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Well boat painting got off to a good start, got the foof basically finished, just the pigeon hatch and sliding hatch to paint. A mate of mine helped out and inside a week the roof sides bow & stern had all been rubbed down primed and under-coated, rock on I thought. that was until the top coat was applied to the side panels, first coat of gloss was applied mid afternoon, and by morning there must have been over a hundred flies spread across all panels. The gloss was 10 year international gloss, but this stuff takes an age to go off touch dry and clearly the flies over this period mounted up somewhat.

 

So this week I've completely flatted back all the panels and now again ready for gloss. i don't want to get problems with flies again so I purchased a strawberry net 20 metres x 3 metres. I set it up tonight and can hopefully get on with gloss coating tomorrow. Also armed with tins of fly spray, anything that comes near the net will be blasted.

 

I've now splashed out on some Craftmaster paint, blimy what a price, but it goes touch dry in a couple of hours I believe so hopefully with the net and fly spray I can get a good fly free finish, I'll spray paint the first coat so there will be a nice flat finish for the final top coat.

 

Any tips on keeping flies at bay would be useful. The problem here is being on dry land, we're close to 2 rows of trees which of course attracts much insect life let alone debris falling from them as well. Just my luck it'll end up fly free but piss down with rain laugh.gif

 

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Your paint is too runny

 

Richard

 

Was straight out the tin, no thinning, the flies around here are big mind and other larger insects, we're basically on a farm, so there's all sorts from gnats to horse flies laugh.gif even flying spiders, not joking they travel on the wind and get everywhere.

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I had the same problem during the couple of mayfly weeks. I think you've just got to choose your days and times. I didn't find that International 10 year gloss takes any longer to go off than the paint I use at work (Blakes/Hemple Brilliant Enamel). I just leave the flies and wipe them off with a damp cloth once the paint is dry.

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I had the same problem during the couple of mayfly weeks. I think you've just got to choose your days and times. I didn't find that International 10 year gloss takes any longer to go off than the paint I use at work (Blakes/Hemple Brilliant Enamel). I just leave the flies and wipe them off with a damp cloth once the paint is dry.

 

Hi Br

 

It is a pain, the net was 40 quid, a small price to pay, I know flies can be wiped off, I did so on the roof, hardly any though as I used Hammerite through the centre and it goes touch dry in minutes after each coat. On the sides though it was a mess, and when I say a hundred flies + that's no exaggeration, it really had to be re-flattened, they were well embedded and some even managed to walk around leaving trackslaugh.gif I got a lot of flies on the sides of the roof as well but mostly gnats, but this was gritty paint so they came off easily with a brush, there's 3 undercoat and 3 Gloss on there now, so should last a good while. I have noticed that painting later in the day is worse, Stuff I've done in the morning has suffered much less. Anyway I'll try to get the netting well sealed up to stop the wee beggars, I'm pretty confident it'll work. Myself and mate Dave have put a lot of work into good preparation so want to get a finish that reflects that work and effort. I reckon the sides will be done by Tuesday looking at the weather forecast, so I'll post if all goes well.

 

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Just an update on the strawberry net, IT WORKS

 

Well about 95% better just a few odd flies here and there but tiny ones this time rather than the bigger horse fly type. It's also cut down massively on other airborne dust and bits and pieces that end up ruining an otherwise good paint job. Ready for the final coat of Craftmaster, I'll be ensuring that the net fully encapsulates the entire area to be painted. Just need some good weather.

 

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Ref Craftmaster paint, on the tin is states use PP something thinner, I automatically assumed White Spirit would suffice, most annoying or is the PP thinner just White spirit anyway? The tin says You can clean brushes with White spirit so why not thin with it?

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Thinning with White Spirit can lead to premature fading of the paint and other problems

 

PPA is a flowing agent, a bit like Owatrol but completely different in most respects. It most certainly isn't White Spirit

 

A synthetic Thinner will do the job if it must be thinned

Edited by Adam Brown
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In my experience there is little difference between thinners and white spirit. I have seen boats where excessive spirit has caused premature dulling. However you have to add a hell of alot and i have never had the problem. I have used 20% with no problem.

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Thinning with White Spirit can lead to premature fading of the paint and other problems

 

PPA is a flowing agent, a bit like Owatrol but completely different in most respects. It most certainly isn't White Spirit

 

A synthetic Thinner will do the job if it must be thinned

 

Thanks for that Adam, I haven't opened the tin yet, so not sure if it needs thinning, I can get some if needed as I bought from the local chandlers that stock C/master. Does it generally need thinning or is it best straight from the tin, It's being applied direct on to an oil based Gloss coat same colour which was painted today and yesterday. It'll just need a light de-nib, surface is nice and flat having been spray painted. I've bought enough for 2 coats, butt hoping it might cover in one.

 

 

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Its designed for use straight from the tin but depending on conditions it may need a little thinning.

 

I'd personally put two coats on even if it covers in one. That way there is plenty of paint on so it should have good colour retention and longevity, though painting it onto an identical colour should aid this anyway

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I expect the advice will be no or very little thinning. The same with the paint conditioner. It really comes down to your ability to put the the paint on quickly. At a local boatyard two people apply the paint [they use international toplac]. One rollers,the second lays off. They open the tin and top up to the brim with paint conditioner. It dosent work for me as i am on my own .I have to thin the paint enough to allow me to work quickly. Again people will say white spirit quickens the curing process and paint conditioner slows it down. This is true but i always have to add white spirit regardless of the name on the tin. I recently finished a paint job using international toplac and i still had to thin by approximately 15% in a hot paint tunnel.Its what works for you,if the paint is to thin it generally runs anyway a dead giveaway lol.

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I expect the advice will be no or very little thinning. The same with the paint conditioner. It really comes down to your ability to put the the paint on quickly. At a local boatyard two people apply the paint [they use international toplac]. One rollers,the second lays off. They open the tin and top up to the brim with paint conditioner. It dosent work for me as i am on my own .I have to thin the paint enough to allow me to work quickly. Again people will say white spirit quickens the curing process and paint conditioner slows it down. This is true but i always have to add white spirit regardless of the name on the tin. I recently finished a paint job using international toplac and i still had to thin by approximately 15% in a hot paint tunnel.Its what works for you,if the paint is to thin it generally runs anyway a dead giveaway lol.

 

Hi Talisman

 

That's the plan, My mate Dave is a painter and I was trained as a painter but 30 years ago and I only stuck with it for 3 years so I'm a bit out of practise, however both of us will apply so we should be able to apply and lay off quite quickly, we did the roof together and that went really well avoiding any drying edges. Dave has Purdy brushes too so most helpful although I do have some very good quality brushes, Daves' Purdy brushes are superb. There's already 3 gloss coats on the panel, the first had to be flatted back again due to the flies, I've now added 2 spray coats so panels are nice and flat with very few flies so a near perfect surface for the top coat. Hopefully laugh.gif

 

 

 

 

Its designed for use straight from the tin but depending on conditions it may need a little thinning.

 

I'd personally put two coats on even if it covers in one. That way there is plenty of paint on so it should have good colour retention and longevity, though painting it onto an identical colour should aid this anyway

 

Hi Adam Cheers for that cheers.gif

 

 

 

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I now use X5 promaster synthetic brushes from the decorators warehouse. A 3" is £8.00 and i they are excellent . I have used many brands of brush but these are my favourite. Try adding some paint conditioner,if you have any. You can use Owatrol its good stuff and available in most chandleries.But dont be afraid to use white spirit if it gets hot or the paint isnt flowing well.

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<br />I now use X5 promaster synthetic brushes from the decorators warehouse. A 3" is £8.00 and i they are excellent . I have used many brands of brush but these are my favourite. Try adding some paint conditioner,if you have any. You can use Owatrol its good stuff and available in most chandleries.But dont be afraid to use white spirit if it gets hot or the paint isnt flowing well.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

 

Thanks for the tips although all was finished painted by he time T read this particular one. Forunately Dave's Purdy's did the job ok. The Craftmaster went on well, you do have to be quick with this paint though, I can understand why it states on he tin professional use only. Fortunately with 2 of us on the job there were no drying on any edges, so a nice consistent coat all over, on side one just 2 small flies go through the net, side 2 though no flies at all, what a result. I have to say this Craftmaster paint does dry back really nice, you can't mess around with it though, roll on lay and off a 2 f/t span within a minuet and all will be well. We didn't thin or use Owatrol on the sides, but the cratch and stern areas we did which we think gave a bit more leeway with the paint.

 

At the end of the day all looks good and we're well happy with he result. The worst of the painting is now over, the rest I can handle myself at leisure, happy days, we might be on the water end July after all. Last big job is the hull shot blasting & painting.

 

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Would have been better to shot blast the hull before painting the cabin. Just a thought.

 

Timing, just one of those things unfortunately. I'll mask up the sides with thick polythene from the rubbing strake after draping the sides with blankets, bit of a drag but should suffice.

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Timing, just one of those things unfortunately. I'll mask up the sides with thick polythene from the rubbing strake after draping the sides with blankets, bit of a drag but should suffice.

We use to use rubber matter if there was a risk of it getting hit with grit. It just bounced off.

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One way to avoid flies is to choose your colour carefully ;)

 

I painted lots of bits from the engine room outside and all the cream ones were covered in flies but the dark green untouched. Yellow attracts them the most I think and I have heard they don't like pale blue, hence its traditional use in kitchens (Catrin told me that).

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