Smartgauge " stuck "' at 76

[chubby]

Tried this .

 

No difference . nothing from alternator .

Am i looking faulty alternator ?

cheers

[nicknorman]

Tried this .

 

No difference . nothing from alternator .

Am i looking faulty alternator ?

cheers

So I presume the warning light and buzzer are remaining on? Well to be honest I'm stumped. How disappointing. I think you will have to get an electrician onto it, unless the forum can suggest anything else.

 

Edit: Are you sure it was connected properly (I'm thinking of corroded connectors)? check for 12v on the green wire at the alternator.

Edited December 19, 2014 by nicknorman

[bizzard]

It could I suppose be rewired temporarily quite easy perhaps with another charge light holder. By running a fresh cable from Alterntor B+ to a domestic battery's pos+. A thin wire from ig switch 'on' position terminal to one side of 6w bulb holder, then another thin wire from bulb holder to w on alternator to excite it.

[chubby]

Cheers Nick

 

Im so grateful for all your help . I m going to go and see the auto electrician who sold the alternator to see if he s able to do call outs etc .

Im sorry i couldn t deliver " a result " as it would ve been very rewarding .

 

Im off to my parents tomorrow . i thought of not going & getting it fixed but it looks unlikely & frankly i could do with a break . Its tried my patience regularly but its looking the boats going to win .

Bugger !

 

cheers again

 

Eta : cheers Bizzard . i think im gonna have to wave the white flag on this one & get someone in . How on earth anyone can make sense of all that mess of wires is beyond me .

cheers

Edited December 19, 2014 by chubby

[bizzard]

It could I suppose be rewired temporarily quite easy perhaps with another charge light holder. By running a fresh cable from Alterntor B+ to a domestic battery's pos+. A thin wire from ig switch 'on' position terminal to one side of 6w bulb holder, then another thin wire from bulb holder to small w terminal on alternator to excite it.

If the alternators ok, this must work.

[nicknorman]

It could I suppose be rewired temporarily quite easy perhaps with another charge light holder. By running a fresh cable from Alterntor B+ to a domestic battery's pos+. A thin wire from ig switch 'on' position terminal to one side of 6w bulb holder, then another thin wire from bulb holder to w on alternator to excite it.

But that bit seems to be working. The warning light is coming on, there is some voltage (1.6) on the D+ ( not W!) terminal that represents the "exciter" current, and with the sense connected it should work.

Cheers Nick

Im so grateful for all your help . I m going to go and see the auto electrician who sold the alternator to see if he s able to do call outs etc .

Im sorry i couldn t deliver " a result " as it would ve been very rewarding .

Im off to my parents tomorrow . i thought of not going & getting it fixed but it looks unlikely & frankly i could do with a break . Its tried my patience regularly but its looking the boats going to win .

Bugger !

cheers again

Eta : cheers Bizzard . i think im gonna have to wave the white flag on this one & get someone in . How on earth anyone can make sense of all that mess of wires is beyond me .

cheers

Just a thought, did you rev the engine a bit before deciding the alternator wasn't working?

[RLWP]

Did we establish what engine this is? I have a Beta manual with wiring diagrams here

 

Richard

[bizzard]

But that bit seems to be working. The warning light is coming on, there is some voltage (1.6) on the D+ ( not W!) terminal that represents the "exciter" current, and with the sense connected it should work.

 

Just a thought, did you rev the engine a bit before deciding the alternator wasn't working?

Well, just a fresh new main cable then from Alt B+ to dom battery pos+ to eliminate dodgy wiring.

[chubby]

I rechecked the wiring

 

ignition on . red lamp on . buzzer sounding .

yellow wire at alternator : 1.57 v

 

yellow black wire at relay switch : 11.8

 

0 v at any other wire .

 

So disappointed . Cup of tea & off to auto electrician . If i get someone in its going to be a big job cos im not prepared to have my electrics looking so messy .

 

cheers

[bizzard]

Well, just a fresh new main cable then from Alt B+ to dom battery pos+ to eliminate dodgy wiring.

I 've often had to do this when wirings been a mess. Isolate old wiring and pop in new.

[RLWP]

Just a thought, did you rev the engine a bit before deciding the alternator wasn't working?

 

BUMP

 

Richard

[chubby]

Cheers Bizzard

 

thing is , i dont know what alternator b+ means . All i know is wire colours relating to the 4 on the relay holder & 2 at the grey harness at the back of the alternator .

A fat red cable at the back of alternator .

 

Theres also a red wire & black wire from somewhere with circular conectors bolted to the body of the alternator .

 

All of these have been put back where i found them & i took photos as i went

 

as i say , very disappointing after so much by you guys & myself

cheers

[RLWP]

Which engine, chubby?

 

Richard

[chubby]

No i didn t rev the engine .i just turned it on

 

Just tried it . Thing is the warning lamp & bulb dont go out , which from what understand means its just not connected

Edited December 19, 2014 by chubby

[RLWP]

No i didn t rev the engine .

 

Go and try again, and rev the engine to excite the alternator

 

Richard

[nicknorman]

I rechecked the wiring

ignition on . red lamp on . buzzer sounding .

yellow wire at alternator : 1.57 v

yellow black wire at relay switch : 11.8

0 v at any other wire .

So disappointed . Cup of tea & off to auto electrician . If i get someone in its going to be a big job cos im not prepared to have my electrics looking so messy .

cheers

Then the temporary wire you put in between the battery and the alternator green wire was not connecting. Try it again, put the wire from battery + into the green wire at the relay base, and then check for 12v at the green wire as it goes into the alternator. If there is not 12v there, then either your new cable is not connecting or there is a break in the green wire, in which case try to put your new wire directly onto the gren wire on the back of the alternator. Try again with 12v on the green wire at the alternator and give the engine a rev. Edited December 19, 2014 by nicknorman

[chubby]

Something is very wrong . All isolators are in . But my toilet isn t flushing now .

 

its going from bad to worse .

[RLWP]

No - it's starting to resolve itself. Whatever it is is beginning to become more obvious

 

WHAT ENGINE DO YOU HAVE

 

Richard

[Eeyore]

Then the temporary wire you put in between the battery and the alternator green wire was not connecting. Try it again, put the wire from battery + into the green wire at the relay base, and then check for 12v at the green wire as it goes into the alternator. If there is not 12v there, then either your new cable is not connecting or there is a break in the green wire, in which case try to put your new wire directly onto the gren wire on the back of the alternator.

Well look at that, I go for a leisurely 5 hour drive from the south coast to the midlands and miss all the excitement!!

Just a little reassurance and some additional information for Chubby.

Everyone is, as they say, singing from the same song sheet.

The alternator being a Mitsubishi type has the terminals for the plug labeled L for lamp and S for sense.

 

The following may not be of immediate use, but it'll probably be needed later.

Here is a diagnosis (or is that description) of the relay base, some of it is from your posting, the rest from the rather large printout of your photo.

PLEASE CORRECT ME IF ANY OF THIS IS WRONG.

 

It is configured to accept a type B relay (Durite link in post No 80 - 2nd item down, 1st part No). I know this because the terminals to the internal contacts (switch) are opposite one another. Just using the Durite link as an example, there are dozens of different makes that do an equivalent.

 

Any reference to a terminal having voltage present or not assumes that a relay is fitted to the base.

 

Red wire corresponds to terminal 30 on the relay, this wire goes into a thicker red connector and then appears to be brown for a short way, ending in a brass ring connector. This ring should be attached to the same terminal as the thick red wire on the alternator. Permanently live (as long as the thick red wire is connected to the domestic battery)

 

Green wire corresponds to terminal 87 on the relay, this wire as you say goes to the grey 2 pin plug via a few connectors and colour changes. Will be 0v with key with off, and domestic battery voltage with key switch on.

 

The two black wires correspond to terminals 85 & 86 on the relay. I don't know which way around they are on the relay base, but it doesn't mater as they are just each end of the operating coil.

One black wire as you know changes colour, and is a feed from the key switch.

The other black wire should be attached to the engine (and/or associated brackets) to give a connection back to battery negative. In some cases this may have been achieved by running the wire all the way to the battery negative terminal.

Steve (Eeyore)

Edited December 19, 2014 by Eeyore

[chubby]

Ok

 

Once again , my sincerest thanks

 

 

Richard : Engines is barrus shire

 

I went to the alternator dealer . He got out a thick catalogue , had a look & has informed this .

 

At the rear of the alternator the two terminals are " labelled " ( as you say eeyore ) L & S .

Lamp & Sense .

Sense is the left hand terminal ( as u look at the back ) .

This requires 12 v .

On my set up this wire is green .

 

His suggestion is to connect a wire from battery to terminal & try . Success means i need a relay .

 

To me , this is the same as Nick suggested & i have tried but still no joy .

Whilst at the alternator dealer i got the contact details for a boat electrician .

 

I really really want to do this myself . I am " emotionally invested " & want to win but im getting flummoxed by the complexity involved in simply recharging a 12 v battery .

 

I really don t know what else i can do & i now have another major problem to deal with .

cheers

Edited December 19, 2014 by chubby

[RLWP]

Do what Nick and the electrician said, and then rev the engine

 

Which Barrus Shire?

 

Richard

[chubby]

Cheers Richard ,

 

I think the paperwork said its " 1601 " . Apart from checking various levels before start up , i don t touch the engine - that i definately do pay for , so im quite ignorant .

 

I ve tried the test i referred to . When i did so it was connective 12 V +ive to the green wire at the relay , which is connected to the green wire ( sense ) at the alternator .

The results were the same . Red lamp stayed on , buzzer stayed on - no increase in voltage at smartgauge

 

cheers

 

im going to try it again .

 

Should i try to connect 12v +ive directly to the alternator , bypassing the relay holder ?

[RLWP]

And revved the engine?

 

Richard

Can you check that engine number please? The manuals with wiring diagrams are on line, 1601 isn't the right format for the engine model

 

Richard

[chubby]

Cheers Richard

 

Dug out " declaration of conformity for a partly completed craft .

 

YANMAR 1603 diesel engine . Serial number 20645 .

 

Cheers

[chubby]

Blimey

 

redid the test . Putting 12 v to green " sense " wire .

Turned engine on

 

nothing

 

Revved to 1200 - 1250 revs .

 

Smartgauge shot up from 12.7 to 14. 2 & buzzer turned off & red lamp gone out .

 

I ve left engine running

14.2 ? still low ?

cheers

Edited December 19, 2014 by chubby