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Rust at waterline


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I would agree that, to me, it looks like not a lot of perhaps not very good paint and likely fairly poor prep, non of which is uncommon sadly. Obviously we don't know what was agreed with the builder, and as little have been mentioned of this (aka, you have not said, 'I was told it would be...' or 'I paid extra for...' or the like) I expect you will little our of them.

- However what you can do is ask them if the steel was 'pickled and oiled' or just raw with mill-scale, and what prep was done if any. You can also then go on to, if you want, suggest that had they made you more aware of what you where buying you might have paid extra for a better job. Does no harm.

 

 

Originally EmilyAnne used two-pack epoxy, having been shot blasted and primed in epoxy blast primer, however a number of years (before my time) we (my granddad) was advised by the paint supplier we would like find there one-pot vinyl underwater coating to be as good. We have used it ever since and I must say its done us very well, both times the hull (not 26yo) has been surveyed and any time any has seen us going onto dock we have ways had very positive comments.

 

 

This is the paint we now use

- Currently £50 for 5l, which will do one coat on the sides a 58ft boat.

http://www.leighspaintsonline.co.uk/resistex-m535-pitch-free-underwater-coating-103-p.asp

 

*Leighs paints (Bolton) have recently been taken over by american company Shewin Williams, but the paint and distribution remains the same.

 

 

 

Daniel

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This is the paint we now use

- Currently £50 for 5l, which will do one coat on the sides a 58ft boat.

http://www.leighspaintsonline.co.uk/resistex-m535-pitch-free-underwater-coating-103-p.asp

 

*Leighs paints (Bolton) have recently been taken over by american company Shewin Williams, but the paint and distribution remains the same.

 

 

 

Daniel

 

Can it be applied over bitumin paints or is blasting necessary?

Edited by Traveller
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Can it be applied over bitumin paints or is blasting necessary?

You would have to talk to the supplier to confirm that to be honest.

I don't know the product but I doubt there's much point painting it over bitumen. A paint system will only ever be as good as its weakest link.

I guess it depends on the state of bitumen, but yes indeed.

 

 

Daniel

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  • 10 months later...

Looks like you'd shotblast first

Interesting that it states when bitumen cannot be used. Does that mean it's inferior? or just an alternative?

Thought i'd give this thread a bump as this might be a good and well priced product, any thoughts?

Sherwin-Williams Macropoxy® M535 Pitch Free Underwater Coating

 

Material Type: Single pack, pitch free, vinyl copolymer resin based underwater coating

Recommended Use: Provides anticorrosive protection when applied onto blast cleaned steel.
To be used in situations where coal tar pitch products are excluded on health and safety grounds
or where bleed through of pitch into topcoats is not acceptable.
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You could try adding more weight till the rust spot is under by an inch then you can deny its there?

 

You could on a propper note take some weight out rub it down with electric wire brush and re paint it with bitchemin till you manage to retreat it properly

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just a thought - may be a silly idea but could you tie a few barrels to the side of a boat then pump canal water into them to list the boat to clean and re paint the waterline, empty them then repeat on the other side? or would you be putting the boat at risc of turning over? i was just thinking maybe a few inches out the water at most?

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just a thought - may be a silly idea but could you tie a few barrels to the side of a boat then pump canal water into them to list the boat to clean and re paint the waterline, empty them then repeat on the other side? or would you be putting the boat at risc of turning over? i was just thinking maybe a few inches out the water at most?

This is your best bet or remove some weight

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