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Merlin Smartgauge specifications and accuracy


nicknorman

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OR.... Never mind all that, just use the leccy until the gauge is getting low, then recharge until the gauge is full or nearly so. Simples!

 

If only it were that simple - look at this thread: http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=81870&hl=. The OP (of that thread) can't charge until the gauge is full, because he physically doesn't have the time, respecting the 8pm-8am rule. Knowing what comes out, and goes in, is arguably more important in that case. It might be he can reduce the amount of power consumed, for example, which would solve the issue equally as well as more charging. It might be his charger is woefully underspecified - easy to determine with an ammeter, a bit more protracted with a Smartgauge. After all, 100A alternator does not equal, 100A going in all the time (for example)!!

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It will be interesting to he what if anything he says about it.

 

 

Daniel

Well, as you know, he's no longer directly involved since he sold the rights. He's also physically a long way from Merlin. However, he has daily dealings with them.

 

All we know at present is that Merlin have no comment as they have yet to receive a single mis-calibrated SmartGauge back to them. Presumably Tommy's will arrive soon.

 

Tony

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Until there is some evidence then yes, I do disbelieve your assertion that there are 'several'. Provide the evidence and I will then believe it.

 

 

I have never said that. I would have no way of knowing that. I don't know where they are manufactured, nor in what quantities, nor how often.

 

I have said that there appear to be a few recently that are out of calibration based on some of the posts on here but I have absolutely no knowledge of such a situation.

 

My apologies it was your cohort

 

ETA lol it was both of you http://www.canalworl...81392&p=1738180

Edited by Graham.m
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If only it were that simple - look at this thread: http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=81870&hl=. The OP (of that thread) can't charge until the gauge is full, because he physically doesn't have the time, respecting the 8pm-8am rule. Knowing what comes out, and goes in, is arguably more important in that case. It might be he can reduce the amount of power consumed, for example, which would solve the issue equally as well as more charging. It might be his charger is woefully underspecified - easy to determine with an ammeter, a bit more protracted with a Smartgauge. After all, 100A alternator does not equal, 100A going in all the time (for example)!!

Yeabut if you can't put in what you take out, you just reduce what you take out until it matches. You don't need to get all scientific about it. It's a bit like my belly but in reverse, when I get too fat, I just eat less, I don't measure every gram. Well that's the theory anyway!

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I hate to butt in but are 'we' missing the fact of why and for what use the Smartgauge was designed.

 

It was designed to be a simple aid for the non technical to know when and how long to charge the battery bank.

 

It, in my opinion, does this very well.

 

Now if you want the all singing technical model that is available.

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I hate to butt in but are 'we' missing the fact of why and for what use the Smartgauge was designed.

 

It was designed to be a simple aid for the non technical to know when and how long to charge the battery bank.

 

It, in my opinion, does this very well.

 

Now if you want the all singing technical model that is available.

Spot on, Bottle.

 

Those folk who say "But it doesn't do..." simply demonstrate that they're not the target demographic.

 

Tony

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I don't think you necessarily have to be a dummy to be in the market for a Smartgauge.

 

You may know almost everything about batteries, and be quite capable of working out the SoC, but don't want to waste time and get dirty when all you need to do is look at the Smartgauge reading.

 

It really is a fuel gauge for a tank of electricity, as NN says

 

I will be very interested to hear the results of the test on Tommy's SG, and it will be very much in Merlin's interests to publish them. If it's not faulty, that will be good to know, but if it is, and they hold their hands up and admit it, and say what they are going to do to about it, then that will go a long way to restore confidence.

 

Nothing, and no company, and no product is perfect.

  • Greenie 1
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I don't think you necessarily have to be a dummy to be in the market for a Smartgauge.

 

You may know almost everything about batteries, and be quite capable of working out the SoC, but don't want to waste time and get dirty when all you need to do is look at the Smartgauge reading.

 

It really is a fuel gauge for a tank of electricity, as NN says

 

I will be very interested to hear the results of the test on Tommy's SG, and it will be very much in Merlin's interests to publish them. If it's not faulty, that will be good to know, but if it is, and they hold their hands up and admit it, and say what they are going to do to about it, then that will go a long way to restore confidence.

 

Nothing, and no company, and no product is perfect.

 

Good post. Greenie for you sir smile.png

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My Take on how to read a Smart Gauge.

Battery takes a long time to run down-- takes a long time to charge = all good.

Battery takes a short time to run down-- takes a long time to charge = heavy drain on battery. (using to much power)

Battery takes a short time to run down -- takes a short time to charge = battery has reduced capacity. (battery at end of life, needs replacing)

Smart Gauges tell it as it is, you may not like what they say, but are almost unknown to be wrong.

It won't tell you if, only 1 battery in a bank is duff, only that the bank has a problem.

A hydrometer is the only way of checking each cell in each battery. (assuming Wet Lead Acid battery)

 

Bod

  • Greenie 1
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My Take on how to read a Smart Gauge.

Battery takes a long time to run down-- takes a long time to charge = all good.

Battery takes a short time to run down-- takes a long time to charge = heavy drain on battery. (using to much power)

Battery takes a short time to run down -- takes a short time to charge = battery has reduced capacity. (battery at end of life, needs replacing)

Smart Gauges tell it as it is, you may not like what they say, but are almost unknown to be wrong.

It won't tell you if, only 1 battery in a bank is duff, only that the bank has a problem.

A hydrometer is the only way of checking each cell in each battery. (assuming Wet Lead Acid battery)

 

Bod

Yup, sums it up well. smile.png

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I don't think you necessarily have to be a dummy to be in the market for a Smartgauge.

 

You may know almost everything about batteries, and be quite capable of working out the SoC, but don't want to waste time and get dirty when all you need to do is look at the Smartgauge reading.

I dont have one, but if I did buy I one it would not be because I cant for instance, take 'daily off load voltages' in the morning* and compare them. I would be because I didnt want to, I just wanted a vague idea of where I was in terms of SoC without having to have done all of that.

 

*That is in fact what I currently if we are doing a number of days in one place and considering running a generator.

 

Obviously this does place quite a reliance on the single device, and while I have a couple of digital multimeters I could use to check the calibration I would rather hope that for the price it would be near enough spot on.

 

 

Daniel

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Yes Dan, it's a shame that Tommy's example has put a bit of a question mark about their calibration. It's the first one I've heard of like that, and with any luck it's an isolated case. Merlin don't yet have it, so are unable to comment. Of course, if the 'other ones' that are alleged to be around get returned to Merlin, then it becomes a more serious issue - purchasers shouldn't have to check that it's in calibration, it just 'should be'.

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Yes Dan, it's a shame that Tommy's example has put a bit of a question mark about their calibration. It's the first one I've heard of like that, and with any luck it's an isolated case. Merlin don't yet have it, so are unable to comment. Of course, if the 'other ones' that are alleged to be around get returned to Merlin, then it becomes a more serious issue - purchasers shouldn't have to check that it's in calibration, it just 'should be'.

 

Agreed.

 

I have always thought it appear to be a good product, certainly reviews on here appeared good and Gibbos posts where also convincing of its ability and typically very much 'on-the-ball' if often quite technical. Would be a shame if there was an issue with quality time will tell I guess.

 

If I had £250 I could justify spending out of curiosity, or was living on the boat 'off grid' so to speak I would be all over the opportunity to get a SmartGauge and a Victron or similar AH counter.

However we actually have no little battery charge issues (large bank, moving the boat for 10 hours basically every day we're on board) any gauge at all is basically totally superfluous. We get about 8-10years out of a set of generic exide/varta/etc 'leisure batteries' and run all we need already.

 

 

Daniel

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Arguments aside, it seems to me that people with battery problems often lack a decent understanding of the battery charge and discharge cycle and the important aspects thereof.

 

Smartgauge is at least a partial solution, but not always a full solution as the recent topic on Tommy's battery problems shows.

 

By the way, there are reasonably accurate 5 digit voltmeters available on eBay for just a few pounds, as well as clamp ammeters that can read DC amps for as little as £25. For the boating novice that would prefer to have guaranteed power, is it too much to ask for them to purchase and use such items to help gain an understanding of their batteries?

 

cheers, Pete.

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