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boat lighting wiring


DeanS

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HELLO :)

 

When planning to rewire a boat and put in drop down lighting, is it a good idea to put in 12V lights for continuous cruising, but also install 220V lights to use when moored on hookup.

 

or do most of you only have 12V lighting, and just keep your batteries on charge when on hookup.

 

I know this is a stupid question, but I have learned it's best to ask, as there are always 10answers/opinions :)

 

Remember that 220V lights are BRIGHTER and during the winter on hookup, it would make sense to have brighter lighing??

 

 

:) Let the snowballs fly...

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220v led lighting is expensive, 220 low energy lamps are no brighter than 12v and batteries are always on charge anyway so to keep it simple, stick to 12v lighting.

 

220v lights are also bulkier because they make such a lot of heat

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220v led lighting is expensive, 220 low energy lamps are no brighter than 12v and batteries are always on charge anyway so to keep it simple, stick to 12v lighting.

 

220v lights are also bulkier because they make such a lot of heat

 

 

If 220V lights were for winter only...would they help keep the boat warm?

If expense weren't an issue (homes use 220 anyway), are they brighter to use during the dark, cold, stuck, winter months.

 

I know 12V is simpler...but do they give enough light?

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Whether 12v or 220v keep away from incandescent lights they are inefficient. Halogens are a bit better.

 

If you spend a lot of time on hook up you can use bigger wattage bulbs but you do not really want lights you can ill afford to use when away from the umbilical.

 

Most go for 12v LED types these days which can be had bright or warm and low power consumption for the same or more lumens as given out by ac lighting.

 

So unless your an all electric boat with gennies automatically cutting in leave AC lighting at home.

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Maybe I should ask it this way:

 

Anyone out there who is frustrated that the lighting on their boat (12V) is not adequate.

 

AND

 

 

How many buy normal lamps to use during winter moorings while hooked up through the cold/dark months

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I know 12V is simpler...but do they give enough light?

 

I certainly wouldn't go to all the bother of wiring up a permanent 240v lighting circuit. It's more important where you position the lights if you're worried about whether things will be bright enough. For example, I've got 12v LED lights behind my chairs and they are fine for reading by. Similarly a few 12v LED spot lights shine over the kitchen work surface.

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I certainly wouldn't go to all the bother of wiring up a permanent 240v lighting circuit. It's more important where you position the lights if you're worried about whether things will be bright enough. For example, I've got 12v LED lights behind my chairs and they are fine for reading by. Similarly a few 12v LED spot lights shine over the kitchen work surface.

 

 

am I right in thinking those are the GR16 types? (going on memory)

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Maybe I should ask it this way:

 

Anyone out there who is frustrated that the lighting on their boat (12V) is not adequate.

 

AND

 

 

How many buy normal lamps to use during winter moorings while hooked up through the cold/dark months

:D

Hi mate

 

Unlike many replies on here I think it is a very sensible idea to have the option of both types of lighting, whilst you are refitting the extra time and expense will be minimal and without doubt good old fashioned incandescent bulbs or mains voltage flourescent lighting is superior to any 12 volt stuff. You can have it wired in so it only works when plugged in to shoreline so you will not inadvertantly use more inverter power than you would wish to.

Wish you luck with the fitout. :)

Edited by mrsmelly
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Get back in your cassette :P

 

Dean, your choice but as you can see most people have 12v lighting, I have 24v.

 

The lighting levels are not measured in wattage they are measured in Lumens, difficult to find on 'mains' lamps.

 

ps. a lot of domestic (house) lighting is now 12v.

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Get back in your cassette :P

 

Dean, your choice but as you can see most people have 12v lighting, I have 24v.

 

The lighting levels are not measured in wattage they are measured in Lumens, difficult to find on 'mains' lamps.

 

ps. a lot of domestic (house) lighting is now 12v.

:lol:

Yes and without doubt modern 12volt lighting looks as though its been developed by the Prince of Darkness ( Lucas )

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If your worried about not enough light, then put plenty of 12v lights in but allow seperate switches so you can have say, 6 in the salon area, but in 3 banks of 2 for instance.

 

This was my original plan.

I think I will stick with this, and use normal portable lamps in winter. Thanks for all the comments.

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or do most of you only have 12V lighting, and just keep your batteries on charge when on hookup.

 

I know this is a stupid question, but I have learned it's best to ask, as there are always 10answers/opinions :)

 

Remember that 220V lights are BRIGHTER and during the winter on hookup, it would make sense to have brighter lighing??

 

Keep to 12volt, there's no benefit in going 220v. Brighter lighting isn't about volts, and you don't want brighter lighting, you want the right type of lighting in the right area's. Do a Google on indoor lighting or visit Waterstones!, and learn about lux, lumen's, colour temperature, and the different types of light, because lighting is the key thing in making a home a home.

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My boat is small with a sleeping compartment and a galley/dinette but it has been fitted with two circuits - 12v with permanently fixed light units (which give a horrible quality of light because they are the original mid seventies units by the look of them) and 12v power sockets.

 

The second circuit is a 240v one supplying several ordinary domestic type sockets. I have 3 inexpensive but nice looking small table lamps that I can have where I like. I use them when on shore connection or on my own genny and the quality of light is lovely, warm and homely - unlike the 12v light fittings.

Edited by Bazza2
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This was my original plan.

I think I will stick with this, and use normal portable lamps in winter. Thanks for all the comments.

Why not put loads of downlighs in the ceiling and also reading lamps with 12v Halogen GR16 reflector lamps for when on shore supply to give loads of light and change them to LEDs when you set sail.

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HELLO :)

 

When planning to rewire a boat and put in drop down lighting, is it a good idea to put in 12V lights for continuous cruising, but also install 220V lights to use when moored on hookup.

 

or do most of you only have 12V lighting, and just keep your batteries on charge when on hookup.

 

I know this is a stupid question, but I have learned it's best to ask, as there are always 10answers/opinions :)

 

Remember that 220V lights are BRIGHTER and during the winter on hookup, it would make sense to have brighter lighing??

 

 

:) Let the snowballs fly...

 

It is not true that 240v lighting is 'brighter' than 12v lights. Its all to do with the wattage they put out, I think. Stand to be corrected on this one. On Salix the main lights are all 12v, and the 2 table lights are 12v adapted from 240v B & Q table lamps. You can get 12v bus bulbs over the interweb that have the standard BS2 fittings (uk Light Bulbs from memory). 12v halogen 25 watt bulbs produce a hell of a lot of light. Have changed some of them to 10 watt with not alot of drop in light output. Do like the LED concept, but to me the technology is not quite there yet for the cost and the light output and the quality/colour of the illumination they produce. For the 12v halogens used 240v fittings which are good value; 12v & 240v bulbs fit them. Make sure on your wiring that you confirm to the BSS and consult a qualified marine electrician, and consider voltage drops over distance of cable runs.

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Remember that a 240v 20 watt light will give out exactly the same amount of light as a similar-type 12v 20 watt light, and also exactly the same amount of heat.

 

When running from batteries via an inverter it will also take almost exactly the same amount of power from the batteries.

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I fitted out for 12v halogens but have since gone over to led's. I use a combination of cool and warm bulbs as it makes quite a difference, bedroom and living room in warm and kitchen and bathroom in cool(seems to give more light. I also fitted extra lamps (seperately switched from others) down the centre of the living area with cool bulbs for when we want more light. Seems to work well and feels good, but we also have 240v lamps on desk and bedroom for when on hook up and want that extra light. If i did it again i wouldn't bother putting 240 lamps wired in.

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