engine cover vibrations

[Scott :P]

I was wondering if anybody had any tips or advice on how to stop vibrations from the engine coming through the engine covers?

[Ex- Member]

[quote name=Scott ' timestamp='1313335277' post='732986]

I was wondering if anybody had any tips or advice on how to stop vibrations from the engine coming through the engine covers?

 

We have a wood decking floor above the engine, where it rests on the supporting angle irons we adhered Neoprene strip same width as the angle iron 2" It stopped the vibration and the rattling when walked on. I would assume your cover is steel but it should still help or possibly solid rubber strip.

 

 

 

[blackrose]

If you mean the engine boards on a cruiser stern, try sticking some 1cm thick medium density foam (or neoprene strips/rubber strips as Julynian suggests) on the underside of the boards where they rest on the gutters. You'll need a good polyurethane adhesive that won't melt the foam or lose adhesion when it gets soaked. http://www.marinemastics.com/marine-flex/marine-flex-one-tube.html

Edited August 14, 2011 by blackrose

[Ex- Member]

We did actually adhere to the angle iron, the neoprene is self adhesive one side, our angle irons are all freshly painted so the self adhesive strip sticks well. You can see in the picture, on the Right the Iron angle with the Black neoprene stuck to the top. The 2 lugs you see are for other angle iron that reaches to a similar rail just under the rear doors. There are then Hardwood cross rails all that span the centre rails to stop any flexing, anywhere that the boards sit on are covered in Neoprene. You can just see a Redwood rail on the very right that has it's Neoprene strip affixed.

 

 

 

Engine compartment partially covered.

 

[Scott :P]

thanks for the tips guys its for on a trad stern boat but the top cover is loose like on the pictures. I think we will give the neoprene strips a go do you think it could be anything with the engine thats causing them to vibrate ?

[Ex- Member]

[quote name=Scott ' timestamp='1313345324' post='733030]

thanks for the tips guys its for on a trad stern boat but the top cover is loose like on the pictures. I think we will give the neoprene strips a go do you think it could be anything with the engine thats causing them to vibrate ?

 

Sometimes an engine on tick over can be described as lumpy, you can usually up the revs slightly to stop this. The only other thing is to check engine mounts and bearers, a broken mount would certainly cause vibration.

 

ETA

 

Or of course if you have a cylinder misfiring is another.

 

 

 

Edited August 14, 2011 by Julynian

[Scott :P]

I will give the engine mounts a check its there a method to test them ? and i dont think it could be anything inside the engine as it was serviced at the start of the season by calcutt

[Ex- Member]

[quote name=Scott ' timestamp='1313423559' post='733510]

I will give the engine mounts a check its there a method to test them ? and i dont think it could be anything inside the engine as it was serviced at the start of the season by calcutt

 

 

Basically check the mountings when engine is running, you will usually easily spot a faulty one as it will behave differently to the others.

 

Also look for split rubbers loose nuts or fittings.

 

 

Edited August 15, 2011 by Julynian

[Scott :P]

okay i'll give them a check. If they have gone can you recomend anywhere that sells replacement mounts for a bmc engine

[Ex- Member]

[quote name=Scott ' timestamp='1313511472' post='733982]

okay i'll give them a check. If they have gone can you recomend anywhere that sells replacement mounts for a bmc engine

 

I wouldn't know, could be any type mount really although some engines come with manufacturers mounts, some will come with generic mounts, if you can photo them someone will probably recognise them.

 

 

 

[BEngo]

Way off topic, but I would suggest that Julynian keeps a good eye on the 240v cable which appears to go to his immersion heater, particularly near the heater itself. These are supposed to be wired up with heat resistant cable rather than standard arctic blue, which is actually designed to be flexible in cold weather (The name is a clue!). The additional insulation will also cause the cable to get warmer (and deteriorate faster) than would otherwise be the case.

 

N

[Ex- Member]

Way off topic, but I would suggest that Julynian keeps a good eye on the 240v cable which appears to go to his immersion heater, particularly near the heater itself. These are supposed to be wired up with heat resistant cable rather than standard arctic blue, which is actually designed to be flexible in cold weather (The name is a clue!). The additional insulation will also cause the cable to get warmer (and deteriorate faster) than would otherwise be the case.

 

N

 

It's only a temporary set up whilst we're on shore line, I did check weather it gets hot though and it doesn't not even warm. It is the heavier external 4.0 cable I've used though and the element is only 1kw which is only a hundred watts more than my home kettle. Although I say temporary it's 3 years plus temporary thus far

 

Should I use standard house cooker cable then for permanent fitting?

 

 

 

[Machpoint005]

Sometimes an engine on tick over can be described as lumpy, you can usually up the revs slightly to stop this. The only other thing is to check engine mounts and bearers, a broken mount would certainly cause vibration. ETAOr of course if you have a cylinder misfiring is another.

Agreed, but it's far more likely that the engine cover has a resonance that is being excited by the engine operating completely normally. Decouple with neoprene strips, and Roberto is your mother's brother.

[PaulD]

We have a semi-trad and engine noise within the rear deck became tiring after a long day. Outside the boat it was quiet enough.

 

Insulation under the deck made a dramatic improvement but I used proper stuff with the "lead" barrier.

 

Paul

[WotEver]

Should I use standard house cooker cable then for permanent fitting?

You need something like this: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA1dot5TQ3slash50.html

 

Tony

[Ex- Member]

You need something like this: http://www.tlc-direc...TQ3slash50.html

 

Tony

 

Cheers Tony, I'll get some ordered, the Blue's a bit short anyway

 

 

 

[BEngo]

It's only a temporary set up whilst we're on shore line, I did check weather it gets hot though and it doesn't not even warm. It is the heavier external 4.0 cable I've used though and the element is only 1kw which is only a hundred watts more than my home kettle. Although I say temporary it's 3 years plus temporary thus far

 

Should I use standard house cooker cable then for permanent fitting?

 

If by standard house cooker cable you mean the 6 sqmm flat twin and earth stuff , then no. What you want is sold by the sheds either off the reels or in plastic packages as heat resistant cable and is slightly bigger than arctic blue, round, nearly-white, with rubbery feel insulation and usually has 2.5 sqmm conductors- plenty big enough for a 1KW immersion. Failing the sheds Toolstation do it http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p89357 or the 3183 TQ number will mean something to your local electrician.

 

 

I see Wotever has also provided llink to 50m of it.

 

N

[WotEver]

I see Wotever has also provided llink to 50m of it.

Yes, but mine was only 1.5mm. Should be fine in free air.

 

Tony

[Ex- Member]

If by standard house cooker cable you mean the 6 sqmm flat twin and earth stuff , then no. What you want is sold by the sheds either off the reels or in plastic packages as heat resistant cable and is slightly bigger than arctic blue, round, nearly-white, with rubbery feel insulation and usually has 2.5 sqmm conductors- plenty big enough for a 1KW immersion. Failing the sheds Toolstation do it http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p89357 or the 3183 TQ number will mean something to your local electrician.

 

 

I see Wotever has also provided llink to 50m of it.

 

N

 

thanks though Bengo, appreciated anyway

Edited August 17, 2011 by Julynian