently asking about the suitability of Dulux Metalshield for use on canal boats their response was somewhat negative and actually referred me to their marine department-International Paints. I personally, cynically, am not sure whether this was solely due to possible litigation potential or their lack of faith in their Dulux range for our purposes. I have read in the forum of other contributors who certainly appear to have successfully used Dulux. In my building business we`ve used both roller and brush successfully

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there is no possible reason why the cabin of a boat in a fresh water situation should not be painted using the same paint as you would use on your garage door.

of course they will refer us rich boat owners to International - that's the business model.

 

  • Greenie 1

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Weathershield is permeable to vapour. Not sure re International.

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8 hours ago, Arthur Marshall said:

Doesn't exactly answer my question, does it? And I'm not using any of those. There was also a thread on here not long back that recommended Weathershield, which is why I'm trying it. 

The point I was making (and I was trying to be helpful) was that just because it says Dulux Weathershield on the tin it doesn't automatically mean it's suitable for the extremes of weather and temperature that a boat is exposed to.

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Ive seen a couple of weathershield paint jobs and they looked very good however only time will tell.

 

My personal view is that its a hell of an effort to paint a boat not something you want to do again in a hurry so why try to gamble on a hunch on materials even the manu. Won't recommend. How much saving is there to be had?

 

 

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Just finished topcoat *2 on rear (Craftmaster Raddle Red). Quite a tough paint. No roller but good quality brush only. (Undercoat was rolled).

 

20170408_090754_resized_zpshsbqwgux.jpg

Edited by mark99

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6 minutes ago, Traveller said:

Painted our boat a couple of years ago with Weathershield oil based. Used a 4 inch roller, laying off with a brush. Still looking good.

That's the stuff I'm using. It's never going to be a perfect finish - boat's too old and battered for that. I'm just doing the bit between the bitumen and the catwalk. Looks OK so far and hoping for good  weather this week to get it finished. 

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2 minutes ago, Arthur Marshall said:

That's the stuff I'm using. It's never going to be a perfect finish - boat's too old and battered for that. I'm just doing the bit between the bitumen and the catwalk. Looks OK so far and hoping for good  weather this week to get it finished. 

Have been using it for years and have no complaints. The finish is always acceptable (could never be great as it is an outdoor paint job) and it has always lasted well for me.

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12 hours ago, pophops said:

............................................. the extremes of weather and temperature that a boat is exposed to.

?? please clarify, with respect to a typical canal boat.

how are these extremes any different to those affecting any other outdoor steel object in the same locality?

Edited by Murflynn

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33 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

?? please clarify, with respect to a typical canal boat.

how are these extremes any different to those affecting any other outdoor steel object in the same locality?

They are not and I didn't say they were.

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1 hour ago, Murflynn said:

so what exactly was the point of your comment?

I was trying to point out to the OP that Dulux make a number of different paint types under the Weathershield banner and not all of them are suitable for his purpose. For instance the non-drip gloss cannot be applied with a roller or over-spread with a brush or it will run and sag. There are also Weathershield smooth and textured masonry paints - both totally unsuitable for painting steel.

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err  .......................... why would you (or anyone else) expect 'masonry paint' (which is only an emulsion paint) to be suitable for painting steel.  

and alternatively, why would you (or anyone else) expect any paint sold under the banner 'Weathershield' to necessarily be suitable for painting steel.

I'm sure anyone planning to spend maybe £50 on paint for the boat will look further than the banner 'Weathershield', or do you believe some of us are total numpties?

 

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The Dulux Weathershield range used to include a superb oil-based gloss which, at least when new, rain water used to just fall off. But no longer.

I now use Dulux Trade High Gloss, which is oil based, and available from Dulux Decorator Centres and other trade paint outlets, but is not usually on sale in the DIY sheds.

 

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I used Weathershield oil based gloss. True they have gone water based  but oil based Weathershield is still obtainable from trade outlets. Certainly Paint Direct sell it, but it is getting harder to find :-(

Is the Trade High GLoss a worthy substitute?.

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I may be painting my boat this summer - not certain yet as im very busy but im hoping to get it done . I m looking into the possibility of Tractol paints as theyre made for steel . Not sure yet as i need to do a bit more research  

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31 minutes ago, chubby said:

I may be painting my boat this summer - not certain yet as im very busy but im hoping to get it done . I m looking into the possibility of Tractol paints as theyre made for steel . Not sure yet as i need to do a bit more research  

No need for research imo only if you deviate from products specifically aimed for steel boats/marine.

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I`ve a problem!!!!! My sailaway was primed using 2 pack Selemix high build anti corrosive epoxy. Having made enquiries earlier today I received a reply saying quote

"The only system I could defiantly guarantee compatibility with the Selemix primer is the Selemix topcoat 7-512." However I was also told and again I quote

"Selemix paint chemist, who has advised 7-512 can be roller applied but as its intended to be spray applied we could not guarantee the level of finish you will achieve if applied via roller."

So I either pay out to have my top coats sprayed. Have the existing primer blasted off or take a chance with another manufacturers paint and see if there is an adverse reaction. Bit of a conundrum!!! Any advice???

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