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Ammeter fitting...help please.


ROBDEN

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Morning all.

 

I would like to fit a digital ammeter to only monitor the alternator output but I’m confused over which one to get. I’ve done several forum searches but that just made matters worse.Especially where to put the shunt if I need one.

 

I don’t want much, just the best quality, cheap as chips and the easiest to install...Yeah right.

I’ll settle for the middle of the road then.

 

Battery bank: 440 amps.

 

Alternator: Not sure, either 90 amp or 110 amp…..either were fitted but not marked.

 

My ability: Average.

 

Any help or advice will be much appreciated.

 

Rob….

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90/110 isn't different enough to make a lot of difference. You need an ammeter that has more range than the maximum output anyway - there are 150A meters and shunts available

 

Why do you want to do this? It seems an odd number to measure when you could use the meter to measure the battery bank charging and discharging

 

Richard

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90/110 isn't different enough to make a lot of difference. You need an ammeter that has more range than the maximum output anyway - there are 150A meters and shunts available

 

Why do you want to do this? It seems an odd number to measure when you could use the meter to measure the battery bank charging and discharging

 

Richard

Hello Richard.

 

What do you mean "an odd number"?

 

I want to do this so I know when to reduce the rev's when charging the batteries at different socs.

I've been using a clamp meter but it's a pain having to keep lifting the engine covers every time I want to know something.

Also I'd like to know what's happening whilst on the move.

 

Rob....

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ROB... There are a few monitoring systems about as i am sure you have seen whilst whilst searching.Not generally cheap but will provide more useful information than just alternator current, such as ,chargeing current and voltage,state of charge,current being drawn,amphour counter and battery voltage all of which you can use to decide when to charge and how much is needed to fully charge. I personally have the sterling battery monitor which i would not now want to be without,there are others i know who use other sytems to the same effect so i am not promoting any one product. These comercial systems will also come with fitting instructions so should make instalation possible with a little pactical ability.As ive said these are not generally cheap.I am not sure why you just want to moitor alternator output but if that is the case, a much cheaper method with other uses is to purchase a clamp meter,which is simply placed around the cable you wish to measure and it will read off the current flow in it.If you look at these (plenty to see on "tinternet") BEWARE many of them,usually the very cheap,do not measure DC Current.Check also the value of current measurable,in your case to cover 110amps.

All a bit longwinded but hopefully of some use.........klim

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I did something like this. Bought an ammeter from ebay, very cheap. just be aware that these cheap ones will not measure the current from the supply source. ie don't try to use the boat's 12 volt to power it, you must run it from a separate 9V battery. I've put in switch to turn it on and off.

The shunt just goes in the line from the alternator to the battery.

Bob

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Hello Richard.

 

What do you mean "an odd number"?

 

I want to do this so I know when to reduce the rev's when charging the batteries at different socs.

I've been using a clamp meter but it's a pain having to keep lifting the engine covers every time I want to know something.

Also I'd like to know what's happening whilst on the move.

 

Rob....

 

Odd in that you only know the alternator output current. Bung the shunt in the right place and it will tell you that and the discharge current when the engine is off

 

Richard

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Don't bother with a cheap ammeter from ebay/China, they are a waste of time. Go for a proper battery monitor from a reputable company eg NASA BM1, Victron BMV, Sterling do one too, and there's the Smartgauge too (I know its not an ammeter but...)

 

This is based on 3x failed attempts to get a working ammeter from Chinese suppliers on eBay........

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Odd in that you only know the alternator output current. Bung the shunt in the right place and it will tell you that and the discharge current when the engine is off

 

Richard

the only problem with that is the discharge current could be a lot greater that the charge current so you mist over spec the shunt to account for this.

Bob

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Don't bother with a cheap ammeter from ebay/China, they are a waste of time. Go for a proper battery monitor from a reputable company eg NASA BM1, Victron BMV, Sterling do one too, and there's the Smartgauge too (I know its not an ammeter but...)

 

This is based on 3x failed attempts to get a working ammeter from Chinese suppliers on eBay........

Paul.

I have a Smartgauge fitted to tell me what I've used.

 

Rob....

 

ETA...Maybe add a smartbank?

Edited by ROBDEN
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On ours the current I measure is from a 90 amp alternator, I can pull 150 + amps from that bank at times.

Bob

 

Ouch! Poor little batteries! Our max draw is around 80A, that's using the microwave. When something like that is on, I'm well aware of its current draw anyway, and how long its on for, and the possible effects on the battery bank.

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Paul.

I have a Smartgauge fitted to tell me what I've used.

 

Rob....

 

Does the smartgauge not show that with the engine on, the batteries are gradually being recharged?

 

Maybe a DC clamp ammeter would be a better tool, if its just to ad-hoc check current flows.

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Does the smartgauge not show that with the engine on, the batteries are gradually being recharged?

 

Maybe a DC clamp ammeter would be a better tool, if its just to ad-hoc check current flows.

Sg shows the voltage but not the current.

I do use a clamp meter but it's a bit difficult to use when steering the boat

 

Rob....

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Hi ya,

I've done 'Similar' to what you're suggesting, if you look at the Pic below, Far Left you can see my two Alternator feeds, Shunts, and the Cables going straight to my Amp meters.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/olh6wid80iy14ob/2014-04-30%2016.26.29.jpg?dl=0

This indicates to me while at the helm what's going on with my Alternators at any point whilst underway via a quick glance. (Twin Amp meters at top of switch panel, to right of wheel)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t0zkoiwapyugrhs/IMAG0222.jpg?dl=0

If a more in-depth knowledge of what state my Batteries are in, or what charge is going where etc then I take a peek at

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kq2g7cllih5t1uo/2014-04-04%2011.52.42-2.jpg?dl=0

Edited by Paul's Nulife4-2
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Yet another thread where the OP states a specific requirement (in this case just to measure the current input to his battery) and most peeps ignore that; continuing on with suggestions that DONT meet that requirement.

 

Fine; helpful advice - but it can and does confuse.

 

As other have said a simple ammeter and a shunt will do the job as requested - so that's a BM1 as the most cost effective, especially as the eBay imports are said to be junk.

 

(In the longer term it might be a good suggestion to save up and spend some more dosh on a battery management product Sterling, Adverc, et al and (not or) such as the BM1)

Hopefully that qualified advice makes the solution clearer (or not...)

 

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Yet another thread where the OP states a specific requirement (in this case just to measure the current input to his battery) and most peeps ignore that; continuing on with suggestions that DONT meet that requirement.

 

Fine; helpful advice - but it can and does confuse.

 

 

Fair enough - and a piece of experience

 

Many, possibly most, of the work that I do for people isn't what they asked for. Many, many times I turn up to an engine rebuild and end up doing a bleed of the cooling system. If I actually did what my clients asked for 100% of the time I would be rich for a while, then out of work because my reputation would be completely shot

 

Richard

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Yet another thread where the OP states a specific requirement (in this case just to measure the current input to his battery) and most peeps ignore that; continuing on with suggestions that DONT meet that requirement.

 

Fine; helpful advice - but it can and does confuse.

 

As other have said a simple ammeter and a shunt will do the job as requested - so that's a BM1 as the most cost effective, especially as the eBay imports are said to be junk.

 

(In the longer term it might be a good suggestion to save up and spend some more dosh on a battery management product Sterling, Adverc, et al and (not or) such as the BM1)

Hopefully that qualified advice makes the solution clearer (or not...)

 

 

Thankyou very much for that.

 

Rob....

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I know what you're saying Old Goat, But I would welcome suggestions and / or possible Alternative solutions to a problem I had, or wanted to overcome, or things I hadn't thought of. And to be able to Tap into the vast Knowledge that is freely given on here I think is wonderful. Even if you have to filter out 10 or 20 posts to get to the 1 that will work for you.

I tried to answer the specific question, then gave an alternative to suit budget. So I fall in both camps I suppose.

After all, in the OP he also said ' Any help or Advice'

Edited by Paul's Nulife4-2
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