Smartgauge " stuck "' at 76

[chubby]

Cheers Pete

 

For now it seems ok . No problems , batteries at 100 SOC & good voltage , but yesterday evening the problem occured . With no " symptoms " it becomes difficult to ascertain what the problem is / was / might be at a future date .

 

Time for a cuppa tho & a break

cheers again

[Tony Brooks]

Cheers Pete

 

For now it seems ok . No problems , batteries at 100 SOC & good voltage , but yesterday evening the problem occured . With no " symptoms " it becomes difficult to ascertain what the problem is / was / might be at a future date .

 

Time for a cuppa tho & a break

cheers again

 

I note it is very overcast in Reading this morning so little solar. how is it with you? (Rhetorical question).

[smileypete]

Cheers Pete

 

For now it seems ok . No problems , batteries at 100 SOC & good voltage , but yesterday evening the problem occured . With no " symptoms " it becomes difficult to ascertain what the problem is / was / might be at a future date .

 

Time for a cuppa tho & a break

cheers again

 

Good stuff, it's a continual problem when cruising maybe find out how much load is needed to stop it happening, might just be an amp or two.

 

If it occurs quite reliably with no input from solar, as a diagnostic test could try disconnecting the warning lamp connection once the alt is energised, see if that makes a difference. I take it your domestic batts are sealed ones, which can take very little current once fully charged.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited January 1, 2015 by smileypete

[chubby]

Yes Tony ,

 

Same here , & i did first thing this morning think. ,

" Bugger , theres no hope of solar " pushing " extra charge in to test the possibilty or theory that the symptoms may be linked to having a very full battery bank , genuinely 100% full "

 

A long winded thought !

 

Batts today at 99 . Engine ran during several checks & tests & so SOC now at 100 . Absolutely no sign of yesterday evenings problems .

 

Thing is there has clearly been a relay required at some time in the past & the lack of one being present now leaves me wondering if the current set up is a bodge ? Having said that , the engine alternator functions as required , the cabin bank alternator appears to be functioning as required . Batteries are full of charge .

But i cannot escape the idea that the set up isn t " right. " because its set up differently from before . I m hoping its paranoia , but i cannot bear , absolutely detest cowboyed work & because a very clear lack of experience im unable to gauge to what extent , if any , i ve bodged it .

I ll run the engine over several days & see what happens & try to alter my outlook to " If it aint broke , don t try & fix it " if all seems ok .

What a carry on !

cheers

 

ETA : Cheers Pete , crossed posts . The batteries are " standard " type , that i have to top up from time to time .

Edited January 1, 2015 by chubby

[smileypete]

Might be worth fitting a digital panel voltmeter, can be a lot more useful than a warning buzzer.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[Sir Nibble]

It makes good sense to use a relay to connect the warning light to the domestic alternator but no sense for the sense lead (??) It is entirely possible and wouldn't be the first time that a mechanical engineer has with the best of intentions done something almost but not quite right. I begin to suspect that the problem could be due to a voltage appearing through the warning lamp sufficient to disturb regulation since the engine battery seems to be at a higher voltage.

[smileypete]

It makes good sense to use a relay to connect the warning light to the domestic alternator but no sense for the sense lead (??) It is entirely possible and wouldn't be the first time that a mechanical engineer has with the best of intentions done something almost but not quite right. I begin to suspect that the problem could be due to a voltage appearing through the warning lamp sufficient to disturb regulation since the engine battery seems to be at a higher voltage.

 

My thinking too, hence disconnecting the warning light after alt has energised, as a diagnostic test.

 

Wonder if the sense connection was just daisy chained onto the supply side of the relay contacts, that way IF the relay drops out when the engine is running (ie. ignition turned off) you don't get excess voltage.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited January 1, 2015 by smileypete

[chubby]

Sir Nibble

 

Are you saying that the " lamp " connection at the back of the alternator will in someway react to an excessive voltage from the cabin batts ?

 

Have i understood correctly ?

 

I cannot establish what type of relay i need . I ve looked at the Durite link that Eeyore Steve provided on the original thread (17th December ) but cannot " do the math " required .

 

Thing is the alternator needs 12 v permanent at the sense terminal according to the alternator dealer & i don t see how that can be achieved if i were to refit a relay & reconfigure the wiring back as it was to reconnect the sense terminal at the alt to the corresponding wire at the relay holder .

 

Its getting way beyond me all this

 

Time for tea

 

cheers