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Waxing Paintwork


mark99

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Is there an optimum way of doing this assuming clean paint?

 

Eg is it best when sun on boat.

 

 

 

How long do you leave between applying and buffing?

 

Are we trying to leave a film on top of paint or does It take just fill up the tiny valleys in the surface?

 

I've never been sure I'm applying an expensive product and then wiping It off again.

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M,

 

Read the instructions.........................................................

 

Hope you are both well - seriously, what it say's on the tin is best. I avoid using an electric polisher.

 

M,

 

PS Wash bird crap off your paintwork asap.

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Yes, use a paintwork type 'shampoo'.

Cheers, often wondered.

Have avoided washing up liquid (car and boat) after seeing what it did to a friend's car. Spoiled a lovely old Jap classic.

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Leo

 

I'm using craft master wax and there are no instructions. I'm interested in how wax works too.

 

NB I don't think putting wax on hot paintwork works that well as some of the fractions boil off / evaporate if the sun has heated up the paintwork?

Edited by mark99
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Leo

 

I'm using craft master wax and there are no instructions. I'm interested in how wax works too.

 

NB I don't think putting wax on hot paintwork works that well as some of the fractions boil off / evaporate if the sun has heated up the paintwork?

 

 

It's excellent stuff, iirc it's carnuba wax. Wack it on, buff it off. I know nothing about hot wax, isn't it something to do with bikini lines?

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Leo

 

I'm using craft master wax and there are no instructions. I'm interested in how wax works too.

 

NB I don't think putting wax on hot paintwork works that well as some of the fractions boil off / evaporate if the sun has heated up the paintwork?

M,

 

Sorry - surprised there are no instructions - lots on the forum use craftmaster wax, I use Autoglym and avoid direct sunlight when applying it.

 

Heat on my steelwork last few days too hot to even stand on it barefooted,

so definately no polishing.

 

ATB

 

 

L.

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Washing up liquid contains will strip any protection your paint has on it. Thats how it gets rid of grime. Its not good for your paint, a wash and wax even very cheap would be a lot better.

 

With waxing the boat, best to do it when the metal is cool, and not in direct sunlight

 

add the wax to the boat depending on length and leave for no longer than say 5 mins. Then wax off as such just buff with a cloth until all the residue has gone. The protection layer is left.

 

Any sort of wax would be good to be honest so I wouldn't feed obliged to buy a expensive "boat" wax probably a 5 quid liquid turtle wax would be fine.

 

I have very expensive wax's for my car 50 or 60 quid a pot. Wasted on a boat.

 

Also you don't need to add it really thick as long as it gets a small covering you will be fine. Doing it twice would add a bit more protection.

 

IF you clean your boat soon after do not use an abrasive cleaner like washing up liquid as it will strip most of your protection off.

 

A wax like turtle wax should keep you protected for a good 3 months as long as it doesn't get to grimy, maybe longer if you keep it clean and washed with a budget wash and wax

 

Ross

Edited by bramley
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A couple of boats I've seen that have been waxed end up with a whiteish haze on them that can't be removed. They would have looked much better if the paint finish was left as it was intended to be left, and just washed down regularly.

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Beware some car waxes which contain silcon. Silcon is hellishly difficult to get rid of and will mess up any attempt to paint. The best waxes are carauba based which is a very hard wax. It is the ingredient which makes them expensive. If you want to know just how stupidly expensive this can be look here.

 

http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/swissvax/divine-hand-blended-carnauba-wax.aspx

Edited by leolady too
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Hear, hear regarding silicone based waxes, I've always advised against them. As far as price goes, some Carnuba Wax polishes may not be cheap, but in comparison to the cost of the boat they are protecting, or even the price of a repaint.....makes sense to me!

 

Dave

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I contacted Craftmaster with a similar query, this is their reply.

 

There are not any instructions for the polish. Its very simple and easy
to use, just polish on and buff off (separate cloths)

We generally recommend the use of both the Wash and the Wax. Regular
washing with the wash and a polish around 4 times a year

Polishing can wear the paint down over the years but as long as there is
a sufficient amount of paint applied to the boat I doubt you'll ever
have a problem from polishing

We do no recommend the use of any mechanical polishing aids, its fairly
easy and not too much hard work by hand.

 

Choose a cool day, wash boat and leather off. Follow instructions as above and change buffing cloth often as paint residue can be abrasive. Although Craftmaster polish is easy to use, on a big boat it can be quite a task so allow yourself plenty of time I find it better to apply to a smallish area then buff of before it dries before applying to the next section of boat. Hope this helps

 

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Not all Carnuba wax is made equal. The stuff you want for a boat (and the stuff Craftmaster sell) is the same as the stuff you want for classic cars - no silicon, no polymers and no sealants. A lot of stuff is blended. None of the good stuff is cheap.

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I contacted Craftmaster with a similar query, this is their reply.

 

There are not any instructions for the polish. Its very simple and easy

to use, just polish on and buff off (separate cloths)

 

We generally recommend the use of both the Wash and the Wax. Regular

washing with the wash and a polish around 4 times a year

 

Polishing can wear the paint down over the years but as long as there is

a sufficient amount of paint applied to the boat I doubt you'll ever

have a problem from polishing

 

We do no recommend the use of any mechanical polishing aids, its fairly

easy and not too much hard work by hand.

 

Choose a cool day, wash boat and leather off. Follow instructions as above and change buffing cloth often as paint residue can be abrasive. Although Craftmaster polish is easy to use, on a big boat it can be quite a task so allow yourself plenty of time I find it better to apply to a smallish area then buff of before it dries before applying to the next section of boat. Hope this helps

 

 

 

Very useful. Their wax wash is excellent. It's really streak free.

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Is washing up liquid harmful to boat type paints? I know it is unkind to car paintwork.

My old German mate Hans Datdodishes used to frown upon the use of washing up liquid when cleaning his car!

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The article from Craftmaster is very confusing. They mention washing and polishing and yet they sell a shampoo and a wax. Wax being applied after polish. Google it there is a big difference

 

Seemed clear to me?

 

1) wash down with their wax wash when boat needs a clean (their wash contains a wax)

 

2) polish with their wax up to 4 times per annum for protection

Edited by mark99
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Seemed clear to me?

 

1) wash down with their wax wash when boat needs a clean (their wash contains a wax)

 

2) polish with their wax up to 4 times per annum for protection

 

It's just bad use of terminology. A polish is not a wax. A polish is used to strip off a wax is a coating.

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From my limited knowledge...

 

Polish seems to be cumulative - assuming that you add more polish before the previous coat wears off.

Probably best to avoid silicone based polish - Phil Speight once said (if I remember right) that traditional paints are not waterproof and will absorb water in the right conditions (mats left on the roof for example) there is no reason to believe that paint wont absorb silicone oil just as readily!

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From my limited knowledge...

 

Polish seems to be cumulative - assuming that you add more polish before the previous coat wears off.

Probably best to avoid silicone based polish - Phil Speight once said (if I remember right) that traditional paints are not waterproof and will absorb water in the right conditions (mats left on the roof for example) there is no reason to believe that paint wont absorb silicone oil just as readily!

 

Swap polish for wax and you're a good way there.

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