Winter drain down - Calorifier

[clovey]

Question

 

I'm indending to drain down my domestic water system for a narrowboat again this winter. The calorifier is at the very back of the cabin space (under bed) and its drain cock is about the lowest point system. Problem is the drain cock is about 2cm from the floor in a tight space so I can only get a very shallow small tray under it. I have in the past after emptying the water tank spend a long time on hands and knees opening and closing the drain cock runing water in to a very small tray, emptying this into a bowl and then chucking this down the sink. It takes ages! and my knees are knackered!. Can I attach a pipe to the drain cock of the calorifier attach this to a spare domestic water pump I have and with all the boat domestic taps open pump the water staight out without risking collapasing the calorifier?

[David Schweizer]

Question

 

I'm indending to drain down my domestic water system for a narrowboat again this winter. The calorifier is at the very back of the cabin space (under bed) and its drain cock is about the lowest point system. Problem is the drain cock is about 2cm from the floor in a tight space so I can only get a very shallow small tray under it. I have in the past after emptying the water tank spend a long time on hands and knees opening and closing the drain cock runing water in to a very small tray, emptying this into a bowl and then chucking this down the sink. It takes ages! and my knees are knackered!. Can I attach a pipe to the drain cock of the calorifier attach this to a spare domestic water pump I have and with all the boat domestic taps open pump the water staight out without risking collapasing the calorifier?

 

There should be another fitting at the top of the tank to allow an intake of air to replace the water as it is drained off, if you release that, the tank will ot suffer from vacuum pressure, Rather than another water pump, may I suggest you invest in one of these, which will work off a battery drill :-

[frangar]

 

There should be another fitting at the top of the tank to allow an intake of air to replace the water as it is drained off, if you release that, the tank will ot suffer from vacuum pressure

 

Opening the hot taps will have the same effect.

 

I do the same with my tank but using an Whale inline water pump….works like a dream!

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[Just Heaven]

I run a hose from the drain cock into the shower and let the shower pump deal with it.

 

Steve

[David Schweizer]

 

Opening the hot taps will have the same effect.

 

I do the same with my tank but using an Whale inline water pump….works like a dream!

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

 

I must admit, I have never thought of that, I guess it would work.

[frangar]

 

I must admit, I have never thought of that, I guess it would work.

 

 

I suppose it might not work quite as well if the hot water take off isn't right at the top of the tank…maybe on some horizontal calorifiers? but it works well on my vertical unit….i usually just open the closest tap which happens to be the bathroom basin but if I want to get most of the water out of the hot water pipes I just open the furthest tap instead.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[b0atman]

I open all taps and hang the shower pipe down in shower bowl .

[Kwacker]

Luckily, I have a spare water pump, which I use to drain down the calorifier as follows.

Remove outlet from boat's pump, fit to inlet on spare pump, outlet from same goes over the side.

Open all hot taps

Switch on spare pump

Within 10 minutes the tank is empty.

I suppose you could just reverse the pipes to your existing pump and empty the calorifier back into the cold tank.

[ditchcrawler]

Question

 

I'm indending to drain down my domestic water system for a narrowboat again this winter. The calorifier is at the very back of the cabin space (under bed) and its drain cock is about the lowest point system. Problem is the drain cock is about 2cm from the floor in a tight space so I can only get a very shallow small tray under it. I have in the past after emptying the water tank spend a long time on hands and knees opening and closing the drain cock runing water in to a very small tray, emptying this into a bowl and then chucking this down the sink. It takes ages! and my knees are knackered!. Can I attach a pipe to the drain cock of the calorifier attach this to a spare domestic water pump I have and with all the boat domestic taps open pump the water staight out without risking collapasing the calorifier?

Mine is permanently plumbed into the bath drain/pump so opening the valve it gravity feeds to the bath, run the bath emptying pump and put the plug in and you suck it out. I make sure all hot taps are open if I assist it with the pump.

Luckily, I have a spare water pump, which I use to drain down the calorifier as follows.

Remove outlet from boat's pump, fit to inlet on spare pump, outlet from same goes over the side.

Open all hot taps

Switch on spare pump

Within 10 minutes the tank is empty.

I suppose you could just reverse the pipes to your existing pump and empty the calorifier back into the cold tank.

No check valves then.

[Scholar Gypsy]

I too use a water pump. See photo on page 17 of the manual. Takes about 10 mins to empty. The pump also doubles as a bilge pump to pump water from under the rear step.

 

I also have an isolator on the cold feed to the calorifier so that (when on a brief winter visit) I can just get the cold water running, without refilling the calorifier.

 

I have a thermostatic valve on the supply to the bathroom, so in addition to opening the taps there is a bypass valve that allows the water to drain out of the pipework downstream of the thermostatic valve.

[ditchcrawler]

I too use a water pump. See photo on page 17 of the manual. Takes about 10 mins to empty. The pump also doubles as a bilge pump to pump water from under the rear step.

 

I also have an isolator on the cold feed to the calorifier so that (when on a brief winter visit) I can just get the cold water running, without refilling the calorifier.

 

I have a thermostatic valve on the supply to the bathroom, so in addition to opening the taps there is a bypass valve that allows the water to drain out of the pipework downstream of the thermostatic valve.

I am very similar but as it takes such a short time to both empty and fill the calorifier I don't bother isolating it.

[Kwacker]

No check valves then.

??????

[ditchcrawler]

??????

You are sucking it back in the opposite direction to which it normally flows, this wouldn't be possible if there was a check valve before your calorifier.

[Kwacker]

You are sucking it back in the opposite direction to which it normally flows, this wouldn't be possible if there was a check valve before your calorifier.

Aaah ... do you mean a non-return valve .... if so, no there isn't, and I can't see why one would be needed as the water inlet to the calorifier is always under positive pressure when the system is filled with water, with the pump acting as the non-return.

[frangar]

Aaah ... do you mean a non-return valve .... if so, no there isn't, and I can't see why one would be needed as the water inlet to the calorifier is always under positive pressure when the system is filled with water, with the pump acting as the non-return.

Because when you open a cold tap there is a pressure drop in the system which may result in hot (well tepid cos it will be at the bottom of the calorifier) water being drawn back into the cold system possibly causing bacteria to grow...or more likely making your hot water cooler!....if you do have NRV you also need an expansion vessel to reduce the stress on the calorifier as the water expands as it heats up.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth