mark99 Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Is there an optimum way of doing this assuming clean paint? Eg is it best when sun on boat. How long do you leave between applying and buffing? Are we trying to leave a film on top of paint or does It take just fill up the tiny valleys in the surface? I've never been sure I'm applying an expensive product and then wiping It off again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEO Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 M, Read the instructions......................................................... Hope you are both well - seriously, what it say's on the tin is best. I avoid using an electric polisher. M, PS Wash bird crap off your paintwork asap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Is washing up liquid harmful to boat type paints? I know it is unkind to car paintwork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEO Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Is washing up liquid harmful to boat type paints? I know it is unkind to car paintwork. Yes, use a paintwork type 'shampoo'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Yes, use a paintwork type 'shampoo'. Cheers, often wondered. Have avoided washing up liquid (car and boat) after seeing what it did to a friend's car. Spoiled a lovely old Jap classic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grace and Favour Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Is washing up liquid harmful to boat type paints? I know it is unkind to car paintwork. Most liquid detergents contain salt as a thickener, and I believe it's the salt that damages the paintwork Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark99 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 (edited) Leo I'm using craft master wax and there are no instructions. I'm interested in how wax works too. NB I don't think putting wax on hot paintwork works that well as some of the fractions boil off / evaporate if the sun has heated up the paintwork? Edited July 27, 2014 by mark99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabcat Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Leo I'm using craft master wax and there are no instructions. I'm interested in how wax works too. NB I don't think putting wax on hot paintwork works that well as some of the fractions boil off / evaporate if the sun has heated up the paintwork? It's excellent stuff, iirc it's carnuba wax. Wack it on, buff it off. I know nothing about hot wax, isn't it something to do with bikini lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEO Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Leo I'm using craft master wax and there are no instructions. I'm interested in how wax works too. NB I don't think putting wax on hot paintwork works that well as some of the fractions boil off / evaporate if the sun has heated up the paintwork? M, Sorry - surprised there are no instructions - lots on the forum use craftmaster wax, I use Autoglym and avoid direct sunlight when applying it. Heat on my steelwork last few days too hot to even stand on it barefooted, so definately no polishing. ATB L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob-M Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 I used the Craft Master wax, just put it on with a cloth and then rubbed over with another cloth. I was surprised how much colour ended up on the cloth I used to polish it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BGA Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) waxing instructions Edited July 28, 2014 by BGA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bramley Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) Washing up liquid contains will strip any protection your paint has on it. Thats how it gets rid of grime. Its not good for your paint, a wash and wax even very cheap would be a lot better. With waxing the boat, best to do it when the metal is cool, and not in direct sunlight add the wax to the boat depending on length and leave for no longer than say 5 mins. Then wax off as such just buff with a cloth until all the residue has gone. The protection layer is left. Any sort of wax would be good to be honest so I wouldn't feed obliged to buy a expensive "boat" wax probably a 5 quid liquid turtle wax would be fine. I have very expensive wax's for my car 50 or 60 quid a pot. Wasted on a boat. Also you don't need to add it really thick as long as it gets a small covering you will be fine. Doing it twice would add a bit more protection. IF you clean your boat soon after do not use an abrasive cleaner like washing up liquid as it will strip most of your protection off. A wax like turtle wax should keep you protected for a good 3 months as long as it doesn't get to grimy, maybe longer if you keep it clean and washed with a budget wash and wax Ross Edited July 28, 2014 by bramley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingswood Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 craftmaster for me to on a coolish day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricco1 Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 A couple of boats I've seen that have been waxed end up with a whiteish haze on them that can't be removed. They would have looked much better if the paint finish was left as it was intended to be left, and just washed down regularly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leolady too Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) Beware some car waxes which contain silcon. Silcon is hellishly difficult to get rid of and will mess up any attempt to paint. The best waxes are carauba based which is a very hard wax. It is the ingredient which makes them expensive. If you want to know just how stupidly expensive this can be look here. http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/swissvax/divine-hand-blended-carnauba-wax.aspx Edited July 29, 2014 by leolady too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave moore Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Hear, hear regarding silicone based waxes, I've always advised against them. As far as price goes, some Carnuba Wax polishes may not be cheap, but in comparison to the cost of the boat they are protecting, or even the price of a repaint.....makes sense to me! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plainsman Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 I contacted Craftmaster with a similar query, this is their reply. There are not any instructions for the polish. Its very simple and easyto use, just polish on and buff off (separate cloths)We generally recommend the use of both the Wash and the Wax. Regularwashing with the wash and a polish around 4 times a yearPolishing can wear the paint down over the years but as long as there isa sufficient amount of paint applied to the boat I doubt you'll everhave a problem from polishingWe do no recommend the use of any mechanical polishing aids, its fairlyeasy and not too much hard work by hand. Choose a cool day, wash boat and leather off. Follow instructions as above and change buffing cloth often as paint residue can be abrasive. Although Craftmaster polish is easy to use, on a big boat it can be quite a task so allow yourself plenty of time I find it better to apply to a smallish area then buff of before it dries before applying to the next section of boat. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabcat Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Not all Carnuba wax is made equal. The stuff you want for a boat (and the stuff Craftmaster sell) is the same as the stuff you want for classic cars - no silicon, no polymers and no sealants. A lot of stuff is blended. None of the good stuff is cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark99 Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 I contacted Craftmaster with a similar query, this is their reply. There are not any instructions for the polish. Its very simple and easy to use, just polish on and buff off (separate cloths) We generally recommend the use of both the Wash and the Wax. Regular washing with the wash and a polish around 4 times a year Polishing can wear the paint down over the years but as long as there is a sufficient amount of paint applied to the boat I doubt you'll ever have a problem from polishing We do no recommend the use of any mechanical polishing aids, its fairly easy and not too much hard work by hand. Choose a cool day, wash boat and leather off. Follow instructions as above and change buffing cloth often as paint residue can be abrasive. Although Craftmaster polish is easy to use, on a big boat it can be quite a task so allow yourself plenty of time I find it better to apply to a smallish area then buff of before it dries before applying to the next section of boat. Hope this helps Very useful. Their wax wash is excellent. It's really streak free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Is washing up liquid harmful to boat type paints? I know it is unkind to car paintwork. My old German mate Hans Datdodishes used to frown upon the use of washing up liquid when cleaning his car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonka Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 The article from Craftmaster is very confusing. They mention washing and polishing and yet they sell a shampoo and a wax. Wax being applied after polish. Google it there is a big difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark99 Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) The article from Craftmaster is very confusing. They mention washing and polishing and yet they sell a shampoo and a wax. Wax being applied after polish. Google it there is a big difference Seemed clear to me? 1) wash down with their wax wash when boat needs a clean (their wash contains a wax) 2) polish with their wax up to 4 times per annum for protection Edited July 30, 2014 by mark99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabcat Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Seemed clear to me? 1) wash down with their wax wash when boat needs a clean (their wash contains a wax) 2) polish with their wax up to 4 times per annum for protection It's just bad use of terminology. A polish is not a wax. A polish is used to strip off a wax is a coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bag 'o' bones Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 From my limited knowledge... Polish seems to be cumulative - assuming that you add more polish before the previous coat wears off. Probably best to avoid silicone based polish - Phil Speight once said (if I remember right) that traditional paints are not waterproof and will absorb water in the right conditions (mats left on the roof for example) there is no reason to believe that paint wont absorb silicone oil just as readily! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kae Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 From my limited knowledge... Polish seems to be cumulative - assuming that you add more polish before the previous coat wears off. Probably best to avoid silicone based polish - Phil Speight once said (if I remember right) that traditional paints are not waterproof and will absorb water in the right conditions (mats left on the roof for example) there is no reason to believe that paint wont absorb silicone oil just as readily! Swap polish for wax and you're a good way there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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