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Ford diesel engin instal help !


Sjpbikes

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Hiya peeps

Looking for advice / help on instaling a ford fiesta engine ( xld) endura enging in to my grp boat

 

Ashuming i nee to reenforce the hull botttom but hm and with what ? Could i glass in ply on the hull ? Then ad engin stringers on top of that ?

Any help greatfull !!

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If it had an inboard engine before it should have engine beds or pads that may need modifying to get the height right for a different engine.

 

If it had an outboard then you need to fit engine beds (long strips of perhaps 3" by x" timber glassed to the hull in-line with the boat) that you can sit and secure the engine to. However in this case it is Lilley to upset the trim to a considerable extent so make sure that you have room for lots of ballast in the front of the boat.

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Cool so no neet to re enforce the base as such just the bearers ?

 

Had a outbort but boat atm is a hull n top only tolay riped out

Sorry forgot to say thank u !!

Have aprox 5 ft from trans to cabin so more than enof room to fit

2nd question how the fk do i lift the motor that hi in to the hull !!

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Cool so no neet to re enforce the base as such just the bearers ?

 

Had a outbort but boat atm is a hull n top only tolay riped out

Sorry forgot to say thank u !!

Have aprox 5 ft from trans to cabin so more than enof room to fit

2nd question how the fk do i lift the motor that hi in to the hull !!

I'd say just fibre glass them well in. Unless your fitting an outdrive you will also need a shaft log with stuffing gland for the prop shaft to pass through and either a P or A bracket under the boat to carry the tail end of the prop shaft, these can be had with rubber water lubricated cutless bearings.

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Unless you go for an outdrive you will need to fit a rudder and the outer end of the propshaft will portably require an A or P bracket to support it.

 

By the time you take the distance from transom to rudder off your 5ft, the length of the engine and gearbox, plus an allowance for working space in front of the engine I think that you will not have much room left so the shaft will have to be at a very steep angle and it may be too much of an angle for the engine. If you think steep angle on the shaft, nearly horizontal engine with a flexible coupling the all suitable flexible couplings will just take up even more length.

 

I suspect using an outdrive may be simpler. Enfield outdrives are agricultural and arguably best sited to canal work.

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Aaa ok brade be ok ?

Luck i was going to glass in plastic fuel lines tho the ull the other day !!

Will have a read in a sec

Thanks guys u love are helping alot !!!

Braid is maybe ok, BUT there are strict requirements about fuel pipe markings "Fuel feed, return and on‐engine hoses must be marked, to denote both suitability for the fuel used and fire resistance, to BS EN ISO 7840 or an equivalent standard."

Metal pipes must not have soft soldered joints etc etc.

Fuel filters are not allowed 'see through' bowls unless they comply and normal truck types do not comply.

 

Have a read of the link I sent you earlier, and remember it is NOT a construction guide it is an examiners check list.

Edited by Chewbacka
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If it is straight out of a car you will need to do a fair bit of work to the engine to actually 'marinise' it.

 

This company :

 

https://www.lancingmarine.com/pricebook2013/page5.html

 

Can supply all of the parts you need from 'cooling' to 'fuel' systems to gearbox etc etc.

 

It may actually work out cheaper( and much 'easier') for you to buy a ready marinised engine (and sell yours to them for marinising)

 

The marinising 'kit' for the XLD is about £1300

 

Engine mounting brackets for the XLD will be about £200.

 

https://www.lancingmarine.com/pricebook2013/page11.html

 

You will then need a bell-housing / flywheel conversion a gear-box with shaft & prop, or an 'outdrive'

The 'connecting' parts for the engine to outdrive are £370, then you have the cost of the outdrive itself.

 

I reckon the cost of 'parts' to get your engine 'up & running' will be around the £3000+ mark (inc outdrive) + labour and + other 'bits and bobs'

 

It will alter the whole 'trim' of the boat and the engine will need 'counter balancing' with some concrete ballast 'up-front'.

 

Where are you going to put the fuel tank ? You will again need to counter balance the weight of the tank & fuel.

 

You will now need a starter battery and associated wiring (more weight in the back of the boat)

 

All fuel and electrical installations must be safe and undertaken to 'the rules'.

 

It is not something to be taken lightly - are you sure you cannot 'live' with the outboard ?

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Lol have a out drive , back end kit ect have a few people i know that have other bits im getting aswell tank in theary is up front battery n wireing will ok as make looms all the time for bikes n trikes gona print off the bss stuff later if my printer plays ball !

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Lol have a out drive , back end kit ect have a few people i know that have other bits im getting aswell tank in theary is up front battery n wireing will ok as make looms all the time for bikes n trikes gona print off the bss stuff later if my printer plays ball !

That's the problem - unlike a 'face to face discussion', asking questions on the internet tends to lead to a 'drip feed' of information.

 

It would have saved time if we had been given the full story at the outset.

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Braid is maybe ok, BUT there are strict requirements about fuel pipe markings "Fuel feed, return and on‐engine hoses must be marked, to denote both suitability for the fuel used and fire resistance, to BS EN ISO 7840 or an equivalent standard."

Metal pipes must not have soft soldered joints etc etc.

Fuel filters are not allowed 'see through' bowls unless they comply and normal truck types do not comply.

 

Have a read of the link I sent you earlier, and remember it is NOT a construction guide it is an examiners check list.

The Ford injectors can only be fitted with flexible pipe - they are plastic bodied with and do not have a thread in the body like BMC, Kubota, Isuzu, Perkins etc.

From memory the leak off rail tails are 1/8", you will struggle to find 7840 pipe in that dimension.

The BSS fudges this by allowing a suitable manufacturers OEM pipe as there are lots of ford powered craft about.

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