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Best Water Tank Paint


Biggles

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Hello

 

I call on the in exhaustible wisom and opinions as to what is the best coating to put in my water tank. It's already done with a potable blacking and I want to put on a couple of extra coats before I set sail in 2 weeks time.

 

The one I have seems fine but I applied it with a roller and now think a thicker coating would be got from brushing.

 

So what do you think? Any brands, types, recommendations etc. please.

 

Also how well your coating has performed.

 

Kevin

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Not sure if you have this on already since its bitumen based.

 

A better product if you can get it in a sensible quantity would be two part epoxy high build paint such as this. If its the stuff I've seen used before, it goes on a lumpy but dries to a smooth white finish. Can be applied by brush or spray.

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Not sure if you have this on already since its bitumen based.

 

A better product if you can get it in a sensible quantity would be two part epoxy high build paint such as this. If its the stuff I've seen used before, it goes on a lumpy but dries to a smooth white finish. Can be applied by brush or spray.

 

Thanks for that - I was looking for a water potable twin-pack epoxy to do my tank.

 

Looking at the data sheet, application by brush looks a bit tricky because you probably can't get the 500 micron film thickness, so you'd have to abrade a cured first coat before applying the second.

 

http://www.prosys.com.tr/pdf/endustriyel/WaterlineP300.pdf

 

Note to the Kevin: You can't paint a twin-pack epoxy paint over bitumen. If you want a thicker coat, your best bet is just to give the tank another coat or two of the same stuff you've already used - bearing in mind the overcoating times between coats.

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I use only Vactan, no mess!

 

Glad to see that we're not alone in just using Vactan. Can't see the point in blacking, except that it's supposed to last longer. Vactanning is relatively straightforward and pretty clean work, and our integral tank is very easy to access. Simples!

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Thanks for that - I was looking for a water potable twin-pack epoxy to do my tank.

 

Looking at the data sheet, application by brush looks a bit tricky because you probably can't get the 500 micron film thickness, so you'd have to abrade a cured first coat before applying the second.

 

http://www.prosys.com.tr/pdf/endustriyel/WaterlineP300.pdf

 

Note to the Kevin: You can't paint a twin-pack epoxy paint over bitumen. If you want a thicker coat, your best bet is just to give the tank another coat or two of the same stuff you've already used - bearing in mind the overcoating times between coats.

 

 

I think I'll put it on with a brush get a higher build. It already has 2 coats on.

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Glad to see that we're not alone in just using Vactan. Can't see the point in blacking, except that it's supposed to last longer. Vactanning is relatively straightforward and pretty clean work, and our integral tank is very easy to access. Simples!

 

 

I did mine after we could not get rid of the bitch smell from the water when it was redone, no matter how many times it was rinsed.

 

Scraped it back to the metal in 2009 and has not been touched since, there a couple of rust patches but no more than when it was blacked. Will redo it this year to keep on top of it, a couple of hours, £17 then fill with water!

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My tank is a bugger to get in and out of. It holds around 1200 litres and is 420mm deep with two deck supports through the middle!! I opted to keep coating mine before we launched until I couldn't face it any more. I got 7 brush coats on most of the surfaces.

I ended up wearing two pairs of overalls, rubber gloves, a shower cap all at the same time and I still ended up with bitument on my skin. The lead light was destroyed as were 7 brushes and all the clothing. Horrible job and I wish the tank could be lined or at least painted in two pack when first built.

 

Only another two years before I lift the inspection hatch for a look :(

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I use only Vactan, no mess!

 

Many folk keep banging on about using Vactan which I'm sure does a great job as a rust converter.

 

Surely though the inside of a steel potable water tank requires some dedicated hygienic coating in contact with the water.

 

Even bitumen based products are no longer approved by the Water Research council (although still allowed under BS3416).

 

I wonder how many are slowly poisoning themselves without knowing it.

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Many folk keep banging on about using Vactan which I'm sure does a great job as a rust converter.

 

Surely though the inside of a steel potable water tank requires some dedicated hygienic coating in contact with the water.

 

Even bitumen based products are no longer approved by the Water Research council (although still allowed under BS3416).

 

I wonder how many are slowly poisoning themselves without knowing it.

 

Vactan is meant to be ok in contact with potable water.

 

The website says: "VACTAN has been tested and certified as fit for use for the use for the carriage of grain and use in potable water systems. It may also be used in sensitive foodstuff areas."

 

http://www.paco-systems.co.uk/vactan.html

Edited by blackrose
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Vactan is meant to be ok in contact with potable water.

 

The website says: "VACTAN has been tested and certified as fit for use for the use for the carriage of grain and use in potable water systems. It may also be used in sensitive foodstuff areas."

 

http://www.paco-systems.co.uk/vactan.html

 

Thanks for link. Its use in potable water systems was not mentioned in the spec sheet I read on it.

 

On your link it doesn't say its safe in direct contact with potable water though & references twice to suitable overcoat.

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Thanks for link. Its use in potable water systems was not mentioned in the spec sheet I read on it.

 

On your link it doesn't say its safe in direct contact with potable water though & references twice to suitable overcoat.

 

I would imagine if it wasn't safe in direct contact with potable water then they couldn't make the claim that it's been tested and certified as fit for use in potable water systems. However, anyone who wants to do this should probably contact Paco Systems and ask them if it can be used without a topcoat for such applications.

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I would imagine if it wasn't safe in direct contact with potable water then they couldn't make the claim that it's been tested and certified as fit for use in potable water systems. However, anyone who wants to do this should probably contact Paco Systems and ask them if it can be used without a topcoat for such applications.

 

We did exactly that. And they confirmed that it was ok to use in direct contact with water. So we did.

.

Edited by Québec
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After reading this forum we decided to give Vactan a go with out the top coat. Good scrape off of the old "rusticles" vac out and clean followed by two coats of the Vactan. Just over a year ago still looks perfect and no water probs and still alive....if you can call this living :blink:

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  • 1 year later...

After reading this forum we decided to give Vactan a go with out the top coat. Good scrape off of the old "rusticles" vac out and clean followed by two coats of the Vactan. Just over a year ago still looks perfect and no water probs and still alive....if you can call this living blink.gif

We did the above 3 years ago, no problems to date. Will check it again next year.

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  • 10 years later...
On 24/10/2013 at 23:17, Doug_ said:

We did the above 3 years ago, no problems to date. Will check it again next year.

Hello Doug

Did you check your water tank?

Do you still have just Vactan on he inside of the water tank?

Cheers 

On 04/03/2012 at 12:03, Lewis 53 said:

After reading this forum we decided to give Vactan a go with out the top coat. Good scrape off of the old "rusticles" vac out and clean followed by two coats of the Vactan. Just over a year ago still looks perfect and no water probs and still alive....if you can call this living :blink:

Hello Lewis 

 

Did you check your water tank?

 

Do you still have just Vactan on he inside of the water tank?

 

Cheers 

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