Self Adhesive Soundproofing

[weeble]

I've just bought half a dozen 900x600 sheets of self-adhesive, foil faced sound proofing to stick under the deck of my cruiser stern, and I hope to fit it tomorrow. When I picked it up from the chandlers I was quite surprised at the weight of the stuff so I was wondering if anyone on here has experience of using these sheets applied directly to metal on the underside of their deck -- i.e. is it sticky enough to hold or did you apply an additional adhesive, and what surface preparation you do?

 

I did think about using Evo-stick as well but would this work on top of the self-adhesive glue?

 

As these sheets are pretty expensive I'd rather not waste one carrying out "experiments".

 

Quick replies would be appreciated as in 24hrs time I should be heading off down the engine 'ole!

 

Cheers.... mike

[bottle]

Hi Mike

 

No experience, sorry, but as for preparation.

 

The normal preparation, no loose paint, clean, dust free and no grease/oil I think would cover it and any rust removed and treated.

[dor]

I have these sheets on the underside of my cruiser deck (aluminium treadplate).

 

they were originally stuck on with the original adhesive, and this lasted a few years. When they fell off, I would push them back on, but they would drop off again.

 

I tried instant grab adhesive, but that wasn't very successful, so finally resorted to traditional Evostick, which seems to have done the job.

 

I would recommend sticking them on with the already-applied adhesive, but be prepared to redo it in a few years with Evostick or similar.

[stuart]

I've not got any insulation sheets but have had good results from the EvoStick "gel" type glue that comes in metal tubs.

 

If your working upside down it wont drip on you or your engine!

[John Orentas]

As always with the use of adhesives the important thing is to de-grease the surface, areas around the engine will inevitably have a film of oil on them. As it will be an outdoor job try and get hold of some Trichloroethane, even cleaned with Gunk, hosed and dried should do the job.

[awatsonbcp]

I bought the non self adhesive type last year and stuck them on as recommended with silicone sealant.This was fine until this summer when the intense heat caused the adhesive to give up on some parts.

 

I have invested in some stainless steel screws and "penny" washers which means i dont have to worry about the glue giving up ,and i can always take them off if i need to for maintenance.

 

They made a big difference to the noise levels so it was worth fitting them.... i can now hear what fishermen shout at me when i go over their rods as i never swerve round them.

[DHutch]

Obvously make sure the paint is sound and clean, then it looks like it will last a few years, then fail.

 

Also, you can get aerosols full of contact addheasive.

- The stuff that comes out of them is just like evo stick, only sprayed on!

- Its great, ive used it a lot for lining things. The insides of our camping stove (foamlineed) Sticking carpet tiles down to plywood, Felt linning on the inside the draws of a chesstable i made. Etc.

 

 

Daniel

[ChrisPy]

....................... and be prepared for a spinning head and a hangover.

[weeble]

Thanks all.

It's given me a bit of confidence to go ahead and use it "as is".

The emphasis on getting the surface very clean has been taken on board, but I don't know where I'd get any Trich. from at this late stage John. There was a time in my service days when I used to almost swim in the stuff when we used it for cleaning generators etc, but I haven't come across it now for years..... I think they discovered it was quite nasty stuff to work with.

 

Anyway, I'll let you know on Monday how it all went and whether or not I can stand up straight again by then. I'm sure the end result will be worth it...... but if it's as effective as it says on the box the next question is, how do I get the wife to STOP SHOUTING?

 

Cheers.... and enjoy the Friday Beer

 

Mike

[Callum]

next question is, how do I get the wife to STOP SHOUTING?

 

 

Oh that's easy - gaffer tape!

[Mike Richardson]

Hi Mike,

 

I bought the 13mm non-adhesive stuff from TW Marine and used Timebond (by Evostick) and aluminium channel around the edges to stop it peeling off. Six years plus and no problems yet. Timebond is IMHO easier to use, comes with a plastic spreader and gives you a chance to move it if your first stab isn't quite right.

Edited August 4, 2006 by Mike Richardson

[DHutch]

Oh that's easy - gaffer tape!

Yeah, just make sure you clean and degrease before apliying, for a lasting and affecive bond.

 

 

 

Daniel

[Christine]

Yeah, just make sure you clean and degrease before apliying, for a lasting and affecive bond.

Daniel

 

 

Laughing so much that my gulp of vino ( Pinot grigio ) went down the wrong way

 

Chrissie

[weeble]

Mission accomplished. When I unpacked everything I found I had 2 self-adhesive mats and 4 non-adhesive, so I bought a can of "special for purpose" adhesive spray from the chandlery at a cost of nearly £12 which turned out to be very much like Evostick (yes, I fall for it every time!).

Anyway, to cut a long story short it took me all day Saturday to get the job done and having both types fitted I'll now be able to tell exactly which stay in place the longest. The results were very good -- much quieter on the stern deck now (although I don't know what will happen when I remove the gaffer tape Daniel! -- How long should I leave her like that BTW ).

 

However a few pointers for anyone else who is thinking about doing asimilar job:

 

1. Have a good supply of Stanley knife blades to hand. I found that after making 2-3 cuts the blades tended to tear the foam rather than cut it cleanly.

 

2. If you must use an adhesive then I'd recommend not using the spray can variety..... it's a job not to get it everywhere when you're working at unmentionable angles down the 'ole; and the thing that stuck the best was my glasses to my matted hair. And for God's sake use a breathing filter of some sort.

 

3. If you use the aluminium edging tape on exposed edges (and I'd recommend it) then take it slow when you remove the backing tape -- otherwise it will recoil on itself and you'll end up with a right tangle which will end up unusable!

 

BTW, given the choice I think for ease of application I'd plump for the self-adhesive variety.

 

Thanks to all for your suggestions. If I ever manage to stand up straight again I swear I'll go to the bar and get in a round

 

Mike

[DHutch]

Fair enough, keep up posted...!!

 

 

 

Daniel

[Noah]

............... bought a can of "special for purpose" adhesive spray from the chandlery at a cost of nearly £12 which turned out to be very much like Evostick (yes, I fall for it every time!). ....................................

 

1. Have a good supply of Stanley knife blades to hand. I found that after making 2-3 cuts the blades tended to tear the foam rather than cut it cleanly.

 

2. If you must use an adhesive then I'd recommend not using the spray can variety

 

3. If you use the aluminium edging tape on exposed edges (and I'd recommend it) then take it slow when you remove the backing tape -- otherwise it will recoil on itself and you'll end up with a right tangle which will end up unusable!

 

Mike

Mike

 

I tried the genuine Evostick contact adhesive and my under-deck insulation boards fell off as soon as they got warm! Where possible I then fixed the insulation with "penny" washers and screws. Silicon should be OK to use if the surfaces are really clean but the insulation will need holding in place for a day or so.

 

I found a serrated breadknife was OK for cutting, used with a sawing motion.

 

What kind of aluminium tape did you use? I can't find any that has heat resistant adhesive.

 

With my new HG silencer, the insulation has made a huge difference. Now I can hear birdsong, the breeze in the trees, and my girlfriend's nagging!

 

Noah

[hnb2907]

Hi folks,

 

Over the past year I've been collecting a number of sheets of sound insulation as funds permit, to go around my engine bay. The sheets are non-adhesive, tried the self adhesive stuff before on my old boat, but it only lasted a couple of years before they fell off.

 

Anyone got any comments on the best glue to use - I'll be sticking the sheets to the inside of the hull (which is gloss painted) and to plywood. I'm thinking of Evostick contact adhesive 584 or 528, but I'm not entirely sure what the difference is. Any recommendations, and can either be used on the insulation sheets, and does the glue "pass" the safety requirements in "the book"???

 

So many questions, sorry!

 

Hopefully todays weather is the start of some decent boating for this year!?

 

 

Cheers,

ChrisC.

[alan_fincher]

I tried the genuine Evostick contact adhesive and my under-deck insulation boards fell off as soon as they got warm!

 

 

Anyone got any comments on the best glue to use - I'll be sticking the sheets to the inside of the hull (which is gloss painted) and to plywood. I'm thinking of Evostick contact adhesive 584 or 528, but I'm not entirely sure what the difference is. Any recommendations, and can either be used on the insulation sheets, and does the glue "pass" the safety requirements in "the book"???

A late answer on this, but may still be useful to somebody.

 

I too was surprised at the weight of the sheets.

 

Mine were from TW Marine, and are noticeably better quality than the standard Midland Swindlers offering.

 

However they were also costlier, and significantly heavier, (there is a much thicker sound deadenig "lead" layer, and both the foam types are very much more dense).

 

I used bog standard Evo-stick, as from any DIY place, and it has bonded them rock solid, including where they are hanging upside down.

 

However expect to use a lot of glue, as the foam really soaks it up.

 

I think it highly unlikely they will become detached.

 

Alan

[blackrose]

A late answer on this, but may still be useful to somebody.

 

I too was surprised at the weight of the sheets.

 

Mine were from TW Marine, and are noticeably better quality than the standard Midland Swindlers offering.

 

However they were also costlier, and significantly heavier, (there is a much thicker sound deadenig "lead" layer, and both the foam types are very much more dense).

 

I used bog standard Evo-stick, as from any DIY place, and it has bonded them rock solid, including where they are hanging upside down.

 

However expect to use a lot of glue, as the foam really soaks it up.

 

I think it highly unlikely they will become detached.

 

Alan

 

I think I'd use a few splodges of Marineflex (PU adhesive/sealant) rather than Evo-stick.

 

Most contact adhesives end up becoming a bit brittle and don't flex with the expansion and contraction of the steel.

[alan_fincher]

I think I'd use a few splodges of Marineflex (PU adhesive/sealant) rather than Evo-stick.

 

Most contact adhesives end up becoming a bit brittle and don't flex with the expansion and contraction of the steel.

I don't think you can accuse Evostick as ever becoming "brittle". If you can prise a joint apart at all, (not easy), what you find is "stretchy" rather than "crumbly".

 

I must admit in my case, all the fixing was to plywood surfaces. But I can't imagine it would be any less effective to steel or aluminium.

 

Unless Marineflex, (which I don't know), is superlatively strong, I'd put more than a few splodges to attach the sound deadening material I used. It really was very heavy, and where Ihjave "hung" it under deck boards, I coated the whole sheet. (Overkill perhaps, and I did use a lot of glue).

 

Alan