Noah

That white ceiling looks good, Gary. My nb has got one and, in my opinion, it looks much better than miles of veneer (or Krono) throughout. Is it T&G MDF or sheet? I used Craftmaster and was also pleased. Seemed much more "body" than other enamels that I've tried. Noah

Hi Smelly The label "Unipart" suggests that the alternator may be a Lucas replica like my Lucas (Unipart) A127. Often these have no manufacturer's markings at all to identify them. On mine one of the connector posts on the alternator is stamped B- for negative. These markings can be difficult to see, and connect, on some engines without moving the alternator. Be sure that the connections you make are secure and use shake-proof washers. I recently had the negative come loose and it caused an intermittent fault that was hard to trace. Noah

Great website - these Scandinavians are still axe-mad. I want the double-headed "Throwing Competition Axe" ! Remember that scene in "The Vikings" with Kirk Douglas? Noah

Hi PeterF Where did you get your self-adhesive neoprene sheeting from? I tried 3mm closed-cell foam on the hatch underside but heat from sunlight softened the contact adhesive I used. I ended up using 4mm cork tiles with cork adhesive - so far it's OK. Noah

Hi Jelunga We have been thinking of doing just that for a few years. Some say to us “just do it!” and I think they are probably right. There is a very real risk of getting old and wishing that we had! We have a small house and would not be able to downsize and fund a larger, live-aboard boat. So, in another 5 years (no longer!) we plan to sell-up and live-aboard with no desire to be enslaved again to the “property ladder.” Maybe we will build a boat that is as future-proof as possible so that there would be no great problems in the case of possible ill-health. Consideration would also have to be given to mooring site if cruising becomes limited. Noah

It was great to meet you all yesterday, just a shame we had to drive home and not stay and get drunk with those who did! Driving home after only one pint of Old P was unexciting. Thanks to Gary for another look around his workshop and the completed barge on the river. Noah

Hi Folks I had hoped to join you all and stay for Saturday night but the work situation (lack of!) has changed my plans. But girlfiend and I will still be able to make it over there for Saturday afternoon for a few hours and perhaps stay for an early evening meal. Looks as though I’ll be driving my van so only one pint of Old P Will probably arrive about 1:30 pm at the Nav. If no one around will assume all round at Gary’s. Noah

I’ve always used Bazza’s pike float idea. Test it (carefully!) if you add several more keys. And be careful which pocket you keep it in – it can look deeply suspicious! Noah

Hi Just a note on the Rufford Branch: the canal is blocked at Sparks Bridge at present while bridge repairs are underway - scaffolding and barrier fencing right across the channel. The Waterscape stopages list states that only the towpath is closed! I hoped to get to the sea lock on saturday but had to reverse half a mile back to the winding hole at Rufford Old Hall. Noah

Hi Tony I’m going to that a try on mine. I fitted a new Morse-type lever and have the same problem with the strong “throttle” spring on my Kubota engine. There is a friction screw in the Morse lever but even when fully tight it does not prevent slipping back at anything over quarter throttle. When I’m pushing a tide and need full power I hang a weight (pair of binoculars/pint glass) over the lever to keep it in place! Noah

Sad that advancing years causes some changes to be made to our hobbies. My mate's dad retired from a motorcycle stunt team at 66. A few months later he was jumping out of planes! All the best, John. Noah

Thanks. I'll give the Nav a call when I know for certain that I can come along. I'm hesitating because of a new job offer and I'm unsure of the working hours. Work always seems to spoil the fun of spending my wages! Noah

Thanks for all the tips for removing the sump drain. Unfortunately there was insufficient clearance to get a decent spanner/stilsons in there to remove either the plug or the hose attached to it. So I've done the next best thing and shortened the damaged hose, flared on another end and blocked the female thread with a blanking plug. It seems oil tight but I'll only really know when I get it hot and thin on a run at the weekend. For future oil changes I'll pump out though the dipstick hole. My local Pirtek Fluid Transfer shop were really helpfull with the bits I needed: http://www.pirtek.co.uk/ Noah