Fridge freezer

[Phil Ambrose]

spray foam insulation on the sensor line can help stop this problem.

With regards to costs generally rip off price boat fridges are only for casual use so do not comply with energy requirements I am now looking for a A+ energy rated larder fridge have heard a rumour that Inlander use 230v fridges and convert them to 12v so will go down this route unless you know more

I know for a fact that Shoreline use LEC fridges and convert them. I have both a under counter larder fridge and a under counter freezer both from Shoreline and both 12 volt. You have to remember the price reflects the fact they have to be converted plus unit sales of 12 volt fridges and freezers are very low compared to 240 volt stuff and again this is reflected in the price. The bonus is that if your inverter fails your fridge and freezer will still work,

Phil

[Bettie Boo]

I've recently been looking at loads of different under counter size freezers, and the majority of the A+ & A++ have a "stay safely frozen" anywhere from 15 - 30+ hours if there is a power loss.

 

Am I right in thinking I would be able to unplug the freezer each night around 21:00 and then plug it back in the following morning around 9:00 ish without causing undue wear & tare to the freezer's operating systems?

 

Doing this in regards to less draw on our batteries overnight (no shore power available)

[ditchcrawler]

I know for a fact that Shoreline use LEC fridges and convert them. I have both a under counter larder fridge and a under counter freezer both from Shoreline and both 12 volt. You have to remember the price reflects the fact they have to be converted plus unit sales of 12 volt fridges and freezers are very low compared to 240 volt stuff and again this is reflected in the price. The bonus is that if your inverter fails your fridge and freezer will still work,

Phil

As I have posted before LEC use to make 12/24 volt DC fridges, they even use to sell direct to the public but then changed to supplying just one UK distributor. I don't know if they still make them or not, but when they sold direct they were a lot cheaper.

[Ex- Member]

I've recently been looking at loads of different under counter size freezers, and the majority of the A+ & A++ have a "stay safely frozen" anywhere from 15 - 30+ hours if there is a power loss.

 

Am I right in thinking I would be able to unplug the freezer each night around 21:00 and then plug it back in the following morning around 9:00 ish without causing undue wear & tare to the freezer's operating systems?

 

Doing this in regards to less draw on our batteries overnight (no shore power available)

 

Hi Bettie

 

Some posted that's what they do on other discussions I've read. TBH the fridge motor wouldn't kick in much anyway assuming it was at the required coldness when switched off. If your inverter is staying on for other appliances it would hardly make a difference as either way the freezer will need to be brought back up to operating temperature.

 

It's switching the inverter off with the freezer that would save energy which is what some do, then switch all back on when solar begins to charge or engine is running etc.

Edited January 16, 2014 by Julynian

[Kwacker]

I've pointed this out before.

http://www.ice-king.co.uk/ProductList.aspx?p=12

http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/fridge-freezers/fridge-freezers---small/fridge-freezer-ff2022

Having seen the 12v stuff at Crick show, I'd put money on them coming from the same (Chinese) factory.

Price difference about £400

I'll be having a 230v one thank you.

Edited January 16, 2014 by Kwacker

[Bettie Boo]

 

Hi Bettie

 

Some posted that's what they do on other discussions I've read. TBH the fridge motor wouldn't kick in much anyway assuming it was at the required coldness when switched off. If your inverter is staying on for other appliances it would hardly make a difference as either way the freezer will need to be brought back up to operating temperature.

 

It's switching the inverter off with the freezer that would save energy which is what some do, then switch all back on when solar begins to charge or engine is running etc.

Makes sense, thanx as always Julian, I'm sure I'll get the hang of it all once we are on-board

 

In the meantime, thank you for your patience in answering all my novice questions

[Ex- Member]

Makes sense, thanx as always Julian, I'm sure I'll get the hang of it all once we are on-board

 

In the meantime, thank you for your patience in answering all my novice questions

 

No worries, I had to ask all the same stuff back along so I'm just passing it on really

[b0atman]

I meant spray the sensor line at the outside of the fridge or freezer where ambient temperature can affect it .

Existing fridge on boat is a shoreline not a lot of insulation .

have e mailed inlander for info .

[OldGoat]

As I have posted before LEC use to make 12/24 volt DC fridges, they even use to sell direct to the public but then changed to supplying just one UK distributor. I don't know if they still make them or not, but when they sold direct they were a lot cheaper.

 

LEC stopped selling 12V fridges some time before they closed the Bognor factory (I thin that's all housing nowadays).

Then the company was sold off and all that remains is a badging operation with everything outsourced to China.

 

Shoreline is now the only connection (local) to what used to be Lec....

[Phil Ambrose]

Turning fridges and freezers off saves very little energy because if the kit is used as it should they will not be running a lot, particulary the freezer if kept full as you usually don't go in there very often. However by turning them off you have to expend an equal or more energy to get them down to temperature again.

Phil

[Ex- Member]

Turning fridges and freezers off saves very little energy because if the kit is used as it should they will not be running a lot, particulary the freezer if kept full as you usually don't go in there very often. However by turning them off you have to expend an equal or more energy to get them down to temperature again.

Phil

 

I did mention that earlier, but if it allows you to also turn of the inverter as well you save the energy required to run the inverter.

 

Another point is that by switching off at night you're not using stored energy. If you switch on in the morning when solar is kicking in you're using new free energy to bring the fridge back correct temp.

Edited January 16, 2014 by Julynian

[Phil Ambrose]

As an ex-chef I am less than happy to have food stored at an incorrect temperature and to constantly repeat the warming/cooling process sends a chill down my spine but that is just me.

Phil

Edited January 16, 2014 by Phil Ambrose

[peterboat]

Getting back to my original post by turning up the thermostat it still worked when it was cold on the boat so the problem is down to me!! I now when I leave the boat leave the wispergen to do its stuff on its timer so the heating is on for 3.5 hours per day which has solved the problem. I used to have a 230 volt fridge freezer but when my inverter failed twice I decided 12volt for me is better

[Beckshwarz]

 

If only a year old hopefully you'll get some recourse. frangar might be right also.

 

If not you might want to consider a 240v option, I posted this just a couple of days ago.

 

Came across this one which might be useful for boaters. we have a superb Bosch fridge (with no freezer option) which is very energy efficient @ 117kwh this under counter fridge freezer is just 170kwh. for best of both worlds, only a smallish freezer but perfect for the essentials, and the smaller fridge compartment should suffice for 2 persons at least.

http://www.currys.co...0131226141033:s

We have this exact fridge/freezer. It would make a better anchor! Climate class is rated N (ambient temp 16-32 C). The inside temp of the boat regularly falls below that in the daytime in winter. The freezer defrosts.. the fridge freezes. I would not recomend this model to anyone- unless they wanted an anchor! Have been looking into fridge/freezers that are suitable for garages. Have read Beko's with "Frost Gaurd" may be a better option.

[Edders]

Julynian, on 29 Dec 2013 - 7:32 PM, said:

 

If only a year old hopefully you'll get some recourse. frangar might be right also.

 

If not you might want to consider a 240v option, I posted this just a couple of days ago.

 

Came across this one which might be useful for boaters. we have a superb Bosch fridge (with no freezer option) which is very energy efficient @ 117kwh this under counter fridge freezer is just 170kwh. for best of both worlds, only a smallish freezer but perfect for the essentials, and the smaller fridge compartment should suffice for 2 persons at least.

http://www.currys.co...0131226141033:s

 

 

 

We have this exact fridge/freezer. It would make a better anchor! Climate class is rated N (ambient temp 16-32 C). The inside temp of the boat regularly falls below that in the daytime in winter. The freezer defrosts.. the fridge freezes. I would not recomend this model to anyone- unless they wanted an anchor! Have been looking into fridge/freezers that are suitable for garages. Have read Beko's with "Frost Gaurd" may be a better option.

 

 

I have had one of these on my boat for over 3 years with no problem. I live aboard and admittedly the temperature in the living/galley area rarely, if ever drops below 16C. If I was going to leave the boat for any length of time in the winter I would run down the food etc and turn the unit off.

 

Tony

[b0atman]

Bit the bullet and have ordered a Lec larder fridge from Inlander £432 inc Vat picking up as I drive past on M5/M6 heading home to Boat

Edited February 1, 2014 by b0atman

[Phil Ambrose]

Bit the bullet and have ordered a Lec larder fridge from Inlander £432 inc Vat picking up as I drive past on M5/M6 heading home to Boat

Just thinking back and we have had ours for about 12 years, a good investment, at least for us. 12 volt kit? love it.

 

Phil