battening out

[Neil Smith]

Hi all,

 

This is aimed at those that have fitted out there boat from a bare shell, I have fitted all the celotex insulation and am about to batten it, do I just fix to the 2 angles that run the length or put in vertical battens every 2 foot for hull and cabin sides, the roof I will run from front to back.

 

Neil

[DeanS]

Hi Neil.

Look at the blog link in my signature...there are some pics of the battening our boat came with...as a sailaway...I think.

 

Here's me doing the sides

 

Edited December 21, 2014 by DeanS

[koukouvagia]

Hi all,

 

This is aimed at those that have fitted out there boat from a bare shell, I have fitted all the celotex insulation and am about to batten it, do I just fix to the 2 angles that run the length or put in vertical battens every 2 foot for hull and cabin sides, the roof I will run from front to back.

 

Neil

 

I know you are using a different method of insulation, but in my experience you can't have too many battens. The more you have, the straighter and firmer the walls and ceiling will be.

 

[Chalky]

Before I fitted the cabin side lining I fitted all of the electrical back boxes and conduit to the cabin sides using building adhesive. I then fitted the battening onto the cabin sides before I fitted the insulation. It was made up of 2" * 1" tanalized timber and was attached the the cabin sides with building adhesive. It was made up of horizontal and vertical strips to form "boxes" and the insulation was fitted into the boxes. I used fire retardant spray foam to fill in any gaps in the insulation.

 

On the hull sides I fitted the 2" thick insulation first then attached 3" * 1" tanalized timber to the hull ribs. I put a thin layer of insulation under the timber. I used self drilling screws to attach the timber to the steel work which saved a huge amount of time.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/timco-classic-c-1022-steel-wing-tip-self-drill-roofing-screw-5-5-x-50-pk200/92236

[onionbargee]

On my shell I just fitted out, all the steel framing was dripping with condensation, there's no way I would put softwood battens touching the steelwork. I used sawn up reclaimed hardwood flooring with strips of moisture barrier sheeting behind it. All the box section is filled with foam.

[Neil Smith]

Chalky when you say hull ribs do you mean vertical or horizontal, and re cabin sides did you fix directly to side plate or to stiffening angles.

Neil

[Chalky]

I had vertical ribs down most of the hull and a couple of horizontal ones round the swim. I attached to whatever steelwork there was. On the cabin I fixed to strengtheners is there ware any there and then stuck on the rest. For the roof I attached to the strengtheners - I made sure that I used "wet" timber for the roof since it would bend. This usually meant buying timber from the front of the display at Wickes which had only just been pressure treated, the timber at the back had been there longer and had dried out.

[system 4-50]

http://www.ashbyboats.com/MeashBatt.htm

Their pics may be of interest?

[Neil Smith]

Thanks for advice, will crack on tomorrow with it.

 

Neil

[Neil Smith]

Hi again,

 

On the ceiling battens should I space them 12" 16" or 24" apart for either 6mm or 9mm ply.

 

Neil

[Bee]

I use roofing battens from any timber yard, they are tanalised and not too dear. plain softwood is not so good, fix as many as you can to everything you can find to fix to, I use self tappers, others will have their own preferences.

[Neil Smith]

I have the treated roof battens but at what spacings do I fix them 12" 16" or 24".

 

Neil

[DeanS]

I work in metric.....

I'd say about 60cm apart at least...not wider than that...

 

 

eta 60cm is 24inches.....

Edited December 23, 2014 by DeanS

[Owengriffiths]

I recently battened out and struggled above the gunwhale as there was no steel; stuck the battens on with sikaflex and in one case i needed to remove and i cant get the thing off the glue is so strong, so dont worry about using glue!

[Neil Smith]

I am going to use teks screws by spitz as my son got them foc, but will glue aswell belt an braces and all that. I was going to do the ceiling at 24" spacings but that would only be one in the middle and one each edge, would that not make it look like a peak and not a curve to match the roof profile.

 

Neil

[Robbo]

I have the treated roof battens but at what spacings do I fix them 12" 16" or 24".

 

Neil

 

On the roof I would use 16"

[Neil Smith]

Yes that's what I thought in the middle.

 

Neil

[system 4-50]

I've put up a picture of mine.

[Neil Smith]

That looks like 16" spaces to me, what is the sterling board for.

 

Neil

[Naughty Cal]

I have the treated roof battens but at what spacings do I fix them 12" 16" or 24".

 

Neil

Surely the size that your facing boards (or what ever you plan to face up with) comes in will dictate where you need the battens?

[system 4-50]

That looks like 16" spaces to me, what is the sterling board for.

 

Neil

I used 4 of these to hold up the battens and maintain a regular spacing while I screwed them. Made the screwing a doddle. I migrated them down the boat as I went. They are not a permanent feature. I haven't done the final panelling yet - I have just covered the sprayfoam with 8ft x 4ft hardboard to protect it from UV from the sun while I build my shower.

[David Mack]

I was going to do the ceiling at 24" spacings but that would only be one in the middle and one each edge, would that not make it look like a peak and not a curve to match the roof profile.

 

Better to fit curved transverse battens to the underside of the roof ribs, and that will define the curved shape for the lining panels. You have to do that anyway if you are lining out with t&g boards.

[Neil Smith]

Naughty cal, that's why I gave 3 options as the ply is 48" wide so will devide by all 3, sorry I did not say I was using ply.

David, I want to run my cables down each side of roof so will be easier to go along the battens, and a lot easier as you have to make hundreds of cuts along battens.

 

Neil